Ok guys . I blew my motor yesterday while dynoing and now i am entertaining the idea of the 3.5L swap. Now my problem is i want to do the swap since i am replacing motors anyways, but money and time are a factor as i am a college student and this is my daily driver.

Now i can get a 3.5 for $600 from a local guy and to make things easier i was wondering if it is possible to just use the 3.0 cams instead of dealing w/ redrilling and cam spacers? Also wouldn't this eliminate the need for enlarging the hole on the timming chain cover? This would help save on cost and help on down time so this is the route i would like to take. If this is possible then i will be swapping in the 3.5 and bolting up my SC to it

 

u still have to enlarge the hole on the timing cover.

You can use the 3.0 cams, however power would likely be decreased dramatically.

 

really? So it is the cams in the 3.5 that help so much. Also would this power loss only occur in the top end of the power band? If so i can easily make up for that

Also can u explain why you have to enlarge the hole still? Just trying to understand how all this works

 

You need to put the 3.0 timing equipment (inner and outter covers, all sprockets and water pump) on the 3.5 whether you use stock 3.0 cams, aftermarket cams, or stock VQ35 cams. The reason we all use VQ35 cams is that they are considerably more aggressive than stock VQ30 cams. It is worth it to get the 3.5 cams over the stockers, especially on a boosted engine where it will be much more efficient.

The 3.5 isn't just bigger than the 3.0, it has much better heads and cams all-around, and it's 35 pounds lighter at that. Also if you run the same timing you are running now on the 3.5, it's going to be much safer. I'd think the stock 1995-2001 ignition timing is perfect for a boosted 3.5, very conservative.

I know the 2001 cams have more lift than the 95-99, give me a minute to check on that...

 

cool thanks, i may be able to get my hands on a set of JWT 3.0 cams which would be really sweet.

 

According to SR20DEN:

VQ30DE (1995-1999)

Intake__Lift: 8.55mm -- Intake__Duration: 232º
Exhaust_Lift: 8.55mm -- Exhaust_Duration: 232º

Overlap: 6º
-------------------------------------
VQ30DE-K (2000-2001)

Intake__Lift: 8.55mm -- Intake__Duration: 224º
Exhaust_Lift: 9.0mm --- Exhaust_Duration: 232º

Overlap: 6º
-------------------------------------
VQ35DE (2002-2005) FWD

Intake__Lift: 9.5mm -- Intake__Duration: 238º
Exhaust_Lift: 9.5mm -- Exhaust_Duration: 240º

Overlap: 2º
-------------------------------------

So your 2000-2001 exhaust cams are more agressive than the 95-99 exhaust cams, but less than the 2002-2005. About halfway between the two.

So it's up to you to decide if it's worth it for you. If you can get the 3.0 JWT cams, use them. There will be no downtime that way.

 

Wouldn't the decrease in overlap w/ the vq35 cams also help since i am boosted?

 

That's what I think, but anything I'd say about this would be pure speculation. I'm just glad I already have them.

 

Just run the full VQ35 INCLUDING the heads and intake manifold w/VQ30 timing equipment IMO.

StephenMax or vasmoly or Tilley can make adapter plates that fit the DEK TB to the 2K2 IM, right?

 

what specifically blew in the engine do you know yet? or have an idea?

also what happened, did you lean out or run too much timing? oil temp? what was it?

 

Do you want him to use VQ35 heads and IM or VQ30? I would definitely say use the VQ35 especially since VQ30 heads would raise the CR.

 

VQ35...bad Engrish, so I edited it.

 

He might as well convert the 3.5 TB to cable since it bolts right up and matches the diameter of the intake manifold inlet perfectly.

 

I already have a PF tb if that makes a difference or makes it easier

 

That's the best case scenario. You'll need to get an adapter plate made though.

 

Edited for truth.
I still want those spacers + $.

 

no way b!tch, i am holding it hostage

 

you could just run the 3.0 cams for a while to get your car running and then put in the 3.5 cams once their done, but I'm sure that'd be alot harder with the engine in the car

 

Trust me, once the cams go in, you don't want to do it all over again ever. Ever.

 

Is that difficult? Do you lose cruise control? What about IACV?

 

VQ35 numbers are posted with the VTC in the off position.


The VTC on overlap would be 42º (57º with the Nismo VTC).

 

Does anyone have nismo cams or jwt cams in their 3.5 in a 4th gen? I wonder what the numbers are...

 

Tilley does, but he's turbo'd also and hasn't dyno'd.

 

Does anyone know if the JWT 3.0l exhaust cams will fitt in the 3.5L w/ a 3.0L w/ 3.0 timming equipment

 

Yes, only the intake cams are different lengths and require spacers/drilling.

 

Different lengths?

I thought the front bank of cams were longer..


Only the intake cams need to be drilled, but all 4 cams need to be fitted with spacers.

 

Huh?

I could be off, but IIRC the VTC pulleys are on both intake cams, so when you replace the VTC pulleys with the VQ30 sprockets, you must add spacers to keep the chain off the heads.

You either use the VQ35 exhaust sprockets or swap the VQ30 sprockets on, but either way, there isn't a VTC gap that needs a spacer.

I recieved TWO spacers from JWT, so let me know if they're wrong.

 

Then again, in this pic it appears the spacers are BOTH on one head.

 

To clarify: All 4 cams need a JWT spacer, but only the 2 intake cams need to be drilled. The 2 exhaust cam use a spacer, but no drilling.

 

Yeah, when I ordered my JWT spacers through Tilley, Tilley was only sent 2 also. So JWT again FTL! lol

The 3.5 exhaust sprocket won't work with 3.0 timing equipment. The chain teeth are way different.

 

Got it!

Damn it JWT...

 

So, back to Chris's question....

VQ30 JWT intake/exhaust cams fit withOUT spacers, yay/nay?

They don't need to be drilled, correct?

 

Under my understanding if you swap the entire VQ30 timing chain system then VQ30 cams (JWT or OEM) will go right in. The spacers and drilling is only needed when using VQ35 style cams (designed for the VTC) with VQ30 timing chain system. I could be mistaken though. Tilley or someone with hands on experience might have to chime in.

 

You are absolutely right. Use stock or aftermarket VQ30 cams and there is no drilling involved.

The reason most people shell out 130 bucks for the drilling and the spacers is that the stock VQ35 cams are free.