Jerking or lack of power
04-18-2019, 09:25 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: CA
Posts: 16
2010 Maxima Slugish/Lack of power
Hello,
First post to a forum, I have a 2010 Maxima and it started to show signs of lack of power. At times when accelerating my car will feel slugesh and will jerk before finally accelerating. Its a small jerk and doesnt happen all the time. Anyone else having similiar issues? Ive read that some models have transmission problems and nissan extended the warrenty so Im thinking its that. Dont want to pour money into it if this will be a reacurribg issue.
First post to a forum, I have a 2010 Maxima and it started to show signs of lack of power. At times when accelerating my car will feel slugesh and will jerk before finally accelerating. Its a small jerk and doesnt happen all the time. Anyone else having similiar issues? Ive read that some models have transmission problems and nissan extended the warrenty so Im thinking its that. Dont want to pour money into it if this will be a reacurribg issue.
Last edited by Saiyan34; 04-18-2019 at 09:36 AM. Reason: Put year and model in title
04-18-2019, 12:23 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,380
No one can say spark plugs are good because they only think they are good. Plug has to be pulled from engine and be check for ignition gap, condition, cracks, oil fouling, even more the back 3 plugs are more prone to overheating and being worn out,.. etc.., and at around 90k (and almost 10 years of car age) you are likely in need of a tune-up (mainly new plugs), checking belts, examining ignition coils and such. I'd hookup a good OBD scanner and check for any codes, you might find something, and may run some quality injector cleaner, look for Locas, Chevron techron or Amsoil. Run them along a full gas of 93 octane gas. Your car asks for at least 91 octane gas (2009 states it's required).
Last edited by mahanddeem; 04-18-2019 at 12:26 PM.
04-18-2019, 01:01 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: CA
Posts: 16
Ok thats what I thought. They only looked at the front 3 plugs. Wanted to charge me 300 just to take a look at the back ones. Ill definitley get a tune up because Im sure The plugs need to be changed. Thanks for the info Im going to look for a good OBD scanner too
04-19-2019, 04:38 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,380
Mass air flow sensor, part is after the air filter. It's a delicate part so if you are not familiar with it don't mess with it. It can cause surging, hesitation or lack of power, if completely gone engine would not rev past 2500rpm. And you get a CEL.
04-22-2019, 12:39 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: CA
Posts: 16
So I have two codes P0826(up&down shift sw) & P1722(vehicle speed)..
04-22-2019, 12:52 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,380
Interesting, have you ever had liquid (water, coffee,etc..) spill on the streeting column? Any work done on steering wheel?
Do you have any problem with speedometer? Dash cluster?
What kind if scanner that was?
Clear codes and retest in about a week and see if they come back.
Do you still have the same lack of power?
Try to find a different gas station from what you're used to fill at, use a bottle of techron with a tank of 93 shell gas.
Do you have any problem with speedometer? Dash cluster?
What kind if scanner that was?
Clear codes and retest in about a week and see if they come back.
Do you still have the same lack of power?
Try to find a different gas station from what you're used to fill at, use a bottle of techron with a tank of 93 shell gas.
04-22-2019, 01:16 PM
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: CA
Posts: 16
Interesting, have you ever had liquid (water, coffee,etc..) spill on the streeting column? Any work done on steering wheel?
Do you have any problem with speedometer? Dash cluster?
What kind if scanner that was?
Clear codes and retest in about a week and see if they come back.
Do you still have the same lack of power?
Try to find a different gas station from what you're used to fill at, use a bottle of techron with a tank of 93 shell gas.
Do you have any problem with speedometer? Dash cluster?
What kind if scanner that was?
Clear codes and retest in about a week and see if they come back.
Do you still have the same lack of power?
Try to find a different gas station from what you're used to fill at, use a bottle of techron with a tank of 93 shell gas.
