SFC Ground Clearance + Slammed Ksports = Not good
SFC Ground Clearance + Slammed Ksports = Not good
So installed my SFC's this week and now have an even more interesting time getting around town sometimes...
(cell phone pic sorry)
Suppose i cut that one close? Well...a little too close as you can see the white mark is where i scraped coming out of the incline. I swear i was about to high center my car on the freaking thing lol.
So it looks like i'll be raising my car up a .5" or so (i was going to anyways).
But the bottom line is...putting these on was sooooo worth it. I really does make a very noticeable difference. I'd write a full blown review but it would pretty much say the same thing every other 4th gen review would say. It really does take the slap out of bumps to more of a "thud". So
for awesome chassis stiffening-ride-enhancing-ubercool-mod. But 
on the clearance issue haha
Another thing i now need to figure out is how to stop the exhaust from hitting the cross brace. I thought i had enough room to move but i guess not. Anyone else have the problem? I'll try and have the exhaust hanger tightened up to get more clearance and see if that helps..
(cell phone pic sorry)
Suppose i cut that one close? Well...a little too close as you can see the white mark is where i scraped coming out of the incline. I swear i was about to high center my car on the freaking thing lol.
So it looks like i'll be raising my car up a .5" or so (i was going to anyways).
But the bottom line is...putting these on was sooooo worth it. I really does make a very noticeable difference. I'd write a full blown review but it would pretty much say the same thing every other 4th gen review would say. It really does take the slap out of bumps to more of a "thud". So
for awesome chassis stiffening-ride-enhancing-ubercool-mod. But on the clearance issue hahaAnother thing i now need to figure out is how to stop the exhaust from hitting the cross brace. I thought i had enough room to move but i guess not. Anyone else have the problem? I'll try and have the exhaust hanger tightened up to get more clearance and see if that helps..
Originally Posted by WhiteA32
Wow. Did you install it your self or at a shop?
And for the hangers maybe try hose clamps to tighten them?
And for the hangers maybe try hose clamps to tighten them?
I was worried about this. I'm only on Progress springs but I'm low enough to scrape the frame rails over a lot of speed bumps (small diameter tires), even if I take them slow and diagonally. I'll have to get some COs after I get these, just to raise the car up a bit 
.
.
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
I was worried about this. I'm only on Progress springs but I'm low enough to scrape the frame rails over a lot of speed bumps (small diameter tires), even if I take them slow and diagonally. I'll have to get some COs after I get these, just to raise the car up a bit .
.
you guys do realize that slamming your car that low royally FUBARs the steering geometry and ruins the handling, no?
jack the thing up a bit and get your geometry back. you'll be amazed how much better the car rides and handles.
jack the thing up a bit and get your geometry back. you'll be amazed how much better the car rides and handles.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
you guys do realize that slamming your car that low royally FUBARs the steering geometry and ruins the handling, no?
jack the thing up a bit and get your geometry back. you'll be amazed how much better the car rides and handles.
jack the thing up a bit and get your geometry back. you'll be amazed how much better the car rides and handles.
.... i do need to raise it up. But i don't think the rides going to chance much with coilovers slammed or no slammed..
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
you guys do realize that slamming your car that low royally FUBARs the steering geometry and ruins the handling, no?
jack the thing up a bit and get your geometry back. you'll be amazed how much better the car rides and handles.
jack the thing up a bit and get your geometry back. you'll be amazed how much better the car rides and handles.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
you guys do realize that slamming your car that low royally FUBARs the steering geometry and ruins the handling, no?
jack the thing up a bit and get your geometry back. you'll be amazed how much better the car rides and handles.
jack the thing up a bit and get your geometry back. you'll be amazed how much better the car rides and handles.
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Originally Posted by Poowill
Yes i do, but we low ridin yo! J/k .... i do need to raise it up. But i don't think the rides going to chance much with coilovers slammed or no slammed..
.... i do need to raise it up. But i don't think the rides going to chance much with coilovers slammed or no slammed..hell ya mang. tell em about the nice music B pipes play to your ear when they scrape all over a speed bump !!!!!!!
Originally Posted by Chefasaurus
Is it lower than having the LTB2 and Ksports? As of right now, with the LCA's completely parallel, there's about 2" of total ground clearance.
