So a long block replacement does not warrant an extended warranty but the shortblock replacements do... This seems to back up my theory of Nissan pawning off known faulty short blocks (the knock will reoccur) and offering a warranty in hopes the short block will pacify the owners until the warranty runs out. This also coincides with short blocks being on back order immediately followed by the start of long block replacements. Use up all of the faulty short blocks and offer a warranty with them, then switch to (hopefully) fixed/updated long blocks and offer no warranty.

So noble of you Nissan...

 

As a complete dummy when it comes to cars, what is a short block and what is a long block? :P

 

Definition: Short Block vs Long Block

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http://www.hondashowoff.com/forums/s...ad.php?p=87233

You've probably heard the terms "short block" and "long block" used in reference to automotive engines. The terms are sometimes mistakenly used to refer to engine swap packages, with "short block" meaning just the engine, and "long block" meaning a complete motor swap package (engine, transmission, ecu, etc.). Using the terms in this manner is incorrect and should be avoided.

Now that we've dispelled the incorrect usage of the terms, let's move on to the true definitions:

A Short Block can be defined as the engine block only. This would include the block casting, pistons, rods, and crank, etc., minus the head. A short block is basically the bottom end of a motor.

A Long Block can be defined as a complete motor assembly, i.e. the short block plus the head. A long block may also include some of the motor's accessories, such as the intake and exhaust manifolds, throttle body, fuel rail and injectors, distributor, alternator, intake tubing and filter box, etc.

If you purchase a long block to install in your project car, you will also need to secure a compatible transmission and ECU, any of the above-mentioned accessories that are not present, plus various other parts (mounts, wiring harnesses, axles, shift linkages, sensors, etc.) to make the swap work.

If you purchase a short block, you will need everything mentioned above plus a compatible cylinder head to make the motor swap complete

 

Just to be clear that is just a GUESS. I really have nothing to base it on other than the motor has some miles on it.

As far as 2014's being fine, I would only be guessing but I do know 2013's assembled after the TSB had the bearing knock .Also Kawowski had his short block replaced well after the TSB was released and his new motor had the same issue.

Is it fixed for 2014 , only time will tell.

 

Originally Posted by Nopike View Post

The OP, 13Maximasv, seems to feel that if the vehicle makes it to 30K miles without an issue, it may be OK.

I stand corrected.

I'm also hearing scary things about the CVT not lasting and how expensive they are to replace. My 98SE has 15 years and 133K miles without any major issues. I was hoping for the same reliability out the 7th gen.

Maybe I'll go with the G37 like 13Maximasv. The all wheel drive lets you tear around turns and the drivetrain seems to be much less of a concern than with the Maxima.

 

I had a 97 I30T with 180K miles, original plugs. wires ( 25 mpg city on 89 octane) and tranny fluid. I changed the oil every 4K, did the coolant and belts at 70K

In 16 years it never had any issue besides brakes, tires, battery. all expected.

I bought the Maxima without researching possible problems thinking it would be the same rock and I'm sure some are.

As an American worker it hurts me to even think these problems could be cause by the car being built here vs Japan. My mom and dad have a couple of 5th gens that are also great.

 

quality of cars being built now days are so LOW... A continuation of our throw away society?

 

Penny pinching??

 

Why would any company do that!? Don't you know we are in a RECOVERY! The economy is BOOMING!

 

Where I live the economy is booming, construction everywhere , unemployment around 4%

Corporations always try to shave costs so it's more likely inferior parts just as much as the workmanship

 

Doesn't matter, it's all about maximizing profits, especially for companies with shareholders. Customers are just an expensive inconvenience.

 

I should have wrote...

Why would any company do that!? Don't you know we are in a RECOVERY! The economy is BOOMING! (Sarcasm)

 

Customers are not expensive inconveniences. Without customers there would be no companies, with or without shareholders.

 

Both of my 5th gens were much better built than my 7th gen.

 

Those were the last Maximas assembled in Japan

 

Yep! My build quality issues started with my '05



Yes chrome was OK back in '05, you would not see me running this look today.

