View Poll Results: How interested are you?
Bah. I'm not paying for that. I'd rather have horrible steering and buy tires every 10,000 miles
5
17.24%
I'm in for the non-adjustable arms for $500-600
12
41.38%
I'm in for the fully-adjustable ones for $750-1000
10
34.48%
I'm in for the fully-adjustable ones at any cost
2
6.90%
Voters: 29. You may not vote on this poll
Gauging Interest: BlehmCo custom control arms...
http://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324735
Another similar product. This one is a truely over the top. There was a day that I might have spent that on one product but that day has come and gone.
Another similar product. This one is a truely over the top. There was a day that I might have spent that on one product but that day has come and gone.
http://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324735
Another similar product. This one is a truely over the top. There was a day that I might have spent that on one product but that day has come and gone.
Another similar product. This one is a truely over the top. There was a day that I might have spent that on one product but that day has come and gone.
Man, that dude has plenty of criticism for heim joints. But then the SPL guy, who I'm more inclined to trust anyway, says this:
Self-cleaning and self-sealing sounds awfully appealing to me... 
Originally Posted by kuah@splparts.com
I am not going to say much more about the other points, it is not my intention to get into an argument. But since you are attacking my products for using heim joints, I will address this specifically:
All bushings and joints fail eventually, ball joints, heim joints, etc. Unless you are claiming ball joints lasts forever?
There are many different producers of heim joints, many different levels of quality, many different technologies. We are using QA1 Endura rod ends on most of our arms, QA1 employs a injection molded teflon/kevlar race, this gives it a very tight seal to the ball, making them self-cleaning and self-sealing. In applications where we do not use Endura rod ends, we have also used Seals-it rod end to seal the rod end if possible (sometimes it is just not possible to use a seal). We have many customers with our products going on 3-5 years with original heim joints on the arms, without any clunking.
You are trying to compare "degrees" of reliability. A poor quality rod end might last 1-2 years, and a OEM quality rod end might last 5-10 years. But a good quality, sealed, rod end can last 5-10 years as well.
All bushings and joints fail eventually, ball joints, heim joints, etc. Unless you are claiming ball joints lasts forever?
There are many different producers of heim joints, many different levels of quality, many different technologies. We are using QA1 Endura rod ends on most of our arms, QA1 employs a injection molded teflon/kevlar race, this gives it a very tight seal to the ball, making them self-cleaning and self-sealing. In applications where we do not use Endura rod ends, we have also used Seals-it rod end to seal the rod end if possible (sometimes it is just not possible to use a seal). We have many customers with our products going on 3-5 years with original heim joints on the arms, without any clunking.
You are trying to compare "degrees" of reliability. A poor quality rod end might last 1-2 years, and a OEM quality rod end might last 5-10 years. But a good quality, sealed, rod end can last 5-10 years as well.
My heims are a different brand, but the same thing he uses.... they were doing the teflon/poly injected thing before QA1 was doing them. I even use those on my little 3/8" rear sway bar brackets..
Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 71
From: Redding, California
Bejay, those are initial guesses at price numbers. hopefully they'll be much less, but I don't want to find out after I say they'll be $300 and take deposits that they're going to wind up costing $600 to do them properly.
In order to make them cost-effective and do what they need to do, I'll have to use something other than Kojima's chop-and-weld-a-monoball method. that's only one of the issues we run into with these cars.. Kojima's style works for a cheap-and-dirty method, but I'm going for something a bit more elegant in the long run.
In order to make them cost-effective and do what they need to do, I'll have to use something other than Kojima's chop-and-weld-a-monoball method. that's only one of the issues we run into with these cars.. Kojima's style works for a cheap-and-dirty method, but I'm going for something a bit more elegant in the long run.
I am definitely interested-- especially in the adjustable kind. And I like your commitment to "something a bit more elegant". I have a 3rd gen, running normal ride height right now. One of the things I really dislike about irregular, "fast" corners, usually off-camber-- is that when my car is in the midst of that situation, the suspension travel actually has the feel of moving on a diagonal. Couldn't tell you what that means in caster, camber, etc., but it scares the crap outta me. Still need a upper strut brace, but what about developing a lower brace of some kind? I know I've read about them and with the 3rd gen's cavernous, ungussetted space between the front frame rails, it just looks weak and flexible under there. Any way to reposition the inner, LCA pivot axis; maybe lower it?
What you're feeling on the car is the fact the stock suspensioin causes the car to lean over enough you could almost scrape your ear on the road during a hard corner.
since the car is leaning that much, the suspension doesn't move the car up and down. it moves it at a diagonal in relation to the road. probably what you're feeling.