Originally Posted by WhiteA32
How low is "Too Low"?
1. If your control arms are pointing "up" at the wheel. your camber curve is FUBARd, and as you're turning a corner, your wheel is gaining POSITIVE camber. very very bad thing. It also causes your bump steer to go nuts. (the wheel changes toe as your suspension moved up and down.)
this causes SEVERE tire wear issues, whether travelling on straight or curvy roads.
hit a bump on a straight road and your toe changes, causing the outer edge to scrub on dips (droop) and the inner edges to scrub on bumps (compression).
It also manifests itself in unpredictable handling around corners and will just chew on your inside front tires.
As you're turning a corner, your weight transfers to the outside wheel, causing the car to lean that way. that puts your outside suspension under compression, causing the car to toe in- to turn more into the turn. Your inside tire will be in droop, causing it to toe out- farther into the turn. so the more the car turns in and leans, the more it tries to turn in on itself. turn the wheel a little bit and the car careens to the side of the road/track. been there, done that. VERY hard to control at high speeds.
It also FUBARs your ackerman (look it up if you need a definition. too much time to explain here).
Since its doing that, the weight is transferred to your outside tire and the car follows it. the inside tire is toed WAY out at the point, so basically you're dragging the thing sideways across the pavement. this causes SEVERE inner edge wear, but its usually even enough across the tread that people think its camber wear. (toe wear usually manifests itself in cupping/feathering of the inner/outer edge of the tires. usually 2" or less from the edge. Camber wear is usually simply an even wear across the tire going from full tread on one edge to bald on the other.) this is also what an ackerman problem will show up as when you're looking at tire wear patterns.
This is why I was going through a full set of road race slicks in a day on my car when I was tracking it on a regular basis.
significant (and $$$) modifications to suspension geometry by a race shop are required to fix this issue.
also realize the softer the springs you run, the more lean and suspension travel you will see in corners, which means the more your alignment will change throughout the corner. (we're not talking the static alignment numbers you see on the sheet at the alignment shop... those are only for when the car is sitting at a dead stop with the wheels pointed straight forward. As soon as the car is rolling or turning or braking, those numbers go out the window.)
2. if you have less than 2" of compression on your springs and shocks before you bottom the suspension out.
Ideally for a coilover setup, you want at least 3" total travel (more is better for a street car, less for a track car). you want roughly 1" of droop and 2" of compression. the more of each, the better, but don't go less than that.
that should be enough to confuse most people...
For the most part, here's what you need to know:
1. don't lower a 4th or 5th gen more than about 2". don't lower a 3rd gen more than about 1.5" MAX.
2. once you've set ride height, look at the control arms and see which way they're pointing. if they're pointing up, you're too low. raise the car until they're level. If they're pointing straight- that's as far as you want to go.
If they're pointing down, good. if you are satisfied with the ride height, then call it good and quit screwing with the suspension.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
if they're pointing up, you're too low. raise the car until they're level.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
that should be enough to confuse most people...
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
No need for equations. people's eyes are glazed over already.
Of course, what's sadder and truer is that most people don't realize that, if your eyes glaze from reading a post like that, you probably shouldn't be modifying your suspension...
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Sad, but probably true.
Of course, what's sadder and truer is that most people don't realize that, if your eyes glaze from reading a post like that, you probably shouldn't be modifying your suspension...
Of course, what's sadder and truer is that most people don't realize that, if your eyes glaze from reading a post like that, you probably shouldn't be modifying your suspension...
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
1. If your control arms are pointing "up" at the wheel. your camber curve is FUBARd, and as you're turning a corner, your wheel is gaining POSITIVE camber. very very bad thing. It also causes your bump steer to go nuts. (the wheel changes toe as your suspension moved up and down.)
this causes SEVERE tire wear issues, whether travelling on straight or curvy roads.
hit a bump on a straight road and your toe changes, causing the outer edge to scrub on dips (droop) and the inner edges to scrub on bumps (compression).
It also manifests itself in unpredictable handling around corners and will just chew on your inside front tires.
