Dashcam Powered by Mirror
#1
Dashcam Powered by Mirror
I've wanted a dashcam for ages but my biggest hangup has been dealing with the wire from the camera to its power source. Last night I just happened to run across this YouTube video that showed a product that sits in between your rearview mirror and its power source and splits off a USB A connection you can use to connect a dashcam too. Thought y'all might be interested in seeing this.
https://youtu.be/ldIUmfWWKeY
Allegedly it is fine as long as the camera 5v 2a or less and is able to be powered by a USB connection.
Here is the adapter that works for the 8th gen Nissans.
SimpleUSBPort Mirror to Dashcam Adapter (10-pin Type A) https://a.co/d/dWGFE72
Mine arrives tomorrow and I'll be sure to post back how it goes.
https://youtu.be/ldIUmfWWKeY
Allegedly it is fine as long as the camera 5v 2a or less and is able to be powered by a USB connection.
Here is the adapter that works for the 8th gen Nissans.
SimpleUSBPort Mirror to Dashcam Adapter (10-pin Type A) https://a.co/d/dWGFE72
Mine arrives tomorrow and I'll be sure to post back how it goes.
#3
I'm back! This was INSANELY easy to do. It took all of 3 minutes to have my dash cam powered up. Get in the passenger seat, turn the rearview mirror, stick a screwdriver in the clip of the power plug and pull it out while pushing the clip down then plug it into this adapter and plug the adapter into the rearview mirror then plug the USB cable in and plug that into your camera.
I've lost 0 functionality of the rearview mirror and my dashcam powers up right away. The hardest part of this whole thing is deciding where and then attaching the dashcam to my windshield. The power adapter even comes with 2 short USB A cables to mini & micro since your dashcam will probably come with a 9 feet long one.
The only things I would point out is your camera will not be powered unless the ignition is on and be sure to get a camera that is 5v 2a or less power draw.
This is the camera I am using:
VIOFO A119 V3 1440P 60fps Dash Cam with GPS, Enhanced Super Night Vision with HDR and Starvis Sensor, 140° Wide Angle, 2.0‘’ LCD, Smart Parking Mode 24H https://a.co/d/an5wiQu
I've lost 0 functionality of the rearview mirror and my dashcam powers up right away. The hardest part of this whole thing is deciding where and then attaching the dashcam to my windshield. The power adapter even comes with 2 short USB A cables to mini & micro since your dashcam will probably come with a 9 feet long one.
The only things I would point out is your camera will not be powered unless the ignition is on and be sure to get a camera that is 5v 2a or less power draw.
This is the camera I am using:
VIOFO A119 V3 1440P 60fps Dash Cam with GPS, Enhanced Super Night Vision with HDR and Starvis Sensor, 140° Wide Angle, 2.0‘’ LCD, Smart Parking Mode 24H https://a.co/d/an5wiQu
#4
Mirror tap worked well for me
Nice job FTC! I like that setup.
I’ve had good luck doing this in my ‘16 SL. First I used a mirror tap for a radar detector (12v, RJ11). I’ve since ditched the detector.
I wasn’t as neat in the dash cam setup. I bought a 12V to 5V, usb female end wire tap and plugged in a usb male to usb mini male cord.
Needless to say I have a bunch of cable wrapped up behind the mirror but you don’t really notice it. I may eventually do a cleaner setup, as I had to splice solid ends to poke into the mirror plug connectors cause the connector cable I bought had stranded wire.
I see Amazon has several different types of connectors also depending on if 12v, or 12v to 5v, and if mini or micro usb connection to the device.
I found the mirror plug pin connector layout on another site.
I find that for the 10-pin mirror connection:
5 4 3 2 1 (top)
10 9 8 7 6 (bottom)
where #8 was ground & #6 was ACC 12v. #10 is suppose to be constant 12v if you want power all the time.
A multi-meter should confirm the above.
I’m so glad the 8th gen Max rear view mirror setup was this convenient.
I’ve had good luck doing this in my ‘16 SL. First I used a mirror tap for a radar detector (12v, RJ11). I’ve since ditched the detector.
I wasn’t as neat in the dash cam setup. I bought a 12V to 5V, usb female end wire tap and plugged in a usb male to usb mini male cord.
Needless to say I have a bunch of cable wrapped up behind the mirror but you don’t really notice it. I may eventually do a cleaner setup, as I had to splice solid ends to poke into the mirror plug connectors cause the connector cable I bought had stranded wire.
