BIGIRISHSTL

I put this in detailing but haven't got any responses yet. I tried to google and YouTube it but haven't really found an answer.

I went ahead and took everyone's advice today even though it was about 40 degrees today. I washed with 2 bucket method, used separate mitts for wheels and paint and then followed with nano skin. I used a new bucket of clean soap for lube as most have said is ok. I used it on the windshield and felt it get tacky. I proceeded to do the car and it looks great. After drying with new micro towels, I noticed some weird defects. I don't know if it's marring or what. I'm kinda freaked out I pushed too hard, didn't get the film of the sponge or other such things. So here are my questions
1) take a look at photos and give me some much needed advice. It looks like a carbon fiber effect on parts of the paint. What do I do?
2) I also used it on the side view mirrors and some surrounds and it looks like it scratched it?! What can I do?
3) I'm going to seal it with Meg's ulty wax. I'd it ok to do tomorrow as long as it's garaged tonight? Will the wax clean up the marks I spoke of? Any and all advice welcome. Thanks guys in advance.

In these photos if you look around the light reflection you will see what I'm talking about.

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

I just did this with the autoscrub fine grade sponge. I used it on my car, as well as on my mom's car. Followed with Meguiar's ultimate polish, & ultimate wax. I got very good results & didn't notice anything like you have pictured. My mom's car is a little older & the paint isn't as in good condition as my car, but it came out looking good too. Did you use the fine grade? I made sure to keep dunking the sponge very often.

You can try applying polish to a small area to see what it does.

Dudemaine

iTrader: (1)

looks to me like its marred a little bit; no big deal, should buff right out, no? Hopefully it does for you

kind of funny that I did the same exact thing as 1996 blackmax; washed & dried the car thoroughly, jambs and all, nano'ed it and buffed it with those korean microfiber towels (which, as an aside here with those things -- wow) and then let it cure while covered and took it out the next nice day a few days later to a shady open spot and did the meguiar's m21 synthetic sealant and followed it up with meguiar's m26 hi-tech yellow wax

incredible results, holy smokes

BIGIRISHSTL

Thanks guys. That's what I thought. Have a Porter cable on the way and some more Meg's products. Swirlx and ulty wax. Appreciate the confirmation.

j_dubb

Korean microfiber towels? Source?

Dudemaine

iTrader: (1)

if you want to go through the source directly: http://www.theragcompany.com/14-x-14...-1414-B-EL.htm

or through Amazon prime like I did:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GXRG4L8

credit to deezo and those guys in the maintenance, tech & care section under the detailing thread

Bificus99

Wow those towels are cool, I need to step up my detailing equipment. I used to use the clear coat body scrub from Meguiars. Looks discontinued.
Edit, its now Deep Crystal polish.

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

Where you able to fix this?

BIGIRISHSTL

Not yet. SR20 on the detailing gave me some tips. I went ahead and ordered hundreds of dollars of stuff... Merry Xmas my wife says. Got lake country pads, PC DA, Meg's liq wax, Meg's swirlx, nanoskin DA pad, etc. ad nauseum. So the plan will be to rewash then polish with swirlx and then wax with ultimate. Any thoughts feel free to comment. I figured the money spent will be reaped on my paint 5 and 10 years from now. I'm open to them since I don't have a routine yet for this type of detailing.

BIGIRISHSTL

Oh yeah and some frickin warm weather!!!

andremike

In my opinion 3m products are much better for buffing/ cleaning and then polishing the paint prior to waxing.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Get some photos of the area outdoors in sunlight or at night with an overhead light. Do you see that pattern across the whole car or is it limited to that specific area(s)?

I'm starting with my 2011 maxima and I notice orange peel..bad. There's also some areas of rock chips and defects. But the first piece of advice is from the ammo nyc guy. Walk around the car and look up close for problem areas. Dirty areas, rock chips..etc before the wash. Next during the wash you'll spend more time at those problem areas. Hopefully it's dirt that'll be cleaned away. If not it's a defect that needs repair..keep that in mind for the next step.

For me the next step is the CarPro velvet or denim orange peel pads. Then I'm unsure what DA to pickup since I'm not planning on using it every year. The CarPro pads need a polish as a lube so that's a whole area to research (I've got some ideas) then I'm planning on washing with a cleaner soap and hitting a body panel with the CarPro pads as a tester.