As you're turning a corner, your weight transfers to the outside wheel, causing the car to lean that way. that puts your outside suspension under compression, causing the car to toe in- to turn more into the turn. Your inside tire will be in droop, causing it to toe out- farther into the turn. so the more the car turns in and leans, the more it tries to turn in on itself. turn the wheel a little bit and the car careens to the side of the road/track. been there, done that. VERY hard to control at high speeds.
It also FUBARs your ackerman (look it up if you need a definition. too much time to explain here).
Since its doing that, the weight is transferred to your outside tire and the car follows it. the inside tire is toed WAY out at the point, so basically you're dragging the thing sideways across the pavement. this causes SEVERE inner edge wear, but its usually even enough across the tread that people think its camber wear. (toe wear usually manifests itself in cupping/feathering of the inner/outer edge of the tires. usually 2" or less from the edge. Camber wear is usually simply an even wear across the tire going from full tread on one edge to bald on the other.) this is also what an ackerman problem will show up as when you're looking at tire wear patterns.
This is why I was going through a full set of road race slicks in a day on my car when I was tracking it on a regular basis.
significant (and $$$) modifications to suspension geometry by a race shop are required to fix this issue.
also realize the softer the springs you run, the more lean and suspension travel you will see in corners, which means the more your alignment will change throughout the corner. (we're not talking the static alignment numbers you see on the sheet at the alignment shop... those are only for when the car is sitting at a dead stop with the wheels pointed straight forward. As soon as the car is rolling or turning or braking, those numbers go out the window.)
2. if you have less than 2" of compression on your springs and shocks before you bottom the suspension out.
Ideally for a coilover setup, you want at least 3" total travel (more is better for a street car, less for a track car). you want roughly 1" of droop and 2" of compression. the more of each, the better, but don't go less than that.
that should be enough to confuse most people...
For the most part, here's what you need to know:
1. don't lower a 4th or 5th gen more than about 2". don't lower a 3rd gen more than about 1.5" MAX.
2. once you've set ride height, look at the control arms and see which way they're pointing. if they're pointing up, you're too low. raise the car until they're level. If they're pointing straight- that's as far as you want to go.
If they're pointing down, good. if you are satisfied with the ride height, then call it good and quit screwing with the suspension.
this causes SEVERE tire wear issues, whether travelling on straight or curvy roads.
hit a bump on a straight road and your toe changes, causing the outer edge to scrub on dips (droop) and the inner edges to scrub on bumps (compression).
It also manifests itself in unpredictable handling around corners and will just chew on your inside front tires.
As you're turning a corner, your weight transfers to the outside wheel, causing the car to lean that way. that puts your outside suspension under compression, causing the car to toe in- to turn more into the turn. Your inside tire will be in droop, causing it to toe out- farther into the turn. so the more the car turns in and leans, the more it tries to turn in on itself. turn the wheel a little bit and the car careens to the side of the road/track. been there, done that. VERY hard to control at high speeds.
It also FUBARs your ackerman (look it up if you need a definition. too much time to explain here).
Since its doing that, the weight is transferred to your outside tire and the car follows it. the inside tire is toed WAY out at the point, so basically you're dragging the thing sideways across the pavement. this causes SEVERE inner edge wear, but its usually even enough across the tread that people think its camber wear. (toe wear usually manifests itself in cupping/feathering of the inner/outer edge of the tires. usually 2" or less from the edge. Camber wear is usually simply an even wear across the tire going from full tread on one edge to bald on the other.) this is also what an ackerman problem will show up as when you're looking at tire wear patterns.
This is why I was going through a full set of road race slicks in a day on my car when I was tracking it on a regular basis.
significant (and $$$) modifications to suspension geometry by a race shop are required to fix this issue.
also realize the softer the springs you run, the more lean and suspension travel you will see in corners, which means the more your alignment will change throughout the corner. (we're not talking the static alignment numbers you see on the sheet at the alignment shop... those are only for when the car is sitting at a dead stop with the wheels pointed straight forward. As soon as the car is rolling or turning or braking, those numbers go out the window.)
2. if you have less than 2" of compression on your springs and shocks before you bottom the suspension out.
Ideally for a coilover setup, you want at least 3" total travel (more is better for a street car, less for a track car). you want roughly 1" of droop and 2" of compression. the more of each, the better, but don't go less than that.
that should be enough to confuse most people...
