I was wondering if anyone here has this exact setup w/ of course a y-pipe. I'm looking into going this route for an easy no head-ache power adder. I plan on rebuilding my trans and going w/ either a SPEC or OEM 5th gen clutch. Also, going with raxles because mine are pretty much shot.

-Which clutch wouldbe better for this setup: 00'VI / JWT ECU / Y-Pipe-back Spec stage 1, 2 or OEM 5th gen? Keep in mind this will be a rebuilt trans w/ raxles. I also plan on throwing slicks for the strip.

-How much power will I be pushing with 00'VI / JWT ECU / Y-Pipe-back (possibly a cut-out) ? IS high 13's realistic at the track?

 

drop the JWT ECU and get EU

 

yah i know, but i really dont want to deal with tuning

 

I would do with the OEM 5th gen. I have not heard good things about SPEC.

 

To give you an idea...

A year ago I ran 14.0 on a 2.1 sixty with a 3200 lb raceweight, and put down ~220whp with a JWT ECU and 00VI swap (along with headers, y-pipe, and catback etc... oh and on stock clutch too).

So with a better 60' you could potentially hit 13's...

 

With what kind of tires?

 

He said he plans to use slicks at the track, and he should be able to beat 2.1 easily on slicks, meaning with similar mods/weight the ET should be better.

 

I meant what kind of tires you were on

 

Is the JWT ECU necessary for the 00vi swap? The JWT is a couple hundred $$ correct? I dont have that money.

 

Couple hundred.. Not new..
595 new

 

ok well thanks for that but I need an answer to the question? What's the difference without the JWT?

 

What exactly are you asking? You won't have timing advance, an extended rev limit, or mild A/F changes. What that amounts to is not being able to rev to 7200 to take complete (notice I said complete, as in 100%, that's the keyword) advantage of the manifold, and a tiny bit less power than with it (mostly non-peak power).

 

So if the JWT is so exspensive then why does everyone say their setups cost under 500?

 

Because they aren't including the ECU in that figure. The ECU is definitely not needed, it's just really nice to have. My swap will be doing without an ECU likely for a couple months.

 

Free 00vi

450 for EmangeUltimate

 

Kev, you suck. Go look at 7-speed trannies or something

 

haha how'd you grab a free 00vi? Thanks for the help tatanko. I just wanted to make sure it wasnt neccesary at first at least. Still see good gains without the ecu correct (better gains with it obviously)?

 

The gains WITHOUT the ECU are rediculous. With the ECU it's just that much better.

 

I'm guessing you mean awesome rediculous.

 

I have a SPEC stage 2, feels like stock, grabs like hell. I would reccommend it to anyone.

 

Of course...

 

Hey few questions.
1. Is there a difference between the 2000 and 2001 manifolds?
2. Which setup on your site do you recomend? I dont want to do too much modifying under the hood. Using the plates is fine with me but I guess the other modifying stuff kind of stumps me since I havnt read enough yet.
3. Also how would I go about tuning afterward?

sorry for so many questions guys. But I'm very interested in the swap. I love the idea of more power for not too much money and work. Plus getting my hands in there and all. I appreciate all the help.

 

1. I don't believe there's anything different between years, but emissions matters (anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong).

2. For those that don't want to do a whole lot of custom work themselves, go with the route I'm going (which I took for that very reason). 00VI upper, redrilled 4th gen lower (courtesy of Stephen Max...using A32 fuel setup obviously), 4th gen TB and IACV, EGR block-off.

3. Tuning could be taken care of with an S-AFC/V-AFC, Emanage, SMT-6, etc.

 

Ok:
1. What's the difference for emissions?
2. How are you drilling the 4th gen lower? Not sure how to go about that.
3. How much for the tuning instrument and where to go for that?

would you say setup 5, 6, 7, or 8? I'm trying to figure out the major differences.