Stupid me forgot to get before photos but all I've done is a wash + clay + griot's paint prep and clay again. The clay lube was nanoshock followed by some Prima Hydro Max as a top coat. The soap is eagle 1 wax as you wash and the water beads nicely. But that orange peel :|

BIGIRISHSTL

Thanks for your process. I am just seeing it in certain spots. I think I will re wash and re clay those spots with lube this time and see how it goes. Hoping to wax it then.

Dudemaine

iTrader: (1)

Hey pal,

I know you just said you bought a bunch of goodies; did you get the nano shock as well? I'd highly recommend it.

Also, props to you for buying the DA to test out on your max as I've never done it and am scared I'd burn through my clear coat so that's why I haven't pulled the trigger on getting one. I'm sure it's as easy as keeping it lubricated with product and not applying too much pressure and working in sections and using the same method while making your passes but I'm just being a big p***y for some reason hahaha

Am interested in this one man, please keep us informed with results and good luck!!!

RR5

iTrader: (6)

You're welcome. Now I remember, I read up on the auto scrub system by nanoskin as an improvement to traditional detailing clay. I also saw a little concern in reviews I looked at over marring. I opted for the griot's garage clay and had no problems using Nanoshock as a spray lube for the clay.

If you look up nanoskin marring, you'll get plenty of reading material on that topic.

The one thread I found had someone use http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-205-polish-8oz.html with a Lake Country pad to remove the marring.

Also: people mention breaking in the nanoskin autoscrub pad on glass before using it on paint.

So I would say if you only have those trouble areas you might have an easy time using Megs 205 by hand. Waxing will only fill in those surface defects so it'll look better temporarily. You have to use a fine grade polish to remove the marring.

-edit:
I also want to add you could use a one step sealant, for example Klasse All in One to remove the marring plus leave behind a paint seal that you can apply wax over.

BIGIRISHSTL

Thanks guys. I'm hoping to try all this stuff out Friday. I did break in nano pad but I got the big one to go on the DA. I will keep you posted. My plan is to wash, nano, polish with swirlx, and then seal with some Meg's ultimate wax. I got a variety of pads and I'm confident I won't need a cutting pad but maybe a heavier polish pad with the swirlx and then a lighter LC with the wax. Pics forthcoming...

RR5

iTrader: (6)

I actually don't think the swirlX will have enough cut to polish out the marring left by the autoscrub. Or it just might take 2-3 passes when a polish such as Megs 205 would work in 1 pass. Word on the detailing forums concerning the autoscrub system for the DA is thats something best left to the professionals who work on 3-4 days a day. Who will polish the car after using autoscrub.

BIGIRISHSTL

Thanks for that info. I was thinking of using Meg's ultimate compound instead. Then a glaze and then a sealant. Don't know if I opened up my own Pandora's box or what!!! I'll stay with the hand nano then?

RR5

iTrader: (6)

A compound would be creating more work unless you have wet sanding marks or more deeper scratches in your clear coat. After compounding you'll have to polish the compound marks out. Here's a somewhat dated guide that might be helpful. http://www.auto-geek.net/charts/wax-cut-chart-master.htm

Word of advice is to start using the least aggressive product and step down if you don't get the desired results.

BIGIRISHSTL

Ok. So you're saying swirlx won't work but the ultimate compound maybe too harsh? Supposedly the UC is good enough to usually skip the polish step and go to a wax or sealant. Have you used any of the products I mentioned? Tell me what you have had most success with as I'm new to detail detailing (pardon the pun)? I can return any of these products as they are unopened if you have a tried and true for maxima paint. I'm planning on doing it Friday so let me know and happy thanksgiving.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Sorry for the late reply. I originally was thinking the Swirl X would not be as effective as a polishing product at removing marring. Then I found a comparison chart from 2011 which has the swirl X as a medium level polish and the ultimate polish is a step BELOW that.

Now the ultimate compound is 4 steps more aggressive than swirl X so unless you have some heavy duty paint correction to do, send the compound back.

Let me back up and say I'm almost in the same boat as you. I'm currently in my research phase of caring for my 2011 Maxima. Too much research and no practical experience is dangerous (or can be). I have not really used Meguiars products except for Plastic X when I tried to fix up a headlight.

http://www.autopiaforums.com/Todd-He...lish-chart.jpg

Here's another great link that goes over some vital information about polishes and compounds. http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-products.html

Take away there is "Start with the least aggressive method" and the polish chart is a great tool to have.

The detail forums I've read when I looked for nanoskin marring had people say using M205 removed the marring. Which is right at the level the swirl X is, now I'd speculate the Swirl X might need two passes where the M205 might knock it out with 1 pass.

