Replacing Front Suspension?
Replacing Front Suspension?
So, for the Holidays, I plan on getting some suspension pieces for my car.
Specifically, I want shocks (Illuminas) and springs (Eibachs). However, I have a rather limited budget, so the plan is to order only front shocks and springs.
How would this affect my handling?
Note: I may consider getting rear shocks as well, but no rear springs for sure because I think the rear ride height is fine, and the drop makes it look saggy...
Specifically, I want shocks (Illuminas) and springs (Eibachs). However, I have a rather limited budget, so the plan is to order only front shocks and springs.
How would this affect my handling?
Note: I may consider getting rear shocks as well, but no rear springs for sure because I think the rear ride height is fine, and the drop makes it look saggy...
You have to buy the springs as a set, unless you can find someone here on the .org that's split a set already.
I know a few guys are mixing H&R on one end and Eibach on the other to keep the rake looking decent. Either way you're going to want to put good shocks on both ends. put your money there if you have to spend it somewhere. It'll at least make the car fun to drive.
I know a few guys are mixing H&R on one end and Eibach on the other to keep the rake looking decent. Either way you're going to want to put good shocks on both ends. put your money there if you have to spend it somewhere. It'll at least make the car fun to drive.
buy shocks all around, get the springs later. Like Matt implied, this's a safety issue, you're safer changing all the struts at 1 time, and doing springs later, rather than springs first, or fronts first.
Dr J
Dr J
New questions
Sorry about bring up an old thread, but my question is along the same line.
I'm replacing springs and struts, and have them already; H-Tech/Illuminas. How necessary is it to replace the front and rear strut mounts and front strut bearings? My max has about
88k miles, I bought it used with about 35K on it about 5 years ago.
Last edited by chuckd2k; Mar 12, 2009 at 02:43 PM.
Tough question... For the fronts, does suspension squeek or bind when you turn? If not, inspect the bearing and mount when you take it apart. The bearing's not incredibly expensive @ the dealership, and they should be in stock. The mounts are pricier, and I don't know if they're always in stock. However I'd just get the mounts somewhere with lifetime warranty for cheaper than dealership anyways.
I changed my bearings when I lowered my car at about 120,000 miles. The originals weren't worn, and I coulda cleaned and lubed them and put them back in if I wanted.
I replaced my mounts at about 190,000 miles, mostly because I was driving my car sideways (which probably wore out my hubs that I replaced shortly before the mounts). Otherwise, they wouldn't have worn out so prematurely.
Dr J
I changed my bearings when I lowered my car at about 120,000 miles. The originals weren't worn, and I coulda cleaned and lubed them and put them back in if I wanted.
I replaced my mounts at about 190,000 miles, mostly because I was driving my car sideways (which probably wore out my hubs that I replaced shortly before the mounts). Otherwise, they wouldn't have worn out so prematurely.
Dr J
Thanks
SOME HELP & ADVICE NEEDED!!!
I wasnt sure where to post this so sorry if in the wrong subforum
I currently have a 96 SE...I have the stock honeycomb 16in wheels and all stock suspension and whatever shocks/struts/coils it came with etc...
I want to purchase the MOMO GT-Rs 19in wheels and the vredestein sessanta tires in 225/35/19 and 235/35/19...
I just want to know if I should OR need to get new shocks/coils etc…What adjustments will I have to make to the suspension and stuff?
Thanks Guys
I wasnt sure where to post this so sorry if in the wrong subforum
I currently have a 96 SE...I have the stock honeycomb 16in wheels and all stock suspension and whatever shocks/struts/coils it came with etc...
I want to purchase the MOMO GT-Rs 19in wheels and the vredestein sessanta tires in 225/35/19 and 235/35/19...
I just want to know if I should OR need to get new shocks/coils etc…What adjustments will I have to make to the suspension and stuff?
Thanks Guys
Wheels don't dicate suspension. You can change your wheels without any suspension consideration, provided you're not going overly large like getting 22's or whatever.
It will probably just look like it needs a drop moreso than it already does. If you have specific questions, PM me. I'm local and can perform your suspension upgrade, should you choose to go that route.
It will probably just look like it needs a drop moreso than it already does. If you have specific questions, PM me. I'm local and can perform your suspension upgrade, should you choose to go that route.
Agreed, unless you start doing something wild like a 3" drop, tuck, flared fenders, rolled fenders, flush mount, etc etc. At that time, you may consider a wheel/tire setup out of the standard plus size range.
Dr J
Dr J
It would be a lot better if you buy your springs as a set, instead of just upgrading your front suspension. That way you are much assured of the performance.
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If you want to do it right, I would personally wait to do it all together. Unless you're doing it yourself, it'll cost AAAAL to install shocks then go back and install springs later on. If nothing is broke wait it out. .02
I'm fairly new here but I'm trying to understand the answer to his original post. Minus the headlight aiming, if you have all new struts and new springs, but just wan't to install all the struts, and just the front springs what kind (major or minor) problems will I encounter. I have a 2k2 Max SE. Anyone with an answer can reply here or PM me. Thanks
you really don't want to mix types of springs. the rates are matched tot he rest of the set, so if you stick eibachs on the front and stock on the back, you're going to have some pretty fubard handling issues. aftermarket spring rates are roughly twice what the factory springs are.
I'm going to exaggerate here, but imagine your front end bouncing like a ricer and the rear end floating like a caddy. eek.
If you're mixking H&R springs and Eibach or something like that, then it's a bit different sicne they're both stiffer than factory. but I wouldn't mix OEM and aftermarket springs. just asking for a bad situation.
I'm going to exaggerate here, but imagine your front end bouncing like a ricer and the rear end floating like a caddy. eek.
If you're mixking H&R springs and Eibach or something like that, then it's a bit different sicne they're both stiffer than factory. but I wouldn't mix OEM and aftermarket springs. just asking for a bad situation.
you really don't want to mix types of springs. the rates are matched tot he rest of the set, so if you stick eibachs on the front and stock on the back, you're going to have some pretty fubard handling issues. aftermarket spring rates are roughly twice what the factory springs are.
I'm going to exaggerate here, but imagine your front end bouncing like a ricer and the rear end floating like a caddy. eek.
If you're mixking H&R springs and Eibach or something like that, then it's a bit different sicne they're both stiffer than factory. but I wouldn't mix OEM and aftermarket springs. just asking for a bad situation.
I'm going to exaggerate here, but imagine your front end bouncing like a ricer and the rear end floating like a caddy. eek.
If you're mixking H&R springs and Eibach or something like that, then it's a bit different sicne they're both stiffer than factory. but I wouldn't mix OEM and aftermarket springs. just asking for a bad situation.
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