JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Well the voltage before the coils was 0.1-0.2 v which per the FSM is normal while not cranking the engine. And the voltage to the injectors was 11.9-12.2 v. Plus everything is plugged up right.

Fuel pump? I HIGHLY doubt this, it always worked fine and even in the middle of the winter the 3.5 started right up no drama when it had not run for 3 months. I dont know why it would suddenly not work when I put in the 3.0.

Dunno about the grounds. How could I check them? I bolted everything back on like it was with the 3.5...

Where's the fuel pump fuse located?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

The grounds on the intake manifold, the main ground on the block, both should be connected. Make sure the contacts are clean too. No CEL codeS?

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Some of the suggestions in this thread are so generic in nature. lol


Anyway, if there's no fuel coming out of the line, i would start by:

1. Checking the fuel pump fuse
2. Going underneath the car and making sure the rubber hose that connects the hard lines is connected.
3. Removing the fuel level sending unit cover and making sure the rubber hose coming off the fuel pump is still connected.

I have a feeling the pressure was so great because of the misplaced lines that a hose popped off.

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

The FPR releases excess fuel to maintain pressure at a particular level, so I would say the FPR MUST be connected to the return line. Or in other words, at the end of the fuel rail.

I'm having a similar problem where the fuel pump doesn't even turn on. Both the fuse and the relay are good. If I connect a 12v source directly to the fuel pump, it turns on and builds pressure.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

That particular question has already been answered. He's now to the point where fuel doesn't come out of the feed line, which was addressed in my last post.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Just checked the fuel pump fuse (blue, position 32) and it's 100% fine.

CEL went away when I crank the car after I put the fuel hose back how it's supposed to be. I know about the two grounds on the intake manifold (solidly in place) but what do you mean by "main ground on the block"? Where is this located?

Do you mean the one that goes on the tranny?

Small Update: The cranking is really slow now, but the battery is still charged way up. Still now gas coming out of the unplugged fuel line with or without the fuel pump fuse in.

Also, it looks like I grounded the main ground (the big one that goes directly to the battery) on the aluminum tranny mount. Could that be a problem? I'm gonna clean both ends and ground it directly on the engine block.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Yes, that one. I am 95% sure it goes to the block on my car.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Since no fuel is coming out of the unplugged line, i would check the fuel line all the way back to the pump. It's a simple check really.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Will do.

Just finished cleaning the main ground connections and re-charging the battery and now the cranking is MUUUUUUUUCH faster. But it still wont start and still no fuel out of the line so I'll check for the gas line as you suggested.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Can you hear the fuel pump turn on while in ACC position?

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

The fuel pump doesn't come on in the ACC pos. It should turn on for 1 sec in the on position. If it receives a crank signal, it will turn on as necessary. Sometimes it's hard to hear the fuel pump turn on, esp if you have leather seats. Try removing the back seat and see if you can hear it. If you still can't hear it, try giving the fuel pump a 12v source to see if it will both run and if it shoots fuel out the hose.

It sounds like you either have a loose hose like nismology said or the fuel pump simply isn't turning on.

As far as the grounds go, Kevlo is talking about the negative battery cable which attaches to the engine block or head (I can't remember it's the block or the front head).

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Got that done and now it's fine.



Okay, so I had a 5-speed 1995 ECU (the one that came on the car) and a 1995 Auto ECU. I had the 95 5-speed ECU (original) plugged up so far.

I switched from the 5-speed ECU to the Auto ECU and surprise... gas coming out of the line (lots of it). Seriously WTF?

Anyway, I plug up the fuel lines fine and once again, the car cranks but won't start. I unplugged the line and sure enough plenty of gas coming out.

But the car still won't start... What do I do now? Gas is fine, voltage to the injectors and coil packs is normal, grounds are super good and everything is plugged up but it just won't start.

I haven't hooked up the y-pipe yet (just stock exhaust manifolds) and only one O2 sensor plugged up (the cat one), but I highly doubt that makes any difference.

Nismo3112

iTrader: (12)

Hmm.. so you are getting fuel, and spark.. and of course air..





Car should still start with the y-pipe disconnected.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Time to go on the cam and crank sensors, do you have a spare to swap with?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Also, intake and everything is good right? Try to turn it on with the accelorator all the way down to the floor.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Yep. Not the ENTIRE stock airbox setup, but the TB-MAF-Box w/filter. That's it.

