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How many people are having issues with paint on these cars getting swirl marks after first wash, chipping or cracking even with the protectant. I am suppose to get a representative to look at mine. Car has had a total of 5 washes 3 at Nissan and to else ware and I have heard from other owners who wash there own car and take it places and all are having this same issue in a car they have either recently bought or have only had for a few months. Others have washed with fresh cloths, 2 different buckets, had professional detailing and still getting the same outcome. Mine is 4 months old and it started showing this after the first couple of washes. I'm trying to get a number so if the Nissan rep tries to tell me its my fault I can show its a cross country issue and not just me.
also I have spoke to a guy who bought a 2016 Nissan Altima and is having the same issue.
I thought I was the only one. I've never had a vehicle that exhibits swirl marks as much as this one.
I can mask them with polish and wax but it only seems to last a couple days, even without washing, and they appear again. I've even noticed if you use your finger or to wipe something off for example, it really affects it. Don't know if it's a really soft clear coat or what, but I have never seen a vehicle paint this bad.
These are the pics the swirls show where sun is hitting but they show all over with the eye. Not sure if this is just me but let me know. I'm going to the dealership to get a pic of a maxima and see if I see the marks on one there.
Just bought my SR maxima. Was very upset about it when they detailed it and tried to deliver it. I'm sure I can help you with this issue. Ever heard of Rail Dust? Happens when your car is transported by train to its location. When you wash your car it will scratch it. It also makes tiny pieces of rust in your paint especially in the platinum white paint. I made the dealership clay bar my brand new car before I took it.
Clay bar is exactly that... A bar of clay that removes all contamination on top of the clear coat. As far as the scratches you are experiencing, it is completely normal for dark colored vehicles. However Nissan does have a very soft clear coat. I have a detail shop and deal with Nissans on a daily basis as well as every other vehicle and all the dark colored cars have the same issue unless you get into the very high end vehicles. I would say the dealers can ruin your paint very quickly. The ones that hand wash will wash a Titan that was just missing and then use the same bucket to wash your new Max. As far as the machines, they are a lose, lose. Felt brushes beat the hell out of your car and touch less use acid based chemicals that strip the wax.
I'm going to say this to all new to Nissan paint....The Max since the 5th gen was introduced for for 2000 model year EPA standards etc have changed. People from the 5th to 8th have complained about chipping on the front end, scratches etc easily...."I wash my car and I see more nicks and scratches on the paint often".....I have had tons of Nissans for years but it's paint quality makes me ponder at times, my 335is paint quality especially on the front end is not battered like most Nissans including my Z is/was after 3.5 years of road abuse comparatively speaking!
Clay bar is exactly that... A bar of clay that removes all contamination on top of the clear coat. As far as the scratches you are experiencing, it is completely normal for dark colored vehicles. However Nissan does have a very soft clear coat. I have a detail shop and deal with Nissans on a daily basis as well as every other vehicle and all the dark colored cars have the same issue unless you get into the very high end vehicles. I would say the dealers can ruin your paint very quickly. The ones that hand wash will wash a Titan that was just missing and then use the same bucket to wash your new Max. As far as the machines, they are a lose, lose. Felt brushes beat the hell out of your car and touch less use acid based chemicals that strip the wax.
Any way of getting rid of the swirls from the clear coat?
If you have a couple of hours to make it perfect get this ...
POORBOY’S WORLD PORTER CABLE 7424XP POLISH & PROTECT KIT AND A BOTTLE OF POORBOYS BLACKHOLE WAX.
Best bang for the buck. www.autogeek.net is a great site to do research on for paint. I have used pretty much everything on that site.
If you want a supreme wax that shows the deepest shine get, Wolgang Estate wax. It's worth the money.
Back to paint issues. I was the single owner of an 08 Altima coupe until 2 mos ago.
I now have a white 16 Maxima and have more paint issues on the front end than my coupe ever had. Clearly there is a gel coat quality issue here because they are not chips but "little shreds" in the actual white paint. I can see they grey undertone below it with even the slightest scratches. I do drive a lot of freeway miles, so I don't think this is rail dust or anything. I don't seem to have the swirling issues but I have a white car and did this to avoid issues more common in dark cars. I wash my car 1-2 times per week but always touchless or by hand.
