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Advantages of full 3.5 in 4th gen, as oppossed to 3.5 bottem with 3.0 heads?

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Old Feb 24, 2005 | 08:39 AM
  #41  
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No one said it couldn't be done. It's just i'll advised without specific preparations which no one here would be willing to do anyway.
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 09:00 AM
  #42  
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Who's to say it won't just bolt-on without issues?
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 09:14 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Stephen Max
But there are reasons why someone would not want to do a full 3.5 with ecu swap. For instance, I would like to keep my JWT ecu. Another reason is that boosted people may just want to put the better flowing 3.5 heads on a 3.0 bottom in order to lower compression for increased boost capability. Just saying do the full swap and be done with it doesn't address everyone's wants or needs.

All valid points, but this thread is in the All Motor section. And for all intents and purposes, for all motor, the complete VQ35 swap would probably be the best overall bet for instant success with minimal issues (convert to a cable TB instead of using the wireless crap if you want as well). The VQ35 is lighter, has more base HP/TQ, and is a reliable existing system (or maybe even swap in the 00-01 VQ30 instead of the 02+ VQ35). Building a specific hybrid for all motor purposes is much more difficult, most likely to be problematic unless you have the full capacity to an engine building/tuning/testing facility, and will cost more in the long and short run due to having to buy multiple engines...

Just my humble opinion.
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 09:14 AM
  #44  
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Who's to say it won't just bolt-on without issues?
It may just bolt on, but the issue is that now the quench area of the head extends outside of the cylinder diameter by a few millimeters. This may have a deleterious effect on detonation suppression that more than offsets the effect of lower compression.
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 09:22 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Stephen Max
It may just bolt on, but the issue is that now the quench area of the head extends outside of the cylinder diameter by a few millimeters. This may have a deleterious effect on detonation suppression that more than offsets the effect of lower compression.

There's no way you could run that setup (like your describing) for long. Think about what part would then be taking some of the detonation...
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 09:27 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Quicksilver
There's no way you could run that setup (like your describing) for long. Think about what part would then be taking some of the detonation...

Yes, some modification might have to be done if there is a detonation problem. But we don't know that till somebody does it, and why not talk about it instead of saying it can't be done or it's just easier to do this or that instead? Maybe I'm just used to this kind of thinking, having been an engineer for 25 years.
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 09:33 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Yes, some modification might have to be done if there is a detonation problem. But we don't know that till somebody does it, and why not talk about it instead of saying it can't be done or it's just easier to do this or that instead? Maybe I'm just used to this kind of thinking, having been an engineer for 25 years.

I thought we were just discussing bolting stuff up and letting it fly? I know anything can be made to work with modifications...and this particular little project might work fine for a while as is. All I'm saying is that you can't expect to have the engine continue to run well over the life of the vehicle by just bolting up heads like this...
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 10:34 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Quicksilver
I thought we were just discussing bolting stuff up and letting it fly? I know anything can be made to work with modifications...and this particular little project might work fine for a while as is. All I'm saying is that you can't expect to have the engine continue to run well over the life of the vehicle by just bolting up heads like this...
I'll agree to that. You make a good point. The best option if reliability and longevity is concerned is to use what Nissan has already engineered, tested and produced.

Still....., it's just fun to consider the possibilities is all.
Old Feb 24, 2005 | 11:55 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Stephen Max
I'll agree to that. You make a good point. The best option if reliability and longevity is concerned is to use what Nissan has already engineered, tested and produced.

Still....., it's just fun to consider the possibilities is all.

Hell, if I was just building a motor to build a motor and stick in another Nissan platform, then hell yeah I'd experiment (with the motor SR20 was talking about...VQ23 crank and all). Throw it into an old 240Z or something like that (maybe even a 240)...

This thread...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=377327&page=1

...post #38
Old Feb 25, 2005 | 06:10 AM
  #50  
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Sorry but I cant follow the post to well... anyhow, what is needed for the whole 3.5 swap. I know this has probably been answered already like in 10 post, but nothing has been clear to me... Exactly what will I need, a buddy told me its the 3.5 altima engine? This true? Ok if it is, then any mods I purchase for the engine when I swap it out, will be mods made for the 3.5 altima engine? What else will I need? Motor mounts?, ecu? sorry I'm the best knowledgable person about cars, so all info is helpful. Thanks
Old Feb 25, 2005 | 09:55 AM
  #51  
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thank yo guys that are backing me up on my opinion of going the route of a complete 3.5 swap. i mean it is fun experiminting with different things but you cant tell how long it will last because those parts were not made for each other. it exactly the smae thing as people here are trying to do with using a VI IM from a 2k-2k1 max. people say it flows be***r than 3.5 IM but how will it work on a 3.5 eninge is the question?

but one thing i would like to experiment with is using a IM from a 350z. Only if i could find one cheap.
Old Feb 25, 2005 | 10:08 AM
  #52  
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Well, experimenting is the only way to find out what works and what doesn't. This is the only way for us to become faster because it's not companies out there give a shyte about making parts for our cars to make things easier for us. We have very few people and small businesses will to do this for us but it's still not enough.

