'94-03 Rear Brake Upgrade option...
03-12-2012, 02:00 PM
#41
Just more info after some email convos with Brian at Fastbrakes.
The kit sold above was under the assumption that all calipers between 89-2003 were the same. In general, yes they are...except one difference. The pad sits lower/closer to the hub on the earlier models so it necessitates the bracket to sit closer to the hub.
Also...
So that leaves .15" less pad surface for the majority of 5th gen Maximas...or 3.81mm less. Crazy huh?
So if you look at the design in the pics, the pads on the '94-00 sit lower/closer to the hub. '00-03 sit higher up.
Other than the pad difference, the essential design of the caliper seems to be the same...the rotor is even the same diameter between 1990-2003 (10.93"), same part #. It is just the torque bracket that was changed/moved outward...probably to help with cooling?
The kit sold above was under the assumption that all calipers between 89-2003 were the same. In general, yes they are...except one difference. The pad sits lower/closer to the hub on the earlier models so it necessitates the bracket to sit closer to the hub.
Also...
Originally Posted by Per Hawk HPS info
Interestingly, the earlier years seem to have a larger height than '00-03.
*94-Oct'00 = 4.14"L x 1.84"H
*Nov'00-03 = 4.15"L x 1.69"H
*94-Oct'00 = 4.14"L x 1.84"H
*Nov'00-03 = 4.15"L x 1.69"H
So if you look at the design in the pics, the pads on the '94-00 sit lower/closer to the hub. '00-03 sit higher up.
Other than the pad difference, the essential design of the caliper seems to be the same...the rotor is even the same diameter between 1990-2003 (10.93"), same part #. It is just the torque bracket that was changed/moved outward...probably to help with cooling?
03-16-2012, 06:21 AM
#43
I was on stock front brakes when I first did this mod, so my driving impressions are more clearly geared to what the rear upgrade has accomplished. I can tell the rear brakes are biased over the fronts right now, which is inevitable running my stock fronts. I was able to lock up the rears pretty easily whereas in the past I only felt the fronts doing all the work. I know it’s only my ‘impression’ of how the brakes feel now but I can definitely tell the rears are much stronger.
03-17-2012, 02:12 PM
#44
Just got my rear BBK from Fastbrakes for my 02 Maxima!!
And since I'm powdercoating my calipers Black I decided to coat the brackets high gloss black!!!!
BEFORE:
AFTER:
I have a front BBK, rear BBK, 4 brand new calipers, all new brake pads, stainless steel brake lines and a fresh batch of braking fluid. Should have all this installed in about a couple weeks. With all that installed its going to be an EPIC difference in braking!!! I'll let you guys know!!!
And since I'm powdercoating my calipers Black I decided to coat the brackets high gloss black!!!!
BEFORE:
AFTER:
I have a front BBK, rear BBK, 4 brand new calipers, all new brake pads, stainless steel brake lines and a fresh batch of braking fluid. Should have all this installed in about a couple weeks. With all that installed its going to be an EPIC difference in braking!!! I'll let you guys know!!!
05-10-2012, 06:31 PM
#45
Finally got the rear brake kit from Fastbrakes the other week.
It took a while as some parts from the kit were out of stock, then Brian sent the dog bones & hardware but with the wrong set of rear rotors to me (slotted/xdrilled), finally last week I got the correct solid rotors and the torque members for this kit. I am looking to install this kit this weekend or next weekend, will see how it pans out.
It took a while as some parts from the kit were out of stock, then Brian sent the dog bones & hardware but with the wrong set of rear rotors to me (slotted/xdrilled), finally last week I got the correct solid rotors and the torque members for this kit. I am looking to install this kit this weekend or next weekend, will see how it pans out.
05-10-2012, 08:31 PM
#46
I went to the shop today and they had the rear rotors on from the fastbrake kit...here is a pic:
They still have to paint the hub part black. I'll post full pics once its all put together.
As promised pics of the Fastbrake Rear Brake kit:
They still have to paint the hub part black. I'll post full pics once its all put together.
As promised pics of the Fastbrake Rear Brake kit:
Last edited by NmexMAX; 04-03-2013 at 09:37 AM.
05-12-2012, 09:01 PM
#48
http://www.zeckhausen.com/how_to_pro...all_rotors.htm
Last edited by ranmas2004; 05-12-2012 at 09:16 PM.
