hey, i'm in the process of my swap, and i'm gathering as much info as I can.

Having a conversation with a few people from the .org, they told me that the timng cover seal may leak. What's the best way i should seal it? I've heard to make a nice bead pattern with rtv sealant. Also, I'm VERY concerned as to the the timing chain and tensioner. I'm going to triple check everything in the timing case before I put the covers back on. Any tips on making a fool proof installation? I have the haynes and FSM.

Also, i saw in the 3.5 procedure that you have to drill out some of the timing cover, but I didn't really understand exactly how much. Anyone have any other pics to show how it should look?

I'm asking a bunch of questions because I wanna do it right, and I know i'll get good info this way.

 

hey well the hardest part isnt the swap physically.its dealing with it mentally.but the timing chain is pretty simple line up the marks:2 blue for the camgears. and a gold link for the crank sprocket.the timing cover you kinda have to test fit it till it fits.but its gonna kinda be up and to the left(look it from the inside part where the timing equi. goes)hey if you want you can call me with any other questions.just pm me.good luck guy

 

I wasn't at the shop when they put my timming equipment on and i forgot to ask if they enlarged that hole. If they didn't could that be a problem? It looks to be a hole for one of the mounting screws? They didn't say they had any problems and i just totally forgot to remind them.

Sorry for the thread jack but if that timming euipment has to come off i am f'd

 

Chris,

I think you are OK because they way I am reading in this thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=430880

you have to enlarge the hole to use the timing cases. If they didn't I don't think it would have went together. So seeing that the motor is together.. I think you are OK.

Mike

 

I'm just majorly worried about sealing the case, and having slack in the timing chain.

 

jus make sure you put sealant on all the grooves and your good.and for the slack part when you put everything together you'll barely have any left to worry bout.jus put the tensioner on last.
like i said earlier if you want pm me if you want my number.

 

Just make sure the sealing surfaces are perfectly clean before mating them.

 

They will still go together, but if they didn't enlarge the holes there would be no way to put that bolt in there, you would be short 2 bolts that bolt the rear cover onto the engine. Chris, hopefully you won't get any leaks

 

maybe buying the motor???

 

shut up.

10 char

 

Clean the surfaces well. Apply sealant, let dry, scrape off excess. That's about all the advice I have on the sealant. Why Nissan likes this stuff so much I don't know and they seem to use more of it with each new version of the VQ.

As far as enlarging the hole through the timing chain cover, you should be able to measure the bolts and enlarge them the necessary amounts, since you have to pull the 3.5 timing equiptment off first.

G'Luck.

 

I just enlarged the hole until the bolts threaded through. No more, no less.

To be honest, the hardest part of this swap was taking the crank pulley off of the 3.5.

 

Yeah, I bought a new Impact wrench for my crank pulley.... mmmm... 475 ft/lbs (drool).

 

My Dewalt 500 ft/lb impact wouldn't loosen it. I finally got it off with my air wrench.

 

that it was a ***** to take off...i had to put heat to it then it came off easily....after holding down the impact to it for like 10 seconds.

 

yall do no there is a tab you can use to hold the crank in place while you take it off?i got mine off with a breaker bar the first time

 

It's not that the crank turns while trying to loosen it. It's the fact that it is ON THERE.

 

lol i get what your saying.i guess using a long breaker bar makes it easier somewhat.

 

I usually just have a ghetto breaker bar - a long pipe i put on one of my broken "locked" ratchets. I have yet to loosen my parts car axle nuts this way.

 

jus jump on the breaker bar for a few times in should come loose.
i did my whole swap without airtools.(i really wish i had some tho)

 

You guys don't know the old trick of cranking the engine really quick to break the nut loose while the breaker bar is attached?

That's only if you don't have a strong enoough impact to loosen it.

 

That's kind of hard when the engines is not in the car and can't be started.

 

That's why you need air tools my friend.

 

I know, I have air tools. I was talking about its hard to start an engine when its out to the car with no way to start it

 

Not necessarily. My ridgid electric impact eats crank bolts for lunch.

 

thats kinda suprising but it kinda makes sense if they are anything like some of the drills i use at work sometimes. We have some electic hammer drills at work and if you are drilling on some concrete and they get hung up they produce so much torque it will literally jerk you around like a rag doll.

 

Show me a link to a 500 ft/lb Dewalt impact.

 

doh..............

 

Tavarish pm me please when u get a chance, I would like to discuss a possible job 4 ya thanxs.

 

I just looked up the part# on mine (DW290) and it only has 240 ft/lb..

Weaksauce, All these years I thought I had 500 ft/lbs

 

I have the Craftsman Electric impact and that thing is good. It has 325 ft pounds of torque. I used it last weekend to remove some stiff bolts on the Max it worked like a charm.

 

Well it doesn't have to be air tools, just something that is operated by a trigger.

 

Actually making good power.

 

Hm... Tilley makes it look really easy. Not to mention Mardi








The world's two fastest Maximas.

 

Oh, my bad. I somehow missed the part where it said we were posting in the FORCED INDUCTION section.


And FYI, when you say 'fastest' that refers to trap speed. Neals car has trapped higher than Tilleys car at this point in time.

 

They both have 3.5 swaps, which this thread is pertaining to, do they not? Your post insisted that it's difficult for 3.5 swaps to make power.. That's where my example of Mardi and Tilley come into play.

My point is it's not any harder to make power than other Maximas. We just arent trying that hard. (me atleast)

Making power is DEFINITELY not the hardest part......

When I said fastest, I meant from point A to B. ie 1/4 mile. That's what they're all about.

 

My post insisted nothing. I did however insinuate that making power in the swap was 'apparently' the hardest thing to do. Because dozens of people have done the project and so far only two have appeared to have made it worthwhile. Speaking in NA terms of course because this isn't the FI forum.

Why try at all if you're going to do the job half a$$ed and follow all of the other bad examples?

That would be 'quickest' not 'fastest'.

 

Insinuate. Tomato Tomahto.

Right now I am satisfied with the performance. I didn't know that not trying my best to make the most power is half assing it.

Okay then. Quickest.

 

well....i bought a generic ebay electric impact wrench to help me along with my swap....i won't have a cherry picker, so i'l be doing the whole swap with a hydraulic jack. Lucky me.



By the way.....anyone want a parts car? I cant seem to get rid of it for the life of me.

 

How's that gonna work?