I had coffee spill but toward the driver window could of been some splash back I didnt see. No work done on the steering wheel. Since I bought the car Ive only had regular maintenance done. Ive had no issues till now. Yes lack of power is still there but comes and goes. At times I can feel its a little sluggish when I give it some gas to get up to speed. Speedometer no issues. O'rileys had the scanner so not sure on what type. Scanner's plug was wired.
04-22-2019, 02:41 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,380
1. Check tire pressure, set to 33 to 35 all around, assuming you have good tires.
2. Remove any stuff from trunk, don't drive with old bicycles, household stuff in trunk from 2005, crap, etc.. Keep ONLY stuff you NEED in trunk.
3. Fill tank from shell, use 93 premium. Tomorrow is Tue and in some stations they have a promo on Tuesday when 93 price is same as 91.
4. Pour 1 full bottle of techron complete fuel system cleaner plus, in your gas tank (FULL TANK), check at Walmart or advanced auto parts
5. Disconnect battery negative terminal OVER NIGHT. Wrap the negative terminal in a rag, so you don't short things up. Reconnect in the morning before heading to work.
Do all the above. Drive for few days and report back.
2. Remove any stuff from trunk, don't drive with old bicycles, household stuff in trunk from 2005, crap, etc.. Keep ONLY stuff you NEED in trunk.
3. Fill tank from shell, use 93 premium. Tomorrow is Tue and in some stations they have a promo on Tuesday when 93 price is same as 91.
4. Pour 1 full bottle of techron complete fuel system cleaner plus, in your gas tank (FULL TANK), check at Walmart or advanced auto parts
5. Disconnect battery negative terminal OVER NIGHT. Wrap the negative terminal in a rag, so you don't short things up. Reconnect in the morning before heading to work.
Do all the above. Drive for few days and report back.
Last edited by mahanddeem; 04-22-2019 at 02:46 PM.
05-07-2019, 10:19 AM
#16
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: CA
Posts: 16
1. Check tire pressure, set to 33 to 35 all around, assuming you have good tires.
2. Remove any stuff from trunk, don't drive with old bicycles, household stuff in trunk from 2005, crap, etc.. Keep ONLY stuff you NEED in trunk.
3. Fill tank from shell, use 93 premium. Tomorrow is Tue and in some stations they have a promo on Tuesday when 93 price is same as 91.
4. Pour 1 full bottle of techron complete fuel system cleaner plus, in your gas tank (FULL TANK), check at Walmart or advanced auto parts
5. Disconnect battery negative terminal OVER NIGHT. Wrap the negative terminal in a rag, so you don't short things up. Reconnect in the morning before heading to work.
Do all the above. Drive for few days and report back.
2. Remove any stuff from trunk, don't drive with old bicycles, household stuff in trunk from 2005, crap, etc.. Keep ONLY stuff you NEED in trunk.
3. Fill tank from shell, use 93 premium. Tomorrow is Tue and in some stations they have a promo on Tuesday when 93 price is same as 91.
4. Pour 1 full bottle of techron complete fuel system cleaner plus, in your gas tank (FULL TANK), check at Walmart or advanced auto parts
5. Disconnect battery negative terminal OVER NIGHT. Wrap the negative terminal in a rag, so you don't short things up. Reconnect in the morning before heading to work.
Do all the above. Drive for few days and report back.
05-11-2019, 09:51 AM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: FL
Posts: 21
I have something similar too but not really noticing the jerking, only during idle there might be a short drop of RMP and it kicks back up - similar to when the AC compressor cycles on, (but when the AC is off):
2011 Maxima, 115K. Always had the MAF issue (P0101). Would clean it out and then it would work for a few weeks. Got tired of always cleaning it out, did an "air induction" service at a tune shop (they did a great job). The basically sprayed a cleaner in the intake to clean out carbon deposits, and MAF issue went away for about 3 years. Did a CVT flush at about 65K.
Now:
(1) strong Mildew smell when turning on the AC, replaced the in cabin filter and the bottom half of it was soaked. (I am assuming clogged AC condensate line).
