New Toy for my maxima!
#1
New Toy for my maxima!
Lookie what I copped today! I feel like a kid all over again
Thanks to Alex (icey2k1) for convincing me on getting a PLX...this unit is so small too...nearly the same size as my APEX-i V-AFCII...Can't wait to install it this weekend and street tune this....anybody have advice on WBo2 installation? I already got a bung in my exhaust...how about routing the wires through the firewall? PITA installation or straight forward? I plan to splice into my V-AFCII (which draws power from the ECU) to get my 12v, ground, tach...is this okay? Any other advice would be appreciated!
Thanks to Alex (icey2k1) for convincing me on getting a PLX...this unit is so small too...nearly the same size as my APEX-i V-AFCII...Can't wait to install it this weekend and street tune this....anybody have advice on WBo2 installation? I already got a bung in my exhaust...how about routing the wires through the firewall? PITA installation or straight forward? I plan to splice into my V-AFCII (which draws power from the ECU) to get my 12v, ground, tach...is this okay? Any other advice would be appreciated!
#4
Originally Posted by steven88
anybody have advice on WBo2 installation? I already got a bung in my exhaust...how about routing the wires through the firewall? PITA installation or straight forward? I plan to splice into my V-AFCII (which draws power from the ECU) to get my 12v, ground, tach...is this okay? Any other advice would be appreciated!
#5
by the way, your car sounds really nice...my old '90 Jetta used to shoot out flames all the time. I changed from a 1 3/4" pipe to 2 1/2" front to back not cat with a eurosport exhaust LOL sooo loud
The car was crap, but i loved it, then i got the Max I wish I had a pic of both of them side by side. I know this is a useless post...sorry
The car was crap, but i loved it, then i got the Max I wish I had a pic of both of them side by side. I know this is a useless post...sorry
#6
Nice!
All I could afford was the M300, hope to get mine in this weekend. Good luck with the install. Will the ECU power lead provide enough amps to power both the VAFC2 & that? Did you tap the ECU power lead twice for the VAFC's two power wires or just run 'em together?
All I could afford was the M300, hope to get mine in this weekend. Good luck with the install. Will the ECU power lead provide enough amps to power both the VAFC2 & that? Did you tap the ECU power lead twice for the VAFC's two power wires or just run 'em together?
#7
Originally Posted by jmeister
Nice!
All I could afford was the M300, hope to get mine in this weekend. Good luck with the install. Will the ECU power lead provide enough amps to power both the VAFC2 & that? Did you tap the ECU power lead twice for the VAFC's two power wires or just run 'em together?
All I could afford was the M300, hope to get mine in this weekend. Good luck with the install. Will the ECU power lead provide enough amps to power both the VAFC2 & that? Did you tap the ECU power lead twice for the VAFC's two power wires or just run 'em together?
Is it okay to splice my wb02 on the VAFCII wire (that draws power from the ecu)...or should I tap it directly into the ecu wire? a few suggest its okay to tap into the VAFCII since its the same....but at the same time, its kinda further away...won't it lose power if the length is too long? I'm sure there are people who have a WB02 and AFC, can u chime in on this?
#8
Originally Posted by Mass_Media
Were did you get it from? How much? Looks good andrew
#9
Originally Posted by 95mtlMAXSE
by the way, your car sounds really nice...my old '90 Jetta used to shoot out flames all the time. I changed from a 1 3/4" pipe to 2 1/2" front to back not cat with a eurosport exhaust LOL sooo loud
The car was crap, but i loved it, then i got the Max I wish I had a pic of both of them side by side. I know this is a useless post...sorry
The car was crap, but i loved it, then i got the Max I wish I had a pic of both of them side by side. I know this is a useless post...sorry
#11
R300 is dope....I would get the R500, but I ain't turbo so I don't need it....R500 has all the features R300 has but it has EGT, Knock sensor, G-meter, Configurable voltage output....those features I don't even need...and its like $100 more + the little accessories u have to buy like EGT probe....etc
i'm straight wit dat
i'm straight wit dat
#12
It shouldn't be a problem splicing into the VAFC-II power wire. The WB02 probably doesn't draw a large amount of amps to cause it not to work b/c of more electrical resistance. You can also just try it out. A splice can just be fixed with some heat shrink wrap not like you would need to solder more wires.
