New tires installed, alignment done - car pulls to the right
New tires installed, alignment done - car pulls to the right
Hi guys,
Unfortunately, another problem that I encountered over the last week, and the one I am stuck with now...
About 10 days ago I have installed a set of 4 brand new Michelin Pilot Sport A/S-3 all-season tires (the calipers were painted at the same time too). After the installation was done I have noticed that my Maxima started pulling to the right which was not happening on the old OEM tires. So I figured the alignment was necessary which I have done 3 days ago. Sadly for me the alignment did not change anything. I got a printout that the alignment parameters were OK after the procedure, and they have also checked the ball joints, shocks etc. and confirmed that everything's OK and that most likely the new tires were causing the issue.
So I went back to the tire place and they switched the front tires with the rear ones for me, however, the very same issue still persists: the car pulls to the right during the acceleration, breaking and just during the ride, even when I am not pressing on any of the pedals. Both shops are very reputable in my area, with a very good feedback, but both claim the problem is not with the tires or alignment respectively.
It is frustrating that I have paid about a $1000 and currently am having a ride worse than I had using my old tires. I am at the point perhaps to changing the tires to Conti DWS with the same shop, but I have a bad feeling that it won't help.
Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this after the new tires got installed? Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thansk guys.
P.S. My car is lowered on eibachs.
Unfortunately, another problem that I encountered over the last week, and the one I am stuck with now...
About 10 days ago I have installed a set of 4 brand new Michelin Pilot Sport A/S-3 all-season tires (the calipers were painted at the same time too). After the installation was done I have noticed that my Maxima started pulling to the right which was not happening on the old OEM tires. So I figured the alignment was necessary which I have done 3 days ago. Sadly for me the alignment did not change anything. I got a printout that the alignment parameters were OK after the procedure, and they have also checked the ball joints, shocks etc. and confirmed that everything's OK and that most likely the new tires were causing the issue.
So I went back to the tire place and they switched the front tires with the rear ones for me, however, the very same issue still persists: the car pulls to the right during the acceleration, breaking and just during the ride, even when I am not pressing on any of the pedals. Both shops are very reputable in my area, with a very good feedback, but both claim the problem is not with the tires or alignment respectively.
It is frustrating that I have paid about a $1000 and currently am having a ride worse than I had using my old tires. I am at the point perhaps to changing the tires to Conti DWS with the same shop, but I have a bad feeling that it won't help.
Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this after the new tires got installed? Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thansk guys.
P.S. My car is lowered on eibachs.
Sometimes you need a road force balance from the tire shop...a regular mount and balance won't always do the trick.
ALSO, jsut because the printout said it was in alignment, there's a window of what "aligned" is. If it's in the window they'll go 'yup its good' when it could be much better.
ALSO, jsut because the printout said it was in alignment, there's a window of what "aligned" is. If it's in the window they'll go 'yup its good' when it could be much better.
Last edited by Amerikaner83; Sep 30, 2013 at 02:30 PM.
Thanks Amerikaner83. They use the Hunter "Touch" Roadforce machines at the tire shop. The alignment... yeah, I don't know - I am not sure if I should take it to another alignment place (for another $100 or so) for the 2nd opinion, sort of... The one I went to specializes in this procedure. So, while I trust both places the bottom line is the car started having this issue since the installation of the new tires...
Thanks.
Thanks.
Sometimes you need a road force balance from the tire shop...a regular mount and balance won't always do the trick.
ALSO, jsut because the printout said it was in alignment, there's a window of what "aligned" is. If it's in the window they'll go 'yup its good' when it could be much better.
ALSO, jsut because the printout said it was in alignment, there's a window of what "aligned" is. If it's in the window they'll go 'yup its good' when it could be much better.
Switch the front tires left to right. See if the problem changes sides or stays the same.
Then do the same in the rear. You can change them back after the test if they are directional.
If the problem changes, then it is the tires. If the problem stays the same, then it is the alignment. Also, are you always in the same lane doing the test? A car aligned perfectly will usually pull to the right, because of the crown in the road.
Then do the same in the rear. You can change them back after the test if they are directional.
If the problem changes, then it is the tires. If the problem stays the same, then it is the alignment. Also, are you always in the same lane doing the test? A car aligned perfectly will usually pull to the right, because of the crown in the road.
Thank you very much for your input MaximaDrvr. The alignment shop switched front left/right tires after their alignment was done and it didn't help. They claimed there was absolutely no chance their alignment was not accurate. The tire shop switched then front and rear tires, and that did not help either...
Michelin has already agreed to take the tires back, and I made an arrangement with the same shop to install the new Conti DWS (the tires I actually originally wanted to have installed on my car). I do not expect it to eliminate the problem but at least it would for sure cross out the tires as a the source of the issue. I would then probably take it to another alignment shop for the "second opinion". What a difficult and expensive process these relatively basic operations have turned out for me into...
Oh, and I am trying to use both lanes when testing. I know for sure this "pull" issue did not exist for me. It started after the new tires install and before the alignment was done.
Michelin has already agreed to take the tires back, and I made an arrangement with the same shop to install the new Conti DWS (the tires I actually originally wanted to have installed on my car). I do not expect it to eliminate the problem but at least it would for sure cross out the tires as a the source of the issue. I would then probably take it to another alignment shop for the "second opinion". What a difficult and expensive process these relatively basic operations have turned out for me into...

Oh, and I am trying to use both lanes when testing. I know for sure this "pull" issue did not exist for me. It started after the new tires install and before the alignment was done.
Switch the front tires left to right. See if the problem changes sides or stays the same.
Then do the same in the rear. You can change them back after the test if they are directional.
If the problem changes, then it is the tires. If the problem stays the same, then it is the alignment. Also, are you always in the same lane doing the test? A car aligned perfectly will usually pull to the right, because of the crown in the road.
Then do the same in the rear. You can change them back after the test if they are directional.
If the problem changes, then it is the tires. If the problem stays the same, then it is the alignment. Also, are you always in the same lane doing the test? A car aligned perfectly will usually pull to the right, because of the crown in the road.
Last edited by elevit; Sep 30, 2013 at 08:00 PM.
Caliper is sticking causing a pull. Pull apart the caliper on the side it pulls to and grease the slides and be sure it does not bind.
Additionally, if you got any brake fluid on the pads during the process you will have a pull the opposite side the brake fluid leaked on. Once fluid hits the pad they are toast but do get better over time.
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