I was putting on my new pads and rotors last night, all was going well until I got to the rear. The bottom caliper mount bolt is blocked by some sort of torsion arm/bar. I tried every type of wrench, socket, socket extensions etc but just couldn't get to it well enough to get off. To make matters worse, those bolts are the ones that are really torqued on there.

I tried taking the front end of the "bar/torsion arm" off but that didn't help. The only way I see possible is to take the whole thing off.

Please tell me an easier way!

2010 SV

 

https://maxima.org/forums/7th-genera...ar-brakes.html

This give a better description and good luck.

 

Anyone recommend a good aftermarket pad for a 2012 max? What about rotors, is there one just above better than oem? For front

 

Thanks for the info but unfortunately I'm still at a loss for a way to get the bolts out with that bar in the way....

I went with PowerStop ceramic pads and plain rotors all the way around the car off eBay for $211 shipped. Highly rated and so far so good, at least for the fronts.

 

Maybe post a picture or something. I remember when I replaced my rear pads and rotors, it was a PITA to remove the rear calipers.
IIRC, the sliding pin/bolt actually threads into the caliper bolts into actual caliper.
So, to remove the caliper, you can remove the pin/bolt that is not blocked, and then flip caliper on the remaining pin 90 degrees and slide the entire caliper with the second pin in place out of caliper
carrier. I hope this is making sense to you.

Another way would be to just unbolt caliper carrier bracket of the car. Then you can separate the caliper after the fact.

I remember it took me couple of minutes of messing with it to figure it out.
Not the greatest design on Nissan part. You absolutely dont have to touch the rear stabilizer bar.

Good luck,
Max

 

Thanks for the suggestion Max. I was able to get the top and bottom guide pins out but not the bottom caliper mount bolt. The way I got the pin out was by unbolting the top of the stabilizer and moving it (only moved a little) and was able to get the bottom guide pin out that way. It's that damn bottom bolt that I can't get anything on to break loose. Maybe I'll hit harbor freight tonight and try to find a long closed end wrench or ratcheting wrench to get in there better.

Do you happen to remember the size of that bolt, I think it was 21 or 22mm?

 

oh, I think you are talking about caliper carrier bracket bolts now.
No, dont remember the size of it from my head. They can be tough SOBs to break loose. I have impact as well as all types of wrenches.
Dont try open end wrench, you will round the bolt head. Use 6 point socket and breaker bar, or closed box wrench if it fits, or offset wrench.
Ratcheting wrench is pointless to break bolts loose, you will just break it or worse yet, hurt yourself.
Don't be afraid to hit the box wrench with hammer or mallet, just make sure you are going the right way with it, righty - tighty, lefty - loosy, but since the bolt is on the other side, you need to go opposite of above.

 

I did this a month ago.. The ratchet could not fit in so I used a box(circle) end of an open wrench. You have to keep pulling it. I just put clockwise force on it 20+ times and it came loose. I don't remember the size but you have to use the exact size wrench. Can't use a breaker bar cause there is not enough space. I advise against using a hammer on the wrench. Just apply clockwise force over 20 times.

 

Well I finally got them off! The trick was to use an box wrench like you guys suggested. I ended up buying a set on my way home last night. Size is 19mm. I had to use a breaker bar but not in the normal fashion, used it more as a pry bar.

Anyway, thanks for the suggestions.

 

Glad you got it figured out man!!!

 

out of curiosity, why do you make this recommendation?
These are beefy bolts and using hammer on the wrench is not any worse than using impact.
I have learned to use any mechanical advantage I can get, vs trying to use brute strength. Last time I tried to using body strength, I hurt my back.

Glad OP figured out the problem.
My next fun project will be replacing spark plugs. Looks like intake needs to come off for the rear 3 plugs.

 

Thanks fellas!

Good luck w/ those plugs maxud, I know I'll be doing those in the near future as well.

 

There is not enough room to hit a wrench since were talking about the rear brakes you can't turn the rotor as you can with the front. So I couldn't even get a breaker bar in there. Its pretty hard to hit the thin metal wrench with a hammer effectively not much room to swing within the wheel well. It's not really brute strength just sit flat down and pull at it 30/50 times w/ arm. Probably would get hurt trying to pull it on one go.

 

hey for what its worth, you can do this very easily with a 2.5 mini sledge hammer "tapping" on a box wrench of appropriate length to fit in there. They make stubbies to fit in there nicely. Much easier than just pulling on it for dear life. Methodically tapping the wrench with the force of the sledge hammer simulates the impact gun and does work well. hit those things with some PB blaster, come back in 20 minutes, tap one or twice to loosen, tap the opposite way to tighten very slightly, then keep tapping to loosen and that bolt will come out easily.