My question about the paint is does anybody know if Nissan has acknowledged the issues, called for recall or is this just a quality issue I would note in my JD Power survey when I get it????
As for rock chips...Every vehicle has soft clear coat these days since the EPA has changed all of regulations on paint and clear. It is very difficult to understand your issue with seeing it in person or a good picture. Are you sure the hood was not repainted?
I would guess most of what you are seeing in the light scratches is a build up of dirt. You could wash your car and wipe the front end down with paint thinner. You will have to wax it afterwards since the thinner will remove any wax that is on there already.
I haven't noticed any swirl marks but I did recently have a huge chunk of paint fly off while my detail department was washing it at only 700 miles. The dealer tried touching it up but with it being Pearl White, they couldn't get it to match correctly and ended up just replacing the whole bumper. Still love the car but it was definitely concerning to see an issue so early on.
You should also invest in paint protection film. Definitely worth every single penny. I have my whole front clip wrapped with paint pro film on my pearl white SR.
Yep. That is definitely from some getting too close to the bumper with a pressure washer.
That was my first thought exactly, I know it isn't recommended to use a pressure washer but I work at a Nissan dealer and they use one on every car that comes in so I thought I would be fine. We have only seen issues with paint on the Maximas and Muranos oddly enough. Definitely learned my lesson though, she will only be getting hand washes now!
You should also invest in paint protection film. Definitely worth every single penny. I have my whole front clip wrapped with paint pro film on my pearl white SR.
Got it PermaPlated the day they installed the new bumper! Lol
I'm going to say this to all new to Nissan paint....The Max since the 5th gen was introduced for for 2000 model year EPA standards etc have changed. People from the 5th to 8th have complained about chipping on the front end, scratches etc easily...."I wash my car and I see more nicks and scratches on the paint often".....I have had tons of Nissans for years but it's paint quality makes me ponder at times, my 335is paint quality especially on the front end is not battered like most Nissans including my Z is/was after 3.5 years of road abuse comparatively speaking!
This sounds right. I bought both a 98' and 00' Maxima new and the paint on the 98 was fine even after many years, while the 00' was all chipped away of the bottom. https://maxima.org/g/picture/5516500
This sounds right. I bought both a 98' and 00' Maxima new and the paint on the 98 was fine even after many years, while the 00' was all chipped away of the bottom. https://maxima.org/g/picture/5516500
look for a good quality detailer in your area, have them do a ceramic coat detail. They will prep the car by detailing it and removing all the swirl marks and imperfections, then they will apply the ceramic coat. The car will look showroom new and you wont have to wax it for up to 5 years. It's costly upfront but worth it in the long run. My white SR has it for 8 months now and I don't have any swirl marks or scratches. I give it a regular wash and it shines like it has been just polished.
I concur
First thing I did with the car was to put opti coat on my car. And now I can wash me car with no rinse car was in my garage and it really does look show room new
Opti- coat will not last 5 years FYI. It does have a warranty for 5 years however they have a less than 1% claim on the warranty since people usually forget or don't care after the "newness" of the new car wears off. There is nothing better than waxing your car three times a year. More if you live where the sun shines all year round or if they use salt on the roads in winter.
Opti- coat will not last 5 years FYI. It does have a warranty for 5 years however they have a less than 1% claim on the warranty since people usually forget or don't care after the "newness" of the new car wears off. There is nothing better than waxing your car three times a year. More if you live where the sun shines all year round or if they use salt on the roads in winter.
I'll refer you back to the "up to" part of my post. And just because people "forget" or "don't care" doesn't negate the warranty. Waxing your car 3,4,5 times a year can still produce swirl marks and other imperfections if not done properly, especially with the thin/soft clear coats given to these cars.
Not familiar with perma plate. That sounds like more of a paint sealant. Is that a film?
They make a sealant and a film, plus a few interior protection products, leather guard, fiber guard, etc. Not cheap but definitely worth it in the long run in my opinion.
Wax two or three times a year? Hell, once or twice a month sounds more like it. I've always been a bit **** about my cars and a good wash and wax just seems to be the right thing to do. I honestly believe my car rides better after pampering her a bit.
Hell, it gets me out of the house.
Yeah, the odd weeks are for the little misses car.
Wax two or three times a year? Hell, once or twice a month sounds more like it. I've always been a bit **** about my cars and a good wash and wax just seems to be the right thing to do. I honestly believe my car rides better after pampering her a bit.
