Upgrading to Koni Yellows and Eibachs....questions on cutting fronts, rear perch, etc
Upgrading to Koni Yellows and Eibachs....questions on cutting fronts, rear perch, etc
I finally saved up enough money to start putting together my ultimate setup for my 4th gen. Here's my current setup:
AGX and H&R
Ben's rear mounts
stage 2 SFC
stage 2 LTB
traction bars
FSTB
all ES bushings and motor mounts
no aftermarket RSB
I'm going to buy the 4th gen Koni Yellows with Eibach springs, and trim the front threads roughly 1". Is 1" too much?
Here's my understanding how to install the front Konis, taken from an old Dave B post:
"Drill a 3/8" hole in the old strut to remove the oil, take a dremel and cut around the upper edge of the strut, and remove the internals. Slide the insert in the old strut housing, run a bolt through the hole you drilled in the old strut, and thread into the Koni strut. It takes all of 15 minutes."
So in addition to that, what tools will I need to trim the front threads? Has anybody actually done this before? Any pics of what to expect?
Here's the Koni website that talks about the normal install (no trimming)
http://www.koni-na.com/pdf/boltstrut.pdf
From an old JStutter post:
"In a nut shell you cut off a bit of the bottom of the insert and let it poke out the bottom of the housing. This doesnt effect piston travel or the rod, just the overall length. Ill have to put a shortening how to up soon, its pretty easy to understand with pictures. The housing does need to be cut a bit more than what Konis originally call for."
Here's a link to a sr20forum where they talk about cutting Konis:
http://www.sr20forum.com/technical-i...ni-struts.html
From what I understand, the Yellows are externally adjustable up front, but not in the rear. Apparently, setting the rear to 70-80% stiffness is a good setting to run. Does this sounds right?
Has anybody ever used the upper perch on the Konis in the rear? I'm thinking about using it to keep the rear from sagging and hopefully give me a little more clearance for the SFCs. Does using the upper mounts affect ride quality or handling? Suspension travel? Keep in mind I want to reuse Ben's rear mounts.
njmaxseltd had this to say about possible issues with the front inserts:
"The fact that the fronts are not a direct replacement unit does leave room for problems. I've seen them become loose in the old housings and rattle slightly. You have to be sure that the cartridge is very very tight in the old strut housing. I'd even go as far as putting some sort of epoxy on the cartridge so it's totally fixed to the sides of the strut housing. And remember to lock tight that bottom bolt so it doesn't back out!"
So I'm looking to get all the information I can about installing Konis up front, and then trimming the threads. After the basic install, how much extra work am I looking at to trim the front threads?
Has anybody actually done this for a Maxima, or are we just going off the Sentra guys?
Am I missing anything here? Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
AGX and H&R
Ben's rear mounts
stage 2 SFC
stage 2 LTB
traction bars
FSTB
all ES bushings and motor mounts
no aftermarket RSB
I'm going to buy the 4th gen Koni Yellows with Eibach springs, and trim the front threads roughly 1". Is 1" too much?
Here's my understanding how to install the front Konis, taken from an old Dave B post:
"Drill a 3/8" hole in the old strut to remove the oil, take a dremel and cut around the upper edge of the strut, and remove the internals. Slide the insert in the old strut housing, run a bolt through the hole you drilled in the old strut, and thread into the Koni strut. It takes all of 15 minutes."
So in addition to that, what tools will I need to trim the front threads? Has anybody actually done this before? Any pics of what to expect?
Here's the Koni website that talks about the normal install (no trimming)
http://www.koni-na.com/pdf/boltstrut.pdf
From an old JStutter post:
"In a nut shell you cut off a bit of the bottom of the insert and let it poke out the bottom of the housing. This doesnt effect piston travel or the rod, just the overall length. Ill have to put a shortening how to up soon, its pretty easy to understand with pictures. The housing does need to be cut a bit more than what Konis originally call for."
Here's a link to a sr20forum where they talk about cutting Konis:
http://www.sr20forum.com/technical-i...ni-struts.html
From what I understand, the Yellows are externally adjustable up front, but not in the rear. Apparently, setting the rear to 70-80% stiffness is a good setting to run. Does this sounds right?
Has anybody ever used the upper perch on the Konis in the rear? I'm thinking about using it to keep the rear from sagging and hopefully give me a little more clearance for the SFCs. Does using the upper mounts affect ride quality or handling? Suspension travel? Keep in mind I want to reuse Ben's rear mounts.
njmaxseltd had this to say about possible issues with the front inserts:
"The fact that the fronts are not a direct replacement unit does leave room for problems. I've seen them become loose in the old housings and rattle slightly. You have to be sure that the cartridge is very very tight in the old strut housing. I'd even go as far as putting some sort of epoxy on the cartridge so it's totally fixed to the sides of the strut housing. And remember to lock tight that bottom bolt so it doesn't back out!"