For the most part, here's what you need to know:
1. don't lower a 4th or 5th gen more than about 2". don't lower a 3rd gen more than about 1.5" MAX.
2. once you've set ride height, look at the control arms and see which way they're pointing. if they're pointing up, you're too low. raise the car until they're level. If they're pointing straight- that's as far as you want to go.
If they're pointing down, good. if you are satisfied with the ride height, then call it good and quit screwing with the suspension.
Kick *** post!!!
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Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,168
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
1. If your control arms are pointing "up" at the wheel. your camber curve is FUBARd, and as you're turning a corner, your wheel is gaining POSITIVE camber. very very bad thing. It also causes your bump steer to go nuts. (the wheel changes toe as your suspension moved up and down.)
this causes SEVERE tire wear issues, whether travelling on straight or curvy roads.
hit a bump on a straight road and your toe changes, causing the outer edge to scrub on dips (droop) and the inner edges to scrub on bumps (compression).
It also manifests itself in unpredictable handling around corners and will just chew on your inside front tires.
As you're turning a corner, your weight transfers to the outside wheel, causing the car to lean that way. that puts your outside suspension under compression, causing the car to toe in- to turn more into the turn. Your inside tire will be in droop, causing it to toe out- farther into the turn. so the more the car turns in and leans, the more it tries to turn in on itself. turn the wheel a little bit and the car careens to the side of the road/track. been there, done that. VERY hard to control at high speeds.
It also FUBARs your ackerman (look it up if you need a definition. too much time to explain here).
Since its doing that, the weight is transferred to your outside tire and the car follows it. the inside tire is toed WAY out at the point, so basically you're dragging the thing sideways across the pavement. this causes SEVERE inner edge wear, but its usually even enough across the tread that people think its camber wear. (toe wear usually manifests itself in cupping/feathering of the inner/outer edge of the tires. usually 2" or less from the edge. Camber wear is usually simply an even wear across the tire going from full tread on one edge to bald on the other.) this is also what an ackerman problem will show up as when you're looking at tire wear patterns.
This is why I was going through a full set of road race slicks in a day on my car when I was tracking it on a regular basis.
significant (and $$$) modifications to suspension geometry by a race shop are required to fix this issue.
also realize the softer the springs you run, the more lean and suspension travel you will see in corners, which means the more your alignment will change throughout the corner. (we're not talking the static alignment numbers you see on the sheet at the alignment shop... those are only for when the car is sitting at a dead stop with the wheels pointed straight forward. As soon as the car is rolling or turning or braking, those numbers go out the window.)
2. if you have less than 2" of compression on your springs and shocks before you bottom the suspension out.
Ideally for a coilover setup, you want at least 3" total travel (more is better for a street car, less for a track car). you want roughly 1" of droop and 2" of compression. the more of each, the better, but don't go less than that.
that should be enough to confuse most people...
For the most part, here's what you need to know:
1. don't lower a 4th or 5th gen more than about 2". don't lower a 3rd gen more than about 1.5" MAX.
2. once you've set ride height, look at the control arms and see which way they're pointing. if they're pointing up, you're too low. raise the car until they're level. If they're pointing straight- that's as far as you want to go.
If they're pointing down, good. if you are satisfied with the ride height, then call it good and quit screwing with the suspension.
this causes SEVERE tire wear issues, whether travelling on straight or curvy roads.
hit a bump on a straight road and your toe changes, causing the outer edge to scrub on dips (droop) and the inner edges to scrub on bumps (compression).
It also manifests itself in unpredictable handling around corners and will just chew on your inside front tires.
As you're turning a corner, your weight transfers to the outside wheel, causing the car to lean that way. that puts your outside suspension under compression, causing the car to toe in- to turn more into the turn. Your inside tire will be in droop, causing it to toe out- farther into the turn. so the more the car turns in and leans, the more it tries to turn in on itself. turn the wheel a little bit and the car careens to the side of the road/track. been there, done that. VERY hard to control at high speeds.
It also FUBARs your ackerman (look it up if you need a definition. too much time to explain here).
