vq35 and 4th gen auto tranny?
vq35 and 4th gen auto tranny?
I'm seriosuly entertaining the thought of driving 500 miles to Tilley's shop in PA (shhhh dont tell him ,he doesnt know yet
) and getting a vq35 swapped in. Since i want to keep the autotragic until at least i have $$$ for a 5spd swap, how long can i count on it lasting? Currently it shift perfectly and i've had no probs w/it. Im at 135k miles at the moment
) and getting a vq35 swapped in. Since i want to keep the autotragic until at least i have $$$ for a 5spd swap, how long can i count on it lasting? Currently it shift perfectly and i've had no probs w/it. Im at 135k miles at the moment
guys, this 3.5 swap is getting more and more popular. It seems pretty cheap to get some parts to do so as well. What I suggest you to do is to get the 5spd first. You might as well, because it's cheaper then the motor. So do that first, enjoy itwhile you have it. Then, when u have enough cash to do the sawp, do it. Make sure u do the ecu at the same time if you want to feel a huge difference. If u leave the stock ecu, you'll see a really nice difference, but not a huge one. I'm planning on going that route. By the end of the summer, the mods will start in one shot, cause i'll saved it all up for that one shot deal. Either or, enjoy the car cause it'll be nice either way
If you do the 3.5 first you will probably never swap after blowing all the 5 spds away. I would rather fight than switch. Auto's will rule.
If I can't blow a 4th Gen trans with a 150 shot on a 3.0L you ain't gonna harm it with a 3.5 unless its already on its way out.
If I can't blow a 4th Gen trans with a 150 shot on a 3.0L you ain't gonna harm it with a 3.5 unless its already on its way out.
I was also thinking about donig the 3.5 swap so I went ahead and decided to mod my auto tranny. But now most of you guys (except for jime) are saying that 5spd is the way to go. So have I wasted my money on my auto tranny? I did a transgo VB mod and edge converter...you guys seriously think it wont hold up? (Please say it aint so)
Originally Posted by Jime
If you do the 3.5 first you will probably never swap after blowing all the 5 spds away. I would rather fight than switch. Auto's will rule.
For instance, in my book...13.6@105 > 13.3@103. That's just me though, so don't try to convince me otherwise.
Actually I have a 13.6@106 timeslip but that only means one of three things.
A. Poor setup
B. Poor choice of tires
C. Poor driver.
So I don't bother showing slips that are meaningless to me. The 1/4 mile is about only ONE thing and that is TIME. I don't go there to see how fast I can go, I go to see how quick I can go. Sure speed gives an indication of HP etc but I am a racer and racing is ONLY about time.
A. Poor setup
B. Poor choice of tires
C. Poor driver.
So I don't bother showing slips that are meaningless to me. The 1/4 mile is about only ONE thing and that is TIME. I don't go there to see how fast I can go, I go to see how quick I can go. Sure speed gives an indication of HP etc but I am a racer and racing is ONLY about time.
Originally Posted by Jime
The 1/4 mile is about only ONE thing and that is TIME. I don't go there to see how fast I can go, I go to see how quick I can go. Sure speed gives an indication of HP etc but I am a racer and racing is ONLY about time.
Originally Posted by nismology
If you live and die by 1/4 mile times perhaps. A solid 60' time and high trap speeds are all i would be concerned with.
For instance, in my book...13.6@105 > 13.3@103. That's just me though, so don't try to convince me otherwise.
For instance, in my book...13.6@105 > 13.3@103. That's just me though, so don't try to convince me otherwise.

Originally Posted by Jime
Actually I have a 13.6@106 timeslip but that only means one of three things.
A. Poor setup
B. Poor choice of tires
C. Poor driver..
A. Poor setup
B. Poor choice of tires
C. Poor driver..
13.6 on streets is awesome, don't think I can even come close. However what you are trying to do is something else again and exactly what I try to do, doing the best with what you got. You have already run a 13.3 with the slicks and can probably run even quicker. That wasn't an oranges vs oranges comparison.
Ths point is no one posts high MPH time vs a quicker ET unless its some kind of record for a certain setup which yours certainly is.
PS JClaw also happens to have the quickest 60' for any N/A setup so he covers both ends of the spectrum.
Ths point is no one posts high MPH time vs a quicker ET unless its some kind of record for a certain setup which yours certainly is.
PS JClaw also happens to have the quickest 60' for any N/A setup so he covers both ends of the spectrum.
Originally Posted by s0ber
Get out of here bandwagon rider and come back with usual information..


