7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015) Come in and talk about the 7th generation Maxima

Wants to quit after idling for a while

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Old Jul 29, 2023 | 08:07 AM
  #1  
JustDontKnow's Avatar
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Wants to quit after idling for a while

I have a 2011 maxima 3.5 v6. When it idles for a while, like sitting in a drive thru line, the following happens. The traction control comes on, the air stops working as well or at all, and it will jerk bad and almost quit (It has a couple of times). I changed the spark plugs. It helped very little.

please help!
Old Jul 30, 2023 | 12:41 PM
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In no particular order i would suggest looking at
1.) Air leaks
2.) MAF
2.) Charging aystem


Last edited by LtLeary; Jul 30, 2023 at 04:04 PM.
Old Jul 30, 2023 | 04:32 PM
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Adding the fuel injector to the mix
about to do that surgery
Old Jul 31, 2023 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by LtLeary
In no particular order i would suggest looking at
1.) Air leaks
2.) MAF
2.) Charging aystem
I removed the maf while the car was running and it continued running. Is that a sign that the sensor is bad?

Also, the air is blowing hot since the last episode. Had freon, compressor seems to be kicking on, and fuse is good. Any idea?
Old Jul 31, 2023 | 04:28 PM
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Well,it isnt great but it doesnt meant it is toast. I would put your scan tool on it and watch the voltages. Clean it well with maf spray and see wbat happens. To me. It is more symptomatic of air leaks than bad maf but getting a meter on it and watching voltage response during different throttle applications will help determine where to go next.
Old Aug 1, 2023 | 10:36 AM
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LtLeary's Avatar
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Originally Posted by JustDontKnow
Also, the air is blowing hot since the last episode. Had freon, compressor seems to be kicking on, and fuse is good. Any idea?
This could be anything from mixing doors to the in cabin temp sensor (I used some keyboard canned air to blow out the area around the sensor without taking the dash apart when this happened to me.) Also check your volatages and ripple. We don't like voltage spikes in these these cars and unfortunately, the alternators tend to start putting out more "trash" voltage as they get older and before the die hard.
Old Aug 1, 2023 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by LtLeary
Well,it isnt great but it doesnt meant it is toast. I would put your scan tool on it and watch the voltages. Clean it well with maf spray and see wbat happens. To me. It is more symptomatic of air leaks than bad maf but getting a meter on it and watching voltage response during different throttle applications will help determine where to go next.
Ok, so how do I check the voltages exactly?
Old Aug 2, 2023 | 04:57 AM
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Sorry, sometimes I forget that folks don't know what I mean!!! The easiest way is with your scan tool. Most that I have used can show MAF response/voltage. If not, a pico scope is a great tool too. You have 4 connections. 12Vdc, Ground, 5vdc and Signal. Now here is the part I don't like...you have to use piercing probes to connect to the wires. Not a big fan but hey, needs must. Your voltage at Idle should be around 1 to 1.5 vdc. At 2500 rpm you should see it go up to around 2.5vdc. The key here is the more air moving across the sensor the more voltage is put out. If all looks good (particularly after cleaning the MAF) perform the idle relearn.
Old Aug 3, 2023 | 01:30 PM
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I'm not so good at diagnostics but FWIW I recently did the idle relearn when I had a slightly rough idle and it helped.
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