7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015) Come in and talk about the 7th generation Maxima

High output alternator

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Old Dec 27, 2021 | 05:37 AM
  #41  
Grady09SV's Avatar
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Originally Posted by User1
None of the other ***** will do anything. Only the 50Hz **** will tune sub frequencies. I'll check out your other posts. The nice thing about this EQ vs the line driver you were thinking about is expandability if you decide to amp the mids and highs.
Okay cool. I just didn't want any of those frequencies going to the sub even though I have filters on the amp. Also I'm wanting to see pictures of your car. Sounds like you got something pretty big going on there. What all are you putting in it? In other words what all have you done and are you doing to it? And what year is the Maxima again?
Old Dec 27, 2021 | 05:50 AM
  #42  
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It's an '03. I have lots of threads in the 5th gen section. I hang out in the 7th gen forum because I put a 2014 Maxima motor in it 2 years ago. Done lots of stuff since. Doing a complete front end chassis refresh with some upgrades right now. I just went through my first pair of front tires since I started driving it in '19, so that was the signal to get all this done Lol
Old Dec 27, 2021 | 05:53 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by User1
It's an '03. I have lots of threads in the 5th gen section. I hang out in the 7th gen forum because I put a 2014 Maxima motor in it 2 years ago. Done lots of stuff since. Doing a complete front end chassis refresh with some upgrades right now. I just went through my first pair of front tires since I started driving it in '19, so that was the signal to get all this done Lol
Dude 03 is my favorite year maxima. I love that body style. That's pretty awesome that you have a 2014 motor in it. I bet that thing rides out.
Old Jan 1, 2022 | 04:15 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by User1
Well, you already know about my DC Power Inc alt, but I would have gone with JS if I didn't want the DC's milled frame. JS cost less than DC also. Plenty of them out there in the car audio world.
. Hope you had a safe and fun new years eve. I didn't do ****. I leave for Florida today. So I checked my batteries with my new multimeter. So that digital gauge is spot on. With the car off they were around 12.65. With the car running the front one stays above 14 for a few minutes than sits around 13.1 and 13.5. sometimes sits higher with everything off. The back one concerns me too. It wasn't even at 13 volts with the car running. I'm assuming my isolator is working and the back battery is constantly getting cut off from the alternator due to the front battery being low. Also I tested all my grounds. Spot on. The amp ground is 0.01 ohm and the engine and battery ground to chassis stayed at 0.00. I did it 5 times to be sure. Lol. When I get back in town I'm doing the JS alternator. Nissan said they'd install it. Also put new control arms couple days ago. I'm hoping this 400 mile drive charges my batteries. Oh yeah, I installed the equalizer yesterday. Dude, it's hitting so hard it gave me anxiety. Lol. Sounds so much better. I wasn't even sending half the 6 volts the amp can take back to the amp before. Sorry this was so long.
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Old Jan 1, 2022 | 08:24 AM
  #45  
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Nice job with the EQ! I was hoping to get a report back from you about that. You were right on about using it as a line driver. As for your alternator, it's on it's way out., With the car running, the entire system should be energized to alternator set point voltage, which should be around 14.7V. You're ok for now as long as you're above 13V. You can test the alternator output voltage at the B+ terminal, which you can reach with your multimeter, then ground the meter anywhere. I would check that as well. I'm in Tampa, and it's nice but humid. I worked last night, so you're not the only one who had an uneventful evening. That multimeter is pretty nice. I wonder what kind of current you draw to the rear battery if you ran a 40hz sine wave full tilt? You can clamp now...
Old Jan 2, 2022 | 05:44 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by User1
Nice job with the EQ! I was hoping to get a report back from you about that. You were right on about using it as a line driver. As for your alternator, it's on it's way out., With the car running, the entire system should be energized to alternator set point voltage, which should be around 14.7V. You're ok for now as long as you're above 13V. You can test the alternator output voltage at the B+ terminal, which you can reach with your multimeter, then ground the meter anywhere. I would check that as well. I'm in Tampa, and it's nice but humid. I worked last night, so you're not the only one who had an uneventful evening. That multimeter is pretty nice. I wonder what kind of current you draw to the rear battery if you ran a 40hz sine wave full tilt? You can clamp now...
. You're in Tampa? So am I. That's where I came on vacation. I'm from here. I'm staying in carrolwood, but at my sister's now for the day . Off Hillsborough and Florida. Small world. Yeah I've already committed to the JS alternator when I get back. Can't decide if I should just get the 390 amp. The 320 amp is $400. The 390 amp is $470. Would you just get the bigger one? I'm thinking to go 390. Like always thanks for the input. I will test the alternator. It only has about 700 miles on it. 440 were from this trip alone. It's pretty new. It's a WAI Global alternator. Best one rock auto had. 130 amp. I thought for sure it could handle 1500 watt amp. There's a lot of electrical **** on this car though. That's what I read. That's why the 130 amp. Anyway. Also you don't think having the 1 awg power wire from alternator to battery on top of the factory one is maybe part to blame. It's supposed to go on the alternator first ,then the factory. I know we talked about this already, I'm just surprised my alternator is struggling like this.

