Tilton 350Z Clutch/Flywheel installed
#1
Tilton 350Z Clutch/Flywheel installed
This thing is nothing but a novelty. It makes the car rev like a motorcycle but it is absolutely TERRIBLE for the street. I have had some nasty clutches before in my old SE-R but this thing takes the taco. Not one single person I talked to recommended this thing and now I see why.
It wasn't a plug & play operation either. I couldn't drill a new pilot hole in the flywheel to change the clock for the crank sensor because the flywheel is hardend chromoly steel. So I had to grind down the pilot dowel. I also had to re-notch the bellhousing so I could move the CPS. (The 350Z timing ring has a different offset.)
If you can get past the horrible chatter, noise, driveability it is pretty neat. You can't use full throttle in 1st gear and you almost can't use it in 2nd either. I now see why Nissan chose to use that obese dual mass flywheel.
This is the full street version by the way.
It wasn't a plug & play operation either. I couldn't drill a new pilot hole in the flywheel to change the clock for the crank sensor because the flywheel is hardend chromoly steel. So I had to grind down the pilot dowel. I also had to re-notch the bellhousing so I could move the CPS. (The 350Z timing ring has a different offset.)
If you can get past the horrible chatter, noise, driveability it is pretty neat. You can't use full throttle in 1st gear and you almost can't use it in 2nd either. I now see why Nissan chose to use that obese dual mass flywheel.
This is the full street version by the way.
#3
As I was telling Matt, I'm sad that the saga results into this, but I'm glad he did this before I got one. Now I guess it's time to look into other setups that are out, that will work as a happy medium. I've still got a long ways to go to be even remotely close to what Matt's done with his, but ideas and goals in circulation are always satisfying.
#4
I am now looking seriously at the ACT XACT Flywheel - Prolite.
They make one for the 350Z, which I now have proven can be made to work.
I don't want an aluminum flywheel that will warp on me.
They make one for the 350Z, which I now have proven can be made to work.
I don't want an aluminum flywheel that will warp on me.
#6
Originally Posted by JeffesonM
Do you expect this to lower your times?
Yes, that it certainly will do.
After driving it around it has gotten much better. I just need to solve the throwout problem now. Since I didn't have the Tilton specific bearing I used an OE bearing and it wasn't right for the application. If I just find a way to extend the slave cyl. pushrod it'll be fine. Most of the chatter has gone away now that I had to burn it a few times trying to leave stoplights.
#10
I don't need it now. I found something to fix that problem. Now I need to figure out how to get rid of the LOUD chatter when the clutch is pressed in. The discs are oscillating when the clutch is pressed in and sometimes it's so bad it won't allow it to go into gear.
#13
Tilton 'sploded
One day after I get the car back from the body shop (I think they burned it pretty good) the stupid clutch just lets go (Wednesday). Tommorrow I remove this carnage and put the stock clutch back in. I will try this project again after I round up replacement parts.
I only got to drive this thing for a whole two weeks before that Honda ran into me, the body shop had it for almost three months and I get to drive it for only one day.
One day after I get the car back from the body shop (I think they burned it pretty good) the stupid clutch just lets go (Wednesday). Tommorrow I remove this carnage and put the stock clutch back in. I will try this project again after I round up replacement parts.
I only got to drive this thing for a whole two weeks before that Honda ran into me, the body shop had it for almost three months and I get to drive it for only one day.
#15
Originally Posted by JeffesonM
what happened? I thought they were supposed to be pretty stout, no?
The stock clutch is actually stronger than the 'full street' Tilton. I realized this the first time I introduced it to my 'race mode' shifting technique. And apparently the issue I just had is common on Hondas, where the center spline coupling sheers free of the disc. I'll find out for sure tomorrow (today) when I remove this thing.
#16
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
The stock clutch is actually stronger than the 'full street' Tilton. I realized this the first time I introduced it to my 'race mode' shifting technique. And apparently the issue I just had is common on Hondas, where the center spline coupling sheers free of the disc. I'll find out for sure tomorrow (today) when I remove this thing.
#17
I also saw that problem on my boss's old formula atlantics. after more than 3 races on a disc, the rivets holding the center spline would shear off, causing the thing to self-destruct.. He sent the first couple back to Tilton and they replaced them under warranty, but after that he just replaced them every third race and never had an issue again.
#18
The stock clutch is now back in the car, and so is the HLSD (now in the A34 transmission, 4.133). The thing is easy to drive again and that Redline gear oil makes shifting easier than it was before, I am now sold on that stuff.