So I'm looking to get all the information I can about installing Konis up front, and then trimming the threads. After the basic install, how much extra work am I looking at to trim the front threads?
Has anybody actually done this for a Maxima, or are we just going off the Sentra guys?
Am I missing anything here? Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
Originally Posted by irish44j
just give it up. You'll never beat me in autocross 

I just want a better DD...
What suspension are you on right now?
BTW- I'm also interested in getting some camber plates. Does anybody make them anymore?
Originally Posted by phenryiv1
Nick, your Koni dreams will never compare to my setup! Just face it...
(Subscribing, since I will probably help with the install.)
(Subscribing, since I will probably help with the install.)
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
I just want a better DD...
What suspension are you on right now?
BTW- I'm also interested in getting some camber plates. Does anybody make them anymore?
Camber plates...nobody makes anymore. Too bad I sold my stillen plates. The adjustability was nice, but they made alot of noise and made the front of the car sit about 1/2" higher. I never really got around to really using them anyhow, since you need an alignment each time you adjust the plates to more neg camber....I'm too lazy
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
I'm going to buy the 4th gen Koni Yellows with Eibach springs, and trim the front threads roughly 1". Is 1" too much?
Here's my understanding how to install the front Konis, taken from an old Dave B post:
"Drill a 3/8" hole in the old strut to remove the oil, take a dremel and cut around the upper edge of the strut, and remove the internals. Slide the insert in the old strut housing, run a bolt through the hole you drilled in the old strut, and thread into the Koni strut. It takes all of 15 minutes."
So in addition to that, what tools will I need to trim the front threads? Has anybody actually done this before? Any pics of what to expect?
"Drill a 3/8" hole in the old strut to remove the oil, take a dremel and cut around the upper edge of the strut, and remove the internals. Slide the insert in the old strut housing, run a bolt through the hole you drilled in the old strut, and thread into the Koni strut. It takes all of 15 minutes."
So in addition to that, what tools will I need to trim the front threads? Has anybody actually done this before? Any pics of what to expect?

See the necked-down portion on the bottom of the insert (at the top left of the picture)? That's the part you'll be trimming off. Just don't forget to trim the top of the housing/body down at least an extra inch or so.
Here's the Koni website that talks about the normal install (no trimming)
http://www.koni-na.com/pdf/boltstrut.pdf
From an old JStutter post:
"In a nut shell you cut off a bit of the bottom of the insert and let it poke out the bottom of the housing. This doesnt effect piston travel or the rod, just the overall length. Ill have to put a shortening how to up soon, its pretty easy to understand with pictures. The housing does need to be cut a bit more than what Konis originally call for."
Here's a link to a sr20forum where they talk about cutting Konis:
http://www.sr20forum.com/technical-i...ni-struts.html
From what I understand, the Yellows are externally adjustable up front, but not in the rear. Apparently, setting the rear to 70-80% stiffness is a good setting to run. Does this sounds right?
http://www.koni-na.com/pdf/boltstrut.pdf
From an old JStutter post:
"In a nut shell you cut off a bit of the bottom of the insert and let it poke out the bottom of the housing. This doesnt effect piston travel or the rod, just the overall length. Ill have to put a shortening how to up soon, its pretty easy to understand with pictures. The housing does need to be cut a bit more than what Konis originally call for."
Here's a link to a sr20forum where they talk about cutting Konis:
http://www.sr20forum.com/technical-i...ni-struts.html
From what I understand, the Yellows are externally adjustable up front, but not in the rear. Apparently, setting the rear to 70-80% stiffness is a good setting to run. Does this sounds right?
Has anybody ever used the upper perch on the Konis in the rear? I'm thinking about using it to keep the rear from sagging and hopefully give me a little more clearance for the SFCs. Does using the upper mounts affect ride quality or handling? Suspension travel? Keep in mind I want to reuse Ben's rear mounts.
njmaxseltd had this to say about possible issues with the front inserts:
"The fact that the fronts are not a direct replacement unit does leave room for problems. I've seen them become loose in the old housings and rattle slightly. You have to be sure that the cartridge is very very tight in the old strut housing. I'd even go as far as putting some sort of epoxy on the cartridge so it's totally fixed to the sides of the strut housing. And remember to lock tight that bottom bolt so it doesn't back out!"
