So I took my 2017 SL with 9K miles to the local dealer in Corinth TX for absolutely annoying brake noise. Most noticeable driving 50+ MPH. Very nice at checkin. I asked if this was a known issue and she said yes. About 40 minutes later she called to say they changed the oil and checked the brake pads and rotars and all was perfectly fine. She actually had the nerve to say that the noise is probably due to the change in temperature in our area....REALLY??? So warm weather I get a quiet car and cold weather I get squeaky car...Hmmmm. So I told her ok. When I come to pick it up, if the brakes start squealing I am going to come back and someone will ride with me. So they decided to look at it again. About 5 hours later she said they turned the rotars and all is good. My drive home was quiet...now will see if it is really fixed with some additional road time.

 

I had a problem with that too before...
I went to the dealer and they resurfaced my rotors and changed the brake pads. All gone and no problem after that and I live in NYC.
Try that.

 

Hi Guys,

I have the 2017 Platinum Maxima with 12k miles on it and since about 6k miles I started to feel the front brakes get bumpy like a warped rotor. It gets worse as the drive gets longer and more braking happens. Was above 55mph now its at 30mph and up. I have 120k miles warranty I took but I hate how dealerships never get anything right and Nissan wants you to go there. I even bought after market rotors and pads from one of the sites talked about on here but have not installed it yet. Should I risk taking it to the dealer for a resurface and new pads or just swap them out?. I am in mid state NY aka Upsate for City people lol. and my closest dealer in Middletown has the worse reviews, the dealer I bought the car from is in Denville NJ and is about 70 min drive. I mean I have the warranty and maybe I should take advantage but I hate when unknown people touch my cars. I have an excellent mechanic who could do the rotors or I can myself its just to damn cold to do outside.

Thanks for any input.

 

The dealer should be able to get your brakes right. I would do that before swapping out the rotors and pads with after market mainly because you will loose the warranty coverage. I realize you are a ways from the dealer so I would talk to the service manager and confirm they have the Nissan parts just in case they are needed. I have had no issues with mine @ 26000 miles and you also should expect flawless noiseless braking. Report back to us

 

I had this same problem when I purchased my 2016 Maxima. I went into the dealership several times over a few months. They machined the rotors a couple of times, but the problem would come back after a few days. The problem did not go away until they finally agreed to fully replace the brake pads under warranty.
I don't think the stock brake pads that come with the car are that great, and they glaze the rotors fairly easily under certain conditions.

I will say that my brakes are getting noisy again with the colder weather, but it goes away once they warm up.

 

I will call the local dealer and explain what is happening and see what can be done before I change out to any after market parts. Will update with how this plays out. Thanks

 

They replaced my front rotors and pads twice and the noise never went away. They never resurfaced since the machine was broken both times. As the other guy said it only lasted for a few days. Hopefully you have better luck. The replacement rotors were not the same as the factory ones, both times... the ones from the factory had some special coating on it so the middle part did not rust. The centers of the new ones were just bare steel and obviously rusted within the first day. It's just really ugly, I'll probably go aftermarket..

first pic is 2nd day after replacing the rotor:

2nd pic is of the rear from factory still no rust.. maybe your dealer is different it's just cosmetic

 

 

get on them, they will replace it, they replaced my rotors and pads 3 times from 10k miles- last one being at 35k . final one fixed the noise, said it was an "upgraded kit". can't believe i drove the car for 25k miles and never got a rest from the noise. it's been about 4 months and the sound hasn't returned

 

 

I had a high-speed squeal which you should never have.
My rotors were glazed - they cut them at 13k miles and they're better.
I expect I'll ***** again at 18-20k miles and have them do the "upgrade kit" or whatever.

 

Yeah, turning rotors is fools play. Actually takes away some ability to remove the heat that causes rotor warping in the first place. Shaving makes them thinner and less resistant to heat! Rotors are too inexpensive to play with them when warped. Still have to change pads too to do it right. I've owned a few cars with warped rotors, Pontiac Bonneville SC'd (soon literally crumbled all around the back side), and my dear '07 Altima (but only once in 124k miles). No problems with Max yet at 12k miles, but I do baby my brakes, esp. during the first 1k miles or so. First sign of squealing I find a nice long, lightly traveled road and "bed" them in as Porsche recommends. Once they are warped though they are done in my book.

 

Nowadays it seems like the is very little you can turn on the factory brake rotors before they go out of width spec. for the price of new rotors, it seems like that is the best fix along with a set of pads too.

 

 

That is just simply not true. I don't disagree with the fact that you can buy new rotors for little more than it costs to machine them, nor that a lot of rotors are not worth machining especially those in Rust belt.
However, typical new rotor has 2mm difference between new rotor and minimum width spec. This has not changed much over the years at all.
When I machine the rotor I make 2 cuts, fast pass and slow pass.
Each pass take 0.004" of an inch, equivalent to 0.1mm, so in total, 0.4 mm is needed to clean up a rotor without major grooving. So when you are dealing with nearly new rotor 10-30k miles, you can machine it multiple times.

Whats best for each and every brake job depends on specific circumstances, but I got tired of depending on machine shop to cut my rotors and just bought a brake lathe. Very happy with my purchase.

 

 

not if its making noise all the time, they will fix it. I mean obviously if it just rained and theres a coat of rust on your rotors and it makes some noise until you burn it off that is normal. I've always had problems with nissan brakes and squealing at low speeds... they replaced my rotors and pads on my '13 altima, '14 max, '16 max all under warrenty because they couldn't fix the noise. probably depends on your dealer too

 

I guess I have been super blessed as I have never had any issues with the brakes on any Nissan I have ever owned. I changed the pads on my '09 Max at just over 100k miles and the still had lots of pad left. I went ahead and changed them because I had new ones but in retrospect should have just returned the new pads.

I only have 10k miles on my '17 Platinum so the jury is still out.

 

Thanks for your view - however turning rotors seems to be a hit or miss proposition, depending on how skilled the lathe operator is. While you appear to have the ability to handle this task. How many of us have a lathe? Especially concerned about warped rotors. Once the disk gets too hot it may loose it's integretity. Around here its about the cost of labor which can easily exceed the cost of materials. For me its about safety - being able to stop on good tires using the best braking available. Very little savings is not worth the aggravation.

 

I could not agree more about skill of the operator and quality of equipment. I used to get the machining done at local Napa. There was only one guy there who could even operate the machine, but he knew what he was doing. One time he was not available, so I had to go to O'Reily. That was a mistake, they basically ruined the rotors I brought in.

About your concern with disk getting too hot. Unless you track your car that is not an issue. Rotor does act as a huge heat sink in braking operation, and there is a tiny amount of loss of heat absorption with every machining of rotors, but clearly that is not enough to concern the industry, since if it was, machining the rotors would not even be a thing then.

Finally, rotors do not warp, its a myth or at least a best way to "describe" what the rotors feel like. What happens is rotor gets high or low spots somewhere on the surface. Every time brake pad passes over that spot, especially at high speed, you get a pulsation that translates into shaking steering wheel/brake pedal. Those spots could be results of bad rotor casting, or pad deposit build-up.

My post is more meant for "consumer" education, and not a critique. As I said, each brake job is different. Its good to have options. If you are a DIYer, its a lot simpler to throw a set of new rotors on.
Amount of savings are entirely dependent on what kind of parts you are buying and can amount from very little to significant.

 

Well put. This discussion can help us all understand the repair options a shop will suggest. Regards,