Go for it.
Go for it.
#13
Originally Posted by speed racer
It shouldn't be a problem splicing into the VAFC-II power wire. The WB02 probably doesn't draw a large amount of amps to cause it not to work b/c of more electrical resistance. You can also just try it out. A splice can just be fixed with some heat shrink wrap not like you would need to solder more wires.
Go for it.
Go for it.
anybody with R300 or some kind of WB tap into the vafcii wires and works great?>
#18
Originally Posted by 1FSTMAX
why not the r500 with the knock sensor monitor?
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...7&postcount=11
#21
The only device anyone has found to accurately/usefully measure knock is the J&S SafeGuard. All the others out there currently just measure engine noise.
Originally Posted by 1FSTMAX
why not the r500 with the knock sensor monitor?
#22
You can add EGT and the G-sensor, PLX makes it sound like you can't, but if you read the specs you just need the probe or G-sensor. However, NA guys probably don't ever need it.
The knock and programmable analog output aren't anything to care about IMO.
I'm glad you could make up your mind, although you spent a bit more then you intended. Funny thing is I'm having a hell of a time deciding between the PLX250 and the Innovative LC-1.
The knock and programmable analog output aren't anything to care about IMO.
I'm glad you could make up your mind, although you spent a bit more then you intended. Funny thing is I'm having a hell of a time deciding between the PLX250 and the Innovative LC-1.
Originally Posted by steven88
R300 is dope....I would get the R500, but I ain't turbo so I don't need it....R500 has all the features R300 has but it has EGT, Knock sensor, G-meter, Configurable voltage output....those features I don't even need...and its like $100 more + the little accessories u have to buy like EGT probe....etc
i'm straight wit dat
i'm straight wit dat
#23
Actually, looking again it was a misprint, it looks like you can't add EGT since the R500 uses an additional wire the R300 doesn't have. However, you can add the G-sensor, you just won't have the software to make a purrdy circle graph.
#25
The knock feature on the R500 does not work with nissan knock sensors. There is a thread on PLX's forums about it. It can be made to work but you have to fab up some contraption using resistors etc to get it to a point where it works.
Icy, how is one supposed to know the differece between noise and knock being measured? On mike's SAFC there is a marked and obvious difference in knock count when going from cold to hot weather, when going from 93 to 100 octane, when the cutout is open vs the cutout being closed (more boost with it open), etc.
Icy, how is one supposed to know the differece between noise and knock being measured? On mike's SAFC there is a marked and obvious difference in knock count when going from cold to hot weather, when going from 93 to 100 octane, when the cutout is open vs the cutout being closed (more boost with it open), etc.
#26
Neal,
Per John@J&S, he says his solution to ignore noise that changes depending on RPM is propriety. All I know is that his unit has circuitry that amplifies the knock audio from the sensor and I assume some kind of filtering he varies depending on the sensor.
Per John@J&S, he says his solution to ignore noise that changes depending on RPM is propriety. All I know is that his unit has circuitry that amplifies the knock audio from the sensor and I assume some kind of filtering he varies depending on the sensor.
#27
Originally Posted by steven88
Get the PLX M250 fosho....I looked at the Innovate products...damn the LM-1 looks like it came from the 70s....and the LC-1 brain is the same as the LM-1 brain...
It is cheaper because Innovate just packaged theirs in a much more compact way which is nice as it can be hidden away anywhere.
If I had done a little more research when I bought my WB02, I would have gone for the LC-1. My only criteria at the time was that it had a linear output.
#28
The PLX are digital also...
$60 less unless you use the REQUIRED $90 "heat-sink bung extender" for turbo applications.
The Innovative are cheaper because they use you as a free-air calibration monkey, which is error prone and required anytime drastic temp or altitude changes.
I like the LC-1 because of its compact size, logger, and programmable output. However, if you use an EU or standalone engine management the output/logger isn't necessary.
$60 less unless you use the REQUIRED $90 "heat-sink bung extender" for turbo applications.
The Innovative are cheaper because they use you as a free-air calibration monkey, which is error prone and required anytime drastic temp or altitude changes.
