Dealership told me I have a tear in my CV boot.
Eventually I'll need to either replace the boot or the axle.
Does anyone know if there is anything special needed to do this?

I was a mechanic about 10 years ago, so I'm sure I can do it. I just want to know if I need anything before I start. ie vw and their 12 point torx bolts.

 

Replace the whole axle. It's not worth bothering with the boot. I changed a few axles on my 98 Maxima and it does not really look like the design has changed very much over the years. It's a relatively easy job. Use the search function to find instructions.

This should help also.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/

 

I've replaced axles as well as just the boots. The car I replaced the boots on is still going strong tens of thousands of miles later. I always thought that once it was torn & possibly dirt or mud got in there, that it was just a matter of time before it was toast. I went with my buddy's recommendation the last time & just did the boots.

 

If you decide to go with the axle, I recommend getting re-manufactured ones. I tried "new" ones and both had issues right out of the box. Never had an issues with re-man.

 

Raxles used to be a good place to order high quality axles from. I read that they don't carry older Maxima axles any longer, not sure if that is also true for the 7th gen. I would at least give them a call if your planning on replacing the axle.

http://www.raxles.com

 

Correct, depending on the severity of the tear. Get it changed ASAP as the more miles you drive with a compromised boot you increase the chance the joint will fail.

 

Just checking to see if you completed your repair. I dove in and did mine (replaced the passenger side trans-axle) last weekend after another run-in with a large tire carcass left on the interstate took out my inner wheel well, bumper, fog light, and a dent on the passenger side doors.) As I had ready access to the wheel well, I found it pretty straight forward, just a note if you plan on using the Alldatadiy information. With the exception of a 30mm socket to remove the axle nut, you may have everything already

Alldata would have you disconnect the exhaust and makes no mention of removing the lower strut bolts. You do NOT need to disconnect any exhaust pipes!) I had only to remove the caliper mounting bracket (I don't know if I NEEDED to but did so as I did not want to chance damaging the brake or ABS sensor lines), remove the Axle Nut and cotter pin, disconnect the tie rod end and cotter pin (I didn't use a pickle fork but instead used a purpose made removal tool to preclude damaging the rubber boot), remove the two bolts on the lower strut mount and the clip that secures the brake line to the strut), remove the two bolts that secure the mid axle and voila, the unit slides right out (note: Be careful removing this as there is a "seal" where the axle enters the CVT...you don't want to tear that up!)

Replacement was just the opposite, taking care to slide the axle to the CVT as to not damage the seal. I pre-lubed with some NS-2 on the spline and shaft when inserting it back. Then just make sure the metal cap is seated back over the seal. (I re-used mine as the replacement did not come with one)

Time excluding prep, about 1.5 hours. I am sure it would be faster if I hadn't had to query why I could not remove the axle (note it is different than previous gens as you can not drive the axle out of the wheel hub and straight into the transmission....it is only movable from the wheel to center mount.) I found a "you tube" for a later model altima or murano..(sorry can't remember which) that gave me the idea to remove the strut bolts so I could pivot the wheel and remove the axle.

Use new cotter pins and torque back to 175ft lbs on the axle nut and she is road worthy without spitting grease all over the wheel well!

 

Hadn't done the repair yet.
I got under the car and checked out what they told me.
It isn't the axle boot that is torn.
The axle seal is leaking at the trans. It is very very light, so I'm not worrying about it yet.

 

It's funny you mention that as during my last oil change my dealer told me I needed more power steering fluid and that my cv joint was leaking or something like that. They gave me a quote of roughly $450 to repair the cv boot. I think I'll just replace the axle itself. Courtesy nissan has them for $509 I believe.

 

strongly agree!!!

 

I picked up a reman at RockAuto for around $60 plus a $25 core. So far it is smooth, well balanced and as quiet as the original. Longevity is yet to be determined but as I have a pretty light foot, I expect it to last at least to the 400K mark, if not, well, it really doesn't take much to replace it.