(2) Poor timing - a carwash I go to has "free" blue windshield wiper fluid - after this BOTH of my windshield spraying nozzles are semi-clogged and there is blue "glue-like" film coming out of there. I flushed the reservoir 4 times with water, still no fix.
(3) I am thinking that the glue-like substance probably was clogging the drain lines from the windshield to the underneath the hood and under the engine gutter (which might also be leading to the Mildew smell and wet in-cabin airfiler.
(4) Car is riding fine, but now check engine line turned on with P1722 (Vehicle Speed Signal Circuit - microcuts), P0826 (Up and Down Shift Switch Circuit - microcuts), P0101 (MAF).
(5) I am due for new Spark Plugs as well, but don't think this is the cause to any of the above. Also, I put on new tires a few months back, and had to do an alignment 2 times because they can't get just right (first car puller severely to the right, and now it pulls slightly to the left). Don't want to go there again because I think they will make it worse than now.
Any help with any of these? Not sure what to do. Made an appt to dealer in 7days... but really don't trust them. They will probably charge $300 to clean out the windshield nozzles and the AC compressor line, and then try to replace the transmission and shifter *** for thousands... A good weekend car buddy in the Miami area would be amazing. We moved here not too long ago and don't know any reputable mechanics here. Also I have no tools here, and cannot do any car work where we currently live. I would like to clear the codes, but don't have any OBDII reader, not enough time to order one too before the dealer appt.
Any help, greatly appreciated.
2011 Maxima, 115K. Always had the MAF issue (P0101). Would clean it out and then it would work for a few weeks. Got tired of always cleaning it out, did an "air induction" service at a tune shop (they did a great job). The basically sprayed a cleaner in the intake to clean out carbon deposits, and MAF issue went away for about 3 years. Did a CVT flush at about 65K.
Now:
(1) strong Mildew smell when turning on the AC, replaced the in cabin filter and the bottom half of it was soaked. (I am assuming clogged AC condensate line).
(2) Poor timing - a carwash I go to has "free" blue windshield wiper fluid - after this BOTH of my windshield spraying nozzles are semi-clogged and there is blue "glue-like" film coming out of there. I flushed the reservoir 4 times with water, still no fix.
(3) I am thinking that the glue-like substance probably was clogging the drain lines from the windshield to the underneath the hood and under the engine gutter (which might also be leading to the Mildew smell and wet in-cabin airfiler.
(4) Car is riding fine, but now check engine line turned on with P1722 (Vehicle Speed Signal Circuit - microcuts), P0826 (Up and Down Shift Switch Circuit - microcuts), P0101 (MAF).
(5) I am due for new Spark Plugs as well, but don't think this is the cause to any of the above. Also, I put on new tires a few months back, and had to do an alignment 2 times because they can't get just right (first car puller severely to the right, and now it pulls slightly to the left). Don't want to go there again because I think they will make it worse than now.
Any help with any of these? Not sure what to do. Made an appt to dealer in 7days... but really don't trust them. They will probably charge $300 to clean out the windshield nozzles and the AC compressor line, and then try to replace the transmission and shifter *** for thousands... A good weekend car buddy in the Miami area would be amazing. We moved here not too long ago and don't know any reputable mechanics here. Also I have no tools here, and cannot do any car work where we currently live. I would like to clear the codes, but don't have any OBDII reader, not enough time to order one too before the dealer appt.
Any help, greatly appreciated.
