its easy to make if you have the 5th gen tb? I can't take pics right now cause im about to leave for work but i think i have a fuel rail.

 

That's because the hose routings can be done many different ways, and everyone's preferences/ideas are all different. There is no 1 correct way. Once you get doing the swap spend the time with the FSM diagram to figure out which line is what and then decide where/how you want to route them around.

 

if you choose to use the 5th gen tb and the 4th gen iacv, you'll need an iacv adapter plate and you need to removed the iacv off the 5th gen tb and replace it with a blockoff plate

 

I have all my specs and material for the IACV remote mounting plate and can also make the 5th gen. IACV blockoff plate for those interested. PM if you want one or both.

 

Yeah, I have that figured out now with the help of some other .orgers. My ideas are as simple as they get.

 

i can find caesars 00vi gallery for some reason..anyone else know where its at?

 

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ceasar...ba5scd&.src=ph

 

thanks man

 

So do you think the 1/2" fitting I bought will be big enough?

 

shh, yea that will be big enough..

 

Only one way to find out. I'm avoiding the experiment and fabricating my own spacer plate and IACV mouting plate. I'm using 1 1/2" Pipe, so it will be the same as the stock opening.

 

Holy...you're really going all-out. I don't think I'm willing to go through all that trouble, so I think 1/2" will suite me just fine for all the more work it'll require.

 

Question to anyone that might read this:

Are the ECU pin-outs on Jime's website that he has listed for a '97 going to work if I try to use them for my '95? All I need to know for is to hook up my RPM switch, so I only need to know which is the RPM signal/tach.

AND...where did you happen to mount your RPM switches at? I'll have a sizeable MSD box to mount.

Also, does anyone have the EC (engine control) page for the PDF version of the FSM? I don't have it, and re-downloaded the FSM from phatg20.net and it seems to be missing (for '95 atleast).

 

Ah, it's not really all that much trouble. I picked up a 4"x4"x2" block of 6061, a piece of 3/8" 6061 plate, and a piece of 1.5" O.D. pipe from a local aluminum supplier for around $20. A little drilling here, a little tapping there, followed by a little TIG welding, and you're done.

 

I wish I could do it that easily. I don't have the right tools (especially not a TIG welder). Luckily mine are being done free in exchange for a car detailing

 

i dont know what a tig welder is but dude if you could do a write up or whatevere i'm definently up for this. I dont know what these plates even look like or what it takes to make them but if i can do this i most definently want to give it a shot.

 

2" is thick. You could make it with 1/2" or even 3/4" inch at most. Where will the remote location be?

 

Where do you get the metal from? The iacv plate looks fairly easy but I haven't seen the tb one. What do you mean by remote location?

 

Basically he's asking where the IACV is going to be placed. Personally, mine is going to sit as close to the port on the manifold that I'm using as possible. The closer the better, I don't care if it looks a little ghetto.

 

Well, I'm in the process of putting together a detailed account of my 00VI installation including part numbers, cost, templates for plates and adapters, as well as detailed photos of each step. It will all be in .pdf format and available on cd after the project is done. Unfortunately, it is going to take a while to complete the installation because of this.

The plate comes from a company called Research Alloy in Columbus Ohio. The reason the TB spacer is 2" thick is because the IACV has to mount to the plate which requires the same airflow as stock, through a 1"+ tube. The design is very similar to what you've seen on Stephenmax car and some others.

There is a ton of time involved in making the plates and spacer if you want it to be high quality. You basically have to have or have access to machining tools such as a drill press, upright band saw, various hole saws, a TIG (tungsten inert gas) welder and good taps. If you have the tools and the time, anyone can make them.

 

As far as remote installation, there are two ways you can do it. Build a plate and tube design that runs directly off the air intake as it passes the TB and into the UIM (similar to stock) or use fittings and hose to remotely mount it. The latter is obviously easier, but I am not completely sold on the idea that the IACV will work properly. When you live in Ohio or cold climates, being able to start your car and have the idle adjust properly is important to me. If I lived in a warm climate, I would not be as concerned.

 

This is what I was getting at. To my knowledge the only one that had/has a workable 4th gen IACV is Kevlo. His setup is based on Stephen Max adapter which was of superior quality. I know my old setup was garbage and didn't work well since I also used the 5th gen TB. No more Fast cam. But it sounds like you have the recources to make the adapter plate and get a functional IACV. Hence the reason why I am using the 5th gen. IACV in lieu of the 4th gen.

 

i actually bought the same pcv valve as you and will be attempting to hack and jb weld it tonight. hopefully get the 00vi in and running tomorrow.

 

I wish mine were going on that soon I still have to pick up some injector o-rings, the lower manifold -> heads gaskets, still waiting on my adapter plates to be made, still have to do some modifications to the manifold, and I need to do SOMETHING with my intake...not sure what. I don't feel like ordering another accordian section from Nissan, so I think I'll just buy a cheap eBay CAI or something like I should have done a long time ago.

 

Man good luck I tried it but mine got stuck so I gotta buy a new one and try again. Tatanko just straight up cut off the inside tube that's what I'm gonna do and then shorten the 90 angle piece and "glue" that straight on. I just hope the travel and fact that the inner nipple is gone doesn't have any negative effect.

Hey tatanko why can't you just use the injector o rings already on your stock manifold?