These arms really wouldn't do you any good on a stock suspension. only when you lower the car. (stock control arms will only allow about 1-1.5" of lowering on a 3 gen before you start going backwards on handling...)
As for moving the control arm mounting locations, you don't want to move the inner points down. you would want to move them up. But that's unpossible because the frame is in the way. you'd do more harm than good if you tried. The other option is to move the outer pivot point down- which is what thest custom LCAs will do.
As for braces, go take a look at the website in my sig. click on Suspension.
since the car is leaning that much, the suspension doesn't move the car up and down. it moves it at a diagonal in relation to the road. probably what you're feeling.
These arms really wouldn't do you any good on a stock suspension. only when you lower the car. (stock control arms will only allow about 1-1.5" of lowering on a 3 gen before you start going backwards on handling...)
As for moving the control arm mounting locations, you don't want to move the inner points down. you would want to move them up. But that's unpossible because the frame is in the way. you'd do more harm than good if you tried. The other option is to move the outer pivot point down- which is what thest custom LCAs will do.
As for braces, go take a look at the website in my sig. click on Suspension.
Last edited by Matt93SE; Jan 24, 2008 at 06:32 AM.
Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 71
From: Redding, California
What you're feeling on the car is the fact the stock suspensioin causes the car to lean over enough you could almost scrape your ear on the road during a hard corner.
since the car is leaning that much, the suspension doesn't move the car up and down. it moves it at a diagonal in relation to the road. probably what you're feeling.
These arms really wouldn't do you any good on a stock suspension. only when you lower the car. (stock control arms will only allow about 1-1.5" of lowering on a 3 gen before you start going backwards on handling...)
As for moving the control arm mounting locations, you don't want to move the inner points down. you would want to move them up. But that's unpossible because the frame is in the way. you'd do more harm than good if you tried. The other option is to move the outer pivot point down- which is what thest custom LCAs will do.
As for braces, go take a look at the website in my sig. click on Suspension.
since the car is leaning that much, the suspension doesn't move the car up and down. it moves it at a diagonal in relation to the road. probably what you're feeling.
These arms really wouldn't do you any good on a stock suspension. only when you lower the car. (stock control arms will only allow about 1-1.5" of lowering on a 3 gen before you start going backwards on handling...)
As for moving the control arm mounting locations, you don't want to move the inner points down. you would want to move them up. But that's unpossible because the frame is in the way. you'd do more harm than good if you tried. The other option is to move the outer pivot point down- which is what thest custom LCAs will do.
As for braces, go take a look at the website in my sig. click on Suspension.
Whoa-ho-ho! Matt! I AM impressed! Not only are you very knowledgeable, but you really have the "CAN DO" attitude I love. I can see you and I will be exchanging a lot of currency in the near future. Traxtar944 has also shared his acquisition of your parts/mods for the brakes and suspension and highly recommends your stuff! Good job, man!
So-- I have a question. On your site, it looks like the "stage two" lower brace is only designed for 4th gen and up. Anything available on the 3rd? Will it also require enlarging one of the LCA brace mount holes, or no? And I have to say, I have envisioned nearly every one of your products myself at one time or another and lamented that no one has done what you have... I will definitely sleep better tonight--
with visions of 3rd gen suspenmods dancing in my head! LOL
not to hijack the thread, but since we are talking about bettering geometry, anyone seen this before or know anything about it?
http://www.oncamber.com
http://www.oncamber.com
I'm working on them when I have time.
....But since my fifth transmission just s*** itself last week, I'm spending all my time working on that right now, as well as the long list of other things going on around the house. don't expect anything here for several months- it's going to take a while to get these developed and made and finalized.
....But since my fifth transmission just s*** itself last week, I'm spending all my time working on that right now, as well as the long list of other things going on around the house. don't expect anything here for several months- it's going to take a while to get these developed and made and finalized.
I'm working on them when I have time.
....But since my fifth transmission just s*** itself last week, I'm spending all my time working on that right now, as well as the long list of other things going on around the house. don't expect anything here for several months- it's going to take a while to get these developed and made and finalized.
