I've been noticing an issue lately when going to open my locked drivers door. With the key fob in my pocket, if I forget to hit the door handle request switch to unlock the door, and instead just try opening the door, it will open for me, but the panic alarm will go off. I would think that it just wouldn't open when it is locked, and I would have to hit the door handle request switch to get in. Am I missing something, or is something wrong?

 

Could there be a spare key inside the car, so it didn't really lock when you walked away from it? Or there's a door (or trunk or gas cap) ajar when you're trying to lock it, and it didn't really lock?
Try to replicate the issue: lock it, verify that it's really locked by puling on the door handle. Look inside to make sure there's no warning lights on the dashboard. Then walk away, wait a couple minutes, then walk back to it and pull the door handle, see if it opens without unlocking first.

 

Ok, I tried an experiment. The drivers side door is not actually locking. When I push the lock button on the key fob or the lock switch on the door panel inside the car, the drivers side door will not lock, but all of the other doors will. The only way I can lock the drivers side door is if I physically move that small lever by the door handle. So, I am thinking it is the motor inside the door panel that actuates the door lock mechanism has gone bad.

 

I'm experiencing the same thing. Have you had any luck figuring out the problem

 

You are implying that you hear no click sound when you press the exterior door button or the fob?

 

I had a weak driver's door lock solenoid on my departed 2016 Platinum. It was always a half a clunk slower than the other 3 doors. (though it still worked) They did replace it gratis even though I was at 38000 miles. I think you understand what it is for sure. Good luck on the repair.

 

When I press the door handle button, I hear a click coming from the other three doors, but not the drivers side front door. I put my ear right up to the door lock actuator and I hear nothing. I have the part in the garage - I'll be replacing it this weekend. I'll let you guys know the outcome.

 

I would like to hear how this goes and where you sourced the part, how much? Good luck.

 

Ok, job is all done, and the door now locks like its supposed too. I got the part from Zeigler Nissan in Orlando Park, IL. They had the best price on it. My local Nissan dealer wanted to charge MSRP for it, which was substantially more than Zeigler was charging. I paid $120 for it. I found a youtube video of this job on a 2012 Infiniti G37, and the process was very similar. Once you get the door panel off, the Infiniti was a little different than our cars, but it was for the most part the same. I used this video in conjunction with the Maxima FSM to get the job done, and it wasn't bad.

 

Nice goin'.

 

Well done. So it was the solenoid actuator. You saved a bundle!

 

im betting a little lube on the moving parts would have worked
being the drivers door is always used,the motor was a bit weak but lubing would still make it work.

 

Recently I started to have similar issues, and my locksmiths provided a whole list of reasons why the alarm keeps going off:
Malfunctioning key fob
Weak hood latch sensor
Low battery level
Disconnected wiring problems

 

Recently I started to have similar issues, and my locksmiths in e11 provided a whole list of reasons why the alarm keeps going off:
Malfunctioning key fob
Weak hood latch sensor
Low battery level
Disconnected wiring problems
He told me I should make an analysis of the whole locking system and find the bug. Wish my luck!

 

<!--td {border: 1px solid #cccccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->Recently I started to have similar issues, and locksmiths in e11 info contains a whole list of reasons why the alarm keeps going off:
Malfunctioning key fob
Weak hood latch sensor
Low battery level
Disconnected wiring problems
He told me I should make an analysis of the whole locking system and find the bug. Wish my luck!