there's no question that manuals put more power to the wheels, but autos, esp with the VB mod shift faster. After a certain power level, autos, assuming gear ratios are the same, are faster.

I think you'll be fine with an auto and the 3.5.

 

That would be true if both the 5-speed and the auto had identical gearing, but fact is, the 5-speed's gearing is far more agressive and close ratio than the auto, allowing the engine to remain in its powerband much better. Mod for mod, same driver, same raceweight, same track, same weather, the 5-speed will outrun and outperform the auto any day of the week. The 4-speed auto doesn't hold anything to the 5-speed or 6-speed manual. The new 04+ 5-speed auto will probably fare considerably better.

The average driver shifts in about 0.2 seconds, so shifting speed really doesn't have a big influence.

 

there's no way a professional driver, much less an average driver can shift in 0.2sec. It's difficult to start and stop a stopwatch in 0.2sec.

There's no question that 5/6 spd will outrun the 4spd auto in almost all situations. If we're talking about 400whp in a max, it may be different due to faster gearshifts and the fact that 1st gear in the 5spd would be too aggressive for 400whp.

 

MardiGrasMax's tranny didn't seem to mind going 11.40@123 mph and eating up 400+whp and a 75 shot of juice. His first gear allowed him to cut 1.7 60' on big @ss 26" slicks. When first gear gets too short, you upsize the tires. On an auto, you downsize the tires for better gearing, which results in significantly worse traction. Been there done that. Had 23-inch slicks, and they sucked, not consistant at all. 24.5 or 26 is perfect for our cars' weight and combined with the 5-speed, they work great, combined with an auto they slow you down. I'd rather have super aggressive gearing and big tires. Best combo IMO. Otherwise, either it slows you down or you get no traction.

Plus, the 5-speed is so damn cheap to repair compared to the auto. Anyone with a ratchet can repair a 5-speed for cheap. I should know, I had never seen the insides of a transmission before, and it was a peice of cake to work with.

 

You wait until next spring I will change your mind.

 

I'm not saying autos can't overcome this, and the line gets narrower as the engines get torquier (VQ30 vs VQ35, for example), what I'm saying is identical cars, same driver, identical weight, identical engines, track, engine, weather, tires, wheels, etc. a 5-speed will be faster than a 4-speed auto. If you had the new A34 5-speed auto I would agree with you, and I wouldn't be surprised at all if you are the fastest N/A guy on the .org in 2006, but I will still be telling you your car would be faster with a 5-speed (Not to mention that the manual is something like 50 pounds less than the auto).

 

Actually I tried out the 5 speed auto and I don't think it would help at all because of the gearing. The 3rd gear if I remember correctly is really tall and negates any help the extra gear would give.

I agree with you if we are talking about 15, 14 and even 13 sec cars but when you get any quicker I think the auto will prove to be king, heavier or not. The biggest reason is the launch because even Mardi with all the power he has cannot outdo the lower HP auto in a 60' and I have yet to see a 5 or 6 speed with less than 350 HP run a 12.1 and I have done it with both the 3.0 and 3.5 auto.

There is a reason all the v8's at the strip are auto's but none of them are slower than 12 secs. Of course they all have pretty low gearing and hi stall converters but next year I am taking advantage of that too so will be interesting. When I get all that sorted out I will give it a shot of spray then it should get quick, may even have to up the tire size.

 

As far as the 60' I have to disagree. My best 60' is a 1.75 and I'm maybe putting down only 225whp/225wtq.

Boosted cars always seem to run slower times than NA cars with the same power. Take Hondas for example. It may only take 200whp to get an NA one in the 11s, but it takes well over 300whp to get a boosted one there.

IMO that's why we haven't seen a 350 HP maxima run low 12s.

A fair comparasion would be NA vs NA, and to date the fastest NA car is a 6-speed with a raceweight of 3150 lbs. And he "only" put down 263whp. 12.8 with a spinning 60' on ET streets.

Of course if you get a stall converter it changes everything. I would also look into the 4.08 final drive from 00-01 Altimas. I think the auto is the same.