05-11-2019, 03:17 PM
#18
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: FL
Posts: 21
One of my fiends has a relative that is a mechanic. Based on those codes, and without seeing the car, they said: "get rid of the car fast, before the transmission gives out"... Now I'm considering trade in. This car was babied from day one and is in pristine condition, I am not sure if I am ready to give it up.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
05-11-2019, 04:07 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 2,449
One of my fiends has a relative that is a mechanic. Based on those codes, and without seeing the car, they said: "get rid of the car fast, before the transmission gives out"... Now I'm considering trade in. This car was babied from day one and is in pristine condition, I am not sure if I am ready to give it up.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
05-12-2019, 10:10 AM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,648
I have something similar too but not really noticing the jerking, only during idle there might be a short drop of RMP and it kicks back up - similar to when the AC compressor cycles on, (but when the AC is off):
2011 Maxima, 115K. Always had the MAF issue (P0101). Would clean it out and then it would work for a few weeks. Got tired of always cleaning it out, did an "air induction" service at a tune shop (they did a great job). The basically sprayed a cleaner in the intake to clean out carbon deposits, and MAF issue went away for about 3 years. Did a CVT flush at about 65K.
Now:
(1) strong Mildew smell when turning on the AC, replaced the in cabin filter and the bottom half of it was soaked. (I am assuming clogged AC condensate line).
(2) Poor timing - a carwash I go to has "free" blue windshield wiper fluid - after this BOTH of my windshield spraying nozzles are semi-clogged and there is blue "glue-like" film coming out of there. I flushed the reservoir 4 times with water, still no fix.
(3) I am thinking that the glue-like substance probably was clogging the drain lines from the windshield to the underneath the hood and under the engine gutter (which might also be leading to the Mildew smell and wet in-cabin airfiler.
(4) Car is riding fine, but now check engine line turned on with P1722 (Vehicle Speed Signal Circuit - microcuts), P0826 (Up and Down Shift Switch Circuit - microcuts), P0101 (MAF).
(5) I am due for new Spark Plugs as well, but don't think this is the cause to any of the above. Also, I put on new tires a few months back, and had to do an alignment 2 times because they can't get just right (first car puller severely to the right, and now it pulls slightly to the left). Don't want to go there again because I think they will make it worse than now.
Any help with any of these? Not sure what to do. Made an appt to dealer in 7days... but really don't trust them. They will probably charge $300 to clean out the windshield nozzles and the AC compressor line, and then try to replace the transmission and shifter *** for thousands... A good weekend car buddy in the Miami area would be amazing. We moved here not too long ago and don't know any reputable mechanics here. Also I have no tools here, and cannot do any car work where we currently live. I would like to clear the codes, but don't have any OBDII reader, not enough time to order one too before the dealer appt.
Any help, greatly appreciated.
2011 Maxima, 115K. Always had the MAF issue (P0101). Would clean it out and then it would work for a few weeks. Got tired of always cleaning it out, did an "air induction" service at a tune shop (they did a great job). The basically sprayed a cleaner in the intake to clean out carbon deposits, and MAF issue went away for about 3 years. Did a CVT flush at about 65K.
Now:
(1) strong Mildew smell when turning on the AC, replaced the in cabin filter and the bottom half of it was soaked. (I am assuming clogged AC condensate line).
(2) Poor timing - a carwash I go to has "free" blue windshield wiper fluid - after this BOTH of my windshield spraying nozzles are semi-clogged and there is blue "glue-like" film coming out of there. I flushed the reservoir 4 times with water, still no fix.
(3) I am thinking that the glue-like substance probably was clogging the drain lines from the windshield to the underneath the hood and under the engine gutter (which might also be leading to the Mildew smell and wet in-cabin airfiler.
(4) Car is riding fine, but now check engine line turned on with P1722 (Vehicle Speed Signal Circuit - microcuts), P0826 (Up and Down Shift Switch Circuit - microcuts), P0101 (MAF).
(5) I am due for new Spark Plugs as well, but don't think this is the cause to any of the above. Also, I put on new tires a few months back, and had to do an alignment 2 times because they can't get just right (first car puller severely to the right, and now it pulls slightly to the left). Don't want to go there again because I think they will make it worse than now.
