95BLKMAX's DYNO - Something REALLY wrong......
95BLKMAX's DYNO - Something REALLY wrong......
Hey, I posted this in teh dyno discussion but figured i'd post it here too since not alot of people visit the dyno forums, anyways heres teh graph...
1995 Maxima SE 5SPD

Mods:
-Hacked Air Box
-P&P Intake Manifolds
-Warpspeed Y-pipe
-Gutted Cat
-Motostorm UDP
-New OEM Knock Sensor
-New Left Bank o2 Sensor
Something is really wrong with the AFR, I dont see why it would be that off with the mods listed, the fuel system is still intact/stock....
This is 95BLKMAX's dyno, im sure he'll chime in in a few.
1995 Maxima SE 5SPD

Mods:
-Hacked Air Box
-P&P Intake Manifolds
-Warpspeed Y-pipe
-Gutted Cat
-Motostorm UDP
-New OEM Knock Sensor
-New Left Bank o2 Sensor
Something is really wrong with the AFR, I dont see why it would be that off with the mods listed, the fuel system is still intact/stock....
This is 95BLKMAX's dyno, im sure he'll chime in in a few.
Hey btw, this was a 4th gear pull, air temp in the shop was about 90*F
EDIT= After a long talk, E55AMG suggested it might be a vaccum leak on the intake manifold (I did reuse the old metal gaskets that go between the heads and LIM when I P&P'ed the IMs), and there was a vaccum leak sound for about 3 days after putting everything back together, but THE NOISE went away afterwards, the leak mght still excist however.
The low power (for the mods) doesn't concern me much. I'm more concerned of what may be causing my a/f to be VERY lean then VERY rich
. Since I think that's the primary cause of my low power anyways. Any ideas are welcomed, thank you
EDIT= After a long talk, E55AMG suggested it might be a vaccum leak on the intake manifold (I did reuse the old metal gaskets that go between the heads and LIM when I P&P'ed the IMs), and there was a vaccum leak sound for about 3 days after putting everything back together, but THE NOISE went away afterwards, the leak mght still excist however.
The low power (for the mods) doesn't concern me much. I'm more concerned of what may be causing my a/f to be VERY lean then VERY rich
. Since I think that's the primary cause of my low power anyways. Any ideas are welcomed, thank you
Originally Posted by spanishrice
Thats pretty hard to do, the lower you can do, but the upper is almost impossiable.
The car has 118,8xx miles
EDIT= I have Z32 TT wheels, the fronts are 16x7.5" and weigh 16.0 lbs (the rears are 16x8" but they dont matter to this) and I'm running BFG G-Force P225/50ZR-16s on them
Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
Hey btw, this was a 4th gear pull, air temp in the shop was about 90*F
EDIT= After a long talk, E55AMG suggested it might be a vaccum leak on the intake manifold (I did reuse the old metal gaskets that go between the heads and LIM when I P&P'ed the IMs), and there was a vaccum leak sound for about 3 days after putting everything back together, but THE NOISE went away afterwards, the leak mght still excist however.
The low power (for the mods) doesn't concern me much. I'm more concerned of what may be causing my a/f to be VERY lean then VERY rich
. Since I think that's the primary cause of my low power anyways. Any ideas are welcomed, thank you
EDIT= After a long talk, E55AMG suggested it might be a vaccum leak on the intake manifold (I did reuse the old metal gaskets that go between the heads and LIM when I P&P'ed the IMs), and there was a vaccum leak sound for about 3 days after putting everything back together, but THE NOISE went away afterwards, the leak mght still excist however.
The low power (for the mods) doesn't concern me much. I'm more concerned of what may be causing my a/f to be VERY lean then VERY rich
. Since I think that's the primary cause of my low power anyways. Any ideas are welcomed, thank youDo you have a crankcase breather filter?
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
The reason it's lean is because your at 2000 rpms, the WOT map doesnt start till about 3000-3500.
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
Do you have a crankcase breather filter?
Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
no sir, runing the PCV (new) valve on the rear VC and the hose that goes to the resonator box from the front VC, no breather
Perfect.
The lean condition still should be related to unmetered air. Do you have any good pictures of your setup?
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
Perfect.
The lean condition still should be related to unmetered air. Do you have any good pictures of your setup?
The lean condition still should be related to unmetered air. Do you have any good pictures of your setup?