 

Yeah the PCV I modified is like bare bones now. If it doesn't work properly, I may just try the setup suggested by someone else in another thread (stick some kind of elbow in the hole, run a hose to a remote PCV, and then have another hose coming off of it). I may do that anyway just to be safe since it'll be hard to replace once the manifold is on, not sure.

chillin, I could use the o-rings on the car but I just want to be safe...don't want to take the chance that the current ones could be on their last leg or something, because then removing them could be it for them. I don't know, maybe I'll remove one and see what kind of condition it's in and just clean them before I put them in my new, drilled manifold.

 

Oh I hear ya. My drilled manifold came with all but one of the o-rings. Looked fine to me.
Anyway, I might scope out that pcv valve set up as well.

 

i'm reusing the o-rings, reusing the lower manifold->head gaskets, using a 5th gen TB w/ IACV, and my fingers are crossed. i have a feeling it may not work out and i just have to return my setup back to stock. oh and i'm also using the stock intake resonator and accordian section hooked up to my jwt popcharger. i'm hoping the accordian section can stretch out far enough to where i need it.

actually, my friend, nismo3112 came by tonight to dremel the pcv valve and jb weld it for me, and also drill a hole in my throttle cable bracket since all i have is the 4th gen one. i guess i'll know by tomorrow night and i'll let you guys know how it goes.

 

That's good. As long as you're not attempting to use all the stock pre-bent hoses with the stock midpipe, I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. Although it may not fit simply because of lack of space, I'm not sure. Since we gain some low end with this swap, I'm willing to take the plunge to full CAI on this swap and lose 2 WTQ (or atleast have a straight through midpipe in place of the stock box one...but I'll leave the accordian section).

"Dremel the PCV valve" eh? What do you mean? You mean you're doing the same mods to it as I did? Definitely let us know what it's like, whether or not it works right, how easy it is to access with the 00VI on, whether it clears, etc.

 

If you have anti-lock brakes than using one air duct (accordian section) won't work. I am using two air ducts the 4th gen resonator and the stillen pop charger. The fact is that the 00VI puts the TB closer to the firewall and you need to extend the intake tubing so that the resonator box is not being obstructed by the anti-lock system by the brake master cylinder.

 

you have any pics of your set up? i just bought a new resonator/accordian air duct cause mine broke but its not like i have any couplings to replace it with..

 

Gahh. I still have a wiring question that never got answered in my other thread. Since I have the MSD 8969, it comes with cylinder # settings, and reccomends 1-cylinder for cars with coil packs. Is that the setting I should be using if I'm tapping the ECU tach wire?

EDIT: Nm, Jime answered my questions.

 

5th gen stock midpipe/airbox fits fine with the 00vi. you can get one for like $20, problem solved.

 

tatanko- i did the same thing as you to the pcv valve.

*ATTN* it did not work for me. here's pic w/ the modified pcv valve:

you can see even if the upper is touching the lower on the left, on the right there is a little less than 1cm before the egr guide tube is flush w/ the upper. if you wanted to have the egr guide tube flush w/ the upper, it just rock over and there would be a gap in between the lower and upper.

therefore, you're going to need either a) an elbow that fits in the pcv valve grommet, but the part that connects to the hose will have to be of minimal diameter OR b) just get the 5th gen valve cover.

at this point my car is back to stock since i need it. maybe winterbreak i'll attempt this again. not sure, i may sell my 00vi setup (upper, drilled 4th gen lower, 5th gen TB+IACV, jbwelded all the things i was supposed to, 5th gen egr guide tube) if i can get a good amount i'll defnitely think about it. i'm starting my 2nd year of medschool and i really don't have much time to be messing around w/ this and it's already become more of a chore than something enjoyable.

 

I'll take some pictures and post them up today or tomorrow.

Here the picture

 

Looks like elbow it is. A very small one, at that.

 

I'll be going to Lowe's tommorrow to pick up an elbow. aznsap, do you think one with a diameter as big as the PCV valve opening (the hole on the valve cover) is going to fit under the manifold? That would place it at almost the same height above the cover as my current PCV valve.

Also, you mentioned the EGR guide tube creating problems involved with this. Since I'm removing the EGR system as part of my swap, will that allow me to mount things so they clear better? I'm sort of confused as to your description of how your manifold sits.

 

okay, if you have an elbow w/ the same diameter on both bends, i don't think it will work well. getting rid of EGR gets rid of one problem, but i'm worried that if you 00vi upper is sitting on your fat elbow, it may not be totally flush w/ the lower IM, do you see what i'm saying? the 5th gen gaskets aren't as thick as the 4th gen ones either. the same pcv valve that we modified is deceptively higher than it looks, because the flat round part doesn't sit in the grommet, and it's of decent thickness.
i went to a menards to look around for an elbow and didn't come up with anything, please let me know if you find anything. it would have to be a certain material that can withstand high temps, so either a similar plastic to the pcv valve or i was thinking maybe even a metal elbow might work.

so i think i saw a thread before how somebody modified their 4th gen rear valve cover, but i can't find it. i think vipervadim did the work, i sent him a pm but haven't heard a reply yet.

 

At this point, I'm basically saying screw it. I'll likely end up ordering a 5th gen rear valve cover from a junkyard, they aren't that expensive.

 

don't forget the 3 rear coils. if that guy that modifies the valve cover does it for a reasonable price (less than the cost of a used 5th gen valve cover and rear coils), i may just end up doing that.