Since its doing that, the weight is transferred to your outside tire and the car follows it. the inside tire is toed WAY out at the point, so basically you're dragging the thing sideways across the pavement. this causes SEVERE inner edge wear, but its usually even enough across the tread that people think its camber wear. (toe wear usually manifests itself in cupping/feathering of the inner/outer edge of the tires. usually 2" or less from the edge. Camber wear is usually simply an even wear across the tire going from full tread on one edge to bald on the other.) this is also what an ackerman problem will show up as when you're looking at tire wear patterns.
This is why I was going through a full set of road race slicks in a day on my car when I was tracking it on a regular basis.
significant (and $$$) modifications to suspension geometry by a race shop are required to fix this issue.
also realize the softer the springs you run, the more lean and suspension travel you will see in corners, which means the more your alignment will change throughout the corner. (we're not talking the static alignment numbers you see on the sheet at the alignment shop... those are only for when the car is sitting at a dead stop with the wheels pointed straight forward. As soon as the car is rolling or turning or braking, those numbers go out the window.)
2. if you have less than 2" of compression on your springs and shocks before you bottom the suspension out.
Ideally for a coilover setup, you want at least 3" total travel (more is better for a street car, less for a track car). you want roughly 1" of droop and 2" of compression. the more of each, the better, but don't go less than that.
that should be enough to confuse most people...
For the most part, here's what you need to know:
1. don't lower a 4th or 5th gen more than about 2". don't lower a 3rd gen more than about 1.5" MAX.
2. once you've set ride height, look at the control arms and see which way they're pointing. if they're pointing up, you're too low. raise the car until they're level. If they're pointing straight- that's as far as you want to go.
If they're pointing down, good. if you are satisfied with the ride height, then call it good and quit screwing with the suspension.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
1. If your control arms are pointing "up" at the wheel. your camber curve is FUBARd, and as you're turning a corner, your wheel is gaining POSITIVE camber. very very bad thing. It also causes your bump steer to go nuts. (the wheel changes toe as your suspension moved up and down.)
this causes SEVERE tire wear issues, whether travelling on straight or curvy roads.
hit a bump on a straight road and your toe changes, causing the outer edge to scrub on dips (droop) and the inner edges to scrub on bumps (compression).
It also manifests itself in unpredictable handling around corners and will just chew on your inside front tires.
As you're turning a corner, your weight transfers to the outside wheel, causing the car to lean that way. that puts your outside suspension under compression, causing the car to toe in- to turn more into the turn. Your inside tire will be in droop, causing it to toe out- farther into the turn. so the more the car turns in and leans, the more it tries to turn in on itself. turn the wheel a little bit and the car careens to the side of the road/track. been there, done that. VERY hard to control at high speeds.
It also FUBARs your ackerman (look it up if you need a definition. too much time to explain here).
Since its doing that, the weight is transferred to your outside tire and the car follows it. the inside tire is toed WAY out at the point, so basically you're dragging the thing sideways across the pavement. this causes SEVERE inner edge wear, but its usually even enough across the tread that people think its camber wear. (toe wear usually manifests itself in cupping/feathering of the inner/outer edge of the tires. usually 2" or less from the edge. Camber wear is usually simply an even wear across the tire going from full tread on one edge to bald on the other.) this is also what an ackerman problem will show up as when you're looking at tire wear patterns.
This is why I was going through a full set of road race slicks in a day on my car when I was tracking it on a regular basis.
significant (and $$$) modifications to suspension geometry by a race shop are required to fix this issue.
also realize the softer the springs you run, the more lean and suspension travel you will see in corners, which means the more your alignment will change throughout the corner. (we're not talking the static alignment numbers you see on the sheet at the alignment shop... those are only for when the car is sitting at a dead stop with the wheels pointed straight forward. As soon as the car is rolling or turning or braking, those numbers go out the window.)
2. if you have less than 2" of compression on your springs and shocks before you bottom the suspension out.
Ideally for a coilover setup, you want at least 3" total travel (more is better for a street car, less for a track car). you want roughly 1" of droop and 2" of compression. the more of each, the better, but don't go less than that.
that should be enough to confuse most people...
For the most part, here's what you need to know:
1. don't lower a 4th or 5th gen more than about 2". don't lower a 3rd gen more than about 1.5" MAX.
2. once you've set ride height, look at the control arms and see which way they're pointing. if they're pointing up, you're too low. raise the car until they're level. If they're pointing straight- that's as far as you want to go.
