Currently driving a 2016 with 150,000 miles on it. Recently came upon a scenario where after being stopped at a red light i proceeded to accelerate but got no power and went into limp mode. Put the car in park, turned the car off. Went to turn the car back on and it seemed as if the battery died. After about 2-3 minutes of trying to start the car, car finally starts up and drives fine. Went and got the battery/alternator tested and those checked out fine. No check engine light, or battery lights lit on dash. About a month later, the same thing happens except I didn't turn the car off. I waited about another 3 mins, placed the car in drive and drove off with no issues. If the car is in park and the gas pedal is pressed RPM's move. Took the vehicle to a mechanic, no codes are shown and they couldn't get the same thing to happen when I'm driving it.

I've seen threads that relate the issue to alternator, censors, transmission etc. The car drives completely fine on the highway. No problem accelerating, no loss of power. Has happened 3 times within the last month only after stopped at redlights. Has anyone else encountered a similar issue or have any feedback on where's the first place to attack in order to diagnose problem?

 

Any surgeries to car these last few months, ie electric/fuse, battery, alternator , spark plugs, coils, vacuum lines etc?

Don’t include rotate tires, brake pads since this would be of no consequence.

 

No maintenance of that sort recently. I asked the mechanic about possibly doing a tune up. He seems to be stumped as to what's causing the issue, since there are no codes being thrown.

 

It might be your alternator. I just had mine replaced on my 2017 SL with 140k miles with similar symptoms to yours. Was driving for an hour in 90 degree heat and then one by one, the lights and warnings started going on on the dash, lost throttle, then I lost AC and power steering and car only crawled until I put it in park and shut it off and then it didn't turn on again. Funny thing is that I had it towed to the dealer and there was another 2017 Max there but only with 85k miles, mine has 140k. So it might just be a time thing where the stock alternators wear out around this time.

 

I’m having the same issue did you get it resolved???

 

My alternator also died around 140 K miles with same limp mode symptoms. It is easy to check the output of the alternator when the car has started to verify that it is failing. It is also possible that your alternator is failing but intermittently.

 

I had the same issue on several occasions. I thought it was the gas. I added gas cleaner to the the tank.
i haven’t had any episode in couple month.
my maxima only has 75,000 miles.
The issue im having today: I jist had my brake pads replaced 2 days ago. I stood by car last night and notice a red flashing symbol of the whole car body on the dashboard. The car was turn off though. It keeps flashing all night.

 

Look on page 2-13 of the 2016 Nissan maxima Owners Manual for the answer. Actually I will help you out and quote what it says:

​​​​​​Security indicator light
This light blinks when the ignition switch is placed in the OFF, LOCK or ACC (if so equipped) position. The blinking security indicator light indicates that the security systems equipped on the vehicle are operational. For additional information, refer to “Security systems” in this section.

 

dont rule out... clogged cat.

 

Could possibly be one of the oxygen sensors for the car, same thing happened to mine. Its a safety feature of the car. I guess the biggest thing for one of these typically is if the check engine light is on or not but you would also need a code reader for this.

 

I am having the same exact issue. I've replaced the battery and alternator. For 24 hours it was good then the flickering battery light. I'm very frustrated. Did you get yours running and if so what did you do?

 

I had the stall, intermittent battery flash on dash, limp mode issues. After a few minutes I could sometimes crank and drive home. Other times I needed a "boost." Changed the battery. Problem still existed. Changed the alternator 3x's. They kept burning out. Ended up being the IPDM. Changed it and the problem went completely away. Good luck.

 

I had my 2nd alternator replaced with an OEM and I am on day 3 with zero issues. I'm a little shell shocked now and constantly look for the battery light. So far so good. Good luck to you, I hope that your fix holds.

 

Thanks for the report back, glad the fix worked

 

I have the same issue with my Maxima SR 2016, a month ago the battery light went on, no acceleration at all, some mechanic fix my alternator was burned, same thing happened a couple weeks later and it burned again, I read in this forum that denso alternator are good, so bought one and installed with a friend and the battery light still on, checked all grounds, wiring, I’ve measured voltage in the battery poles and it’s 15,5 v I think is too high, idk if it’s a bad alternator or maybe ipdm, did you bought it new?

 

I had the same issues with my16 max with about 150k miles on it.

First time happened about 4 months ago, I replaced battery problem went away. I tested my alternator and everything seemed fine then. Today it happened again I did it like you, I kept the car running after a few minutes and car ran just fine. I am just wondering if replacing the alternator fixed the problem. Or what did you find out on your car. I am trying to figure it where to start.

thank you in advance for your time.