The write-up will work for the necessary wires, yes, but you have to remember there will be additional wires for the V-AFC 2.

Don't forget that without the JWT, you'll be stuck with the stock rev limit.

 

damn I forgot about the rev limit. Well idk if I would need the extra rev for now. I guess I'll go with msd and then get the jwt later if I find one for cheaper.

 

Do yourself a favor and don't be like me. The digital unit was far beyond what I needed for a temporary gig. Go with something else if you KNOW you're switching it out later.

 

well Im going to need either the apex or the msd 8969 anyway right? The JWT will possibly come later. I dont know about money. It could be very far in the future, idk. But you and todd did the msd correct?

Btw I think I'm going with setup 8 on your site. I think that's my favorite and doesnt require too much money and work. Did you go with the 00 valve cover? I wanted to go with that because I didnt think there was modification needed to it. Am I wrong?

:edit: I'm looking at this thread in the motor forum about the v-acf II tuning or the JWT ECU. A lot of those guys said to go with the v-acf II which makes me think that the JWT wouldnt be necessary with the v-acf II.

 

I don't believe Todd used the #8969, but I know he used an MSD unit. The #8969 is just nice because it's easy to use and has a cool display, not really much else. Performs the same function as the lesser RPM switches.

Setup 8 won't be nearly as cheap, since you'll have to source a PF throttlebody (isn't cheap in itself). I am using an '00 valve cover, yes, however I'm stubborn and retarded and modifying my 4th gen coil packs rather than buying '00 ones. So far it looks like all I'll have to do is flip them around and drill a new hole in their little mounting tab next to their existing hole.

The V-AFC 2 is better than the JWT because essentially (with some other tricks) you can do everything the JWT can (and more), minus raising the rev limiter. It's also cheaper.

 

Ok Im starting to see the difference between the two now. Well I've found the pf tb's for fairly cheap on car-part.com. What year would I need to look for, just to be sure. I'm a little confused on the valve cover still. What mods need to be done if the 00 cover is used with 00 coil packs, or if the 4th gen cover and all. I see and hear so many damn ways to do this I get confused with everything haha.

:edit: I found a 1997 PF TB for $35 on car-part. It says no tps sensor tho? Also found a q45 TB for $54 will this fit the TB Adapter plate?

 

If you use the '00 cover and '00 coil packs, no modifications are necessary. If you use entirely 4th gen stuff back there, you'll need to grind the coil pack bosses (towers where the screw goes in).

The 1997 would be no good. You want non-e-gas VQ35 PF throttlebodies, which is 01-03 I believe, but I could be wrong. The Q45, however, should work. It isn't the same, and not many people have used it, so you'll have to do your own research on that. The same adapter plate will not work with all throttlebodies, you need one custom-tailored to the throttlebody you'll be using (4th gen, PF, Q45, etc.).

 

Damn. I have no idea who could make a Q45 adapter plate. I'll have to look for the 01-03 pf. I didnt no about the non-e-gas thing.

So using the 00 valve cover and coil packs is cool. How many do I need? Anything change with the front coil packs?

 

Anyone can make you a Q45 adapter plate that is currently making them for the Pathy and 4th gen TB's. It just may be a bit more involved, like, shipping them the throttlebody while they make the plate.

You'll need all 3 rear coil packs if you decide to use them. Front stays the same.

 

The MSD 8969, which I also have, can be wired in using tap connectors. All it needs are power, ground, RPM signal input, and the VI activation signal.

The VAFC-II has a lot more wires than that, but you don't actually have to hook the other ones up until you're ready to tune your car.

Was that my thread?

The VAFC-II is good because it's cheap, it can activate your VI by itself, and it can let you create a tuning program that is customized to your vehicle. The downsides are that it only really controls your air/fuel mixture, has a small and indirect effect (if any) on your timing, takes time to install, and requires you to spend time on a dyno to tune it.

The JWT ECU is a completely new program including new air/fuel and timing maps, as well as an extended rev limiter that will be excellent in combination with your new VI. It has the potential to give you greater power gains than you could ever get with just a VAFC-II. It is also completely plug-and-play, and requires NO wiring work or dyno time whatsoever. On the downside, a JWT ECU obviously costs a lot more and cannot activate your VI, which adds even more to the cost since you will have to purchase an RPM switch in addition.

The real cost of a JWT ECU in your case is ~$600 plus the $115 for the RPM switch, which is a good $250 more than the cost of a VAFC-II plus tuning. Is it worth it? That's your call. In all honesty, you'd have a hard time finding a mod for $250 that would give similar gains.