06-08-2012, 10:28 AM
#50
back in topic, is there a difference even tho the caliper is not being upgraded? i guess not upgraded the caliper and just the rotors is a hard concept for me to under stand
06-08-2012, 10:38 AM
#51
I gave an initial impression when I first installed them...
I now have a 13" BBK up front and the braking feels very smooth now. I half expected the 13" fronts to result in an almost stock bias with the relocated rears but I was wrong. The bias is still improved over stock. Don't get me wrong, the fronts still do a lot of the work...but the braking feel is more comfortable/predictable now.
The 12.3" in the rear look a lot better under my 19s too.
--LOL
I was on stock front brakes when I first did this mod, so my driving impressions are more clearly geared to what the rear upgrade has accomplished. I can tell the rear brakes are biased over the fronts right now, which is inevitable running my stock fronts. I was able to lock up the rears pretty easily whereas in the past I only felt the fronts doing all the work. I know it’s only my ‘impression’ of how the brakes feel now but I can definitely tell the rears are much stronger.
The 12.3" in the rear look a lot better under my 19s too.
--LOL
06-08-2012, 07:43 PM
#52
Finally got the rear brake kit from Fastbrakes the other week.
It took a while as some parts from the kit were out of stock, then Brian sent the dog bones & hardware but with the wrong set of rear rotors to me (slotted/xdrilled), finally last week I got the correct solid rotors and the torque members for this kit. I am looking to install this kit this weekend or next weekend, will see how it pans out.
It took a while as some parts from the kit were out of stock, then Brian sent the dog bones & hardware but with the wrong set of rear rotors to me (slotted/xdrilled), finally last week I got the correct solid rotors and the torque members for this kit. I am looking to install this kit this weekend or next weekend, will see how it pans out.
Have any of you done a master cylinder upgrade? I'm going with the Z32 4 piston calipers and I am concerned about the increased pedal travel screwing up my heel and toe downshifting..I plan on tracking this thing so it is a concern.
*Quick update* After talking to Brian at Fastbrakes about upgrading the master cylinder, he stated that the stock master will work fine and does not need to be changed as the surface area of the stock Maxima piston is actually larger (by a small amount) than the total surface combined on the Z32 calipers, so I'm going ahead as planned with my stock one. Installing everything Sunday.
Last edited by back2basics; 07-27-2012 at 09:11 PM.
07-31-2012, 06:39 AM
#53
Well I installed the kit this weekend and was pretty happy with the results, if not the design of the dog bone. Check it out in my build thread, post #101.
07-31-2012, 07:16 AM
#54
Welcome to the club...lol.
I posted in that thread but when I installed mine I ended up flipping the dogbone around since it didn't seem like it fit right. No problems since.
Click for LARGER size
I posted in that thread but when I installed mine I ended up flipping the dogbone around since it didn't seem like it fit right. No problems since.
Click for LARGER size
08-01-2012, 09:48 AM
#55
Think of it like this. Try tightening a bolt real tight with a wrench that has a 3 inch long handle......then do the same with a wrench that has a 12 inch handle. You can put more torque on the bolt with the longer handle because you have more leverage from the longer handle of the wrench. Same with the brakes. Bigger rotors more leverage brakes have on the rotor to stop it.
04-02-2013, 09:15 PM
#56
Finally got around to trying to install this kit and ran into some problems.
First off the bolts that came with the kit are a joke, they are too short and they are grade 8.8 metric bolts. I had some grade 10.9 hardware in the garage and decided to use those bolts instead. Even though these are rear brakes I would strongly suggest using the higher grade bolts.
Secondly I had to flip the dogbone as other people have done to use the least amount of washers and to get the rotor centered to the middle of the brake caliper bracket. I only had to use one slim washer per bolt in-between the hub and dogbone.
Also I didn't like the hub to aluminum dogbone bolt setup, even though there is plenty of room for a longer bolt and nut combo. So I used a longer M10 x 1.5 x 35 bolt, flat washer, and serrated flange nut.
For the other bolt I used a M10 x 1.25 x 40 bolt with a flat and locking washer. The 30 mm bolts provided for this barely were threading into the caliper bracket so I went with a longer and stronger bolt for safety. I could of used a 35 mm bolt with a flat washer but I went a little longer and had to add the locking washer so the bolt thread wouldn't touch the rotor.
So after all this and I thought I was home free. Until the third problem. I've been using cheap Autozone calipers for years and sure enough the damn pistons are seized and won't retract back into the caliper housing. So I am left with this for tonight...
