7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015) Come in and talk about the 7th generation Maxima

Changed my mind on the sound system...

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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 04:59 PM
  #1  
Bossman150's Avatar
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Changed my mind on the sound system...

So I decided to do more then just add a sub. In addition to the sub (JL w1v3 10" 2 ohm & JL JX250/1 amp) I am going to do a Pioneer AVH4000NEX head unit which is a double din. I don't have the rear camera or navigation, so the only thing I lose is the top half of the ugly orange screen. The head unit has blue tooth calling built in and also has the Apple CarPlay, and tons of other features. For now I bought a Soundstream STL4.500 4 channel amp to run component speakers, which is what I have some questions on.

I think I head read through all the sound system install threads here but still curious as to which speakers I should replace. I am only planning on replacing 4, unless someone has a good reason I should do more. I assume I should for sure do the front door speakers which I am told are 6x9's, then would it be best to do the rear deck speakers which I also believe are 6x9's or do the rear door speakers which I believe can do either 5 1/4 or 6.5 speakers? I am leaning toward JL c2 line for speakers but I am open to suggestions. I am already at about $1600 with the cost of everything so far and I wanted to stay at about 2k total, so it does not give me a lot of room for speakers and having them and the soundstream amp installed. So I know I will be over budget but hopefully I can stay reasonably close.
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 07:50 AM
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So I ended up going with
Kicker 40CS654

for the back doors and Kicker 40CS6934 for the front doors.

Old Mar 20, 2015 | 07:32 PM
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$1600 so far, are u installing this yourself?
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by courtneyjr
$1600 so far, are u installing this yourself?
No, having it done. Here is what I have paid (or will pay tomorrow):

JL JX 250 $120
Remote gain control **** for JL amp $35
JL W1v3 10" $179
Sealed sub box $45
Amp wiring kits, 2, $100 ($50 ea 100% OFC kits)
Soundstream STL4.500 amp $125
Pioneer NEX4000 head unit $650
Steering wheel control module $100
Dash kit $30
Wiring harness $25
Radio adapter $25
Kicker 6x9 3 ways for the front doors $100
Kicker 6.5 2 ways for the back door $75
Stinger 8000 series 4 channel RCA's $25

I know I am paying close to retail on the head unit and sub, but I wanted the warranty on those. For labor I am looking at:

Install 1 channel amp $105
Install 4 channel amp $70 (discounted since they are running both at the same time)
Install head unit $165
Program steering wheel control module $50
Install front and rear door speakers $140

So it looks like I will be a bit over budget. Yes I know I could save a lot of money installing myself, but I spent too much on this car to risk screwing it up. I would rather pay a professional so if they mess it up they will fix it. I have been using this shop for over 20 years and they have both fixed my install errors over the years and stood behind their installs if something went wrong.

Last edited by Bossman150; Mar 20, 2015 at 09:31 PM.
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 09:32 PM
  #5  
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Better safe than sorry, its always better to pay a professional if your not quite sure what your doing. Now that your breaking it down doesn't seem like a bad deal at all
Old Mar 21, 2015 | 11:17 AM
  #6  
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Well my shop ended up really helping me out on prices and cut about $200 out of the total, so I will end up just under budget! Just waiting for the call that they are done. Can't wait!
Old Mar 21, 2015 | 06:44 PM
  #7  
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If i were doing all that i would put a set of full range speakers on the rear deck.

I would also get a 12" sub. Shouldnt be more the abother 50.. It will hit lower and be louder then tge 10". Or get 2 -10s. Then a jx500 amp
Old Mar 21, 2015 | 06:47 PM
  #8  
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Jl does have a new thin subwoofer box coming out.. has amp built in and all
Old Mar 21, 2015 | 08:53 PM
  #9  
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Well they ran short on time today, had one mix up and one issue that wasn't their fault. First they set aside a 4 ohm sub instead of a 2 ohm and they were out of the 2 ohm. So I only have a 4 ohm installed right now, meaning its only getting about 100-120 watts to it because the amp is meant to run as a 2 ohm. It still does pretty good on the bass, but I can't wait to have the 2 ohm in there and really hear what it can do.

Then I spent extra $ on a nice Stinger 4 channel RCA cable, and of course tonight after the amps are all wired up and run, the right front channel on the RCA is making god awful feedback and engine whine. They pull out the head unit and one of the RCA jacks came apart, when they pushed it back together manually the noise is gone. It was already 45 minutes past closing at this point though so they simply don't have time to run a replacement. Even with the front speakers faded off the noise still came through, so I ended up pulling over about 3 blocks from the shop and just disconnecting that channel. It's not fun trying to listen to your new system with the front two speakers off.

They didn't have time to install the door speakers either, so I am going to drop it off on Thursday while I am at work and have them run a new RCA and install the new speakers. I can't complain too much, the installer that did the work was a perfectionist just like I am, so it takes him much longer then some of the other installers but he does a fantastic job. He even ran the USB and AUX cable into the center console where the power plug in is, I believe that is where it would be from the factory if I had the nav package. They usually run them to the glove box but I asked them to run it there and he had no issues with that. He put the remote sub amp gain control under the dash where the stereo is closest to the driver side, it looks good and its very easy to get to.

I am loving the head unit so far, seems easy to control and the touch screen is very responsive. I can't really comment on sound until everything is finished though.

As far as a 10 vs a 12 sub, I usually prefer a 10. It does seem a bit punchy but I will wait until I get the 2 ohm and see how it does then. If I still don't like it I might see if I can sell the sub/amp/box as a package and go with a 12" W3 and a JL JX 500.1. It would be super simple to switch out with everything already wired up. I will wait and see though, I know a 10" JL has been more then enough for me in the past.

I will try and snap some pics in the daylight tomorrow, it was too dark today.

Oh, I did notice on the way home tonight that the Service Engine light is on. It's on solid so the manual says that is either a CVT or Emissions issue, is there anything they would have done with this install that could cause that light to come on?

Last edited by Bossman150; Mar 22, 2015 at 07:19 AM.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 07:59 AM
  #10  
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Here are some pics. Once I set the crossovers and timing as best I could with the missing channel I was very impressed despite the missing channel.

http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/bossman0150/profile/

Last edited by Bossman150; Mar 22, 2015 at 08:04 AM.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 12:23 PM
  #11  
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That's how I have my amps....sub on that side as well.
Old Mar 22, 2015 | 01:24 PM
  #12  
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if u fold down that rear seat the bass sounds ten times better!! plus it lets the amp breathe better
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