Something interesting I noticed about the 61 vs. 62 tooth ring gears is that they chose to use the exact same tooth pitch for the two different final drives. The 62 tooth ring has a larger diameter than the 61 tooth ring. This isn't how they used to do them as far as I know, at least for RWD applications.
So technically you could mix and match different ratios if you had a way to adjust the center distances between them.
Ratios availible;
61/16 = 3.812 A33B
62/15 = 4.133 A34, B15 ('03-'06 SE-R)
62/14 = 4.428 B15 ('02 SE-R)
I wish they would come out with a taller than 0.630 sixth gear.
Something interesting I noticed about the 61 vs. 62 tooth ring gears is that they chose to use the exact same tooth pitch for the two different final drives. The 62 tooth ring has a larger diameter than the 61 tooth ring. This isn't how they used to do them as far as I know, at least for RWD applications.
So technically you could mix and match different ratios if you had a way to adjust the center distances between them.
Ratios availible;
61/16 = 3.812 A33B
62/15 = 4.133 A34, B15 ('03-'06 SE-R)
62/14 = 4.428 B15 ('02 SE-R)
I wish they would come out with a taller than 0.630 sixth gear.
#19
I give you one thumb up for trying the Tilton and another for admitting that it sucked and posting the whole story. Most would have been too embarassed to tell the truth about the whole deal. I thought they were supposed to be the best though, maybe just for race applications, hmm.
allen
allen
#20
The Tilton saga isn't going to end here because I am not ready to throw in the towel. There will be more to come in the next few months. However logic and common sense tell me to keep the stock clutch in it when I drive to Maxxus, then work on the Titlon afterwards.
#22
Originally Posted by Glude
So does the HLSD make a significant difference in traction? It was an option for the 04s but was very hard to find. I wouldnt mind picking up one eventually if its not priced too bad.
I ordered this car with the HLSD, so this isn't a new install.
#23
SR20, I noticed that you said HLSD helps during cornering....what about straight line acceleration? Does it actually help gain traction when you drag race at the track?
Wow...didn't know 02 SE-R had a 4.4 final drive...wouldn't that be nice to have in our cars? Hehe....oh yeah, was the A34 transmission bolt on to the A33B engine?
Wow...didn't know 02 SE-R had a 4.4 final drive...wouldn't that be nice to have in our cars? Hehe....oh yeah, was the A34 transmission bolt on to the A33B engine?
#24
Originally Posted by steven88
what about straight line acceleration? Does it actually help gain traction when you drag race at the track?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=limited+slip
They seem to think it doesn't help that much for straight-line.
#26
Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
Sorry to hear about the Tilton, Matt.
I am interested to know the A34 6MT install details as well though.
I am interested to know the A34 6MT install details as well though.
There really are no more details to give. I've had this transmission in the car since 12/04, before I ran the 12.859. It's just a direct replacement with a lower final drive and supposedly a better (triple coned) 3rd gear synchronizer (vs. the A33B 6 speed).
#27
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
It's just a direct replacement with a lower final drive and supposedly a better (triple coned) 3rd gear synchronizer (vs. the A33B 6 speed).
#28
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Originally Posted by steven88
SR20, I noticed that you said HLSD helps during cornering....what about straight line acceleration? Does it actually help gain traction when you drag race at the track?
#29
Originally Posted by Hoooper
what ive noticed is that even my open diff/no traction control i leave two stripes. at the strip, the car drifts side to side in the water box which means both tires are spinning. even on super sticky ground, both tires seem to spin so i think that the open diff is pretty much the same effect for going straight.
#30
I wasn't able to do a proper burnout with the big slicks at the track without it. I can't speak for everyone, but my car does not always spin both tires when I need it to. So for me ,at least, it's needed. Many of the autotragic cars seem to do just fine without it.
#31
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Originally Posted by steven88
Yeah I read some threads where people sayin LSD on a maxima doesn't help for dragging....but I'm wondering if someone whos big on drag racing can step up and chime in
#34
Ive never draged with my current setup with out my Quaife ATB (just like the Helical), so I cant say for sure, but I think it is a good thing even on a drag car with slicks. from what I know the ATB trys to keep the torgue as evenly split as traction will allow. What I think this translates to is that when I launch and run the car rarely ever pulls from side to side, its straigt down the middle of the lane, no drama.
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