Hell, it gets me out of the house.
Yeah, the odd weeks are for the little misses car.
That is how I do it, had a car wash membership for 2 months cancelled it. had too many issues with paint. I just hand wash it and use some pinnacle wax easy on off no swirl marks. Every 2 months add some Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze and Some more wax. Have the Bordeaux Black and it's terrible with bird poop, have a few stains haven't been able to remove. I also have noticed a couple of chips on hood and doors. The hood chip was caused by lawn mower guy at work. there are some good videos online on how to wax car, don't get me wrong I do agree this paint does require extra care. I've owned dark colored cars before without these issues so quickly.
I had the exact same issue with my 2016 Maxima! I ended up getting an attorney and having Nissan buy the car back & return all the money I paid. They also paid my attorney, I got tired of going back and forth with them, before I got the attorney involved they wanted to paint my new car and pay me to leave them alone, then the next option they have me was to replace my car with another New Maxima.
I've had my '16 Maxima now for a year and I don't have paint issues. My color is Bronze. I asked the dealership to simply wash and vac before delivery and do nothing else to it.
I am 53 years old and have worked in the automotive industry for 30 years before becoming an independent agent working for myself. I began working in make-ready departments and worked my way through parts, at which point I landed in the sales department selling cars for a while. I left car sales and started a career in automotive paint protection and ancillary's working for a manufacture of automotive paint sealants, interior sealants and also was a warranty administrator for 20 years. Before any of this, I was a detailer. I learned from the ground up working in paint & body shops, and then running my own detail company for about three years. I tell you all of that to say this...
I have been around since the days of enamel lacquer finishes with no clear coats. The days when Toyota never clear coated their blacks and whites. You could bring up color on your buffing pad when you buffed out many of these manufacturer's cars. Back in the day manufacturers of paint incorporated lead into their formulas and lead was what made paint durable and chip resistant. You could give your car a kerosene bath and not damage the paint.
Back in 1984, the EPA mandated all lead had to be removed from all types of paint, including automotive paints, and new formulations were developed. This reformulation began the era of water born paints. The newer formulations allowed the spectrum of color to open into a broader scope and variation of color pallet, but now the paints are softer and less resistant to environmental issues. This is why the dealer tries to hammer you to purchase sealant packages that are applied unprofessionally and way over priced. It's not that the product they sell underperforms, rather the lack of attention to the application and the time given to do the job is what leaves the horrible impression.
Most every car today is a standard basecoat/clearcoat spray equaling about 4 to 5 mils thickness combined (not much). Custom jobs (show cars) will take multiple layers of base and clear with color sanding between each spray to eliminate orange peel and give that mirror finish. EPA mandated just a few years ago that any manufacturer of fabric sealants had to bring their VOC emissions down to 1%, or less, or they wouldn't be compliant in that state. Of course, all EPA regs begin in California and work their way east across the US. I can tell you that most manufactures of fabric sealants before this mandate in Cali. were at, or around, 60% VOC emissions. The only way you can go from 60% down to 1% VOCs is reformulate to a waterbased platform. Great for the environment, you and I, but doesn't really work well to repel spills and dirt. The way companies get around the problem of repelling the spill is incorporate a better stain release surfactant, so the spill penetrates but the stain isn't as permanent because it releases easier from the fibers and leathers.
These cars look the way they do because of the handlers, beginning with the auto haulers, and then continued abuse from the dealerships and the way they pack, stack and move inventory around until you buy it. Inexperienced porters and make-ready personnel use the wrong tools to wash, wipe and prep cars getting them ready for the lot. Not all handlers are bad, but many are. I've worked with many back in my day. Young folks that could care less about their job because it's an entry level job in the dealership and the bottom of the pay scale.
I've never had a clearcoat delaminate on me, but there have been bad batches of paint from the factory on occasions throughout the years cause some pretty bad issues. Some of you older peeps out there have seen that issue with clear looking like milky and faded flaking grunge peeling off the tops of vehicles. That's clearcoat delamination and that is caused by the manufacturer producing a bad batch of paint that typically left a hardening agent out of the mix, or that agent was reduced greatly by some malfunction in the equipment. Your paint warranty is typically 1 year/12k workmanship defect or factory flaw. It is an implied warranty and is not typically written anywhere in your written warranties you leave the dealer with. No dealer wants to warrant a paint job beyond 1year/12k because they cannot control environmental issues, and after all, that is what will destroy your paint before anything else. This is one of the many costs of ownership.
