Service Engine Soon
Service Engine Soon
What's up guys? On my way home from work my 2010 suddenly stopped accelerating and the service engine soon and traction control lights came on, the car wouldn't go any faster than 20 mph, I plugged in my scanner and got code P2135 ( Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A/B voltage Correlation ) please tell me this has nothing to do with the CVT?
It could very much be just your throttle position sensor / throttle body going bad. Nothing on a car is made to last forever. If not done yet, try disconnecting the battery then throttle body harness, reconnect them then do the throttle and idle air relearn procedures before proceeding. If nothing changes you'll have to back probe the throttle body harness with a DVOM (digital volt-ohm meter) and compare the voltage at the harness to the voltage read by the scan tool.
It could very much be just your throttle position sensor / throttle body going bad. Nothing on a car is made to last forever. If not done yet, try disconnecting the battery then throttle body harness, reconnect them then do the throttle and idle air relearn procedures before proceeding. If nothing changes you'll have to back probe the throttle body harness with a DVOM (digital volt-ohm meter) and compare the voltage at the harness to the voltage read by the scan tool.
I'm wondering if this could also be an alternator going bad? My previous car 2005 Nissan Altima did this problem and it was the alternator going bad, It didn't trigger any codes just wouldn't accelerate or accelerated slow. I then tested the alternator and it was bad, After replacing it all was well.
Fully charged automotive batteries should measure at 12.6 volts or above. When the engine is running, this measurement should be 13.7 to 14.7 volts.
Just went for a ride in it and now it's running perfect, the VDC light and traction control lights are off but the Check Engine soon is still on. I'm confused here and wonder if this was a one off thing or if it will occur again..
I deal with this code monthly. I stop, connect to my ECU with Torque app, jiggle the harness under the hood at the TB, clear the code with Torque, then drive til it happens again. I just haven't (read; lazy) had the time to do anything more about it yet. Happened to me twice in a row last night so I guess I should get on it lol
It will be back. It has nothing to do with anything you mentioned. It is your throttle body. Easy fix. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Inject...ry!34652!US!-1
I deal with this code monthly. I stop, connect to my ECU with Torque app, jiggle the harness under the hood at the TB, clear the code with Torque, then drive til it happens again. I just haven't (read; lazy) had the time to do anything more about it yet. Happened to me twice in a row last night so I guess I should get on it lol
I deal with this code monthly. I stop, connect to my ECU with Torque app, jiggle the harness under the hood at the TB, clear the code with Torque, then drive til it happens again. I just haven't (read; lazy) had the time to do anything more about it yet. Happened to me twice in a row last night so I guess I should get on it lol

My rationale was that the swap motor (2014 with only 40k mi on it) in my old *** 5th gen car had a newer TB than the car had accelerator pedal, so I replaced the oldest part first. It's unfortunate that the TPS is integral with the TB. It would be nice if we could just replace a $3 dollar sensor module instead of the whole shebang.
Also, don't go aftermarket with the TB. The link I sent you IS OEM! The $615 Nissan stealerships want to charge you is criminal. The Hitachi unit is the OEM TB. Pop your hood and see for yourself, "Hitachi" is stamped in plain view right on top.
That's awesome user1 thank you! I appreciate the info very much! I'll skip the accelerator pedal sensor and go for the TB, How's the idle relearn for this you think there will be any issues?
I've cleared this code probably 30 times, replaced my pedal, unplugged the harness multiple times, pulled battery terminals I don't know how many times, replaced ECU's twice, and never once done an idle relearn. Runs like a dream.
Why would it? The computer is smarter than you give it credit for. It learns, it knows where things need to be, how to control the engine. A calculator still does math after you replace it's battery. I unplug mine occasionally and never had an issue. I think too many uninformed, inexperienced youngsters who couldn't tell you what the acronym "FSM" means spread too much fear on auto forums like this.
Why would it? The computer is smarter than you give it credit for. It learns, it knows where things need to be, how to control the engine. A calculator still does math after you replace it's battery. I unplug mine occasionally and never had an issue. I think too many uninformed, inexperienced youngsters who couldn't tell you what the acronym "FSM" means spread too much fear on auto forums like this.
CVTz50 has a function of idle relearn in app.
A gem app if you ask me, ton of features, read ECU and TCM codes, reset codes, read CVT deterioration value, read transmission temp, adjust idle, idle relearn and adjust timing (up to +2 degrees)..... Best $5 spent on Google store.
it's a CONSULT in pocket.
