Alright...

Progress rear sway bar
Racingline V2 step 3 rear end-links (stock setting)
Energy suspension bushings

My car is bi-polar and depending on the temperature/humidity, the rear end has the sound of s!@# bushings or bad end-links.

I took the RSB brackets off today and left the end-link bolts on...lubed the bushings up and proceeded to putting them back on, but the tension from the end-links was too much, so I took the end-link bolts off and when both were just dangling there it didn't even look like they would line up.

So I managed to force the thing on and went for a spin...less noise, but it's still there!

End-links are pretty much brand new...could it be possible that the firm compound of the ES bushings for the RSB are causing the noise? I know that the RSB isn't upside down because it didn't make a loud clunk when I left my driveway.

When it's cold out/no sun out, then the b!@#$ is quiet...but once it's nice and sunny out the SOB just won't shut up around turns and it makes me want to "flip a b!@#$" ( http://youtube.com/watch?v=jodrtw7CN7M ) this thing into something!

Please enlighten me on what could be wrong

thanks,
dan

 

PM me your # and I'll give you a shout tomorrow evening (I am on Central time) and I'll see what I can do. I installed both front and rear endlinks, and FSTB from Racingline. I haven't had any problems...yet... My whip is an 08 SE

 

not trying to thread jack, but i can not make my own post yet and I have rear suspension issues.

when I go over bumps, uneven roads etc the rear shakes. It feels loose. When I am turning it's worse. feels like the rear is going to slide out on me like I'm pushing a unstable RWD vehicle into a hard turn.

I was thinking about trying new springs and shocks all the way around. Is that the problem, one of them or should I start some where else? My 95 Maxima has 140k on it. I do not really want to "hook" the car up persay. I mainly bought it b/c of my commute back n for to my Army Base daily. Round trip each day I put on about 93 miles. I bought this car with 124k on it and just over the last 5k I been noticing it being shakey and unstable in the rear. Even tho I am not looking to hook up the car I figured I might has well put after market shocks/springs on it since it might be cheaper then going stock. Plus after I bought it I took off the 14" wheels that the previous owner had on it ( i think they were 3rd gens ) and stuck on 17" altima wheels I had in the garage. So dropping it like 2" or so might look good.

Any how any opinions on my rear suspension issue? Do you all think it's the shock/springs? IF so is there anyone selling any for a good price? I prefer newm but would consider used, if there in great shape and the miles are low.

Seen some AGX's in the forsale thread, but I can't seem to post in there.

thanks

 

Bad shocks just cause the car to be bouncy. If you stand at your trunk and push down and let the car spring back up, see if it bounces.

I'm guessing you have a 3rd gen then? I would try having a mod move this thread to the 3rd gen section. You may get more help there than in here.

 

95 Slow Max has a 4th gen.... 95= 1995

besides that I know him. His car does not bounce. Shakey, loose rear is his issue

 

95SlowMax's problem could be bad trailing arm bushings (where the twist beam axle is attached to the chassis). Uncontrolled axle steer can indeed feel nervous.

This could also be a Scott-Russell link issue, so I'd look there too. Bushings, brackets (cracked, bent), and the link itself (bent, buckled).

Have the wheel bearings been checked?



Norm

 

Gotcha. I wasn't even paying attention to his name. I just saw that he compared his car to a RWD car and said that it had 14" 3rd gen wheels.

 

Norm I was told at a inspection shop my rear LCA was bad by one inspector. I ended up going to another to get it inspecting since the place who said my LCA was bad wanted over $500 to replace that and my rear brakes (pads and disks) along with inspection.

The 2nd place did not mention the LCA, just the brakes in the rear. Then it was $270 out the door.

So maybe I do have a issue such has you stated. I work on my Race car and Race bike, but this car I don't wanna get dirty on. Sounds funny, but I just want it to get me back n forth to work. I don't want to get dirty on it . What would a avg price be to replace what you were refering to above (parts and install out the door)?. I would not be going to a Dealer.

Wheel bearings are fine.

Whats the Scoot-Russell link issue?

 

I have no idea on prices, as I mostly do my own work on all of the cars.

A Scott-Russell link problem could be any of the items I mentioned - basically anything that interferes with its ability to locate the axle laterally or move through its range of motion smoothly. For example, bad S-R link bushings would probably cause poor lateral axle location. The axle could then wander a bit before much positive control occurred. Some bushing compliance is necessary for that arrangement to work at all, but if one or both of the axle-side bushings cracked or tore the S-R would behave more like a Panhard bar with a squishy axle side bushing.


Norm