Personally, since I only ever drive my car on the street, even an untuned DE-K + Y-pipe setup is just about good enough for me and I can't remotely justify the extra cost of a JWT ECU. I also have an RPM switch that I could sell to partially offset the cost of a VAFC-II, so that kind of seals the deal (assuming I can actually get the VAFC-II for what I think I can). But, as I said, that's really just me.

 

They offered to add an activation point for mine for 200$ more

 

I stand corrected.

That doesn't really sound economical, though, considering that it costs so much more than an MSD 8969 and cannot be adjusted...

 

Well its a tough call because there seems to be a few combo's that can be used. I would probably go for the msd rpm switch and then wait to get the JWT. I donyt have access to a dyno and that would be extra money to find and use one. So I think that with the VI with the rpm switch and a new exhaust setup will give me enough gains that I would want for daily driving till I can afford the JWT ECU.

 

Hey, guys, sorry for OT, but what is that site your are talking about where the setups are numbered?Thank you.

 

Tatanko's home page.

 

Thank you!

 

WoW, that is a really great work on that site. Big Props for you ,Tatanko! But i have a question, which TB is the best to go with, when you take setups 6-8, I mean with lower 4th gen IM? Thank you.

 

It's all a matter of preferences. Ideally you'd want the Pathfinder because it's bigger, but it's also going to cost a good bit more money. 4th gen vs. 5th gen is a matter of how you want to deal with things. Do you want to deal with something that may not potentially work to it's fullest (5th gen IACV on the 5th gen TB) or do you want to have to make a block-off plate (5th gen TB w/ no IACV attached) or do you want to make an adapter plate (4th gen TB)? Your choice, really.

 

I want the setup which will work the best failurewise, so I wouldn't have problems in the future...

 

They all seem to be about equally reliable, since they all have their quirks.

 

And Stephenmax makes both adaptor plates for 4th gen IACV and PF TB?

 

I just wanted to add that I cannot recommend Spec clutches to people anymore after my experience with 2 of their stage 2's. The first one had a spring pop out of the disk in less than a year, and now about a year after that one was fixed, I'm having a problem with my new Nissan TO bearing. Either Tilley is doing something wrong in the install, or Specs aren't to be trusted.

 

Yes, I believe he makes both of those. I know for sure he makes the IACV plate, but I'm not 100% positive on the PF TB plate. Why don't you PM him and ask?

 

Will do so, thank you.

 

Stephen makes both plates. 165 for both plates together.

 

Thank you.PM sent.

 

Hey I forgot to as before. Looking on car-part.com for valve covers and coil packs. Do I want Left or Right? I can't remember which one is rear...left or right?

 

Rear is right...

 

Ok thanks. Totally spaced on that one.

 

Hey I know this might not make sense, it's late and Im just looking around the forums tho....is there a cover like the 3.5 or the MEVI has that would fit somewhat over the 00vi swap? I'm sure there isnt since no one has done it. I just like that look and would be cool to have with the 00vi.

:edit: also, any parts from 2000-2003 with work for the swap correct? doenst all have to be the same year for everything?

 

01 AE cover

02 and newer parts (3.5L ) are different than 00-01(3.0L DEK ) ..

 

hey thanks for that quick response. I can't believe I forgot about the 3.5L. I do feel like a dumbass but what about the cover? Any details on being able to install it in the 4th gen for the 00vi swap? Also where is the best place to the cover?

 

For a 5th gen, the P/N's are in the link, and at the bottom of the link, that's the cover on a DEK.

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...24&postcount=3


Here

 

Ok thanks for that link for the hardware. Will I have to do the 5th Gen UIM and LIM swap to make it fit? My guess is that it won't fit correctly with just swapping the 5th Gen UIM.

And South Point Nissan says the sell them but they are not on the website for some reason. Ever dealt with them?

 

If the man you're dealing with is David Burnette (a.k.a. DAVEB on the forums), he is AWESOME.

 

Well I have no idea who to deal with. I just want to know if I do the 00vi swap, which exact things should I be using to fit this cover. Do I need to do the 5th Gen LIM and the UIM or can it be used if I just swap the 5th UIM? My guess was that I would have to do the UIM and the LIM to make the cover fit. But will the cover even fit in my 4th gen?

 

I was once told it fits even with the 4th gen USIM. How, I don't know, that's just what I was told. I'm not honestly sure how it's even secured...the only 2 bolts I see holding it on have to go into little "posts" sticking out of the 5th gen front valve cover that the 4th gen front valve cover doesn't have.

 

In this sub-forum we could give 2 flying ***** if an engine has a cover or not.

 

how does that change if I would want a cover?

 

I think he's just saying you're not necessarily going to find the right answer here...