matty

iTrader: (54)

I will be putting in my DEK in about a week or two, depending on parts coming in and I still have a few questions up in the air.

1) Do I need to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets with New Gakets if taking off the exhaust manifolds? They are $30 a peice from Nissan..eeeeekkk

2) What should I change, if anything, on the steering rack when I have the motor out ?? I was thinking of doing the entire rack but thats kinda pricey...any options?

3) Any precautions I should be taking with this motor not being ran since October 2001. Nearly 4 1/2 years of this motor not being ran. Marval mistery oil in the spark plug whole ?

4) Is it best to use Convention Oil in the motor like Pennzoil, till I get it broken in, and then swtich over to synthetic ?? I will have to break in the clutch at the same time as the motor, so I'm not worried about that.

5) Im going to have Emange Ultimate up and running by the time of the swap and I want to know if it would be a good idea to totally get ride of the EGR valve ??? What would be a drawback of this ?? Will my cold starts in the morning suffer without an EGR valve ?? what about a code ??

-matt

matty

iTrader: (54)

bump it up

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Get them from an auto parts store, I'd recommend going ahead and getting new ones if you have the manifolds off already. The Fel-pro gaskets go for $9.24/pair from Advance Auto, part number MS91459 (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...ype=96&ptset=A)

I wouldn't really worry about the motor not being run in so long, recently I swapped an engine from a '91 Tercel (that had sat since about '92) into a '93 chassis, started up first try with no problems at all. Same thing for a 3.0 V6 for a Ford Contour (or Taurus, I don't really remember) that had sat for a few years, no problems at all starting up first try. Both of them worked perfectly and still do, without any real prep work done to them.

Everyone says different things about motor oil, but unless the engine's just been rebuilt, it's already been broken in before the car was wrecked or the engine was yanked out. If you do want to take it easy for a while, I'd at least use dino just for the price difference if you're going to be doing a few close oil changes. Synthetic at or after that point would be just fine, and you'd be able to extend your regular oil changes out quite a bit.

I've done a little reading up on this myself, and removing the EGR will result in a code or two, and apparently has a fair affect on the idle of the engine as well. What I've skimmed through here on the org is basically that, but I don't really know any more in detail about it.