"The fact that the fronts are not a direct replacement unit does leave room for problems. I've seen them become loose in the old housings and rattle slightly. You have to be sure that the cartridge is very very tight in the old strut housing. I'd even go as far as putting some sort of epoxy on the cartridge so it's totally fixed to the sides of the strut housing. And remember to lock tight that bottom bolt so it doesn't back out!"
So I'm looking to get all the information I can about installing Konis up front, and then trimming the threads. After the basic install, how much extra work am I looking at to trim the front threads?
Has anybody actually done this for a Maxima, or are we just going off the Sentra guys?
Am I missing anything here? Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!
And make sure the threads on the tip of the rod aren't damaged.
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
You should trim them as much as you can while still leaving adequate thread. 1" sounds about right.
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
...
IMO you shouldn't have any problems with the rears topping out.
...
IMO you shouldn't have any problems with the rears topping out.
...
Originally Posted by Chunger
I'll disagree, on that point. With my INTRAX my rears suspension travel "bottomed" out more than my front. In fact, after I got my front Koni's modified (shortened), it was less noticiable improvement than the rear improvement...
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
Using the top lower spring perch will raise the rear up further, making the static state of the strut less compressed. So basically, using the TOP lower spring perch will make you less likely to bottom out and more likely to "top" out (extend or droop fully).
I've used both positions on the Koni lower perch:
INTRAX - upper
H-Tech - lower
Neither of them bottom out... but yes you are correct.
I misinterpreted your reply originally. I thought you meant WITHOUT the modified rear mounts. My bad.
The more I read about this, the more confused and uncertain I am.
The guy on the SR20 board seems to swear by JB Weld to hold it in place, but MorpheusZero has a good point about not being able to take out the insert if something goes wrong. If you're reading this, what did you do JSutter?
Also, if I'm reading this correctly, you trim 1" off the bottom thread thing, but also 1" from the body of the shock? The pics are kinda helpful, but I think I could use some before/after shots so I know what I'm looking at.
I'm also not sure what other small parts are needed for the job. The Sentra guy mentioned: "1 1/4 inch bicycle headset spacer on the bottom of the strut and then the OEM Koni washer tightens down onto that". He also mentions the weld on spring perchs from GC, but I assume this is only for a GC setup....?
So.....do I have this stuff right, or am I missing something?
The guy on the SR20 board seems to swear by JB Weld to hold it in place, but MorpheusZero has a good point about not being able to take out the insert if something goes wrong. If you're reading this, what did you do JSutter?
Also, if I'm reading this correctly, you trim 1" off the bottom thread thing, but also 1" from the body of the shock? The pics are kinda helpful, but I think I could use some before/after shots so I know what I'm looking at.
I'm also not sure what other small parts are needed for the job. The Sentra guy mentioned: "1 1/4 inch bicycle headset spacer on the bottom of the strut and then the OEM Koni washer tightens down onto that". He also mentions the weld on spring perchs from GC, but I assume this is only for a GC setup....?
So.....do I have this stuff right, or am I missing something?
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
The more I read about this, the more confused and uncertain I am.
The guy on the SR20 board seems to swear by JB Weld to hold it in place, but MorpheusZero has a good point about not being able to take out the insert if something goes wrong. If you're reading this, what did you do JSutter?
Also, if I'm reading this correctly, you trim 1" off the bottom thread thing, but also 1" from the body of the shock? The pics are kinda helpful, but I think I could use some before/after shots so I know what I'm looking at.
I'm also not sure what other small parts are needed for the job. The Sentra guy mentioned: "1 1/4 inch bicycle headset spacer on the bottom of the strut and then the OEM Koni washer tightens down onto that". He also mentions the weld on spring perchs from GC, but I assume this is only for a GC setup....?
So.....do I have this stuff right, or am I missing something?
The guy on the SR20 board seems to swear by JB Weld to hold it in place, but MorpheusZero has a good point about not being able to take out the insert if something goes wrong. If you're reading this, what did you do JSutter?
Also, if I'm reading this correctly, you trim 1" off the bottom thread thing, but also 1" from the body of the shock? The pics are kinda helpful, but I think I could use some before/after shots so I know what I'm looking at.
I'm also not sure what other small parts are needed for the job. The Sentra guy mentioned: "1 1/4 inch bicycle headset spacer on the bottom of the strut and then the OEM Koni washer tightens down onto that". He also mentions the weld on spring perchs from GC, but I assume this is only for a GC setup....?
So.....do I have this stuff right, or am I missing something?
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