I like the LC-1 because of its compact size, logger, and programmable output. However, if you use an EU or standalone engine management the output/logger isn't necessary.
Originally Posted by eng92
For AFR feedback and datalogging you should always pick function over form especially if it costs less. The LC-1 is $60 less than the M-250. The LC-1 may be even considered better as it is digital (resolution ???) and you can program the outputs.
It is cheaper because Innovate just packaged theirs in a much more compact way which is nice as it can be hidden away anywhere.
If I had done a little more research when I bought my WB02, I would have gone for the LC-1. My only criteria at the time was that it had a linear output.
It is cheaper because Innovate just packaged theirs in a much more compact way which is nice as it can be hidden away anywhere.
If I had done a little more research when I bought my WB02, I would have gone for the LC-1. My only criteria at the time was that it had a linear output.
#29
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Neal,
Per John@J&S, he says his solution to ignore noise that changes depending on RPM is propriety. All I know is that his unit has circuitry that amplifies the knock audio from the sensor and I assume some kind of filtering he varies depending on the sensor.
Per John@J&S, he says his solution to ignore noise that changes depending on RPM is propriety. All I know is that his unit has circuitry that amplifies the knock audio from the sensor and I assume some kind of filtering he varies depending on the sensor.
I see. The problem with that claim is that it doesn't leave us any way to independently verify it. Not that I think he is lying in any way, but you can see how easy it would be for any manufacturer to say "any other knock sensing device except ours doesn't work." When we ask "how do we know that they don't work and that yours is the only one that works" their reply is simply "we can't tell you that because the technology is proprietary, just trust us."
So basically all we have at this point is John's manufacturer claim that all other knock sensing devices do not work, and that J&S is the only way to measure knock, with absolutely no way to verify whether or not that is true.
I've heard others say that the SAFC doesn't work as a knock sensing device (Jime, yourself, and SR20DEN - all very knowledgable). Yet the data I've seen from mike's SAFC contradicts these claims. So I don't know what to think.
#30
We know the J&S works and he has always been a straight shooter. He goes on EFI websites and debates far more knowledge people then myself and nobody I have seen calls him out. I personally believe him...just my .02. He has been around a LONG time and been praised in "tuner handbooks" I've read.
John still believes in ONLY closed loop knock control. I've been trying to convince him to use his technology to make a less expensive simpler knock monitor. I personally think that would be a huge seller, but not sure he does.
How do you know what you are seeing on Mikes' SAFC is detonation? If it is, how do you know it is harmful levels?
John still believes in ONLY closed loop knock control. I've been trying to convince him to use his technology to make a less expensive simpler knock monitor. I personally think that would be a huge seller, but not sure he does.
How do you know what you are seeing on Mikes' SAFC is detonation? If it is, how do you know it is harmful levels?
#31
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
How do you know what you are seeing on Mikes' SAFC is detonation? If it is, how do you know it is harmful levels?
We don't know, that's the problem. But the instances where it shows are instances where detonation would show. Higher boost levels, lower octane gas, etc. Also it's consistent, we can do a run on 93 pump with his cutout open and see almost 200 "knock" on his knock feature on the SAFC. We go close the cutout so he sees about 1-1.5lbs less boost and the knock goes away. We open the cutout back up, and the knock comes back. We add some 104 octane to the fuel mix with the cutout still open, still seeing the same boost level as we just saw 10 minutes ago and got knock readings, but with the 104 in the tank the knock count disappears. So it might be knock, but without any clear cut reason as to why a J&S can hear knock and nothing else can, who knows?
#32
Hey Icey, can you tell me where I can feed the wire through the firewall? I took a look earlier, and it seems to be no holes? I thought our cars came factory drilled with a few holes on the firewall....
I would get Neal to chime in as well...but not sure if the 4th gen firewall is setup the same as the 5th gen...I just needa feed this connector thru and I'm done
I would get Neal to chime in as well...but not sure if the 4th gen firewall is setup the same as the 5th gen...I just needa feed this connector thru and I'm done
#33
Try this: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/143972/9
Originally Posted by steven88
Hey Icey, can you tell me where I can feed the wire through the firewall? I took a look earlier, and it seems to be no holes? I thought our cars came factory drilled with a few holes on the firewall....