Last edited by Grady09SV; Jan 2, 2022 at 05:49 AM.
Old Jan 2, 2022 | 11:16 AM
  #47  
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130 amps isn't a lot, I would get the 390. I don't know exactly what's going on, but with your batteries charged up you should see around 14.5 volts or so. 13 is too low. I would check the voltage at the alternator with the batteries charged. The 1/0 wire connection on the B+ post makes no difference how it's stacked with the factory cable. I forgot your alternator is new. I would send it back if it wasn't putting out 14.7-ish.
Old Jan 18, 2022 | 09:14 PM
  #48  
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so tomorrow I'm going to go look at a 2010 maxima sv and since its a sv i wont be able to upgrade the head unit(which im fine with) so im gonna find a place to put a nice line output converter and I'm also going to get a nice DSP to go along with it so i can have a good clean signal going to all the amps. i have a single evl 12 on 1500 watts and a ioxus supercapacitor and a ton of 2/0 sky high ofc from my last car(it sadly got totaled) i also have some DS18 mids and 2, 4 inch skar audio tweeters. i also have a Kenwood excelon series single din radio that i used in my last build but i wont be able to use it in the new maxima. im definitely looking at upgrading the alternator in the future because I'm also looking at upgrading to 2 skar vxf 12s sometime in the future and definitely getting a bigger amp and some lithium batteries. i currently only have the rp.1500.1d for the sub and i have the rp-1000.4ab for the mids and highs(which i never actually got to set up in my other car because someone crashed into me before i got it installed) but hopefully everything works out in the future so i can have a crazy loud build to bring to slamology this year!

another slight issue with the sv trim is the fact that the rear seats dont fold down... but again i dont really care bass is bass so itll still be loud lol

Last edited by Brighton; Jan 18, 2022 at 09:20 PM.
Old Jan 19, 2022 | 01:52 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Brighton
so tomorrow I'm going to go look at a 2010 maxima sv and since its a sv i wont be able to upgrade the head unit(which im fine with) so im gonna find a place to put a nice line output converter and I'm also going to get a nice DSP to go along with it so i can have a good clean signal going to all the amps. i have a single evl 12 on 1500 watts and a ioxus supercapacitor and a ton of 2/0 sky high ofc from my last car(it sadly got totaled) i also have some DS18 mids and 2, 4 inch skar audio tweeters. i also have a Kenwood excelon series single din radio that i used in my last build but i wont be able to use it in the new maxima. im definitely looking at upgrading the alternator in the future because I'm also looking at upgrading to 2 skar vxf 12s sometime in the future and definitely getting a bigger amp and some lithium batteries. i currently only have the rp.1500.1d for the sub and i have the rp-1000.4ab for the mids and highs(which i never actually got to set up in my other car because someone crashed into me before i got it installed) but hopefully everything works out in the future so i can have a crazy loud build to bring to slamology this year!

another slight issue with the sv trim is the fact that the rear seats dont fold down... but again i dont really care bass is bass so itll still be loud lol
2009 Nissan Maxima SVYou can change the head unit. The factory speaker not so much. The Bose do jam pretty good for factory. My 390 amp alternator was ordered 2 weeks ago. I can't wait. I use the equalizer as a line driver btw. Once my new alternator comes I'm upgrading my amp to the crescendo 3k most likely.







Old Jan 23, 2026 | 01:47 AM
  #50  
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400 amp alternator

Does anyone know the exact serpentine belt I need for a 400 amp JS alternator? I'm currently using this one (Serpentine Belt Dayco 5070668). Do I need an external regulator for the alternator also? I'm using the xs power d4700 and xs power d3100 but the voltage keeps dropping if I turn the volume past 25 on the radio and I have the amps gains turned all the way down. A Pure Audio 3000.1d and a D4S JP284. Talking about it drops as low as 11 volts with the 400 amp alternator.
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