....But since my fifth transmission just s*** itself last week, I'm spending all my time working on that right now, as well as the long list of other things going on around the house. don't expect anything here for several months- it's going to take a while to get these developed and made and finalized.
well how else are we supposed to get the kind of caster we need to produce the levels of camber mid-turn that double wishbone equipped cars produce? (miata curves show that from stock they produce anywhere from -0.5 to as much as -6 degrees under one foot travel!)...whereas macpherson curves of most stock cars show anywhere from linear (w/zero slope) to gain or lose a degree under full compression depending on the car. There's always been talk on the forums here of half-@$$ed ways to introduce more caster via adding washers in certain places, but none are ideal solutions...
Last edited by michaelnyden; Jan 30, 2008 at 12:47 PM.
thank you, you beat me to it...
the better illustrate it, the miata gains nearly 0.5 deg. of neg. camber per degree of body roll
the better illustrate it, the miata gains nearly 0.5 deg. of neg. camber per degree of body roll
Last edited by michaelnyden; Jan 30, 2008 at 12:50 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,144
Hey Matt I think you keep making my interest in my car increase. So even though I might have to buy these you will be keeping me from buying a new car. So really you are saving me money. Your such a good friend. Can you talk to Sara and convince her.
my suspention on the 97 auto maxima is shot. i need new parts. what do you recomend, cause im really looking for a whole replacement of everything, and i want the pillow ball and hiem etc. i got suckered into the whole thing from the sport compact car article on there 300zx project car.
anyone ever thought of doing chassie modification like opera performance? they cut out beveled holes in the chassie to make it stronger and lighter (and add more metal to places that need even more strenght).
stuff like this... im interested in.
http://splparts.com/main4/parts/Z32/...tMultilink.htm
http://splparts.com/main4/parts/Z32/...rs/default.htm
anyone ever thought of doing chassie modification like opera performance? they cut out beveled holes in the chassie to make it stronger and lighter (and add more metal to places that need even more strenght).
stuff like this... im interested in.
http://splparts.com/main4/parts/Z32/...tMultilink.htm
http://splparts.com/main4/parts/Z32/...rs/default.htm
Last edited by mindlessoath; Mar 8, 2008 at 05:01 PM.
I thought about it for a while, when I had my subframe connectors custom done at a local famous guy who preps chassis and roll cages for speed world challenge and such, he asked if I would ever consider having him do it to my max, but the cost was way too much for wallet.
Hey Matt, you can count on me as I would go for the full adjustable one but any how I'm interested one way or another as this is a weak link on our car.
Keep up the good work.
Keep up the good work.
Last edited by doublea; May 20, 2008 at 11:40 AM.
Matt, have you had any time to do more with this? After having my alignment done today, I was thinking "it sure would be nice to be able to adjust the caster and camber."
I would be down for the frugal option. Basically, I would be down for a set of LCAs that are longer than the stock 4th gens to save my axles. Eliminating bumpsteer would be cool too.
Dude I am flat broke, can't even buy gas, and I'm still looking in this section to see if this thread was updated.
I need new LCA bushings and ball joints, please Matt, don't disappoint
Well, wait until I have the cash and the will to buy them, then don't disappoint.
I need new LCA bushings and ball joints, please Matt, don't disappoint
Well, wait until I have the cash and the will to buy them, then don't disappoint.
Yeah, that's the issue with the rest of the world too. I either have time or money, never both.
The update is there is no update. project is stalled until I have more time and money to develop the parts..
would be really nice to have a spare front subframe to fiddle with too, but that's just wishful thinking... another few hundred bucks I'll never see again if I do that.
The update is there is no update. project is stalled until I have more time and money to develop the parts..
would be really nice to have a spare front subframe to fiddle with too, but that's just wishful thinking... another few hundred bucks I'll never see again if I do that.
Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 297
From: Long Beach, CA is where i live. Queens NYC is always home.
I gotta question Matt.. Been readin this tread and I`m curious on what u intend to design. Sounds great.. but in all the post .. u never mention what generation maxima u are making this for .. is it for all ??? I noticed that everyone here has 3rd thru 6th gens
Will be looking at 4th or 5th gens first, as that's where the most demand is. 4th gen guys track their cars more, but 5th gen guys seem to have more money to spend. (And we all know money talks...)
3rd gens would probably be a 1-off thing I'll do for myself or something, cause there's not going to be much demand for go-fast parts for a 20 yr old car... I sell more parts to 5th gen owners than I do anyone else on the LTBs and brake kits, so that's probably where I'll focus here as well.
3rd gens would probably be a 1-off thing I'll do for myself or something, cause there's not going to be much demand for go-fast parts for a 20 yr old car... I sell more parts to 5th gen owners than I do anyone else on the LTBs and brake kits, so that's probably where I'll focus here as well.