n btw, i think the reason jimes auto's lasted and never died was because that extra power he took down the track was not the same power the car had during daily driving. i think if you did a 3.5 with auto, the auto will eventually die because of the stress it would take in the street daily compared to 1/4 occational runs. for example some guy tested his high shot of nitrous on the highway and blew the tranny, reason being was because he sprayed while the car was downshifting. which would be the same as goign WOT on a 3.5 and the auto downshifting. i dont kno if i explained myself good enough but thats why i think most autos dont last with 3.5. So the only way i would see an auto surviving a 3.5 is if you baby the car in the street and never go WOT at least from a roll, and have occational 1/4 track runs. otherwise if ur going to be flooring it non stop on the street all over the place. 5sp is the way.
two of the main things that will help prevent the failure of an auto transmission is 1) Change fluid every 30k or so GOOD MAITENANCE!. And two A Tranny cooler is a must maxima auto trannys suffer from a lack of cooling from the stock cooler. Especially if you will be using a 3.5 engine. Like they said a upgrade to the valve body will give you quicker firm shifts, which will also help the transmission last. I currently have 170k on my transmission and am in the middle of a de-k swap, i have had a cooler since 30k and a vb since 100k. No signs of the tranny going any where and i currently have a jwt ecu, cattman y pipe and a udp. That is not saying much but my fluid IS VERY VERY CLEAN because i kept up on changing it. I will let you know how the tranny turns out once i get the de-k in.
Originally Posted by whlimi
I was also thinking about donig the 3.5 swap so I went ahead and decided to mod my auto tranny. But now most of you guys (except for jime) are saying that 5spd is the way to go. So have I wasted my money on my auto tranny? I did a transgo VB mod and edge converter...you guys seriously think it wont hold up? (Please say it aint so)
Have faith in the auto, brudda! I had installed a VLSD automatic, with Mobil1, dr-mod, and B&M cooler to replace a perfectly-functioning open-differential automatic. It performed very well all of last season with too much nitrous (!), and now I have an Edge installed. As soon as we get a dry day on a local strip, I'll get some practice with the Edge. ( and a 2003 3.5 is coming RealSoonNow )
Originally Posted by streetzlegend
STFU!!!
n btw, i think the reason jimes auto's lasted and never died was because that extra power he took down the track was not the same power the car had during daily driving. i think if you did a 3.5 with auto, the auto will eventually die because of the stress it would take in the street daily compared to 1/4 occational runs. for example some guy tested his high shot of nitrous on the highway and blew the tranny, reason being was because he sprayed while the car was downshifting. which would be the same as goign WOT on a 3.5 and the auto downshifting. i dont kno if i explained myself good enough but thats why i think most autos dont last with 3.5. So the only way i would see an auto surviving a 3.5 is if you baby the car in the street and never go WOT at least from a roll, and have occational 1/4 track runs. otherwise if ur going to be flooring it non stop on the street all over the place. 5sp is the way.
n btw, i think the reason jimes auto's lasted and never died was because that extra power he took down the track was not the same power the car had during daily driving. i think if you did a 3.5 with auto, the auto will eventually die because of the stress it would take in the street daily compared to 1/4 occational runs. for example some guy tested his high shot of nitrous on the highway and blew the tranny, reason being was because he sprayed while the car was downshifting. which would be the same as goign WOT on a 3.5 and the auto downshifting. i dont kno if i explained myself good enough but thats why i think most autos dont last with 3.5. So the only way i would see an auto surviving a 3.5 is if you baby the car in the street and never go WOT at least from a roll, and have occational 1/4 track runs. otherwise if ur going to be flooring it non stop on the street all over the place. 5sp is the way.
Agreed I dont do any street stuff, all runs are from a stop, no rolling starts.
I believe the main difference is in the maintenance and no screwing around except from a stop. Making an auto downshift under power is not the way to improve its longevity.
Originally Posted by zack342

I paid them, they sent me a unit I was not satisfied with, they took it back and made it right.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MAXSE5SPD
General Maxima Discussion
33
Sep 17, 2022 04:00 AM
Finkle
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
13
Sep 27, 2015 09:53 PM