I get my car to the house after purchase and the first thing I do the next day is wash it, clay it, run a micrometer over the paint so I know how thick/thin the paint is, tape of all my cracks and moldings and begin my paint correction and sealing.
I first use a synthetic paint correction polish with my Rupes buffer to get all the swirls, scratches and imperfections out of the clearcoat. if there is an imperfection that I cannot get out with the buffer, I will color sand that area. After correction polishing, I will use a soft polish to remove all of the marring I put in with the first step. I never touch the paint with a wool pad. I use only micro fiber compound pads and foam pads. I never use sand paper grittier than 1200. I use 1200 and 1500 to sand with. After that, I will use an acrylic paint sealant to seal the clearcoat. I use acrylics for this step because acrylics cure out very hard and they do not change the composition of the clearcoat by embedding too deep within the clear. Some chemicals migrate to deep into the clear and they can change the way clear looks down the road i.e, dulling, cloudiness and an overall muted tone. Acrylics are very good to seal clear with because they bond well to the clear and stay on the surface. After I've allowed the acrylic to cure for 24 hours, I come back with a specific carnauba wax I like to use, which has a high percentage of pure carnauba.
There are many great products to use out there that can keep your vehicle paint looking fantastic. Everyone has a preference and everyone will tell you their choice of product works the best (whatever). The key is finding products that are easy to use , and before taking on a major paint correction and/or paint restoration job, please learn the proper way to achieve your results. I can tell you from trial and error, there is a wrong way and there is a right way to things. There is tons of info on YouTube and the interweb (LOL!) that you can glean great tips and skills from. I would encourage you to do this, because the end result can be extremely rewarding, or it can be devastatingly depressing. Either way, you're guaranteed to learn something.
I personally like to use Adams Polishes. However, there are other equal, or better, products to use. Keep in mind, "better" and "the best" are relative terms that point to preference. The mark of a good detailer is getting great results from anything that he/she uses. By the way, the swirls and spider webbing in that paint job in your pics above can be corrected easily. It can look beautiful if corrected properly. The way your paint holds up will vary depending on your geographical region. If you're driving in an environment full of snow and salted roadways, you're going to need to adjust your "hands-on" time to accommodate that climate. Is the car sitting outside and not garaged? That will also determine the wear on your paint. Lots of mitigating circumstances that result in how you'll need to handle your car. I live in south Texas, so I get a lot of pollen, dust and extreme heat. Lots of freaking black birds also. Birds are paint killers. Keep a good sealant on the paint followed by a good carnauba and you can keep those bird droppings and water spots from etching.
I'm sorry this is so long, but if I can offer any wisdom into the craft and art of detailing and paint correction, then that is what I'm trying to do now. My cars stay in perfect condition, relatively speaking, because I'm extremely **** and I detail my cars the way I've described above twice a year. I do a summer detail and a winter detail. I thoroughly enjoy putting my hands on paint and making chicken salad out of chicken ****.
I am here to find out how many 2016 Nissan Maxima owners are having issues with the paint falling off the car as illustrated on the photographs attached. I am an owner of a 2016 Nissan Maxima Platinum, and when i contacted Nissan Corporate Consumer office they pretty much told me to go fix it myself.
My car is 4 years old, i have been a Nissan owner my entire life and i have never seen something like this before. I will very much appreciate anyone that can provide some guidance as to what other options i have at this point. I am thinking to either file a complaint with the consumer affairs agency in my state (NJ) or better yet if i can get more people that are facing the same issues, we can get together to file a class action lawsuit against Nissan.
it's obvious that this is a factory defect and from the looks of it, it appears as if they had a primer issue because the paint is completing coming off the metal piece. Please reference Nissan's response below, as well as the pictures illustrating the issues in my car.
Best Regards,
Jhon Reina
07/20/2020
Case # 40717428
Thank you for allowing us an opportunity to review your concerns regarding your 2016 NISSAN MAXIMA.
As a company interested in winning lifetime customers, Nissan regrets any inconvenience you may have experienced, and we appreciate you taking the time to contact us regarding the situation.