Any help with any of these? Not sure what to do. Made an appt to dealer in 7days... but really don't trust them. They will probably charge $300 to clean out the windshield nozzles and the AC compressor line, and then try to replace the transmission and shifter *** for thousands... A good weekend car buddy in the Miami area would be amazing. We moved here not too long ago and don't know any reputable mechanics here. Also I have no tools here, and cannot do any car work where we currently live. I would like to clear the codes, but don't have any OBDII reader, not enough time to order one too before the dealer appt.
Any help, greatly appreciated.
2.If you are going to change plugs, have the dealership do it. There is a warranty for the work they provide.
3.Why would you want to clear all the codes before a dealership diagnostic?
4. If you actually did a flush with the CVT, not good. All that is needed is a drain and fill procedure, 4 1/2 qts. of NS-2 Nissan CVT fluid.
5.If you don't trust your dealership find another one.
05-12-2019, 10:14 AM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,380
1.Always use OEM liquids in this car. 9 years with my 09 and not a single problem using OEM fluids. Sounds like you had a compatability issue with your washer fluid.
2.If you are going to change plugs, have the dealership do it. There is a warranty for the work they provide.
3.Why would you want to clear all the codes before a dealership diagnostic?
4. If you actually did a flush with the CVT, not good. All that is needed is a drain and fill procedure, 4 1/2 qts. of NS-2 Nissan CVT fluid.
5.If you don't trust your dealership find another one.
2.If you are going to change plugs, have the dealership do it. There is a warranty for the work they provide.
3.Why would you want to clear all the codes before a dealership diagnostic?
4. If you actually did a flush with the CVT, not good. All that is needed is a drain and fill procedure, 4 1/2 qts. of NS-2 Nissan CVT fluid.
5.If you don't trust your dealership find another one.
05-20-2019, 03:57 PM
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: FL
Posts: 21
05-20-2019, 03:58 PM
#26
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: FL
Posts: 21
1.Always use OEM liquids in this car. 9 years with my 09 and not a single problem using OEM fluids. Sounds like you had a compatability issue with your washer fluid.
2.If you are going to change plugs, have the dealership do it. There is a warranty for the work they provide.
3.Why would you want to clear all the codes before a dealership diagnostic?
4. If you actually did a flush with the CVT, not good. All that is needed is a drain and fill procedure, 4 1/2 qts. of NS-2 Nissan CVT fluid.
5.If you don't trust your dealership find another one.
2.If you are going to change plugs, have the dealership do it. There is a warranty for the work they provide.
3.Why would you want to clear all the codes before a dealership diagnostic?
4. If you actually did a flush with the CVT, not good. All that is needed is a drain and fill procedure, 4 1/2 qts. of NS-2 Nissan CVT fluid.
5.If you don't trust your dealership find another one.
I don't trust the dealer, and they charge insane prices for this.
Cleared the codes as a recommendation from a mechanic to see if they will come back...
I mis-spoke about the CVT flush, it was a drain and fill procedure - done in a very good tuning shop, but unfortunately out of state.
Most dealerships don't know how to do half the jobs well.
05-21-2019, 08:30 PM
#28
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: 808
Posts: 97
Check your ABS sensor for the P1722 code. It's a hall effect type of sensor that needs a clear window between it and the stator. If there's debris between the two then it may trigger a warning. If you have a multi-meter then back probe the sensor, rotate the wheel, and see if the voltage changes. If it doesn't then replace the sensor. Also check radial and lateral runout to make sure it's not a lose hub or bad bearings causing bad reading, triggering the code.
For the P0826, it's a little more difficult to pin point since it deals with manual mode and shifting. When the vehicle jerks, do you notice your shifter randomly going into Drive/Manual mode, like you're manually up and down shifting? If so then it may be related to your shift selector assembly. It could also be an exposed wire touching ground, making the vehicle randomly shift, it could be the paddle shifters (if equipped) with a sticky switch. Good luck.