This was my '01, the best Maxima I had by far!

 

I doubt our 7th gens will have stories like this:

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-achieved.html

 

Ah, sorry. I thought it was sarcasm but I wasn't sure.

 

I am over half way there (226,000) and am looking forward to the 500k mark!

 

Seems like those 2009's are the way too go.

Plenty of people have nothing but good things to say about that year


Good luck hitting 500K

 

No worries.

 

I think I have the bearing problem on my car as well, but I'm not sure. I've heard the knocking sound twice in the past week. What is weird is that sometimes it is there and sometimes it is not. Once I was just inside the car and opened the window and I could hear a clear knocking from the front of the car but I didn't go check. Today, as I was walking away from my car with the engine on, I could hear a clear knocking from about 5 meters away. So I opened the hood and there was definite knock. After I heard the knock, I shut off the engine and went shopping for a while, came back and drove it for about 15minutes and I couldn't hear the sound anymore. Is the knocking sound suppose to be consistent or it could happen randomly?

 

Take it to the dealer you have bearing knock and it's lower so depending on load it will sound different until it wears out all the way around and it doesn't go away . Bring it in now hopefully you will be under warranty .

 

My 2011 has 50K miles and I do not have any knock.

 

I have a 2011 sv with no rod knock either with 20,000 miles on it .

 

I have a 2010. No knock. Hopefully never. Mine works like a dream.

 

I think this bearing issue is the same since 94 when I started working for Nissan, some of these problems never go away, nothing more then weak spots in the design, combined with a ton of variables and add in some luck, who knows why some cars break and others run forever.

If you bought the car new and have the issue that sucks, if you bought it used, then good luck cause ppl beat the **** out of cars

I stopped reading the forums cause you go from enjoying your car to, looking for a problem to pop up

 

Is there a TSB for this dating back prior to 2009 model ?

 

I left the auto tech world and have not looked back.

 

Was there a TSB pre 2009 when you worked at Nissan ?

 

I finally dropped my 2010 of this morning and got Sentra as a loaner... The service manager came out and they did verify that there is a knock and they will proceed with stripping down the motor for closer observation and take it up with NISSAN...

The 25 year Nissan Master Tech is who go the job

 

New bearing or new short/long block ?

 

I'll post as soon as I find out

 

So today as we pulled into our garage I told my wife we were going to listen for the knocking sound. The car was warm, in park and when she opened the passenger door, we both could hear the knock with the hood closed. Opened the hood and the sound was very noticeable on the passenger end of the engine. Totally different from the rhythmic clicking of the lifters and emission devices.
2013 SV purchased in July - just hit 4100 miles.
Tuesday I'll start the battle with Nissan since the TSB only covers up to 2012 models.
Forutnately I've been following this thread very intently and maybe I've learned from your experiences. Unfortunately, I didn't find this thread before we bought the car.
NOT HAPPY - we had our choice of vehicles to purchase and I convinced my wife to get the Maxima.

 

I dropped my car off last week Monday morning, a week went by and I didn't hear anything back so I decided to stop in yesterday... I was told that Wednesday is the earliest that they would be able to start tearing the engine apart.. If the dealer gives you any resistance just ask them for the Consumer Affairs number so they can know that you mean business

 

So my 12 year old POS Dodge is still running like a top and my wife's new Maxima already has engine problems.

Tell me again which company makes the better car.

 

I'm 100 percent sure this is 13Maximasv disguised as another name, keeping this thread alive.

A true troll

 

COMICAL ! So am I disguised as DC8 , Ricknyce or both ?


BTW, Mr DETECTIVE both of those users joined this forum months BEFORE I started this thread or even knew MY CAR had a bearing knock..................I guess I knew I would need some fake logins down the road


I STRONGLY encourage the mods to post the IP address' where all these posts originated from to show SHOOK that he/she s 100% wrong !

 

Sorry Mr Senior Member shook but YOU are 100% WRONG about who I am.

 

This is going in the wrong direction.... Its a real matter, if it wasn't for this thread I would have not known that the noise was abnormal

We should just ignore those who are offended