Yes, the 3.5 in the garage right now. But when I did the swap I used the 2002 Crank sensor so I didn't have to grind the block. It always worked fine. But I'm not sure how I could fit it on the 3.0 block.

I'm not sleeping until I get it running and I've already been up for 25 hours (graveyard shift!)

Anyway, does it mater that the ECU is lying on the passenger side carpet and not in its solid position behind the dash? I assume it's grounded anyway.

EDIT: There is no CEL when I crank it. And once again the cranking is REALLY fast. I reset the ECU, too. And tried with the accelerator to the floor. Still a no go. Swapping cam sensor and crank sensor next.

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

how's the compression? I was working on an altima that wouldn't start. I did a compression test and found the compression at 60-90 psi because the oil was washed away from the cylinder walls from the gasoline while I was doing other troubleshooting. I put some oil in each cylinder after replacing a coil and it fired up. Low compression would explain why it would be cranking faster than normal.

Are you sure you're getting spark??

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Just pulled the crank sensor (the one between the motor and the tranny) and I have a hard time seeing how it could go wrong. I mean it's a magnet with three wires, and the magnet still works fine. I even checked on a spare 5-speed flywheel I have laying around.

How so?

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

If you have low or no compression, it's hella easier to move the pistons up and down. If you take the spark plugs out, you can turn the crank by hand. I can imagine that the engine might have been sitting for awhile and you might not have enough oil on the cylinder walls for the rings to give a good seal.

Does the engine even cough or sputter at all? Or does it just crank over and do nothing?

You could test the crank sensor by connecting it to a multimeter and passing something ferrous in front of the magnet.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

It just cranks fast but nothing, no other sound. Haven't even seen the RPMs mount a little. The tach needle just sits there at 0.

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

That definately sounds like a crank or a cam sensor or a problem with the wiring. If I remember correctly, the rpm needle should at least flutter when cranking.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Ok so I'm gonna clean the crank sensor and re-do the wiring that goes to it (already cut/soldered so it doesn't mater).

If that doesn't work I'm gonna switch to the cam sensor on the 3.5 (I KNOW this one works).

And if that doesn't work I'm gonna commit suicide. Back in 10 minutes.

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

I just looked at the FSM and the crank sensor (POS) that reads the flywheel and measures the engine speed. The crank sensor at the oil pan (REF) measures where TDC is.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Yeah, I meant to check the Crank REF, it is the one on the oil pan. Make sure it's clean and you have it wired up correctly.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

I just remembered something. When I got this engine (3.0) the crank sensor harness was cut so I soldered the plug according to the color of the wires on the 3.5, but I used the 2002 Crank POS sensor on the 3.5, so the colors should mean precisely jack sht.

It's only 3 wires down there to the plug but I'd need to know in which order they go because I do not have the original plug. I have other 3-pin plugs that will work just fine but I'd need the colors/order of those 3 wires...

I have the FSM on my comp open right now but it doesn't show the color of the wires much less the details.

Probably gonna end up going blind into this but if anyone knows in which order the wires go I'd help.

I will check the Crank REF under the pulley and its harness as you suggested too...

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

If I wasn't at work right now, I'd take a pic.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Let me check...

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

White wire is in the middle. With the tab at the top of the connector, left is red and right is black. Same wire colors all the way to the ecu too.

Where would you want me to take a pic?

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Thanks man. Just a pic of the connector with the three wires' colors visible.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Is that the connector? or do you want it where it connects to the sensor? Or the other end of this connector?

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Yes I need the part where it connects to the sensor. That part of my harness is fine, I basically I have the upper half of the harness and a loose plug.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Sorry, this was the best pic I could do.



Left to right:
Black-White-Red

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Done. I definately had the wires wrong before. It was something like white-black-red.

The car still wont start

But now when I leave the key on it will make a constant, monotonous tic-toc sound somewhere around the intake manifold/TB.

Seriously... I don't get it. The crank REF is fine I checked. Gonna try the cam sensor I guess.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

IACV Ticking?

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Probably. It comes from that part of the engine.

Now why would fixing the crank sensor harness cause constant ticking?

Weimar Ben

iTrader: (5)

Are you sure the ticking isn't the fuel injectors?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Double check to make sure everything is plugged in?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Also, try to check the codes, maybe it threw one and you dont know.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

I don't know. What would that mean?

The ticking is very uniform, constant, always the same, never stops with the key on. The moment I turn the key off it stops.

Very wierd that it starts doing this only after I repaired the harness... no idea what it means.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Press the accel and see if the ticking stops.