Want to get E-manage(old one, blue box) for NA
Want to get E-manage(old one, blue box) for NA
Now I know for sure it will work in my car. The only question I have is once it's tuned will it work in open loop only or closed loop, or both???
I plan to get the E-manage(blue) with pressure harness, ignition harness and injector harness.
I plan to get the E-manage(blue) with pressure harness, ignition harness and injector harness.
finally some answers!
Ok, I have been recomended the safc2 the most because at any rpm I chose it can change the fuel setting by the % I press the gas pedal. The only reason I'm asking this is because I want to tune it for fuel economy.
So far after dozens of fill ups it shows that I get 22.5mpg city and 32-33mpg freeway. I want to tune it so my city mpg will go up at least 2mpg. Dyno shop will do tune. The most important question is how will tuning of the low rpm affect startup?
I hear a lot of praise from the safc2, but some people don't like the e-manage. The blue, not the new one. I want to tune all my rpms, not just some of them. The safc2 only tunes 12 rpm points in 200 increments. How does the e-manage tune?
Ok, I have been recomended the safc2 the most because at any rpm I chose it can change the fuel setting by the % I press the gas pedal. The only reason I'm asking this is because I want to tune it for fuel economy.
So far after dozens of fill ups it shows that I get 22.5mpg city and 32-33mpg freeway. I want to tune it so my city mpg will go up at least 2mpg. Dyno shop will do tune. The most important question is how will tuning of the low rpm affect startup?
I hear a lot of praise from the safc2, but some people don't like the e-manage. The blue, not the new one. I want to tune all my rpms, not just some of them. The safc2 only tunes 12 rpm points in 200 increments. How does the e-manage tune?
Emanage tunes 500rpm increments but unlike the SAFC which has a "high throttle" and "low throttle" setting, it can tune basically any throttle position, or tune by boost pressure, MAF voltage, etc. Pressure sensor is useless for NA. Ignition harness is pretty much useless for NA as well since you can't advance timing with the blue on a maxima, only retard it, which you wouldn't want to do for an NA car.
I don't think the tuning you do at low RPM will affect startup at all, I don't know of anyone who has startup problems associated with the blue.
I don't think the tuning you do at low RPM will affect startup at all, I don't know of anyone who has startup problems associated with the blue.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Emanage tunes 500rpm increments but unlike the SAFC which has a "high throttle" and "low throttle" setting, it can tune basically any throttle position, or tune by boost pressure, MAF voltage, etc. Pressure sensor is useless for NA. Ignition harness is pretty much useless for NA as well since you can't advance timing with the blue on a maxima, only retard it, which you wouldn't want to do for an NA car.
I don't think the tuning you do at low RPM will affect startup at all, I don't know of anyone who has startup problems associated with the blue.
I don't think the tuning you do at low RPM will affect startup at all, I don't know of anyone who has startup problems associated with the blue.
You really need the emanage support tool to unlock all the features. The maps are 16 by 16, which means there are 16 RPM points on the x axis and 16 other points (throttle position, airflow, relative pressure, absolute pressure, whatever you define) on the y axis. Far more than the SAFC. In my opinion it is overkill for what you want to do.
The SAFC won't help you save gas either. Here's why: Say you install the SAFC and pull some fuel at lower rpms (remember you are actually altering the airflow signal so that the ECU thinks there is less air coming in, and therefore less fuel will be needed, the emanage works on the same principal). In closed loop the ECU will strive to maintain a 14.7 AFR. If you go leaner than that, the ECU will add fuel thereby negating the change you just made on the SAFC.
However, in open loop the ECU ignores the o2 sensor feedback and the alterations made will not be counteracted by the ECU. This should not be taken lightly, removing too much fuel can lead to engine damage and changes should be made only with verification of the actual AFR from a wideband or a dyno.
It seems to me you get great fuel economy anyway and it sounds like a piggy back won't do you much good.
The SAFC won't help you save gas either. Here's why: Say you install the SAFC and pull some fuel at lower rpms (remember you are actually altering the airflow signal so that the ECU thinks there is less air coming in, and therefore less fuel will be needed, the emanage works on the same principal). In closed loop the ECU will strive to maintain a 14.7 AFR. If you go leaner than that, the ECU will add fuel thereby negating the change you just made on the SAFC.
However, in open loop the ECU ignores the o2 sensor feedback and the alterations made will not be counteracted by the ECU. This should not be taken lightly, removing too much fuel can lead to engine damage and changes should be made only with verification of the actual AFR from a wideband or a dyno.
It seems to me you get great fuel economy anyway and it sounds like a piggy back won't do you much good.
Originally Posted by Brushedpewter
So what can I do to save fuel and still keep the same car? I don't want to buy another car and start fixing stuff on it. Everything that was broken on this car has been replaced.
I just want to get this straight. You are getting 32-33mpg on the highway and you are concerned about getting BETTER gas milage? You do realize that is excellent milage and above normal right? What are you expecting?
Originally Posted by Chief Brody
I just want to get this straight. You are getting 32-33mpg on the highway and you are concerned about getting BETTER gas milage? You do realize that is excellent milage and above normal right? What are you expecting?
Originally Posted by Brushedpewter
I know it's more than normal but I want more. I want mainly more street mpg. I'm only getting 22.5mpg. I think I'm getting 23-24mpg now, I fixed some vacuum leaks and did some more stuff.
I think you should get a Prius.
1) Prius is too expensive
2) Prius 3rd gen will be more mpg, faster and cheaper.
3) Like my current car.
I'm trying to get my money's worth. If I get a prius a month later a new car can come out that will be 10X better. Besides the 3rd gen prius is already in the works.
2) Prius 3rd gen will be more mpg, faster and cheaper.
3) Like my current car.
I'm trying to get my money's worth. If I get a prius a month later a new car can come out that will be 10X better. Besides the 3rd gen prius is already in the works.
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
There is a crude way to advance the timing with a E-Blue
But its too much information to digest.
I shall have my scanner logs soon after I advance it with my EU to prove it.
But its too much information to digest.I shall have my scanner logs soon after I advance it with my EU to prove it.
can the EU raise the rev limiter yet for our cars? if so i may have to sell my jwt and get one.
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