I would get Neal to chime in as well...but not sure if the 4th gen firewall is setup the same as the 5th gen...I just needa feed this connector thru and I'm done
I would get Neal to chime in as well...but not sure if the 4th gen firewall is setup the same as the 5th gen...I just needa feed this connector thru and I'm done
#38
Basically what Neal said about my SAFC knock readings is right. I have had my car though many, many different situations where kock could be a problems and my knock readings always coincide. It has been consistant enough that I put a fair amount of trust in the readings I get.
I can give tons of examples where the knock readings from my SAFC would be accurate. Neal listed alot of them. But another one is when I was at the track last spring getting in tons of runs. I didn't notice how low I was getting on fuel....lower than I would let myself get on the street in fear of running out of gas. I made a couple passes and started getting over 200 knock count from my SAFC. Didn't understand what was causing this since I had not gotten any signifinicant readings all night. That was when I noticed how low I was on fuel. Even my in cabin fuel pressure gauge started to bounch a round a little bit when I got on the throttle. Went right away and got some gas and the knock count on the SAFC went right back down to normal levels.
Now I don't know if the levels I am seeing are dangerous or not. I have formed a general rule of thumb for myself that anything over 150 could be dangerous, thus back things off if I see those types of numbers.
I think in general we all could agree that I am walking a fine line with the power I am putting down and being on stock timing. That being the case, when I make small changes to see a bit more boost and make a bit more power or see very high temps and my knock sensor reponds accordingly it would not be out of the quesiton that I am crossing that fine line. I didn't see these knock readings change when I went from 5psi to 8psi. I see these knock readings when I go from 9psi to 10.5 psi.
Those very respected and knowledgeable members who have said their SAFC's knock readings are useless have gotten very different results from me. IIRC Jime said his knock reading just slowly starts climbing from 0 to infinate the moment his car is started.
I can give tons of examples where the knock readings from my SAFC would be accurate. Neal listed alot of them. But another one is when I was at the track last spring getting in tons of runs. I didn't notice how low I was getting on fuel....lower than I would let myself get on the street in fear of running out of gas. I made a couple passes and started getting over 200 knock count from my SAFC. Didn't understand what was causing this since I had not gotten any signifinicant readings all night. That was when I noticed how low I was on fuel. Even my in cabin fuel pressure gauge started to bounch a round a little bit when I got on the throttle. Went right away and got some gas and the knock count on the SAFC went right back down to normal levels.
Now I don't know if the levels I am seeing are dangerous or not. I have formed a general rule of thumb for myself that anything over 150 could be dangerous, thus back things off if I see those types of numbers.
I think in general we all could agree that I am walking a fine line with the power I am putting down and being on stock timing. That being the case, when I make small changes to see a bit more boost and make a bit more power or see very high temps and my knock sensor reponds accordingly it would not be out of the quesiton that I am crossing that fine line. I didn't see these knock readings change when I went from 5psi to 8psi. I see these knock readings when I go from 9psi to 10.5 psi.
Those very respected and knowledgeable members who have said their SAFC's knock readings are useless have gotten very different results from me. IIRC Jime said his knock reading just slowly starts climbing from 0 to infinate the moment his car is started.
#39
Originally Posted by steven88
Hey Icey, can you tell me where I can feed the wire through the firewall? I took a look earlier, and it seems to be no holes? I thought our cars came factory drilled with a few holes on the firewall....
I would get Neal to chime in as well...but not sure if the 4th gen firewall is setup the same as the 5th gen...I just needa feed this connector thru and I'm done
I would get Neal to chime in as well...but not sure if the 4th gen firewall is setup the same as the 5th gen...I just needa feed this connector thru and I'm done
I have had to run many wires into my cabin from my engine bay. The 4th gen does have a few stock holes but I have long filled those to capacity. I spent so much time messing with those stock holes trying to get way too many wires going through there. I eventually just tried drilling a hole.....and it turned out to be very, very easy. I can put the hole in an easy place to reach and a good place for the wire come out on the other side. After realizing how easy it was I drill new holes anytime I need one.