That timing ring is what the VQ30s use for the Crank Position Sensor(CPS) pickup on the front VQ30 oil pan. VQ35s use the cam sensor instead of the crank pulley sensor.

So, you either...

A)Use the VQ30 oil pan and crank pulley/VQ30 timing ring.
OR
B)Figure out how to weld the VQ30 CPS sensor to the VQ35 oil pan and you still use the crank pulley/VQ30 timing ring.

I'd choose A).

 

Because on the rear covers, the holes on the 3.5 cover are shifted about 1/4 inch to the right, but are the same diameter. Thats why the holes on the 3.0 cover need to be reamed.

 

IC...said the blind dork.

 

You can bolt the 3.0 crank sensor to the 3.5 oil pan. But I am using the 3.0 oil pan.

 

This forum is becoming AIM. Lightning quick responses lol.

 

Why?...........

 

The 3.5 pan has an oil cooler thing on it by where the oil filter goes. Less stuff to worrry about. Japmax and Tilley reused the 3.0 pan also.

 

As in an oil cooler input/output nipple or port or something?

 

Is this what you are referencing?

 

If so, looks like that supplies the "chain tensioner" and "timing chain oil jet" besides the main oil gallery per the FSM.

 

^^yeah that is the thing i'm referring to. A hose connects to the oil cooler and goes to the thermostat housing. I don't think that is a necessary component.

 

Can you post the same picture, but of the 3.5 timing chain so everyone understands the difference? My scanner's been dead for a while.

 

this stuff is on rob's(tilley) car.

 

If I were able to perfectly replicate the little bumps on the 3.0 gear perfectly but have them on the 3.5 cam gear, and then drill a hole in the 3.5 timing cover to place the cam sensor in front of it, would it work?

What do you guys think?

 

one thing is thou the 3.5 sprockets are totally diff and arent even the same size

 

You would be better off using the 3.0 sprockets and chains.

 

I'll have to drill the cams then, and I would have no idea where to start

Not to mention not being able to sell my 3.0.

 

Use the 3.0 stuff have tilley drill them for you

 

How much does he charge? And how long would it take to remove the cams from the engine?

Does he have to drill all 4 or just two? (Exhaust or intake cams?)

And how much are those spacers?

 

nismo3112 actually is having tilley do his, so he could answer you . Or just call robs shop and ask.

 

Just the intake cams have to be drilled. Its a pain in the ****, you remove the oil pan, front timing cover, timing chains, cam sprockets, rear timing chain, valve covers, and then you see the cams.

Tilley charged me 50 to drill the holes and 80 for the JWT spacers.

 

I know where the cams are/how to get to them, but how complicated is removing them?

Also, did you send the cams through mail? Any special precautions to take for that?

 

It took about 45 min to get to my cams.

I shipped the cams through USPS. Just wrap them up nicely, make sure they have alot of cushion.

 

45 minutes eh? And how long to remove the upper Intake manifold, timing chain, gears and both valve covers?

I already have the timing cover off on both the VQ30 and VQ35 (Exactly like in your above pictures). However, both timing chains are still on.

One last thing, do you have to drill all 4 cams or just two of them?

 

In 45 min, I went from having a full engine on the engine stand, to having the intake cams in my hand. The chains, you loosen the tensioners and they come off. The hardest part was the bolts that hold the cam sprockets onto the cams. I had to have a friend help me on that one.

Just the 2 intake cams have to be drilled. All of the cams need the JWT spacers.

 

Wow thanks I didn't think it would be so short. I've never taken cams out before. For me it's been pretty much taking engine out/put it back in, that sort of stuff. It would be my first actual work inside an engine.

 

One last thing: Do I have to make sure of the position of the cams when I remove them and when I reinstall them? Do they both have to be in the same position, or the same position they were individually when I took them out?

 

the dowel pins on the exhaust cams will face 10 and 2 o'clock when the engine is at TDC. After your intake cams are modified, they will also point 10 and 2 oclock. The FSM shows you nicely how to line up the cams and chains. Not all that difficult, but I pray to god that I do not mis-align anything.

 

Will it be obvious which hole is good for the 3.0 timing chain and which one is good for the 3.5 timing chain? If what you say is true, it won't be possible to "mis-align" them.

Which FSM are you talking about? 1995 or 2002?

 

the 95 FSM. There are paint marks on the chains at where you need to line them up at.

 

Ok thanks Nismo. Hope everything goes fine for you. I'm getting eager to hear that VQ35 running, I'm used to the sound of a 98 HP Ford Tempo 2.3L by now

 

LOL. I'm also driving around a Ford for the time being. A Windstar to be exact.

 

I'll race your @ss then

 

Why drill the cams? It seems like it would be vastly easier to drill the timing sprockets instead.

 

^^ That is what I had in mind.. But I just sent them off to Tilley to have him do em.

 

Perhaps it's because the cam position sensor senses the dowel pin rather than the bumps on the timing sprocket? Just guessing here.

 

No the cam sensor read the bumps on the gears, the sensor is placed directly in front of the bumps. I'm not sure I trust myself to drill the gears though.

 

I think Stephen Max is right...that would be much much simpler.

Maybe Tilley just didn't think of it?

 

The big timing sprocket that goes on top of the intake gears would have to be drilled also. But I wouldn't be comfortable eyeballing the right cam position and drilling the sprockets. me=pu$$y

 

I'm also a big pus$y, so I sent my cams to Tilley today. 50 bucks but at least I'm sure it's gonna work and I'm not gonna screw the parts up.