So I have a 2013 Maxima (leased in April) and I took the car in for an oil change 2 weeks ago on the 27th of August. Since I've had the car back, I've experienced some weird electrical issues and the car won't start. When I try to start the car, everything electrical to include the headlights (even in the off position) turn on. I've also noticed that while driving, the passenger airbag light goes in and out and the brightness on the dash adjusts. The first two times, I unhooked the battery for a few seconds and was able to start the car. I took it to the dealership (yesterday) just to have them look at it and they said that they couldn't duplicate the issue. Later that day, THE SAME THING HAPPENED! This time, unhooking the battery didn't work and I had to get it towed after 30 minutes on the phone with the service tech trying different things. But two hours later at the dealership, they were able to start it and drive it off the tow truck. I don't know what is going on but there is an issue somewhere. I will point out that I do have aftermarket speakers but they were installed a week after getting the car in April and I did unhook them but it still didn't start. I just think it's weird that all this started happening after my first oil change. Sorry for the long post but any thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

This is my experience with this same issue. The battery in the key fob may be dying, I don't know about the 13 but my 2010 shows a low battery meter on the dash wen the fob is low. Try changing the battery in your fob or using your spare key. Apparently my starting issues were the module in the vehicle couldn't recognize the key fob. I had the same symptoms, headlights on etc. changed the key fob battery and all has been well. Hope this helps

 

Thank you! I did try the spare key and it still didn't start. I did however try to turn over which it wasn't before. I'll see what happens once I get the car back. Thanks again.

 

No problem, hopefully it's a easy fix. Regardless the dealership is liable whether its $6 battery or whatever. Complain about everything, these cara aren't cheap. I had an issue when I bought mine that the dealership was trying to give me the run around so I'd forget so now I bring it in for any little thing

 

Definitely. Especially since the car is only 5 months old. Doesn't that key holder under the trunk button charge the key? I left it in there during a 7 hour road trip and figured that would help. Maybe a bad key all together?

 

Don't quote me on this but the dealer told me the holder is some type of back up in case the battery dies. The key fob has its own battery so that all sounds fishy to me because if its a backup and the fobs dead wouldnt there be some type of chip in the holder for the module to recognize, there fore be easy to steal. you can start the car throw the key out the window and itll stay running til you turn the car off. To me it's just a holder that reminds you to take the key when you leave

 

Gotcha, I'll look into it.

 

No, not a key charger

 

The key/FOB does have a chip.

The point of the holder under the trunk release button is so you can start your car in the event that the battery dies in your FOB.

FYI, the FOB also has a regular key that slides out so you can unlock your doors as well.

 

Ok so even when the battery is dead in fob, slide the key in its cubby and it'll still read the chip in the key? I'm trying to understand this for future reference. The op seems to have more then a battery issue then if the key was in its holder

 

So Nissan calls the keyFOB an Intelligent key. This is the only way to start the car (whether the battery is dead or not). If the battery inside the intellikey is dead, insert the intellikey into the holder and start the car as you usually would. The IntelliKey has a microchip embedded that will allow it to be read just like any (modern) car key with a microchip.

Each (set) of IntelliKeys has a unique number identifier (that the dealer should have given you). This identifier is programmed in your IntelliKey to match the VIN of your car. You can only have four IntelliKeys programmed to your car at any given time. If you reprogram one IntelliKey you must reprogram them all. As far as I know, only a Nissan dealer can do this.

Inside the IntelliKey is a mechanical key that will allow someone access to the front doors, the glove box, and the backseat passage to the trunk. There is a spring loaded release button on the back of the IntelliKey that will allow the mechanical key to slide out. It, alone, will not start your car.

Note - the mechanical key does not have to be inside the IntelliKey to start the car. This is very useful if you have your glovebox locked and you valet your car.

Hopefully this is a little more clear.

 

I gotcha, good info.

 

Just got off the phone with the dealership and they're still saying that they can't duplicate the issue. I'm really at a loss for words right now. They said they're going to try some other theories.

 

Of course that always happens, ask the dealer if you have the 550 amp battery or the 700 amp. If its the 550 amp I'd bet that's the problem and they should change it without question

 

I'll find out

 

Good explanation. That is exactly how my key/fob/starting system has worked for the last five years. I just wish it were a little easier to open the fob when replacing the battery, and a little easier to hold the spring release tab when taking the mechanical key out of the fob. My old fingers do not work as well as they did when I was younger.

The slot under the trunk release lever near the left end of the dash is where my dealer used to 'store' the fob while the car was in for service. After having a few cars stolen, he changed that procedure.

But it is nice to have the option of starting the car with a dead fob battery by use of that slot.

Interestingly, a year ago the battery in each of my fobs began dying after only a few weeks. My service technician ran comprehensive diagnostics and found one of the three internal antennas associated with the intellikey system had failed. He replaced it, and I re-installed the original batteries that came with the fobs when the car was built in Sept 2008, and they are working fine.

 

The answer is that your car is new, the entire electrical system consists of a controller area network in which you need a several thousand dollar diagnostic tool to troubleshoot, modify and/or configure, therefore making you a slave to a dealership to fix the numerous problems that are going to occur during the life of the car.

 

Dealership called and said my finally did the same thing to them yesterday evening. They're saying it's the ignition switch.