My Vq35 5spd works perfectly fine with a 3.0 auto ecu, just not at its full potential.

 

oooooo $hit then i am screwed. 3.5L+SC at 12psi= 10 minutes of tranny life

 

the block is taller but the mountings are the same. They needed more deck height to stroke the engine.

Mike

 

The 'Deck Height' would still be the same at Zero, however the VQ40 has a taller 'Block Height'.

Deck height is the measurment from the top of the piston at TDC to the top of the deck.

Block height is the measurment from the crankshaft centerline to the top of the deck.

 

Awe man dont tell me that. I may have to change my plans for my car.

 

The vq40de is a complety different engine.. I had a 3.5 and a 4.0 next to each other.. and well the bell housing is different, the block height is different, and the length is different.. so it would take a massive amount of adpters to make it work.. but anything can be done just how much do you want to spend?

 

Do you have any pictures to post of the VQ40? I would like to see what your describing

 

It depends how many miles on the transmission. I had 123k on the auto teared up the gears on first run. I later did the 4thgen 5spd conversion teared that up too it had 45k rebuild. Then I put the second 5spd with 55k and tore up 2nd on a 75 dry shot.vs. SC Fbody I won the first race then blew on the second race. I see Tilley and others with the 5thgen tranny. It has stronger sycrhos and I haven't heard anything bad from them at all. Tilley's running 13's with his 2k lsd 5spd.

 

does anyone inow id I can use a manifold from an 04 murano on my 98 3.5 swap?

 

What kind of manifold... exhaust, intake.. ?

 

Believe it or not, some people have legitimate reasons for wanting an automatic that have nothing to do with them being "too lazy to shift" or some other excuse.

My left leg is injured and I cannot work a clutch.

 

I've seen quite a few on eBay. Anyone know if any are reliable?

 

When I ask questions about doing a 3.5L swap, I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel here (given that there are other threads that deal with the subject). However, it seems like I find a spoke here, and a tim there, and a bold somewhere else.

In other words, I have yet to find a step-by-step guide to doing a VQ35 with or without tranny into a 4th Gen -- one that covers all the bases.

Am I right??

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=430880

right there, it doesn't include every little tiny detail, but if you are attempting teh swap, you should be able to fill in between the lines. Plus, reading the swap threads will give you alot more info about it, especially the first threads by tilley, nismo3112 and jclaw, those have tons of info

 

Now i havent seen to many but i'm a boost guy love it want it. But i havent scene to many 4th gens w/ the swap and boost is it worth it or is it better to just keep the vq30 and than boost? I fairly new to the forum and am attempting to learn about the motors before i make my final decision

 

If you go boost on a 3.0, 3.5 or (3.2) no mater what, it's going to be fast.
All depends on how creative you want your project to be and how much money you have to spend.

 

There are two guys with a 3.5 and boost. Actually 3, but I am not sure about Chris'max's situation as to whether the car is running 100%.

 

The bare bones physical swap is not much more different then if you were just replacing your engine with the same type cause you blew it.

The changes are the throttle body, swapping the sensors from the 3.0 to the 3.5, swapping the timing case, teeing your fuel line, adapting the 3.5 injector harnesses, and using adapters to utilize the 3.5 cams

To break it down: (This all assumes you are keeping your ECU)

The 3.5 throttle body is Drive-by-wire/E-Gas/Electronic versus our 3.0 Drive-by-cable/spring/cable/traditional method so you have to convert the 3.5 to our traditional version or just buy an 01 Pathfinder TB/

The 3.5 sensors have different readings/outputs/whatevers (to be honest I don't know the specifics), but our 3.0 sensors should fit perfectly fine and do what we need. I am not sure even which sensors need to be swapped. Can a pro step in and list them? I am guessing ignition stuff, but to be honest I have no clue.

The timing cases need to be swapped from the 3.0 engine to the 3.5 because the 3.5 is CVTC (Don't need that mess). Currently we have not figured out how to control VTC with the combination of a 3.0 ECU and E-Manage Ultimate. Only problem with fitting the 3.0 Timing case is that a hole needs to be slightly bored out on each side of the case (See the FAQ for more detail).

The fuel line needs to be Tee'd off because it needs to "simulate" a returnless fuel rail unlike our current return style fuel rail. The line between the fuel filter and fuel rail is tee'd off with one side continuing the path to the fuel rail and the other with a $50-$150 Fuel Pressure Regulator set at 53 PSI (I think ... if not then 51 PSI) and continuing to the return feed of the gas tank.

The 3.5 injector harnesses need to be used to use ... *drum roll* ... 3.5 injectors. I am not sure how this is done, but I am GUESSING it is plug-and-play. If not then happy soldering.

Lastly, you need to purchase cam adapters from Tilley ($100 shipped I think ... PM him for more details) to utilize the 3.5 cams (already in the engine BTW ... just a note to the noobs). Why do we need these if it is already the 3.5 engine? Because the changing of the timing cases (I think). Something about the distance between the cams, sensors, and timing case. I am not sure about the details, but hey it is how it is. I think you just snap the adaptors on the end of the intake cams for sure (not sure about exhaust cams). Let the professionals step in and go in more detail here.


This sounds like a lot, but in the end if you read it 100 times it really isn't. All of this info is not shamelessly ripped from the 3.5 FAQ, but most the knowledge in here comes from and is available from threads in the stickies and the FAQ. Credit to all the pioneers, geniouses, and people with the 3.5 (not me). Please note that there are a few minor/implied steps that are not included in here and are in the FAQ in black and white (such as RPM switch to control VI, messing with the oil pans/CPS stuff, re-mounting the IACV, and messing with the ignition coils). Make sure you use the 3.0 Exhaust manifold versus the 3.5. The 3.5 exhaust manifold has built-in pre-cats which are highly restrictive. For us stock people, we already have pre-cats in our Y-pipe and don't need more. This is assuming that you do not have aftermarket headers.


On a side note, I highly suggest you invest in a Valve-Body upgrade for your auto transmission or you will end up like the many others (unusable transmissions). Good luck and enjoy.