If they're pointing down, good. if you are satisfied with the ride height, then call it good and quit screwing with the suspension.
this causes SEVERE tire wear issues, whether travelling on straight or curvy roads.
hit a bump on a straight road and your toe changes, causing the outer edge to scrub on dips (droop) and the inner edges to scrub on bumps (compression).
It also manifests itself in unpredictable handling around corners and will just chew on your inside front tires.
As you're turning a corner, your weight transfers to the outside wheel, causing the car to lean that way. that puts your outside suspension under compression, causing the car to toe in- to turn more into the turn. Your inside tire will be in droop, causing it to toe out- farther into the turn. so the more the car turns in and leans, the more it tries to turn in on itself. turn the wheel a little bit and the car careens to the side of the road/track. been there, done that. VERY hard to control at high speeds.
It also FUBARs your ackerman (look it up if you need a definition. too much time to explain here).
Since its doing that, the weight is transferred to your outside tire and the car follows it. the inside tire is toed WAY out at the point, so basically you're dragging the thing sideways across the pavement. this causes SEVERE inner edge wear, but its usually even enough across the tread that people think its camber wear. (toe wear usually manifests itself in cupping/feathering of the inner/outer edge of the tires. usually 2" or less from the edge. Camber wear is usually simply an even wear across the tire going from full tread on one edge to bald on the other.) this is also what an ackerman problem will show up as when you're looking at tire wear patterns.
This is why I was going through a full set of road race slicks in a day on my car when I was tracking it on a regular basis.
significant (and $$$) modifications to suspension geometry by a race shop are required to fix this issue.
also realize the softer the springs you run, the more lean and suspension travel you will see in corners, which means the more your alignment will change throughout the corner. (we're not talking the static alignment numbers you see on the sheet at the alignment shop... those are only for when the car is sitting at a dead stop with the wheels pointed straight forward. As soon as the car is rolling or turning or braking, those numbers go out the window.)
2. if you have less than 2" of compression on your springs and shocks before you bottom the suspension out.
Ideally for a coilover setup, you want at least 3" total travel (more is better for a street car, less for a track car). you want roughly 1" of droop and 2" of compression. the more of each, the better, but don't go less than that.
that should be enough to confuse most people...
For the most part, here's what you need to know:
1. don't lower a 4th or 5th gen more than about 2". don't lower a 3rd gen more than about 1.5" MAX.
2. once you've set ride height, look at the control arms and see which way they're pointing. if they're pointing up, you're too low. raise the car until they're level. If they're pointing straight- that's as far as you want to go.
If they're pointing down, good. if you are satisfied with the ride height, then call it good and quit screwing with the suspension.
Hm, I would not have thought of the effects severe lowering would have on the ackerman angle. Good post Matt. We need to start making some tech stickies for teh suspension n00bs y0.
I hope this isn't giving off the vibe that all people slammed are suspension noobs. I totally agree with matt and his input but the fact is people do different things for different reasons. I don't track my car or drive it very aggressively but simply have it like that for looks right now. I know if you ask most people here with slammed ksports like me or VIP, they know what they're doing.
Sorry if i'm getting the wrong vibe, but i guess i feel like matt came in here with something to prove when the topic of this post was not at all directed towards the bad side effects of lowering your car other than my SFC Ground clearance issue... and to provide more info about the new SFC's.
Sorry if i'm getting the wrong vibe, but i guess i feel like matt came in here with something to prove when the topic of this post was not at all directed towards the bad side effects of lowering your car other than my SFC Ground clearance issue... and to provide more info about the new SFC's.
Originally Posted by Poowill
I hope this isn't giving off the vibe that all people slammed are suspension noobs. I totally agree with matt and his input but the fact is people do different things for different reasons. I don't track my car or drive it very aggressively but simply have it like that for looks right now. I know if you ask most people here with slammed ksports like me or VIP, they know what they're doing.
Sorry if i'm getting the wrong vibe, but i guess i feel like matt came in here with something to prove when the topic of this post was not at all directed towards the bad side effects of lowering your car other than my SFC Ground clearance issue... and to provide more info about the new SFC's.