Nissan carefully considered your request and reviewed all available facts pertaining to your specific situation. After this thorough review, Nissan determined that we are unable to offer financial assistance with the repair of the peeling paint due to the vehicle being outside of your Basic Warranty.
We realize this may not be the answer you were looking for, however we hope that you understand our position. If you have any further comments or concerns, please feel free to contact us directly at 1-615-725-7445 and reference your Case #40717428.
Thank you again for taking the time to contact us.
Sincerely,
Nissan
________________________
Tinesha
Consumer Affairs Representative
Nissan North America, Inc.
How many people are having issues with paint on these cars getting swirl marks after first wash, chipping or cracking even with the protectant. I am suppose to get a representative to look at mine. Car has had a total of 5 washes 3 at Nissan and to else ware and I have heard from other owners who wash there own car and take it places and all are having this same issue in a car they have either recently bought or have only had for a few months. Others have washed with fresh cloths, 2 different buckets, had professional detailing and still getting the same outcome. Mine is 4 months old and it started showing this after the first couple of washes. I'm trying to get a number so if the Nissan rep tries to tell me its my fault I can show its a cross country issue and not just me.
also I have spoke to a guy who bought a 2016 Nissan Altima and is having the same issue.
I realize that this message is too late for you but I always ceramic coat my vehicles when new and never have swirl issues
I am here to find out how many 2016 Nissan Maxima owners are having issues with the paint falling off the car as illustrated on the photographs attached. I am an owner of a 2016 Nissan Maxima Platinum, and when i contacted Nissan Corporate Consumer office they pretty much told me to go fix it myself.
My car is 4 years old, i have been a Nissan owner my entire life and i have never seen something like this before. I will very much appreciate anyone that can provide some guidance as to what other options i have at this point. I am thinking to either file a complaint with the consumer affairs agency in my state (NJ) or better yet if i can get more people that are facing the same issues, we can get together to file a class action lawsuit against Nissan.
it's obvious that this is a factory defect and from the looks of it, it appears as if they had a primer issue because the paint is completing coming off the metal piece. Please reference Nissan's response below, as well as the pictures illustrating the issues in my car.
Best Regards,
Jhon Reina
07/20/2020
Case # 40717428
Thank you for allowing us an opportunity to review your concerns regarding your 2016 NISSAN MAXIMA.
As a company interested in winning lifetime customers, Nissan regrets any inconvenience you may have experienced, and we appreciate you taking the time to contact us regarding the situation.
Nissan carefully considered your request and reviewed all available facts pertaining to your specific situation. After this thorough review, Nissan determined that we are unable to offer financial assistance with the repair of the peeling paint due to the vehicle being outside of your Basic Warranty.
We realize this may not be the answer you were looking for, however we hope that you understand our position. If you have any further comments or concerns, please feel free to contact us directly at 1-615-725-7445 and reference your Case #40717428.
Thank you again for taking the time to contact us.
Sincerely,
Nissan
________________________
Tinesha
Consumer Affairs Representative
Nissan North America, Inc.
Hi Jhon -
I just got an email about this because I'm still subscribed to this forum. Been a while since I've posted here, but I wanted to respond to your problem. What I see going on there with your paint isn't clearcoat delamination, rather seems to be an issue with the paint not bonding to the primer properly. There can be a few reasons why this happens and two come to mind right away. Either the car wasn't painted properly from the factory, or that part of the car had some existing damage and was repainted at the Dealer level. Maybe the car was damaged on the transport and when they got it to the Dealer they ran it through their body shop and performed a repaint with a blend. I have purchased, one time, a car way back in the day from a Ford Dealer that had a repaint on the hood. Unfortunately, I took delivery of the car at night and didn't catch it. Needless to say, I was upset about it later when I did see it. Back then, I was less educated on paints and paint jobs and didn't know what to look for when buying a car. Today, I thoroughly inspect the car for paint rework and never take delivery in the evening or at night.