Good luck MaximusN8, I hope the TB fixes your issue.
I'd say you need a new gasket for the TB from the dealer, when you slap on the new TB.
Last edited by mahanddeem; Feb 1, 2020 at 09:00 AM.
BAFX is good.
CVTz50 has a function of idle relearn in app.
A gem app if you ask me, ton of features, read ECU and TCM codes, reset codes, read CVT deterioration value, read transmission temp, adjust idle, idle relearn and adjust timing (up to +2 degrees)..... Best $5 spent on Google store.
it's a CONSUT in pocket.
Good luck MaximusN8, I hope the TB fixes your issue.
I'd say you need a new gasket for the TB from the dealer, when you slap on the new TB.
CVTz50 has a function of idle relearn in app.
A gem app if you ask me, ton of features, read ECU and TCM codes, reset codes, read CVT deterioration value, read transmission temp, adjust idle, idle relearn and adjust timing (up to +2 degrees)..... Best $5 spent on Google store.
it's a CONSUT in pocket.
Good luck MaximusN8, I hope the TB fixes your issue.
I'd say you need a new gasket for the TB from the dealer, when you slap on the new TB.
It does. First time I disabled engine braking was with CVTZ50 and BAFX.
Make sure you get a true BAFX one, I slowly started not trusting everything online.
This
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_I7AnEbA0DK9EG
CVTz50
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cvtz50.cvtz50
OBDLink is also a "fancier" more expensive OBD dongle (faster for live data) and works with CVTz50 and Torque too.
Make sure you get a true BAFX one, I slowly started not trusting everything online.
This
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_I7AnEbA0DK9EG
CVTz50
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cvtz50.cvtz50
OBDLink is also a "fancier" more expensive OBD dongle (faster for live data) and works with CVTz50 and Torque too.
Last edited by mahanddeem; Feb 1, 2020 at 09:05 AM.
Nice, I'm going to order the dongle and purchase both apps. User1 had some good info as well assisting on this. Today when I plugged in my wired OBDII scanner I had the code for the Throttle body and pedal sensor and another code for a solenoid which wasn't there yesterday when the TB code came up, I'm assuming this one triggered this morning. So I removed the engine cover and found a line very brittle coming from the first solenoid on the passenger side, I replaced that line and reset my codes. The car is running fine now but User1 is having the same issue and says it runs fine then goes into limp mode again at some point and triggers the TB code for him. So I'm going to replace the Throttle body.
I'm wondering if this could also be an alternator going bad? My previous car 2005 Nissan Altima did this problem and it was the alternator going bad, It didn't trigger any codes just wouldn't accelerate or accelerated slow. I then tested the alternator and it was bad, After replacing it all was well.
My scan tool is minimal it just shows me the code and possible causes, Yes I've heard that changing the alternator is no easy task. Did you replace yours yourself? I tested my alternator with my portable jumper pack it tells me if the battery is bad and I can test the alternator voltage while the car is running, my voltage is between 13 and 14 and it's optimal so the alternator isn't the problem. I'm leaning towards the TB, I'm going to see how things go this week.
BAFX is good.
CVTz50 has a function of idle relearn in app.
A gem app if you ask me, ton of features, read ECU and TCM codes, reset codes, read CVT deterioration value, read transmission temp, adjust idle, idle relearn and adjust timing (up to +2 degrees)..... Best $5 spent on Google store.
it's a CONSULT in pocket.
Good luck MaximusN8, I hope the TB fixes your issue.
I'd say you need a new gasket for the TB from the dealer, when you slap on the new TB.
CVTz50 has a function of idle relearn in app.
A gem app if you ask me, ton of features, read ECU and TCM codes, reset codes, read CVT deterioration value, read transmission temp, adjust idle, idle relearn and adjust timing (up to +2 degrees)..... Best $5 spent on Google store.
it's a CONSULT in pocket.
Good luck MaximusN8, I hope the TB fixes your issue.
I'd say you need a new gasket for the TB from the dealer, when you slap on the new TB.
Did everything myself in my driveway. Unlike most who do this swap, i retained all 7th gen accessories, rather than modifying the new engine to accept the old stuff. Myself and one other 4th gen swapper are the only ones i know of who've done it this way with the 2nd gen VQ.
Did everything myself in my driveway. Unlike most who do this swap, i retained all 7th gen accessories, rather than modifying the new engine to accept the old stuff. Myself and one other 4th gen swapper are the only ones i know of who've done it this way with the 2nd gen VQ.
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