Sorry if i'm getting the wrong vibe, but i guess i feel like matt came in here with something to prove when the topic of this post was not at all directed towards the bad side effects of lowering your car other than my SFC Ground clearance issue... and to provide more info about the new SFC's.
Originally Posted by Poowill
I hope this isn't giving off the vibe that all people slammed are suspension noobs. I totally agree with matt and his input but the fact is people do different things for different reasons. I don't track my car or drive it very aggressively but simply have it like that for looks right now. I know if you ask most people here with slammed ksports like me or VIP, they know what they're doing.
Sorry if i'm getting the wrong vibe, but i guess i feel like matt came in here with something to prove when the topic of this post was not at all directed towards the bad side effects of lowering your car other than my SFC Ground clearance issue... and to provide more info about the new SFC's.
Sorry if i'm getting the wrong vibe, but i guess i feel like matt came in here with something to prove when the topic of this post was not at all directed towards the bad side effects of lowering your car other than my SFC Ground clearance issue... and to provide more info about the new SFC's.
Originally Posted by 97SEdriver
You South Dakotans are so sensitive....maybe because there's just not that many people up there.....
Originally Posted by Poowill
I think i represent the only "South Dakotans" on this forum haha..
Originally Posted by 97SEdriver
Well, there's only like 4 of you in the whole state...so 25% of South Dakotans support maxima.org sounds pretty good......
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having a slammed ride def doesnt mean suspension n00b. and its not rocket science to figure out that extreme lowering is nothing but bad ride quality and handling vs properly lowered car. the busted cv boots and axles can tell you all about this. aside from that, anyone with a fully slammed ride quickly realizes this by taking a turn at 10 mph, when you bounce off the bump stops multiple times. i dont autocross my car either but i like the slammed look. so far, the least my car is setup for is performance. needless to say any slammed maxima handles 200x better than stock suspension, regardless of suspension geomtery. and any performance freak should follow matts advice cuz he is right about everything he said.
ps, slam ur car at ur own risk
ps, slam ur car at ur own risk
Poowill,
I'm pretty low myself riding on Progress coilovers. You've just confirmed what I was afraid of.... clearance issues. Shoot, I don't think Kevlo is that low and he scraped too.
Have you taken a tape measure to it? What do you have...3" of clearance??
I'm pretty low myself riding on Progress coilovers. You've just confirmed what I was afraid of.... clearance issues. Shoot, I don't think Kevlo is that low and he scraped too.
Have you taken a tape measure to it? What do you have...3" of clearance??
Originally Posted by The Wizard
Poowill,
I'm pretty low myself riding on Progress coilovers. You've just confirmed what I was afraid of.... clearance issues. Shoot, I don't think Kevlo is that low and he scraped too.
Have you taken a tape measure to it? What do you have...3" of clearance??
I'm pretty low myself riding on Progress coilovers. You've just confirmed what I was afraid of.... clearance issues. Shoot, I don't think Kevlo is that low and he scraped too.
Have you taken a tape measure to it? What do you have...3" of clearance??
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by The Wizard
Poowill,
I'm pretty low myself riding on Progress coilovers. You've just confirmed what I was afraid of.... clearance issues. Shoot, I don't think Kevlo is that low and he scraped too.
Have you taken a tape measure to it? What do you have...3" of clearance??
I'm pretty low myself riding on Progress coilovers. You've just confirmed what I was afraid of.... clearance issues. Shoot, I don't think Kevlo is that low and he scraped too.
Have you taken a tape measure to it? What do you have...3" of clearance??
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,586
From: the OC & Silicon Valley
Originally Posted by The Wizard
Poowill,
I'm pretty low myself riding on Progress coilovers. You've just confirmed what I was afraid of.... clearance issues. Shoot, I don't think Kevlo is that low and he scraped too.
Have you taken a tape measure to it? What do you have...3" of clearance??
I'm pretty low myself riding on Progress coilovers. You've just confirmed what I was afraid of.... clearance issues. Shoot, I don't think Kevlo is that low and he scraped too.
Have you taken a tape measure to it? What do you have...3" of clearance??
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 160
From: saint cloud, mn
Originally Posted by VIP Maxima
i can assure you that u WILL scrape against speed bumps and such judgin the pics you posted, unless u raise it up a bit.
