Planning a 3.5 swap...what else should I do while the motor's out?
Planning a 3.5 swap...what else should I do while the motor's out?
In the spring, Nismo3112 and I are going to swap out the 3.0 in my 96 for a 3.5 from an 02. In addition to that, I am going to install the debuloz/ebay cams, GReddy eManage Ultimate, Exedy Stage 1 clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Pathfinder TB, Walbro 255lph fuel pump and ARP rod bolts. We'll be using brand new 3.0 timing equipment as well. All spacers/adapters will be purchased from Stephen Max. While the motor and transmission are out, is there anything else I should do?
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Headers? Valvetrain? Revup or highflow oil pump?
Originally Posted by THT
I thought I read somewhere that the debuloz/ebay cams were only to be used with the stock valvetrain?
Cold Valve Lash .010-.013" on Intake & Exhaust
Required to Use Stock Valve Springs
Most people read that as two seperate lines, but it's one line seperated. It means to say "Cold Valve Lash .010-.013" on Intake & Exhaust Required to Use Stock Valve Springs". It's telling you what the valve lash should be if you plan on using stock valve springs.
Originally Posted by nismology
Common misconception on this site due to the wording on the ebay listings. It says:
Cold Valve Lash .010-.013" on Intake & Exhaust
Required to Use Stock Valve Springs
Most people read that as two seperate lines, but it's one line seperated. It means to say "Cold Valve Lash .010-.013" on Intake & Exhaust Required to Use Stock Valve Springs". It's telling you what the valve lash should be if you plan on using stock valve springs.
Cold Valve Lash .010-.013" on Intake & Exhaust
Required to Use Stock Valve Springs
Most people read that as two seperate lines, but it's one line seperated. It means to say "Cold Valve Lash .010-.013" on Intake & Exhaust Required to Use Stock Valve Springs". It's telling you what the valve lash should be if you plan on using stock valve springs.
Definitely Headers,
remove all the little clips and brackets,
clean the engine bay up,
install new hoses where applicable, (i'd run new 5/16 fuel hose)
A Good adjustable FPR,
Ground Kit, New 4 guage from +12V Bat to alternator, as well.
seafoam the motor once you get it running well.
GET RAXLES.
polyurethane the motor mounts.
depending on what condition the front suspension is in, you might want to replace the control arms w/balljoints, new bushing -- Energy suspension? everywhere, and new endlinks for the front sway bar
traction bars for the track,
wire in a shift light
depending on what condition the shocks are in, it might be time for new upper strut mounts, strut bearings.
it's up to you how far you want to go. don't forget traction, handling, and brakes will play a big role once the 3.5 is in.
remove all the little clips and brackets,
clean the engine bay up,
install new hoses where applicable, (i'd run new 5/16 fuel hose)
A Good adjustable FPR,
Ground Kit, New 4 guage from +12V Bat to alternator, as well.
seafoam the motor once you get it running well.
GET RAXLES.
polyurethane the motor mounts.
depending on what condition the front suspension is in, you might want to replace the control arms w/balljoints, new bushing -- Energy suspension? everywhere, and new endlinks for the front sway bar
traction bars for the track,
wire in a shift light
depending on what condition the shocks are in, it might be time for new upper strut mounts, strut bearings.
it's up to you how far you want to go. don't forget traction, handling, and brakes will play a big role once the 3.5 is in.
you'll get a great idea of what you can do when the engine is out, and how easy everything is to do.
A big thing would have to be heaers and cams. you dont wanna come back to that again.
A big thing would have to be heaers and cams. you dont wanna come back to that again.
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