Replacing Front Wheel Bearing
#1
Replacing Front Wheel Bearing
Hi guys just had a quick question, So I think my wheel bearing is going out when I drive anything over 30mph I can hear a weird noise sounds like I am dragging something and very annoying there is very little play in the wheel, Sound gets worse when I turn left, I was told it was the wheel bearing so today I went out and bought a wheel bearing from auto zone and its the whole bearing and hub all in one, So how do I go about replacing this I am guessing I don't need to press the old one out and in since its all in one. I have a 2010 maxima S 65k miles. Thanks all
#3
Couldn't tell you about any specifications, however you are on the correct path in buying the hub assy, but you should change out both sides. The other side is probably close to failure. There is a site called nissanhelp.com/diy. Look around for the service manual for maintence on the front axel. Wheel bearing change out should be there in detail.
Hope this helps
PS, I don't know how to post links.
Hope this helps
PS, I don't know how to post links.
#4
Cool thanks, Also just another quick question how can I tell which one is bad, If I turn left the noise gets louder turn right and its not so bad. I will replace both when I get time and some extra money I just need to replace this bad one before it gets worse.
#5
Turning left loads the right wheel. Jack the car up so the right wheel is off the ground, grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o clock positions and try to wiggle the wheel. It shouldn't have any play at all. If you can move the wheel then the bearing is bad.
65k is a premature failure. Did you hit something with that wheel? I would check all four wheels but if the rest test good don't bother replacing them.
The old bearing will need to be pressed out and the new bearing pressed in. I would remove the entire knuckle and bring it to a shop to have the bearings swapped out, then reinstall the knuckle...
65k is a premature failure. Did you hit something with that wheel? I would check all four wheels but if the rest test good don't bother replacing them.
The old bearing will need to be pressed out and the new bearing pressed in. I would remove the entire knuckle and bring it to a shop to have the bearings swapped out, then reinstall the knuckle...
#6
I was going to say bring it to the dealer. I had the same problem. My basic warranty expired, so they made a few calls and covered the repair under the drivetrain warranty which is 60k miles. But your at 65k. Anyway good luck.
#7
Thanks guys, I read some around the internet and I found out that I could just remove the tire and take the spindle nut off and pull the hub assembly off and put the new one on. I also got the torque specs 203 ft lbs. I hope this is the case if so I can knock this job out in less then an hour. also only thing I hit was a few pot holes during winter nothing to big tho.
#8
Thanks guys, I read some around the internet and I found out that I could just remove the tire and take the spindle nut off and pull the hub assembly off and put the new one on. I also got the torque specs 203 ft lbs. I hope this is the case if so I can knock this job out in less then an hour. also only thing I hit was a few pot holes during winter nothing to big tho.
I see there are 4 bolts holding the wheel bearing.
Just take out tire, remove axle nut, remove 4 wheel bearing bolts. Take out old wheel bearing, install new one and repeat steps.
Seems easy enough. What size are the 4 bolts?
#9
Thanks guys, I read some around the internet and I found out that I could just remove the tire and take the spindle nut off and pull the hub assembly off and put the new one on. I also got the torque specs 203 ft lbs. I hope this is the case if so I can knock this job out in less then an hour. also only thing I hit was a few pot holes during winter nothing to big tho.
Last edited by LtLeary; 07-10-2015 at 06:56 AM.
#10
Lt you are right. very bad information here for DIYers.
DO NOT torque that down to 203. You'd probably snap or strip it before you got that far anyway. I just looked in the FSM on the 2011 max which is pretty much the same. LtLeary has the correct specs for the bearing and axle nut. Use those.
Last edited by Asav; 07-10-2015 at 03:56 PM.
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