I see Amazon has several different types of connectors also depending on if 12v, or 12v to 5v, and if mini or micro usb connection to the device.
I found the mirror plug pin connector layout on another site.
I find that for the 10-pin mirror connection:
5 4 3 2 1 (top)
10 9 8 7 6 (bottom)
where #8 was ground & #6 was ACC 12v. #10 is suppose to be constant 12v if you want power all the time.
A multi-meter should confirm the above.
I’m so glad the 8th gen Max rear view mirror setup was this convenient.
#5
Nice job FTC! I like that setup.
I’ve had good luck doing this in my ‘16 SL. First I used a mirror tap for a radar detector (12v, RJ11). I’ve since ditched the detector.
I wasn’t as neat in the dash cam setup. I bought a 12V to 5V, usb female end wire tap and plugged in a usb male to usb mini male cord.
Needless to say I have a bunch of cable wrapped up behind the mirror but you don’t really notice it. I may eventually do a cleaner setup, as I had to splice solid ends to poke into the mirror plug connectors cause the connector cable I bought had stranded wire.
I see Amazon has several different types of connectors also depending on if 12v, or 12v to 5v, and if mini or micro usb connection to the device.
I found the mirror plug pin connector layout on another site.
I find that for the 10-pin mirror connection:
5 4 3 2 1 (top)
10 9 8 7 6 (bottom)
where #8 was ground & #6 was ACC 12v. #10 is suppose to be constant 12v if you want power all the time.
A multi-meter should confirm the above.
I’m so glad the 8th gen Max rear view mirror setup was this convenient.
I’ve had good luck doing this in my ‘16 SL. First I used a mirror tap for a radar detector (12v, RJ11). I’ve since ditched the detector.
I wasn’t as neat in the dash cam setup. I bought a 12V to 5V, usb female end wire tap and plugged in a usb male to usb mini male cord.
Needless to say I have a bunch of cable wrapped up behind the mirror but you don’t really notice it. I may eventually do a cleaner setup, as I had to splice solid ends to poke into the mirror plug connectors cause the connector cable I bought had stranded wire.
I see Amazon has several different types of connectors also depending on if 12v, or 12v to 5v, and if mini or micro usb connection to the device.
I found the mirror plug pin connector layout on another site.
I find that for the 10-pin mirror connection:
5 4 3 2 1 (top)
10 9 8 7 6 (bottom)
where #8 was ground & #6 was ACC 12v. #10 is suppose to be constant 12v if you want power all the time.
A multi-meter should confirm the above.
I’m so glad the 8th gen Max rear view mirror setup was this convenient.
#6
In theory, I'd say yes.
I'm not sure how the power drain is with a marginal battery if the car sits a lot, like mine. I've often thought it would be good to try it on constant power, so the dash cam time keeps and it monitors the car when parked out and about.
I'm not sure how the power drain is with a marginal battery if the car sits a lot, like mine. I've often thought it would be good to try it on constant power, so the dash cam time keeps and it monitors the car when parked out and about.
#8
I'd be really curious to know how long the battery could hold up!
#11
not many will come from the front
#12
In case this helps anyone else, I gave this a shot with the following gear:
*Poof*
After that, the camera would no longer power up from the USB dongle on the Dongar adapter (powers up fine on my PC). The Garmin Mini camera input is rated for 1.6 A max and the Dongar adapter is supposed to be able to handle < 2 A, so my hope is that I just had a bad adapter. I ordered a new one and will attempt to return the old one under the assumption that it was faulty. I also disabled the voice commands for the Garmin camera just in case.
The camera works fine and I was able to pull pictures and video from it via my computer, so things look good on that end. Hopefully everything will work out well with the new Dongar adapter when it arrives.
*Poof*
After that, the camera would no longer power up from the USB dongle on the Dongar adapter (powers up fine on my PC). The Garmin Mini camera input is rated for 1.6 A max and the Dongar adapter is supposed to be able to handle < 2 A, so my hope is that I just had a bad adapter. I ordered a new one and will attempt to return the old one under the assumption that it was faulty. I also disabled the voice commands for the Garmin camera just in case.
The camera works fine and I was able to pull pictures and video from it via my computer, so things look good on that end. Hopefully everything will work out well with the new Dongar adapter when it arrives.
Last edited by Polarisdb; 09-14-2022 at 07:03 PM.
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