For the P0826, it's a little more difficult to pin point since it deals with manual mode and shifting. When the vehicle jerks, do you notice your shifter randomly going into Drive/Manual mode, like you're manually up and down shifting? If so then it may be related to your shift selector assembly. It could also be an exposed wire touching ground, making the vehicle randomly shift, it could be the paddle shifters (if equipped) with a sticky switch. Good luck.
Last edited by VeeQue35DE; 05-21-2019 at 08:33 PM.
05-22-2019, 05:15 PM
#29
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: FL
Posts: 21
Check your ABS sensor for the P1722 code. It's a hall effect type of sensor that needs a clear window between it and the stator. If there's debris between the two then it may trigger a warning. If you have a multi-meter then back probe the sensor, rotate the wheel, and see if the voltage changes. If it doesn't then replace the sensor. Also check radial and lateral runout to make sure it's not a lose hub or bad bearings causing bad reading, triggering the code.
For the P0826, it's a little more difficult to pin point since it deals with manual mode and shifting. When the vehicle jerks, do you notice your shifter randomly going into Drive/Manual mode, like you're manually up and down shifting? If so then it may be related to your shift selector assembly. It could also be an exposed wire touching ground, making the vehicle randomly shift, it could be the paddle shifters (if equipped) with a sticky switch. Good luck.
For the P0826, it's a little more difficult to pin point since it deals with manual mode and shifting. When the vehicle jerks, do you notice your shifter randomly going into Drive/Manual mode, like you're manually up and down shifting? If so then it may be related to your shift selector assembly. It could also be an exposed wire touching ground, making the vehicle randomly shift, it could be the paddle shifters (if equipped) with a sticky switch. Good luck.
For the P0826, I don't use the paddle shifters and don't really use the manual shifter except the occasional (by accident) pressing it 1-2 times a year. The slight jerking is around breaking right before the car comes to a full stop, and during idle.
I am concerned why both the codes came up at the same time, even though these don't seem like similar or related parts. My worry is that if it is due to the CVT transmission that this could be a warning of an upcoming major issue...
05-22-2019, 06:32 PM
#30
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: 808
Posts: 97
Easiest / cheapest thing to do would be to replace the ABS sensor, they may have knocked it while adjusting the toe of your car during alignment. The sensor hovers around the area of the outer tie rod, on the steering knuckle of your car. Another check for a bad wheel bearing is a audible "wooping" while driving around 30-40 MPH and goes away when driving either too slow or over 40 MPH. (Do not confuse wheel bearing noise for a tire cupping problem, they sound similar. Feel around your tire if it's cupping.)
The jerking during deceleration sounds like a torque converter problem with disengaging, but doesn't coincide with the code you pulled. Check your CVT fluids to see if there's any material in the fluid, metal specks, a burnt smell, grainy texture, etc. Hate to say it but a diagnostic from either the dealer, a reputable shop, or a mechanic friend with the CONSULT-III program would be the only way to verify.
Side note regarding alignment, when you have both front wheels in the air, try to push your tires holding them from the 9 and 3 positions. Push with your left into the tire like you're trying to steer it, then with your right. Do this several times and feel for any "free play" if the steering doesn't feel tight then that attributes to your pulling problem and the alignment shop shouldn't have done the alignment in the first place. Your inner or outer tie rods may need to be replaced.
The jerking during deceleration sounds like a torque converter problem with disengaging, but doesn't coincide with the code you pulled. Check your CVT fluids to see if there's any material in the fluid, metal specks, a burnt smell, grainy texture, etc. Hate to say it but a diagnostic from either the dealer, a reputable shop, or a mechanic friend with the CONSULT-III program would be the only way to verify.
Side note regarding alignment, when you have both front wheels in the air, try to push your tires holding them from the 9 and 3 positions. Push with your left into the tire like you're trying to steer it, then with your right. Do this several times and feel for any "free play" if the steering doesn't feel tight then that attributes to your pulling problem and the alignment shop shouldn't have done the alignment in the first place. Your inner or outer tie rods may need to be replaced.
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