Headlight haze
#1
Headlight haze
Just took my 2014 for a few adjustments, when I realized that my right headlight had a bit of haze towards the top. This is a disappointment, when my car has not even reached 3K. My car sleeps in the garage, so it's not like it's outside 24/7. The Service Advisor just told me that the tech was able to buff it out; its this suppose to be happening at only about a year since it came off the assembly line? Smh
#2
Unusual but not impossible. Mine are 6 years old and still crystal clear. Every time I wax the car the headlights get a coating also. Whether or not that even works, I don't know, but I have never had a hazed headlight in 50 plus years of car ownership.
#7
There is a thread on the hazing on the tops eye lid area. I'm at 57k and I just noticed both my head lights have them. 3k(or a few months old) sounds too early. I've started parking it facing away from the sun but then the rear plate emblem produces rust with the sun..... blah
Does anyone know if the haze is only on the lens? Can we bake the lens off and fix it by replacing the lens only instead of the entire head lights?... Would be pretty cheap and easy to find lens from the basic head lights.
Does anyone know if the haze is only on the lens? Can we bake the lens off and fix it by replacing the lens only instead of the entire head lights?... Would be pretty cheap and easy to find lens from the basic head lights.
Last edited by zoemayne; 05-24-2015 at 11:26 PM.
#8
Some misinformation and unnecessary steps posted in this thread to resolve the hazing and may in fact cause more hazing in the end. The hazing is caused from oxidation from the sun, obviously, and what you are seeing is the UV protectant on the plastic failing.
What can we do to remedy this situation? You want to start with the least aggressive solution (least abrasive) then move up in abrasives.
First, you can try some Meguiar's PlastX or another type of compound + polish. A bottle will run you about $8 but you can use it on headlights, taillights, the area behind the door handles, and other small scratches or paint transfer. I recommend using this product first because it contains compounding and polishing properties (2 in 1), and it has multiple uses.
If that doesn't work, then what you need to do is wetsand the area. If the oxidation is severe, you will need to start with 400 grit, then 600/800, 1000, 1500, then finish with 2000. If it is less severe, start with 800 then work onwards from there. After wetsanding, you need to polish the lens so the wetstanding marks are no longer visible. There are kits out there (3M Headlight Restoration) that has sanding discs you can attach to your drill. Because the area we are focusing is on the top, using just the sandpaper will fit the job.
Now, to keep the oxidation from returning. If you have done the following or removed the failed oxidation, you need to protect it otherwise it will come back even quicker. Use a wax or sealant on the headlight liberally. Spray wax will work since spray wax is designed to be used every other wash, so you can't forget. There is a home remedy with a 50/50 mixture of mineral spirits and spar urethane, apply with a paper towel and you're set for a couple of years as tested.
Read here: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...lant-idea.html
Also don't forget to wax your foglights and side mirror turn signals. Those will become hazing and flaky, too.
I do not recommend using this product if your headlights are brand new, or if they are already badly oxidized. This product will not do the job for the following: it is not abrasive enough to remove the oxidation, and because it is a cleaner, it has microabrasives in it that are slowly chewing up the UV protectant. You're not seeing any oxidation now since you're car is a 2014, but 2-3 years down the line you'll see it.
What can we do to remedy this situation? You want to start with the least aggressive solution (least abrasive) then move up in abrasives.
First, you can try some Meguiar's PlastX or another type of compound + polish. A bottle will run you about $8 but you can use it on headlights, taillights, the area behind the door handles, and other small scratches or paint transfer. I recommend using this product first because it contains compounding and polishing properties (2 in 1), and it has multiple uses.
If that doesn't work, then what you need to do is wetsand the area. If the oxidation is severe, you will need to start with 400 grit, then 600/800, 1000, 1500, then finish with 2000. If it is less severe, start with 800 then work onwards from there. After wetsanding, you need to polish the lens so the wetstanding marks are no longer visible. There are kits out there (3M Headlight Restoration) that has sanding discs you can attach to your drill. Because the area we are focusing is on the top, using just the sandpaper will fit the job.
Now, to keep the oxidation from returning. If you have done the following or removed the failed oxidation, you need to protect it otherwise it will come back even quicker. Use a wax or sealant on the headlight liberally. Spray wax will work since spray wax is designed to be used every other wash, so you can't forget. There is a home remedy with a 50/50 mixture of mineral spirits and spar urethane, apply with a paper towel and you're set for a couple of years as tested.
Read here: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...lant-idea.html
Also don't forget to wax your foglights and side mirror turn signals. Those will become hazing and flaky, too.
I do not recommend using this product if your headlights are brand new, or if they are already badly oxidized. This product will not do the job for the following: it is not abrasive enough to remove the oxidation, and because it is a cleaner, it has microabrasives in it that are slowly chewing up the UV protectant. You're not seeing any oxidation now since you're car is a 2014, but 2-3 years down the line you'll see it.
#9
You should get that headlight replaced. Its too new and you have a bumper to bumper warranty still. Also I agree with the guy above I would avoid waxing it or adding protectants since its so new.. The lens already comes with a protect-ant and you would be just rubbing that off.
#10
Thank you all for your input. I did tell the advisor that if and when the oxidation came back, that I would bring the vehicle back for a replacement lens. I will keep a close eye on it and hope it won't come back. Although I doubt that this won't show back up very soon.
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