 

1. The differences would be in whether or not the VIAS has a plug + the correct other equipment built-in for controlling the swirl valves in the lower manifold, as well as whether the EGR will have a block-off or require a guide tube (although I have a fed-spec manifold and it had neither the tube or block-off when I got it).
2. The 4th gen lower has different ways of being drilled. You can re-use 2 of the stock holes and drill 2 new ones (the most common method) or you can do what Todd (toddemullins) did and weld shut all the holes and drill all new ones. That one is preferable but not reccomend because it's just a he11 of a lot of work. Stephen Max will take care of the first method of drilling if you send him a spare lower manifold (or he can locate one for you). I don't know of a write-up for this off hand, but a picture can be found here if you want to know where and what size to drill them.
3. The V-AFC 2 is what I would reccomend. They can be had used on the .org and ebay for about $240 shipped. With this, you won't need an RPM switch either because you can use the VTEC output to control the VIAS.

 

Ok I would just go with the 2000 because it seems that that is fine for the 4th gen.

Are you having Stephen drill yours? I'm wondering if my father can get the guys at Pratt & Whitney to drill the holes. What the hell is helicoiled?

The rpm switch and this V-AFC 2 confuses me.

 

A 2000 is what will be going on my car.

Yes, Stephen drilled mine. I bought a spare off the .org and had it sent to him before it was shipped to me. Helicoiled is simply re-drilling the hole to a new size (or putting in an insert) with the appropriate screw coil to it for putting a screw in.

What's confusing about switches and V-AFC 2?

 

Ok well I'm not sure if my dads work could do it. How much did he charge you to drill? I guess I havnt been able to read about that part. I dont understand the difference between the rpm switch and the V-AFC 2.

 

Uhh...honestly I forget. It was really, really cheap (like $25 shipped for the service I think? not including shipping TO him).

The RPM switch would be a standalone unit to activate the solenoid. You couldn't use it for anything but that. The V-AFC 2 has a built-in function (meant for VTEC) that you'd use to double as the RPM switch so you could tune and activate the solenoid using the same unit.

 

So you plug the unit in and it will tune and then as long as its plugged in it works as the rpm switch?

I'm looking for this right?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/APEXi...spagenameZWDVW

I know that you're running msd right tatanko?

 

Yes, that's the unit you want. It does not "plug" in though, you have to splice into the ECU wiring (same with RPM switches).

Yes, I'm running the MSD #8969 (digital).

 

So which would you recommend? Is the V-ACF 2 better? or use the msd?

 

Since I won't have the money for a V-AFC 2 until the spring probably (more by choice...going off to college after this year and need to save), the MSD was a good choice for me. If you have the money now, though, get the V-AFC 2, that way you won't have to deal with swapping around wiring and all that jazz later on when you decide you want to tune.

 

Ok well I'm short on money too. College does take away lots of money haha. I have a lot that needs to be done on the car as well so I might have to stick with the MSD. If I cant get the 00vi for a good price maybe I'll do the V-AFC 2. I just wish I could get a good idea of the price this will cost me.

The msd or v-afc 2 is spliced into the ecu wires and set to the specific rpm right?

 

My MSD had only a couple wires to hook up. RPM input, power, ground, and signal output. 4 wires seems easy at first, but it took me several hours to hook up in the Max

 

haha damn. Much more than I would expect. I had a link last night for the splicing but I cant find it now. I guess I forgot to save the link. Do you have the link for attaching that msd. Oh and how'd you tune the max if you just went msd? Are you holding off?

 

I'm holding off on the V-AFC 2 until this spring. I'll tune then.

Part of the reason mine took so long to hook up was because I did a rather complicated way of splicing some wires (particularly for ground and power). I also did a power wire from the cabin to the engine bay as well rather than getting power directly from the battery (for the actual solenoid). So I guess technically I did 5 wires. I also mounted mine in my dash, that took a lot of extra time.

 

I know it might be a big p.i.t.a, but any chance you'd be willing to explain how you spliced yours? I'm interested in your ideas. You always do good work.

 

Actually I can't take credit for the method I used. I actually used a write-up that someone else did, and then applied it to my situation. It's essentially the write-up listed for Summit on my site's 00VI section.

 

Ok cool. Any idea if that writeup works the same with the v-acf 2? The v-acf 2 is better than the JWT as well so I won't need to upgrade that.