Head talk
Head talk
Okay, suppose you had some spare heads lying around. What modifications would you do to them?
From what I can tell, there's no way to get larger valves in, the intake and exhaust valves are too close to each other.
About the only thing I can think of is to port them to match the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and to remove casting lines. The valve guide bosses are already pretty well recessed and don't look to impede flow much at all.
From what I can tell, there's no way to get larger valves in, the intake and exhaust valves are too close to each other.
About the only thing I can think of is to port them to match the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and to remove casting lines. The valve guide bosses are already pretty well recessed and don't look to impede flow much at all.
Smooth out the combustion chamber. Gasket matching is good to a point, but make sure the headers/manifolds are matched to them aswell (you dont want a 'wall' there). Same with the intake, but generally it is more of a problem with the exhaust side.
You've probably noticed you aren't going to have to do much to smooth everything out lol. The most time consuming part is just making sure everything lines up.
Swaintech is nice but $$$$$$
I just wish all the work netted more gains
You've probably noticed you aren't going to have to do much to smooth everything out lol. The most time consuming part is just making sure everything lines up.
Swaintech is nice but $$$$$$

I just wish all the work netted more gains
Okay, how about this. In the pictures below, you see how close the valves are to the cylinder walls? This results in shrouding - impeded flow along the backside of the valves. By backside I mean the side opposite the spark plug hole.

What about milling into the quench area behind the exhaust valves just enough to unshroud the exhaust valves, maybe about .050-.060"? That would improve flow out of the cylinder and also lower the compression a bit as well.
Or would it screw up detonation suppression of quenching flow in the combustion chamber?
Here's some pictures with the exhaust valve at maximum lift:


What about milling into the quench area behind the exhaust valves just enough to unshroud the exhaust valves, maybe about .050-.060"? That would improve flow out of the cylinder and also lower the compression a bit as well.
Or would it screw up detonation suppression of quenching flow in the combustion chamber?
Here's some pictures with the exhaust valve at maximum lift:

$190 for SwainTech coating vs. rebuild is cheaper.
If I went through all the work of pulling the heads, I'd go for broke, ie port/polish, SW coat heads/valves/ports, stuff with lighter valves and stiffer springs, and most of all cams.
If you don't put in cams, might as well not bother, RIGHT Stephen?
If I went through all the work of pulling the heads, I'd go for broke, ie port/polish, SW coat heads/valves/ports, stuff with lighter valves and stiffer springs, and most of all cams.
If you don't put in cams, might as well not bother, RIGHT Stephen?

Originally Posted by MrGone
Swaintech is nice but $$$$$$ 

With boost, I think a coating is recommended and is a good idea. As for messing with the combustion chamber, anything more than very minor grinding, I think you would need to cc each chamber to insure all the bowls measure out to the same cc.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
$190 for SwainTech coating vs. rebuild is cheaper.
If I went through all the work of pulling the heads, I'd go for broke, ie port/polish, SW coat heads/valves/ports, stuff with lighter valves and stiffer springs, and most of all cams.
If you don't put in cams, might as well not bother, RIGHT Stephen?
If I went through all the work of pulling the heads, I'd go for broke, ie port/polish, SW coat heads/valves/ports, stuff with lighter valves and stiffer springs, and most of all cams.
If you don't put in cams, might as well not bother, RIGHT Stephen?

Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Okay, suppose you had some spare heads lying around. What modifications would you do to them?
From what I can tell, there's no way to get larger valves in, the intake and exhaust valves are too close to each other.
About the only thing I can think of is to port them to match the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and to remove casting lines. The valve guide bosses are already pretty well recessed and don't look to impede flow much at all.
From what I can tell, there's no way to get larger valves in, the intake and exhaust valves are too close to each other.
About the only thing I can think of is to port them to match the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and to remove casting lines. The valve guide bosses are already pretty well recessed and don't look to impede flow much at all.
You can go slightly larger valves. There are 1mm oversize valves availabe as we speak. It is tight, though. You're right about that...
How much improvement do you expect from that? It looks like there's enough room for flow there, if blocked the smallest bit. Anyone care to guesstimate what kind of help it would do to open it up a little bit in that tight spot?
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
$190 for SwainTech coating vs. rebuild is cheaper.
I dont remember enough about the effects of messing with quench area to really comment on it. I'll have to start researching it again
Originally Posted by Broaner
Those heads are in pristine condition. How did you clean them so well?
Originally Posted by kenji
How much improvement do you expect from that? It looks like there's enough room for flow there, if blocked the smallest bit. Anyone care to guesstimate what kind of help it would do to open it up a little bit in that tight spot?
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Okay, suppose you had some spare heads lying around. What modifications would you do to them?
From what I can tell, there's no way to get larger valves in, the intake and exhaust valves are too close to each other.
About the only thing I can think of is to port them to match the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and to remove casting lines. The valve guide bosses are already pretty well recessed and don't look to impede flow much at all.
From what I can tell, there's no way to get larger valves in, the intake and exhaust valves are too close to each other.
About the only thing I can think of is to port them to match the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and to remove casting lines. The valve guide bosses are already pretty well recessed and don't look to impede flow much at all.
Sam
Stephen,
You might want to reread Corky Bells' Maximum Boost. He definitely warns about messing with the CC area and changing the squish area around the perimeter of the CC.
IIRC, he states that OEMs design the piston face/CC to force the combustion front towards the center to ward off detonation and if you mess with that, you're more likely to cause detonation.
I'd leave good enough alone and just clean up the ports, then Swain Tech coat them.
You might want to reread Corky Bells' Maximum Boost. He definitely warns about messing with the CC area and changing the squish area around the perimeter of the CC.
IIRC, he states that OEMs design the piston face/CC to force the combustion front towards the center to ward off detonation and if you mess with that, you're more likely to cause detonation.
I'd leave good enough alone and just clean up the ports, then Swain Tech coat them.
Originally Posted by spanishrice
are those larger valves? looks purty anyway
I've never seen valves that dished before. Is that to lighten them up, or maybe lower compression ratio a few tenths perhaps?
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Any progress Stephen...what's the plan man?
I'm waiting on some VQ30 cams so I can figure out what dimensions to make the spacer rings for the VQ35 cams. I also need a set of cam timing gears so I can drill new dowel holes for the intake cams. I thought I had a set coming from an org member but nothing's showed up yet.
i have a set of port and polished heads that were originally for a turbo max. they ended up in my hands due to a non paying customer and a shop that we would hang out at before. i can take pictures tonight so you guys can take a look at the port job im not sure if it will be worht it to install anymore.
one problem is the heads did not have the the first cam bridge. and they cannot be order alone. plus it does not have a valve train in it. sooooo im not sure if it would be worth its weight in gold. i ve been sitting on the heads for the past year or so.
one problem is the heads did not have the the first cam bridge. and they cannot be order alone. plus it does not have a valve train in it. sooooo im not sure if it would be worth its weight in gold. i ve been sitting on the heads for the past year or so.
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