First off the bolts that came with the kit are a joke, they are too short and they are grade 8.8 metric bolts. I had some grade 10.9 hardware in the garage and decided to use those bolts instead. Even though these are rear brakes I would strongly suggest using the higher grade bolts.
Secondly I had to flip the dogbone as other people have done to use the least amount of washers and to get the rotor centered to the middle of the brake caliper bracket. I only had to use one slim washer per bolt in-between the hub and dogbone.
Also I didn't like the hub to aluminum dogbone bolt setup, even though there is plenty of room for a longer bolt and nut combo. So I used a longer M10 x 1.5 x 35 bolt, flat washer, and serrated flange nut.
For the other bolt I used a M10 x 1.25 x 40 bolt with a flat and locking washer. The 30 mm bolts provided for this barely were threading into the caliper bracket so I went with a longer and stronger bolt for safety. I could of used a 35 mm bolt with a flat washer but I went a little longer and had to add the locking washer so the bolt thread wouldn't touch the rotor.
So after all this and I thought I was home free. Until the third problem. I've been using cheap Autozone calipers for years and sure enough the damn pistons are seized and won't retract back into the caliper housing. So I am left with this for tonight...
04-03-2013, 06:15 AM
#57
I had that same problem with those GARBAGE bolts. I was actually driving down the street and the braking into a stop sign and the dam BOLT came out of the caliper flopped over. It was the bottom bracket bolt on the passenger side. So I could not drive forward and I had to drive home in reverse. Glad I was only 2 blocks from home and not on the freeway when this happened. I immediately went to a hardware store and upgraded ALL the bolts to that 10.9 and then sealed them with some loctite as well. Never anymore problems since then.
Last edited by ranmas2004; 04-03-2013 at 12:11 PM.
04-03-2013, 07:21 AM
#58
Ugh, I may as well chime in too.
(All this is copied from my build thread)
I too used longer bolts when I did the initial install, although I think they were just grade 8.8 bolts.
This is how far the bolt that came with the kit came through the bracket with four washers. Since it wasn't 100% threaded, we replaced it with a longer bolt.
Four washers:
This is what it looks like if you follow the FB directions, 4 spacers!
Not so good. Well we flipped them, and guess what? It's perfect!
Except it's not perfect.
Ever since we flipped the brackets I've been getting a terrible noise coming from my rear brakes at low speeds, and I had the e-brake seize up on me a few times this winter when it got real cold. These calipers are only a year or so old, and I replaced the e-brake lines about three years ago. I'm hoping all I need to do is service the calipers, but I just find it odd that the problem only showed up directly after I flipped the dog bones. As long as I'm the only one with the problem, I'll assume the problem is on my end and isn't related to flipping the bracket around.
(All this is copied from my build thread)
I too used longer bolts when I did the initial install, although I think they were just grade 8.8 bolts.
This is how far the bolt that came with the kit came through the bracket with four washers. Since it wasn't 100% threaded, we replaced it with a longer bolt.
Four washers:
This is what it looks like if you follow the FB directions, 4 spacers!
Not so good. Well we flipped them, and guess what? It's perfect!
Except it's not perfect.
Ever since we flipped the brackets I've been getting a terrible noise coming from my rear brakes at low speeds, and I had the e-brake seize up on me a few times this winter when it got real cold. These calipers are only a year or so old, and I replaced the e-brake lines about three years ago. I'm hoping all I need to do is service the calipers, but I just find it odd that the problem only showed up directly after I flipped the dog bones. As long as I'm the only one with the problem, I'll assume the problem is on my end and isn't related to flipping the bracket around.
04-03-2013, 08:08 AM
#59
Yeah I don't know if they improved this kit since last year, but I would use longer grade 10.9 bolts without a doubt. I've heard from several different sources that metric hardware for brakes and suspension should always be grade 10.9 or better.
On my car when the rotor was bolted to the hub and how it sat in-between in relation to the black caliper bracket; it wasn't even on both sides. If you look at the pics I had to use a slim washer between the caliper bracket and aluminum dog bones to make it almost even. There are four included in the kit and I used a digital caliper to measure the thickness of each one so they were matched evenly. If I had a brake rotor run out gauge I would check run out as well, I really don't trust the quality on this kit now.
After I replace the seized rear calipers for the 5th or 6th time on this car I will report back on any noise or caliper issues. Though today I have to replace the front wheel bearing on my truck so thats my main focus.
