Ditto /b/, doesnt make sense to bash fellow maxima'ers. Just dont get it?

I will end up going with a LTB2 down the line. Anybody have the write up? Or is it linked on their site, or come with the LTB2.

 

search man, theres a write up somewhere on the forums. it's not too hard to install. only 4 bolts. takes no more than 30 minutes with the right tools.

 

I just set my illuminas.... to 1 in front and 3 in Rear
and let me tell you the LTB STG 2 is still doing a great job.
i cant imagine my max with out it now i can never go back.

 

Does either the LTB stage 1 or 2 clear hotshot headers?

 

Does you read the thread?

 

Yes, I did. I remember them not being able to clear headers but they clear aftermarket y-pipes. I was just wondering if they cleared headers now.

 

Try to imagine running LTB2, with JIC coilover, ES bushing, FSTB, RSB, RSTB + subframe connector & traction bar... This is going to be my set-up for next spring.

 

I know this is old, but I also had the same exact fitment issue. That right rear corner is still stripped and my car creaks when I brake or accelerate. I can't tap it any larger, because I already tried putting a heli-coil which only worked for a little while and the hole is already as large as the LCA bracket's hole..

However, this issue is easy to combat. You can fit the front mounting points, then you can pull the right rear corner to where it will fit over the hole and zip tie it in place so that you can insert the bolt without it stripping...I just haven't gotten around to buying and replacing that enormous suspension member piece...

 

I'm not that low.. 1.5in the front (Eibachs) with 18s on 40 profile tires.. should i be worried about clearance still? I'm thinking about picking a Stg 2 LTB up I'll have some pics tomorrow of my car going down my driveway.. (pretty steep, have to go sideways on it to not scrape my AE lip)

 

You should probably be ok. but theres only one way to find out , Though the lip may come close in your case, as soon as the tires jump/touch the inclinement (driveway curb in this case) the bar will raise with it too.

I have a stillen lip and am lowered on H&R (1.4inch if i can remember) and under normal cautioned driving I seldomly scrape either. If I do its Either roadkill, or crazy roads where both tread paths have sunken in and the middle remained higher etc.
I'll say this I would scrape the bar a whole lot more if I was any lower.

 

Lol.. Going up the driveway is nothing.. going down is where i have to make sure i go sideways.. :P

 

Hey Matt93SE, if I came down to Houston, could I possibly pay you to put mine on?

 

i'm sure its not that hard to put on.. unbolt the corresponding bolts and the car still supports itself via tires and struts (if on ramps) atleast, thats what it look like.. lol

 

I can tell you haven't installed one of these.

If you know what you're doing the first three bolts are pretty easy to get on. The fourth one is a ***** unless you have a long extension that you don't mind wailing on and a BFH.

I wound up paying a shop to put the last nut on. Well worth it, the car felt solid as hell afterwords.

 

Word +1. After a few attempts I just went down the street. And yeah... its a different car.

 

As I recall, I had two corners that went on ok....and the other two where off by a minimum of half a bolt diameter, in different directions, naturally.

It was interesting, to say the least.

 

I heard it was a bit more complicated with automatics..

 

i received my stage II bar about a month or so. Shipping took a week or so to Canada. I was very happy since i sow before they were backordered or so to speak.
I have a ramp and air tools etc. The best way to line up front nuts in the small bar holes is to obviously use chrome deep sockets. Tighten 1 in, then leave the socket in and then you have to hamer the second socket of the same size for the opposite side so they can line up.
Then after that line up the back with a pry bar of course and yes i chross threaded the threads into the subframe on the right side at rear too. If you want to avoid that get a bur and make the hole on to the tie bar bigger to be easier to line up the bolt through in the subframe.
I also had to use a little bit of hammering at the back to spread the bar a little to get it to line up.
Matt. I would suggest to make the hole in the front of the bar where the 24 mm (i think) nut threads bigger so you can get a socket on there easier. Impact socket is like 5 mm bigger and chrome barely fits without hammer.

 

Any pics of the LTB?

 

If the holes in the rear don't line up when you put the bar on the car, then bend the arms on the front a bit to make them line up. don't try to force a bolt through the hole. good way to strip the threads.

The problem that we have is that the front tubes are stressed during the welding of the bar, and they all flex differently when the stresses are relieved during powdercoating. They all fit on the same jig and fit perfectly on the car before powdercoating. once they come back from the powdercoater, they're all slightly different in the angles of the tubes up front. the 'boxed in' part in the back is all the same.

As for design revisions, that's up to the people that own the company now. I sold it a couple years ago and it's their problem now.

 

couldn't you just mock up an angle iron frame to bolt them on while being powdercoated as to avoid any shifting?

 

How's the powder going to stick then?

 

by the metal being electrically charged, it would stick to the mock frames too but they could be reused. just a thought.

 

I was referring to the points where the parts make physical contact. you'd then have spots on the LTB that don't get powder on them.

 

It's crazy that powdercoating deforms the metal. I'm assuming it's a very high temp process.

 

It depends on the process, but I've seen shops run them upwards of 500F to speed up the curing process on the powder. usually it's done between 300 and 400 though.

I've also seen shops hose things down with a flamethrower to burn off any greases and oils left on them from the fabrication process. this is possibly where the problems are coming from.

There's lots of places you can introduce stresses into the steel during the fabrication and welding process, and then there's lots of places during the coating process that can cause the stresses to come out and the open ends of the bar will flex as the stresses are releived. the boxed-in parts don't move- just the ends of the bar where they can bend.

 

A most acceptable compromise.

 

Depends on who you talk to.

 

yeh, this thing takes some playing around to get it installed but its not impossible in any way.......

 

Are these still available? How would I purchase one?

 

Email sales@blehmco.com and see if they have any. I'm not sure if there's any 5 gens in stock.

 

very nice!

 

I just ordered one of these, is there a write up for installation?

 

yup matt provides a link with your product.

 

i bought it used from another member..

 

If you put the bar under the car, it's pretty self-explanatory what you have to do. 2 nuts in the front on the control arm facing forward, that are 27mm and two nuts that are 19mm. I had to grind down the front 2 because the washer and nut were one unit (2k max) so you might need to do that or buy 2001+ nuts which has them separate.

 

what he said.
if you have a 2000 model, you'll want to check the nuts and see which ones you have. for about 6 months or so of production, Nissan used a flanged nut. For the other 25 years of maxima production, they used a regular nylock nut and a washer.. they're just a few bucks each from Nissan, so if you have the flanged ones you can just order the nuts from any other year of max and they'll work just fine.

 

Curious. Was an argument about whether one of these or a ltb1 could fit a 5.5 gen auto with gen iii cattmans? I've got a. Fstb and rear progress bar. Would love this. If not can it be modified to FIT?

 

i havent recieved it yet so i havent looked under the car yet, is there a write up somewhere for it?

 

Once you go under the car you will see it is straight forward. Just need wheel ramps for front since you want the car to be level when you install. But here are instructions:

http://www.blehmco.com/instructionpages/ltb_install.htm
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=67