Don't knock the experimental stuff.
Old Feb 25, 2005 | 11:51 AM
  #53  
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i am not knocking anything at all. i am all for experrimenting but again depending with what kind of things you experiment with.

For example, when people started to experiment with installing a VI from a 2k-2k1 maxima onto a 4th gen maxima, i had nothing against it because those 2 engines have the same displacement (3.0 liters), so it made sense to experiment with that. Now there is a thread on how to make a VI from 2k-2k1 maxima work on a vq35, it still experimenting but the 2k-2k1 VI was not desinged for a engine with a bigger displacement (3.5 liters) and people be saying that it will flow better but how can that be? the vq35 IM was desinged for the vq35 and now you are trying to take somehting from a 3.0 engine and make it work on a 3.5 and say it will work better? I dont think that the engineers are that dumb to desing a IM for the vq35 that will flow less air then the 3.0 IM. And same goes with the internals of the engine. how do you know how they will work together? I know you guys are going to start saying by experimenting but why mess around with something like the vq35 which by all means is superior to both the 4th gen and the 2k-2k1 engines. That is my opinion. but a Moderator told me to keep my opinion to myself because some people here on the org are getting mad.
Old Feb 25, 2005 | 11:54 AM
  #54  
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Hey vasily did you get my PM?
Old Feb 25, 2005 | 12:51 PM
  #55  
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Vasily, this is the original question that started the thread:

I am still debating but I'm on the quest, if I stay hybrid (3.5 bottem with 3.0 head) I will be using the .70mm PF TB, '00 VI, JWT ECU (later on), and Cattman Headers, I do not want to run boost anytime in the near future or future... I can also go full 3.5 but am worried about CEL Lights, reliability, I know the CR will be lower than the hybrid but like I said I'm not looking for boost. So what other advantages other than a lower CR that would allow for boost would be present with going full 3.5 as oppossed to hybrid with above mentioned mods? Thanks!
This is how you responded:

just do the complete 3.5 swap with the ecu and call it a day.lol
How is that helpful in the least? At best it says nothing useful and comes across as condescending.
Old Feb 25, 2005 | 01:20 PM
  #56  
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vsamoylov,

I'm not sure how much bearing this has on your opinion, however do you know how many B17(1.7Liter) LS bottom-ends with B16A(16L) head motors Honda guys run for long periods with/without boost?

I don't see the displacement difference or miss-matching parts being a big deal, however the different bore sizes is a valid/real concern here.

Originally Posted by vsamoylov
i am not knocking anything at all. i am all for experrimenting but again depending with what kind of things you experiment with.

For example, when people started to experiment with installing a VI from a 2k-2k1 maxima onto a 4th gen maxima, i had nothing against it because those 2 engines have the same displacement (3.0 liters), so it made sense to experiment with that. Now there is a thread on how to make a VI from 2k-2k1 maxima work on a vq35, it still experimenting but the 2k-2k1 VI was not desinged for a engine with a bigger displacement (3.5 liters) and people be saying that it will flow better but how can that be? the vq35 IM was desinged for the vq35 and now you are trying to take somehting from a 3.0 engine and make it work on a 3.5 and say it will work better? I dont think that the engineers are that dumb to desing a IM for the vq35 that will flow less air then the 3.0 IM. And same goes with the internals of the engine. how do you know how they will work together? I know you guys are going to start saying by experimenting but why mess around with something like the vq35 which by all means is superior to both the 4th gen and the 2k-2k1 engines. That is my opinion. but a Moderator told me to keep my opinion to myself because some people here on the org are getting mad.
Old Feb 25, 2005 | 03:44 PM
  #57  
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Im baffled??????!! how do some people know for a fact the 3.5 IM flows better than the dek ?
I have measdured both side by side the dek is oval and 3.5 round but i would say that from the measures i took and from what i see the 3.5 head is NOT big enough for the dek lower port size that i have . I will have to open the 3.5 heads because width wise there lacking bad. the 3.5 intake ports look dinky compared to MY lower setup.
Old Feb 25, 2005 | 03:59 PM
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Chris,

Get some pics, because I'm baffled on what you're talking about.

studman has some 5.5gen VQ35 vs. 6th gen VQ35 LIM pictures on his website you might checkout:
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/intake.asp
Old Feb 25, 2005 | 04:00 PM
  #59  
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Also, here are some VQ30 vs. VQ35 teardown pics mostly from BigDogJonx:
http://www.poweredbynissan.com/images/VQ_Misc/
Old Feb 25, 2005 | 04:01 PM
  #60  
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and what is you lower setup? kinda hard to undersatnd what you said above.
Old Feb 25, 2005 | 04:10 PM
  #61  
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Very simple if you take a 3.5 lower gasket and put it on my dek lower it blocks alot of the dek flow.
Old Feb 25, 2005 | 04:13 PM
  #62  
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What about a 2004 Maxima IM?
Old Feb 25, 2005 | 10:30 PM
  #63  
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is it just me or the 3.0 head inlet looks bigger than the 3.5 head inlet
Old Feb 26, 2005 | 06:31 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I have to agree with vlasic on this one. IMO, a full VQ35 is the way to go.