On my car when the rotor was bolted to the hub and how it sat in-between in relation to the black caliper bracket; it wasn't even on both sides. If you look at the pics I had to use a slim washer between the caliper bracket and aluminum dog bones to make it almost even. There are four included in the kit and I used a digital caliper to measure the thickness of each one so they were matched evenly. If I had a brake rotor run out gauge I would check run out as well, I really don't trust the quality on this kit now.
After I replace the seized rear calipers for the 5th or 6th time on this car I will report back on any noise or caliper issues. Though today I have to replace the front wheel bearing on my truck so thats my main focus.
04-03-2013, 09:32 AM
#60
Yeah I don't know if they improved this kit since last year, but I would use longer grade 10.9 bolts without a doubt. I've heard from several different sources that metric hardware for brakes and suspension should always be grade 10.9 or better.
On my car when the rotor was bolted to the hub and how it sat in-between in relation to the black caliper bracket; it wasn't even on both sides. If you look at the pics I had to use a slim washer between the caliper bracket and aluminum dog bones to make it almost even. There are four included in the kit and I used a digital caliper to measure the thickness of each one so they were matched evenly. If I had a brake rotor run out gauge I would check run out as well, I really don't trust the quality on this kit now.
After I replace the seized rear calipers for the 5th or 6th time on this car I will report back on any noise or caliper issues. Though today I have to replace the front wheel bearing on my truck so thats my main focus.
On my car when the rotor was bolted to the hub and how it sat in-between in relation to the black caliper bracket; it wasn't even on both sides. If you look at the pics I had to use a slim washer between the caliper bracket and aluminum dog bones to make it almost even. There are four included in the kit and I used a digital caliper to measure the thickness of each one so they were matched evenly. If I had a brake rotor run out gauge I would check run out as well, I really don't trust the quality on this kit now.
After I replace the seized rear calipers for the 5th or 6th time on this car I will report back on any noise or caliper issues. Though today I have to replace the front wheel bearing on my truck so thats my main focus.
And what is it with the rear calipers on these cars? I went through one or two sets of A1 Cardone calipers (utter garbage!!) before finding the WBR remans that seem to be of higher quality. Except these sure seem to be exhibiting symptoms of being seized now.....ugh.
04-03-2013, 12:10 PM
#62
When you get the longer stronger bolts the kit is fine. I've had no problems since, no vibration, nothing. Stopping power is noticable better with the front and rear brake kit that I have.
04-03-2013, 08:50 PM
#64
Hmm, I'll have to start looking around for a place that sells high quality bolts around me. Where do you pick yours up from?
And what is it with the rear calipers on these cars? I went through one or two sets of A1 Cardone calipers (utter garbage!!) before finding the WBR remans that seem to be of higher quality. Except these sure seem to be exhibiting symptoms of being seized now.....ugh.
And what is it with the rear calipers on these cars? I went through one or two sets of A1 Cardone calipers (utter garbage!!) before finding the WBR remans that seem to be of higher quality. Except these sure seem to be exhibiting symptoms of being seized now.....ugh.
Autozone rear calipers suck, I think Nissan's design sucks. I've only had the pistons retract once back into the caliper housing and that was when I had to replace the rear brake pads on my '98. Only reason they worked because the calipers were the original calipers that came with the car and the car only had 50 ~ 60K miles on it.
I am going to try the NAPA rear calipers and see how it goes. They at least come painted black. For $88 bucks each, I will see how they turn out over time.
04-03-2013, 08:52 PM
#65
But for some reason the black M10 x 1.25 x 30 mm bolts wouldn't thread into those caliper brackets. So I stopped messing around with the kit bolts and opted for longer 10.9 hardware.
04-05-2013, 10:32 PM
#66
Got done with the brake kit earlier today. Had one of the bracket holes strip out and I had to drill & tap so I could use a M12 x 1.25 x 40 mm bolt. 
Besides the crappy bracket everything else went together all right. No noises or squeaks once I bedded the pads, everything sounded just fine.
With the 12.6" 300ZX BBK up front, brake bias is shifted back a little bit and I like it. Reminds me of my stock '98 brakes when they were a bit touchy and stopped rather quickly.
Besides the crappy bracket everything else went together all right. No noises or squeaks once I bedded the pads, everything sounded just fine.
With the 12.6" 300ZX BBK up front, brake bias is shifted back a little bit and I like it. Reminds me of my stock '98 brakes when they were a bit touchy and stopped rather quickly.