M205 is the pro line where typically you'll see rotary buffers being used. High speed rotary means fast paint correction but that requires lots of experience. These days with dual action orbital machines, we (the consumers) can almost reach those pro levels.

BIGIRISHSTL

Well put. I've done too much research at this point and need to go do it! Autogeek is a good one and Mike Phillips is great. I read posts ad nauseum on correction,DA's, etc. I also have watched all the Ammo NYC and those were great. It's time to start and yes least to start. I will probably start with the UP ultimate polish and see how that goes. I can't find a chart that has the newer products on there but I'll keep looking.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Thank you, I was aiming to provide some research as I didn't want to see you come back in a week and say "OMG I used (product) now my car as more swirls/scratch marks!!"

I just started looking at the SMAT article in more detail. Saw the best advice ever from Mike. Painters tape across a panel and you spend time working that one section until you make it look great. Now you know the process and materials to get the whole car looking fantastic.

I'd personally reach for the Swirl X now that I looked over both swirlx and scratchx. The ultimate polish might be a notch or two more aggressive but both would buff out to a nice shine..at least thats the impression I get from researching.

Good luck and post back the after photos. Also happy Thanksgiving!

BIGIRISHSTL

Exactly. So I've got all of them UC, UP and swirlx. Also 6 types of chem guys pads too. I'm going to do one max('14-mine) tomorrow and one ('10 wife's) Sunday. Playing golf Saturday :-) this is all predicated on the fact that my wife and 2 small boys don't go crazy first. I'll be sure to post pics. Plan will be my car UP and polish pad for marring then Ult wax if all goes well. Her car is slate so probably light cut pad and swix then UP and wax. All on Porter DA. Should be interesting!!!

BIGIRISHSTL

And Happy Thanksgiving to you too!

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Thanks! Had to come in and mention I picked up the 6 inch griot's garage DA 2nd hand for $70. Then its gonna be another order for the polishes and so on for my orange peel removal project!

How's your Friday going?

BIGIRISHSTL

Looks like today or tomorrow I will at least get one max started in the process. Depends on oh so many things nowadays, weather, wife's mood, kids playing nice, buddy's wife mood so we can play a little golf!, you know the usual. Anyway, I'll post before and after for sure

BIGIRISHSTL

Was able to nanoskin, Polish and wax both maxs. Did one on Saturday and one yesterday. Look great just in time for some ice this winter!

This is a before and after if you look in the middle of the hood you will see a before and after. Amazing the difference on my '10 slate. It looks 2 shadows darker and beautiful. If you look down the trunk of the tree or the middle of the wiper blade you should see before on the left and after on the right.


Total car after pic of '10


Will send pics of '14 later today after some pics from yesterday.

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

Looks great!

Dudemaine

iTrader: (1)

Looks incredible. Well done!

Only thing that sucks is that I cannot really notice the difference in that first pic of the hood; I'm sure you can see the difference in the original photo that you took, but for some reason when you upload them to photobucket or what have you, the quality doesn't always necessarily come through.

You can totally tell on that 2nd picture, though! Wowzaa's! Better than showroom finish!

How did you feel using the DA? Is it your first time? Easy enough, or? Kinda curious about your feedback on that.

BIGIRISHSTL

DA was good. I didn't nano with it but will get more practice with the nano before strapping that rubber wheel on my DA. It was good for polishing but the wax would've been ok by hand as well. Overall, I'm happy with my purchases but I think you could nano and wax by hand with great results and skip the DA and polish part if your car has been kept up and hand washed well. Thanks for the props. It was some serious work and I sweated my a$$ off as I am 6'2" 280lbs and it was actually 70 degrees on both weekend days.

BIGIRISHSTL

Here are some pics of '14

BIGIRISHSTL

BIGIRISHSTL

BIGIRISHSTL

BIGIRISHSTL

Here are both my babies. I skipped the polish as I tried it on the '14 and it didn't need it or improve it almost at all. Not really swirly like my '10 is. Here are some combo pics

BIGIRISHSTL

BIGIRISHSTL

BIGIRISHSTL

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Whats up! I just got my Autoscrub wash mitt, fine grade. Gave it a quick test even in the cold at 1am on the windshield and drivers side front bumper. I used Meguairs Ultimate Quik Detailer as a lubricant. Can't wait to check things out in daylight.

Paint did feel smooth but geez that scraping sounds it makes...yeesh