[img=http://img358.imageshack.us/img358/9559/myenginebay8aw.th.jpg]
That's the only recent pic I have of my engine bay
In the dyno forum, i'm quoting Kevlo911 with=
This might sound stupid, but how are his grounds? I dont like that dip in the power and it might be electrical. Fab up a homemade ground kit and see how the car feels. I know it wont make up for all the power but it might be something you wanna try.
That dip in power might just be electrical, my AC/Alt belt has been squeeking lately on launch with the AC on, I've just been too tired from work and school to tighten it (I checked and yes it is a little loose). I'm actually going to make a grounding kit with a cousin later this month, so we'll see.
This might sound stupid, but how are his grounds? I dont like that dip in the power and it might be electrical. Fab up a homemade ground kit and see how the car feels. I know it wont make up for all the power but it might be something you wanna try.
That dip in power might just be electrical, my AC/Alt belt has been squeeking lately on launch with the AC on, I've just been too tired from work and school to tighten it (I checked and yes it is a little loose). I'm actually going to make a grounding kit with a cousin later this month, so we'll see.
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
Everything looks fine. What exactly did you do to the airbox?
EDIT= There, on his 1st picture in that page, that's what I did to my airbox
http://maxima.cardomain.com/ride/370660/7
Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
OK, I removed the stock snorkle crap to the airbox, and I cut a triangular hole on the side that faces the driver-side fender.
That is part of it. The stock flow pattern across the MAF sensor has possibly been disrupted, this is a VERY common issue in 2k2s. I would still search for unmetered air leaks and give the ECU a little more time to adjust it's open loop settings. But even if you do find something wrong you will still need to tune that A/F via a piggyback.
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
That is part of it. The stock flow pattern across the MAF sensor has possibly been disrupted, this is a VERY common issue in 2k2s. I would still search for unmetered air leaks and give the ECU a little more time to adjust it's open loop settings. But even if you do find something wrong you will still need to tune that A/F via a piggyback.
Originally Posted by s0ber
Interesting? Would a aftermarket intake cause the same interference?
Perhaps. I know they do on 2k2s. Especially at 5200 rpm.
But don't get me wrong. I am not saying that IS the problem here, I am just saying that based on my experience I see it as a potential culprit.
Maybe porting the manifolds disrupted the airflow somewhat. Ideally each runner would have been flow-tested to make sure the airflow was laminar and consistant to all cylinders. This was a hack-job relatively speaking. Just a thought.
Edit: Just thought about something. The WOT maps only depend on 2 inputs, MAF voltage and engine speed (CPS-POS). Perhaps the MAF is reading X amount of air, but since the airflow might be turbulant AFTER the MAF, the airflow reading isn't accurate. Make sense?
Edit: Just thought about something. The WOT maps only depend on 2 inputs, MAF voltage and engine speed (CPS-POS). Perhaps the MAF is reading X amount of air, but since the airflow might be turbulant AFTER the MAF, the airflow reading isn't accurate. Make sense?
Originally Posted by nismology
Maybe porting the manifolds disrupted the airflow somewhat. Ideally each runner would have been flow-tested to make sure the airflow was laminar and consistant to all cylinders. This was a hack-job relatively speaking. Just a thought.
You are going in generally the right direction but I kinda doubt that he removed enough material for that to make a difference. Having to port match a Nissan product is rare and even when it can be done there is little to do. And they usually don't flow test production parts. Perhaps one in every thousand or so may get inspected.
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
You are going in generally the right direction but I kinda doubt that he removed enough material for that to make a difference. Having to port match a Nissan product is rare and even when it can be done there is little to do. And they usually don't flow test production parts. Perhaps one in every thousand or so may get inspected.
Edit: Do you know if a bad rear 02/gutted catalytic well affect WOT air/fuel ratios in 4th gens?
Originally Posted by nismology
Maybe porting the manifolds disrupted the airflow somewhat. Ideally each runner would have been flow-tested to make sure the airflow was laminar and consistant to all cylinders. This was a hack-job relatively speaking. Just a thought.
I'm lucky enough to have a day off this Weds, so that day I'm going to replace those metal gaskets and I may go to Nissan for exoticcreations to do a diagnosis on it and to see if timing is being pulled/ all the sensors are in the right working parameters, etc...
Really appreciate the help people keep them coming, I wont mod again UNTIL the "problems" are fixed
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
You are going in generally the right direction but I kinda doubt that he removed enough material for that to make a difference. Having to port match a Nissan product is rare and even when it can be done there is little to do. And they usually don't flow test production parts. Perhaps one in every thousand or so may get inspected.

Update;
- As I removed the fuel rails I noticed two of the injector grommets (bet'n the injectors and the LIM) were crushed. I must have forced them in like an idiot when putting everything back together after the P&P. Got all 6 grommets brand new and made sure everything was seated correctly.
- Replaced the metal LIM-Heads gaskets
- Found something odd. The KS harness was completly disconnected from the KS, and the metal wire retainer was nowhere to be seen. s0ber as my witness, I DID put that retainer on correctly when we did my KS. So I cant explain how that happened. s0ber sugeested that we may have accidently tugged on the harness while moving around inside the engine bay when we did the clutch, which is possible. By guetto, yet effective means, the harness is permanently attached to the KS, so that wont be a problem anymore.
I did feel that there was less power at the bottom end, but i never suspected the KS was to blame, since its been 95 degrees plus here in Miami, I figured it was just the heat
Driving around;
What a difference. Launching from 2nd doesn't sputter the motor at all, it just goes. Powerband is much smoother and I FEEL harder pulling up top. The power increase wont be verified until the next dyno day at this same place. But by then I'd have a CAI, grounding kit, and possibly headers. I know I wont wait until after the next dyno day to install new mods
Thanks for all the help, I'll bring this thread back to life once I go back to the dyno
- As I removed the fuel rails I noticed two of the injector grommets (bet'n the injectors and the LIM) were crushed. I must have forced them in like an idiot when putting everything back together after the P&P. Got all 6 grommets brand new and made sure everything was seated correctly.
- Replaced the metal LIM-Heads gaskets
- Found something odd. The KS harness was completly disconnected from the KS, and the metal wire retainer was nowhere to be seen. s0ber as my witness, I DID put that retainer on correctly when we did my KS. So I cant explain how that happened. s0ber sugeested that we may have accidently tugged on the harness while moving around inside the engine bay when we did the clutch, which is possible. By guetto, yet effective means, the harness is permanently attached to the KS, so that wont be a problem anymore.
I did feel that there was less power at the bottom end, but i never suspected the KS was to blame, since its been 95 degrees plus here in Miami, I figured it was just the heat
Driving around;
What a difference. Launching from 2nd doesn't sputter the motor at all, it just goes. Powerband is much smoother and I FEEL harder pulling up top. The power increase wont be verified until the next dyno day at this same place. But by then I'd have a CAI, grounding kit, and possibly headers. I know I wont wait until after the next dyno day to install new mods
Thanks for all the help, I'll bring this thread back to life once I go back to the dyno
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