 

You are one of 3 or 4 people that have put down a 1.7x 60' and no one else has done it with an auto so its not a feat easily achieved with a FWD. Just proves there is more to doing it than just having power and slicks.

There are other juiced Maxima's around and they aren't doing it either, actually I think only one other juiced car has even made it into the 12's. So they aren't doing it just like other cars aren't doing 1.7x 60's.

As soon as we see a few other cars putting down 260whp you will see more 12's, auto and 5/6 spd.

Hey that doesn't change anything, just sort of evens up the playing field a little thats all. Don't think I am changing the final, I'm happy with the stocker and the 22" slicks, may even have to up the tire size so I'm not selling any of my slicks until I do a bunch of testing.

 

So you're up for a friendly heads up at Sanair's CSCS next year?

 

Probably won't be able to handle the trip now without A/C.

 

Aw... never was a fan of A/C even when I had it, but cruise control is an absolute must.

 

Haven't got that either, unless I can weld a couple of inches onto the shaft. The P/S sucks anyway so won't miss that.

 

Power steering is for pussies, especially at 2600 lbs

 

I don't really care that my thread was hijacked but just to let every1 know it turns out the only problem is bent valves. My dad said he would rather replace the valves than swap a motor so I guess i'm doing that route. Its good and bad at the same time. Good in the fact that it'l only cost me 120 bux for new valves, bad in the fact that I won't get any more hp . O well, it will save me lots of money this way.

 

I have always wondered this ( so i am sorry for "jacking" this thread) but how do you change your car from power steering to manual? Because everyone has always said you need a new steering box and stuff but no one makes such a thing?

 

If the Maxima came with a manual box I probably would have gotten a new box. However since they don't I just removed all the P/S lines, pump etc and connected the hose FROM the steering box to the IN to the steering box. It appears to be not that hard to turn the wheels but I don't have the engine in yet so that could change. However I did run partl of last year with just the belt removed so it can't be any harder than that. Just really hard when stopped but on the highway its fine, actually I like it better.

 

I have heard that manual steering using a power box is much harder than a box meant for manual. I could think of 2 reasons, maybe the ratio is higher on a manual box(more turns of steering wheel), or maybe its because you have to push the hydrualic fluid around. would it really be that hard to find a manual box and weld it in there?

 

i am really starting to get the hankering to do this swap.

vq35+supercharger @12psi + hotshot headers+ 3" exhaust cuttout=

that would be quite a test for the ol auto. She has held strong so far

 

ya im thinking of going the 3.5 swap in my auto as well...hopefully she will hold up lol
So far i've just done a vb upgrade and I just ordered a high stall converter from edgeracing...hopefully i wont be disappointed

 

hey, let me know how that torque converter works out for you im looking for another mod and i dont want to do any work on the intake manifold just yet.

 

ya no problem..as soon as i get it installed...i ended up going with a stall of 2800

 

When will you be installing it?
I don't know of many people who buy these things for the auto maxs.

 

I already ordered it so I'm just waiting for it to arrive and then I'll install it as soon as possible. I tried to search for other threads related to after market converters but it seems you're right...either not many people are doing this or they just havent posted their thoughts on it.

 

I got mine a few weeks ago but not installed yet, will probably be april.

 

Just curious Jime, what kind of settings did you end up with ( stall speed, str)
and where did you pick yours up from and how much if you dont mind me asking? I ended up going with 2800 stall and close to 2.0 str and the converter came from edgeracingconverters.com from the mild street category.

 

Andre is getting lots of business I see. Mine is the same with a 3400 stall, I am not going to do much street driving so I elected for the highest stall I could get.

 

anybody have any problems with cattman headers 2nd gen with polyurethane mounts?

 

how do engine mounts have anything to do with headers? That's like saying "do interstate batteries have any problems with cattman headers?"

 

I would say his concern lies in the proximity that the headers are to the engine mounts and the effect of the radiant heat on the polyurethane.

It is not specific to Cattman headers. It would apply to any set of headers where the factory heat shields are removed.

I am going to be using this stuff to cover my mounts with

http://www.thermotec.com/products/full/13500/13500.html

and the tape to wrap the a/c lines with and anything else that is too close for my own comfort level.