04-07-2013, 06:13 PM
#67
Well I figured out my grinding problem. Turns out when we flipped the bracket around, we should have put the washer on the inside, rather than the outside of the caliper bracket.
Having the washer here (it was already moved when I took this pic) caused the rotor to rub against the caliper bracket:
And having it like this is perfect!
Having the washer here (it was already moved when I took this pic) caused the rotor to rub against the caliper bracket:
And having it like this is perfect!
07-02-2013, 07:46 AM
#71
Tome for rear brakes. Only thing I don't like is the requirement to use crossed drilled and slitted rotors. I'd rather have a blank, or just slotted since my fronts are only slotted, but ah well. Better than the wittle rotors on there now.
07-02-2013, 09:11 AM
#72
07-02-2013, 09:20 AM
#73
07-02-2013, 09:26 AM
#74
Mine are solid, Brian sent me drilled and slotted at first but the purchase order said solid rotors. So he sent me a set of solids and told me to the keep the other set as it wasn't worth to ship it back to him.
Oh this kit held up just fine with Carbotech XP-8 pads on a track day. Just make the changes people have mentioned in this thread and use grade 10.9 hardware.
Oh this kit held up just fine with Carbotech XP-8 pads on a track day. Just make the changes people have mentioned in this thread and use grade 10.9 hardware.
07-02-2013, 09:36 AM
#75
Sounds good, I appreciate the advice. Wont make any purchase until after the holiday, but this thread helped tons.
Also, coming from rider and you, makes me really trust the integrity of this kit. Damn car abusers you.
Also, coming from rider and you, makes me really trust the integrity of this kit. Damn car abusers you.
07-02-2013, 12:25 PM
#76
03-13-2014, 10:12 PM
#77
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Montreal, QC,Canada
Posts: 253
Question for those of you who have installed this kit.
The fastbrakes site has this kit listed (http://www.fastbrakes.com/product_p/...0rear%2012.htm) but mentions "Must use caliper brackets and pads from 1989-1994 Maxima".
My impression from your write-ups is that you used your existing brackets and pads- did I misinterpret? If you did use the 89-94 bracket, was it supplied with the kit (I assume no) or was Brian able to provide 89-94 brackets (pad holders) at additional cost?
Thanks
The fastbrakes site has this kit listed (http://www.fastbrakes.com/product_p/...0rear%2012.htm) but mentions "Must use caliper brackets and pads from 1989-1994 Maxima".
My impression from your write-ups is that you used your existing brackets and pads- did I misinterpret? If you did use the 89-94 bracket, was it supplied with the kit (I assume no) or was Brian able to provide 89-94 brackets (pad holders) at additional cost?
Thanks
03-14-2014, 03:48 AM
#78
You'll need to get the bracket on your own since he lists it on there now. He didn't know about the bracket difference till I brought it up.
NOTE: I did have to grind down the lip from the new bracket:
How? http://forums.maxima.org/8392779-post39.html
Why? http://forums.maxima.org/8397965-post41.html
NOTE: I did have to grind down the lip from the new bracket:
How? http://forums.maxima.org/8392779-post39.html
Why? http://forums.maxima.org/8397965-post41.html
03-14-2014, 08:45 AM
#79
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Montreal, QC,Canada
Posts: 253
Thanks for responding so quickly Jeff, and for your review of the kit. Now I understand the requirement- so you did use the earlier bracket for your 03.
Did you use 03 pads, or the correspondingly earlier pad also? Was the grinding down of a portion of the bracket to allow use of the 03 pad? Thanks for the further clarification, cheers.
Did you use 03 pads, or the correspondingly earlier pad also? Was the grinding down of a portion of the bracket to allow use of the 03 pad? Thanks for the further clarification, cheers.
03-14-2014, 09:59 AM
#80
Thanks for responding so quickly Jeff, and for your review of the kit. Now I understand the requirement- so you did use the earlier bracket for your 03.
Did you use 03 pads, or the correspondingly earlier pad also? Was the grinding down of a portion of the bracket to allow use of the 03 pad? Thanks for the further clarification, cheers.
Did you use 03 pads, or the correspondingly earlier pad also? Was the grinding down of a portion of the bracket to allow use of the 03 pad? Thanks for the further clarification, cheers.
I used stock '03 pads since I had some Hawk HPS pads already. So if you're using the earlier bracket then the same year pads, if used, will NOT require you to grind down the lip.
Sorry about that! Good luck, the written instructions suck! <---Just a forewarning