So, unfortunately for you, the vehicle only has a 1 year/ 12k mile warranty on the paint. That warranty doesn't cover anything environmental and only would cover any workmanship defect or factory flaw. Getting the manufacture to admit or acknowledge anything like this is like trying to hold water in a fishnet... it's not happening. If this had happened in your first year or sooner, you probably could've gotten it fixed for nothing. However, the fix would be repainting at the Dealer level and then you could run into color match issues and blending seams that you might see. Breaking the factory clear is never a good thing, especially if it has metal flake in it. None of what I've lain down in front of you here has a happy ending, so you really only have a couple of options. You can chase this legally but most likely not get anywhere, or you can go find a quality paint shop and have the problem fixed by a reputable painter. After 4 years of baking in the sun and car wash surfactants washed over the paint, you may find the color match could be off a little. Definitely take it in and have someone give you an estimate on the repaint though. That way you know what you're looking at as it relates to cost. By the way, since my last post above about my background and what I use on paints to seal them, I have gotten into ceramic coatings. I would recommend this if you can afford to have a professional do it for you, or do it yourself if you already know how for a lot less with the same results. I still have that 2016 Maxima and it looks better still than the day I purchased it. Great car and I'll drive it until there is something I choose differently down the road. Here are some current pics of my Maxima after double coating it with a very high-end ceramic back in March this year. I spent 5 days polishing the wheels and correcting the paint to make sure it was as perfect as possible before applying the two ceramic coats. The car right now is nearing 50k miles. It is garage kept and I hand wash it in the driveway. It's never seen a carwash since I purchased it. I ceramic coated the wheels and the wheel barrels also. Actually, the whole car is ceramic coated... lol.
I wish I had something better to tell you, but it is what it is, my friend.
I just got an email about this because I'm still subscribed to this forum. Been a while since I've posted here, but I wanted to respond to your problem. What I see going on there with your paint isn't clearcoat delamination, rather seems to be an issue with the paint not bonding to the primer properly. There can be a few reasons why this happens and two come to mind right away. Either the car wasn't painted properly from the factory, or that part of the car had some existing damage and was repainted at the Dealer level. Maybe the car was damaged on the transport and when they got it to the Dealer they ran it through their body shop and performed a repaint with a blend. I have purchased, one time, a car way back in the day from a Ford Dealer that had a repaint on the hood. Unfortunately, I took delivery of the car at night and didn't catch it. Needless to say, I was upset about it later when I did see it. Back then, I was less educated on paints and paint jobs and didn't know what to look for when buying a car. Today, I thoroughly inspect the car for paint rework and never take delivery in the evening or at night.
So, unfortunately for you, the vehicle only has a 1 year/ 12k mile warranty on the paint. That warranty doesn't cover anything environmental and only would cover any workmanship defect or factory flaw. Getting the manufacture to admit or acknowledge anything like this is like trying to hold water in a fishnet... it's not happening. If this had happened in your first year or sooner, you probably could've gotten it fixed for nothing. However, the fix would be repainting at the Dealer level and then you could run into color match issues and blending seams that you might see. Breaking the factory clear is never a good thing, especially if it has metal flake in it. None of what I've lain down in front of you here has a happy ending, so you really only have a couple of options. You can chase this legally but most likely not get anywhere, or you can go find a quality paint shop and have the problem fixed by a reputable painter. After 4 years of baking in the sun and car wash surfactants washed over the paint, you may find the color match could be off a little. Definitely take it in and have someone give you an estimate on the repaint though. That way you know what you're looking at as it relates to cost. By the way, since my last post above about my background and what I use on paints to seal them, I have gotten into ceramic coatings. I would recommend this if you can afford to have a professional do it for you, or do it yourself if you already know how for a lot less with the same results. I still have that 2016 Maxima and it looks better still than the day I purchased it. Great car and I'll drive it until there is something I choose differently down the road. Here are some current pics of my Maxima after double coating it with a very high-end ceramic back in March this year. I spent 5 days polishing the wheels and correcting the paint to make sure it was as perfect as possible before applying the two ceramic coats. The car right now is nearing 50k miles. It is garage kept and I hand wash it in the driveway. It's never seen a carwash since I purchased it. I ceramic coated the wheels and the wheel barrels also. Actually, the whole car is ceramic coated... lol.
I wish I had something better to tell you, but it is what it is, my friend.
Good luck,
Ed
wow I wish mine looked that good. It’s gorgeous! I’m getting i think down the road the front repainted and multiple things touched up and then getting it ceramic coated because it seems I’m keeping it for a few more years now than anticipated. I might also get the 2019/2020 tail lights for mine.
04-08-2016, 12:00 PM
2016 Nissan Maxima Paint Issues
