Something wrong with my 3.5? Help
#1
Something wrong with my 3.5? Help
I went to the track yesterday and did 2 runs. Both were 14.9??? I had a 60" 2.34, 1/8 of 9.66 and 1/4 of 14.9 at 96mph. Is there something wrong or is it my driving? The only thing i did different is used my 3.0 TB instead of the 3.5's. But would that affect that much?
My car had 18's with a completely full tank of 91 octane ( I know, I filled it up the day before without thinking about racing the next day).
Can some1 please shine some light in this.
My car had 18's with a completely full tank of 91 octane ( I know, I filled it up the day before without thinking about racing the next day).
Can some1 please shine some light in this.
#2
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Posts: n/a
hmmmmm.........your really not suppose to race with a full tank of gas...maybe like a 1/4 of a tank is what u should be aiming for.
and the throttle body can be affecting you also.
and trust me i kno this from experience....bigger tire and rims will affect you.
i had the stock saw blades on and ran good times.
then put on my 17's from the "03" SE and my car is sluggish as hell....
try putting you stock tires bacc on the front if u still have them and run again.
you should be hittin mid 13's
and the throttle body can be affecting you also.
and trust me i kno this from experience....bigger tire and rims will affect you.
i had the stock saw blades on and ran good times.
then put on my 17's from the "03" SE and my car is sluggish as hell....
try putting you stock tires bacc on the front if u still have them and run again.
you should be hittin mid 13's
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
wheels and gas shouldnt make THAT big of a difference. theres either something wrong or youre driving is not good. cant really tell you cause i dont know what youre driving is like, but i would check to make sure everything is working properly. running on your 18's and a full tank will make you slower but not enough to put you at 14.9
#5
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Un-Tuned !!!!
Being untuned can really make a 30-40 hp difference, possibly even more depending on how pig rich you are. That would be my first guess off the top of my head without even seeing the car or knowing your setup.
Being untuned can really make a 30-40 hp difference, possibly even more depending on how pig rich you are. That would be my first guess off the top of my head without even seeing the car or knowing your setup.
#7
Originally Posted by matty
Un-Tuned !!!!
Being untuned can really make a 30-40 hp difference, possibly even more depending on how pig rich you are. That would be my first guess off the top of my head without even seeing the car or knowing your setup.
Being untuned can really make a 30-40 hp difference, possibly even more depending on how pig rich you are. That would be my first guess off the top of my head without even seeing the car or knowing your setup.
OP: Why are you running the 3.0 throttle body anyway? This hints at using a 3.0 intake manifold...which begs the question, why not the 3.5 intake manifold?
#8
A 96 mph trap sounds about right for your setup and your run conditions, but the 14.9 doesn't sound right. Try switching to a smaller wheel and run without a full tank, (full tank of gas is > 100 lb)
BTW, tuning can make a good difference, but his car shouldn't be that off. I ran a 13.8 with almost a full tank, untuned, and a 2.3 60'. Best trap of 102.xx MPH.
BTW, tuning can make a good difference, but his car shouldn't be that off. I ran a 13.8 with almost a full tank, untuned, and a 2.3 60'. Best trap of 102.xx MPH.
#13
Update** I went to dyno my car today to see if my driving was that bad. I dynoed 197 hp. The garage I went to is a Honda and Nissan only garage. I told the mecanic about my swap and he said that something was wrong. I mentioned about the TB and he went right at it for 1 hour straight. Finally, with the 3.5 TB in, he redynoed my car and it came out 218 hp. I was amazed at how a 75mm TB could make such a difference.
He then pointed out that i also needed a RPM switch. I lose 40 pound of torque between 3000 and 4750 rpm. It just drops real fast and climbs back up. Also, he said i might lose like 5 hp since my O2 sensor is sending off a signal.
He then pointed out that i also needed a RPM switch. I lose 40 pound of torque between 3000 and 4750 rpm. It just drops real fast and climbs back up. Also, he said i might lose like 5 hp since my O2 sensor is sending off a signal.
#14
A dead o2 sensor will not hurt HP @ WOT.
Good to hear you got some of your problems sorted out.
So when you say he went at it for an hour, does that mean?
Do you have the runfiles, any idea on model of dyno it was on and what the correction factor was?
Judging from the tq loss noticed on the dyno, I would say he is using the 02+ IM.
Also, what ECU are you using...?
Good to hear you got some of your problems sorted out.
So when you say he went at it for an hour, does that mean?
Do you have the runfiles, any idea on model of dyno it was on and what the correction factor was?
Judging from the tq loss noticed on the dyno, I would say he is using the 02+ IM.
Also, what ECU are you using...?
#15
When he reseted the ecu by unplugging the battery for a while, he would run it and the dyno would show an increase of 5 to 8 hp. Then after a few runs, it would fall back to the original hp. The only CEL code I have is for an O2 sensor so that's why I thought maybe changing that would help it.
The Dyno they had was a Dynopack 3000. It's pretty cool. It can simulate as if your doing a hill climb, restrict or hold your rpms. I has no straps either so you can actually tinker in the engine bay while it's running on the dyno to try out things.(http://www.ultimategarage.com/dynapack.html)
I'm using the 99 ECU. He worked on the 3.5 TB for an hour trying to get it assembled and working on my setup.
The Dyno they had was a Dynopack 3000. It's pretty cool. It can simulate as if your doing a hill climb, restrict or hold your rpms. I has no straps either so you can actually tinker in the engine bay while it's running on the dyno to try out things.(http://www.ultimategarage.com/dynapack.html)
I'm using the 99 ECU. He worked on the 3.5 TB for an hour trying to get it assembled and working on my setup.
#18
Originally Posted by Maxpower96
I lose 40 pound of torque between 3000 and 4750 rpm. It just drops real fast and climbs back up.
#20
Originally Posted by Maxpower96
When he reseted the ecu by unplugging the battery for a while, he would run it and the dyno would show an increase of 5 to 8 hp. Then after a few runs, it would fall back to the original hp.
#22
Originally Posted by Maxpower96
You might be right
Originally Posted by Maxpower96
But I will be getting the RPM switch.
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