This seem like a slightly bias opinion for some reason...
Old Feb 26, 2005 | 06:34 AM
  #65  
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the 3.0 ports are squished and oval and the 3.5 are more round. The 3.5 look a little bit bigger though.
Old Feb 26, 2005 | 06:52 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Charcoal95GXE
This seem like a slightly bias opinion for some reason...



And I actually try to be unbiased in discussions like this. I just have to go by what has been proven so far vs. what hasn't been proven.
Old Feb 26, 2005 | 01:46 PM
  #67  
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SR have you done any VQ35 swaps besides your own yet, ie customer cars?
Old Feb 26, 2005 | 02:45 PM
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What do you mean "his own"? He already has a 2k2. He doesn't have to go through the pain in the @ss that is swapping engines.

Why do I not have the money for a 2k2 6sp?
Old Feb 26, 2005 | 04:23 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by JClaw
What do you mean "his own"? He already has a 2k2. He doesn't have to go through the pain in the @ss that is swapping engines.

Why do I not have the money for a 2k2 6sp?
because it will be worth it in the end. i jsut sent you more info on the swap. check your email
Old Feb 26, 2005 | 04:42 PM
  #70  
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instead of emailing the info, why not just post it for everyone to see?
Old Feb 26, 2005 | 05:30 PM
  #71  
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I am not posting anything until I know for a fact that everything works fine.

I don't have any pics right now but I am taking my sweet time...
Old Feb 26, 2005 | 09:06 PM
  #72  
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He nuked an exhaust valve in his first engine with nitrous, so he did a swap in what appeared to be his own home garage.

Originally Posted by JClaw
What do you mean "his own"? He already has a 2k2. He doesn't have to go through the pain in the @ss that is swapping engines.

Why do I not have the money for a 2k2 6sp?
Old Feb 28, 2005 | 10:07 PM
  #73  
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Would you be better off using a 3.0 oil pan with the full 3.5? Looking at the 2k2 FSM, I dont see anywhere to mount the crank pos. sensor. onto the oil pan. (the one by the crankshaft pulley)
Old Mar 1, 2005 | 04:40 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Nismo3112
Would you be better off using a 3.0 oil pan with the full 3.5? Looking at the 2k2 FSM, I dont see anywhere to mount the crank pos. sensor. onto the oil pan. (the one by the crankshaft pulley)
That's what Japmaxse used on his hybrid motor.
Old Mar 11, 2005 | 12:51 PM
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I chose full 3.5... But at this point I have to find a way around the fuel rail and TPS. Anyone have a writeup on how to convert the 3.5 rail to a return system? The throttle body i'm attempting to convert it to cable, but what about the TPS? Or should I just get the PF TB?


JClaw: What are you doing for these items?
Old Mar 11, 2005 | 12:56 PM
  #76  
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I don't have to go through this. My swap is full, ECU/wiring - all of it from a 2002. Have fun.
Old Mar 11, 2005 | 01:21 PM
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You do have to convert the rail to a return style right?
Old Mar 11, 2005 | 01:31 PM
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I was referring the TB, sensors and all. I have not worked on the car since last week, where I put the VQ35 with the trans and headers in. Piece of cake compared to f*cking around with electronics. I have looked at the rail only briefly. Don't give me headaches before I start

Edit: Apparently, 2k2's have a regulator for this, saving me at least this headache, so I can concentrate on the ignition switch/immobilizer/ECU section. Thanks to Vasily for the info.
Old Mar 11, 2005 | 01:36 PM
  #79  
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Just buy/find a 2000-2001 rail.

As for the TPS, PF TB or DEK TB will work.

Originally Posted by Nismo3112
I chose full 3.5... But at this point I have to find a way around the fuel rail and TPS. Anyone have a writeup on how to convert the 3.5 rail to a return system? The throttle body i'm attempting to convert it to cable, but what about the TPS? Or should I just get the PF TB?


JClaw: What are you doing for these items?
Old Mar 11, 2005 | 01:47 PM
  #80  
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why convert? 2k2 maxima and up use a fuel regulator for each fuel rail ( 2 regulators cause 2 fuel rails). 4th gen has a return line back to the gas tank. what i did was just plug up the return line cause it is useless cause the fuel regulators do all the work so there is no fuel left over so no point in a return line. and for the TB, just use the 4th gen or 5th gen just like tilley did if you plan not to do a complete swap



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