If it helps anyone.....replaced my struts and rear shocks yesterday. Rear Shocks were very straight forward. 3 bolts all within the wheel well (2 top, 1 bottom)..no surprises.

Front...Yikes! First time I ever replaced struts so it took me probably twice as long (sorry no pics).

Biggest tip I could offer anyone is get 2 sets of strut spring compressors (total of 4 "clamps"). I started with a set from autozone and it just wasn't compressing the stock springs effectively enough. Got another set from a different autozone, and the combination of 4 clamps allowed me to get the spring cinched down enough to release the pressure on the strut.

The Monroe struts from rock auto were perfect matches.

I recommend breaking the top nut on the strut loose before removing the 3 top screws in the engine bay. Did that on the first one and it came loose (NOT removed..just broken loose) without too much pain. Waited until the 2nd strut was off the car before trying to break the nut loose and it wouldn't budge. Ended up putting the strut back on the car with the 3 top screws tight, and was finally able to get enough force with a breaker bar (and pipe extension) to get it turning.

I don't have a pneumatic tool set-up, but did have a dewalt impact drill that came in a set with a regular drill. That was a life-saver! couldn't imagine having done the job without it (if you don't have a pneumatic set-up). It broke several bolts loose that I wouldn't have been able to get with just a breaker bar, and most importantly, I consider it a must-have for cranking down the spring compressor clamps.

Feel free to give me your opinion on this, but I don't think I'll need an alignment after this replacement. Given the exact replacement, I took it out on the highway and the car drove straight as an arrow.

I just got this car back from my ex wife and the struts hadn't been replaced since I purchased it; 96,000 miles and the struts/shocks were totally gone, car rode horribly; I was too nervous to take corners at any level of speed. Car rides like a dream now and handles soooo much better!

Hope this of use to someone!

Joe
San Antonio, TX

 

Thanks for the write-up and tips! I am quite sure I will do this in the future!

 

What package is your Max? S SV or SV Sport?

 

S Model

 

I would still get the alignment checked. Thanks for the tips!

 

nice job. FWIW, anyone attempting stuff like this should always have an impact wrench. It doesn't have to be air or cost a mortgage payment. The kobalt one from lowes is electric and it is a monster. Zips off suspension bolts like nothing for $135. Well worth the money to save some time and aggravation to me.

 

I believe the 7th Gen front end is the same design as my old 4th Gen. I did front end work on that Maxima numerous times. The only alignment setting that is adjustable is the toe. Toe is affected anytime you loosen or remove the struts.

After getting tired of paying to have this simple alignment done a few times I used the string method to adjust the toe myself and that worked great. If I ever have to remove the struts on my 7th Gen I will use the same method.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...alignment.html

Although your alignment is probably not off by much most likely the toe needs to be adjusted.

 

How exactly would toe be affected? You aren't changing the tie rod ends when you pull the strut. Camber could be affected if you have the camber bolts installed.
There are only 6 bolts:
3 holding the top hat to the body
1 holding the sway bar end link
2 holding the shock body to the knuckle

 

What exactly was included with your shocks from RockAuto? Any mounting hardware or mounts/bearings?

 

The Monroe struts came with just the strut and the top bolt (that holds down the spring, bearing, and "top plate".

I reused everything else since I was keeping it stock for now. The bearings were still rotating freely.

Admittedly, on the second strut, when I had to reattach it to the engine bay mount points to break that top nut loose, I ended up tearing some of the rubber on that "top plate" due to the torque from my pry bar which freaked me out a little (18V impact drill just wasn't breaking it loose). After examining it, I rolled the dice a little and reused it as that rubber didn't seem integral to the structural integrity of the assembly (assuming it is just a dampener/cushion).

A couple hundred miles on the job so far, and no clunking, noise, or weird steering/ride issues, so I'm pretty happy...especially considering how horrible the ride was before.

 

Have you ever dealt with this issue on your Maxima? Once you have then you will find out. There are plenty of posts regarding this issue for other generations of Maximas. And plenty of opinions.

 

Can you actually answer the question I asked? How does changing the shock body affect the toe?

I did a spring replacement to Eibachs, and I did coils, all by myself. Both times the alignment changed because I lowered the car.
A direct swap of the body should not change the alignment. The camber could possibly change if camber bolts had been installed.

The top hat bolts have no effect on toe. The bottom bolts have no effect on toe. The sway bar end link has no effect on toe. Changing a shock will not affect ride hight, so toe and camber won't be effected.

 

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...placement.html
Sorry but anytime you remove the front strut is now out of alignment. Just my opinion. Cant hurt to get it checked.

 

It can't hurt to check, but it is not required.
I spent 5 years doing alignments and fixing cars as a mechanic in a shop....
A direct swap of a strut will have very, very little to no affect on an alignment, as long as there aren't camber adjustments available in the shock body bolts.