3.5 swap- can I use x, x, and x from 3.0?
10-02-2006, 08:51 PM
#1
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3.5 swap- can I use x, x, and x from 3.0?
Well I've been lurking in the shadows here for awhile, maybe even a little afraid to post..................But today, I bought a 3.5 w/44k, I pick it up on thursday 
Questions so far.......
#1 Motor has a cracked left-hand valve cover, can I use the 3.0 vc? I was told no, but it was sitting next to a de-k and it looks identical except plastic?
#2 The 3.5 passenger motor mount is WAY stiffer than even a de-k mount correct?? (there was two 3.5s at this junkyard and two de-k's next to them, and both 3.5's mounts were much much stiffer) Are the two lower mounts on the 5.5 gen stiffer also? What about a 5th gen m/t tranny mount compared to a 5.5 gen a/t tranny mount? (Basically, I'm trying to score the stiffest mounts from the junkyard)
#3 They still have the car in the yard, and they are going to let me snip the coil-pack connectors off, but I'm just going to grab the whole wiring harness anyways, but is there anything else I should try to get from the donor car that I might need?
#4 My main question, I just want to double check that my 4th Gen Fidanza flywheel will bolt up to the 3.5?
#5 I'm fairly certain that this 3.5 is from an a/t, so what is the deal with installing a 5-speed pilot-bushing, and YES I know it doesn't contact the tranny and is only used for clutch alignment.
#6 Just to double check (the sticky is vague about this) I don't need to remove the cams to install the jwt spacers and 3.0 gears correct?
#7 Also, the sticky is vague about relocating the intake cam dowel pin, it appears to be relocated 180* in the picture? I own a degree wheel, and I know a thing or two, so could someone maybe explain a little more technically why the dowel needs to be relocated 180* out and where/how I should accuratly set the intake cam timing
And yes, I've been steadily searching, and haven't had much luck, It seems nothing really gets added to the sticky anymore either, (including peoples names wtf, I want mine in there in a month or two!) So I was just thinking this post might bring about some questions/answers that would be worthy of adding, and there questions I need answered anyways........ THANKS IN ADVANCE, the org is the shiznit.
Questions so far.......
#1 Motor has a cracked left-hand valve cover, can I use the 3.0 vc? I was told no, but it was sitting next to a de-k and it looks identical except plastic?
#2 The 3.5 passenger motor mount is WAY stiffer than even a de-k mount correct?? (there was two 3.5s at this junkyard and two de-k's next to them, and both 3.5's mounts were much much stiffer) Are the two lower mounts on the 5.5 gen stiffer also? What about a 5th gen m/t tranny mount compared to a 5.5 gen a/t tranny mount? (Basically, I'm trying to score the stiffest mounts from the junkyard)
#3 They still have the car in the yard, and they are going to let me snip the coil-pack connectors off, but I'm just going to grab the whole wiring harness anyways, but is there anything else I should try to get from the donor car that I might need?
#4 My main question, I just want to double check that my 4th Gen Fidanza flywheel will bolt up to the 3.5?
#5 I'm fairly certain that this 3.5 is from an a/t, so what is the deal with installing a 5-speed pilot-bushing, and YES I know it doesn't contact the tranny and is only used for clutch alignment.
#6 Just to double check (the sticky is vague about this) I don't need to remove the cams to install the jwt spacers and 3.0 gears correct?
#7 Also, the sticky is vague about relocating the intake cam dowel pin, it appears to be relocated 180* in the picture? I own a degree wheel, and I know a thing or two, so could someone maybe explain a little more technically why the dowel needs to be relocated 180* out and where/how I should accuratly set the intake cam timing
And yes, I've been steadily searching, and haven't had much luck, It seems nothing really gets added to the sticky anymore either, (including peoples names wtf, I want mine in there in a month or two!) So I was just thinking this post might bring about some questions/answers that would be worthy of adding, and there questions I need answered anyways........ THANKS IN ADVANCE, the org is the shiznit.
10-02-2006, 09:04 PM
#2
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That is because the sticky is locked ... and yes it is very out of date.
I am pretty sure you cannot use 3.0 Valve Cover.
I couldn't tell you about the mounts. I was guessing people were using 3.0 mounts.
Wish I could tell you about the flywheel. I am accustomed to people just bolting the 5MT to the 3.5 flywheel.
Save the headache with the cams. Just get cam adapters to snap on the ends and done deal.
I am pretty sure you cannot use 3.0 Valve Cover.
I couldn't tell you about the mounts. I was guessing people were using 3.0 mounts.
Wish I could tell you about the flywheel. I am accustomed to people just bolting the 5MT to the 3.5 flywheel.
Save the headache with the cams. Just get cam adapters to snap on the ends and done deal.
10-03-2006, 03:47 AM
#5
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to further elaborate, they are just pieces I BELIEVE are just snapped on the end of the cams and then you reinstall them ... done deal. No drilling, no dowel pin, no getting scared of screwing something up, AND if you were planning to pay someone else to do it then there is no labor and it is cheaper.
Spacers ($80) + Drilling (Who knows labor ... too much) = $100+
Adaptors = generally $100
Spacers ($80) + Drilling (Who knows labor ... too much) = $100+
Adaptors = generally $100
10-03-2006, 08:48 AM
#7
shift_Puff
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 536
For motor mounts, check Energy suspension and get the front and back, the sides i think are ok for what u need for stiffness, but check if there are inserts available for the side and tranny mount(yes, they are inserts of polyeurathane for the mounts, you have to use the original metal part.)
for the harness, you just need the coil plugs and the injector plugs...but get the whole ting if u want
The flywheel should be fine with a 5th gen clutch set up...don't forget the timing ring on the stock one
For the clutch, it should be a straight forward install...make sure u have the alignement tool
for the harness, you just need the coil plugs and the injector plugs...but get the whole ting if u want
The flywheel should be fine with a 5th gen clutch set up...don't forget the timing ring on the stock one
For the clutch, it should be a straight forward install...make sure u have the alignement tool
10-03-2006, 08:49 AM
#8
#1 Just get an 2004+ valve cover, same as teh 02-03 but much cheaper.
#2: The 3.5 pass. mount was a little stiffer than my 3.0 mount, might be due to age.
#3: No need to get the coil plugs. These are the same as the 3.0 plugs. Just get ALL of the injector plugs.
#4: Yes it will.
#5: Remove the auto busing and install a manual one using a puller from Autozone.
#2: The 3.5 pass. mount was a little stiffer than my 3.0 mount, might be due to age.
#3: No need to get the coil plugs. These are the same as the 3.0 plugs. Just get ALL of the injector plugs.
#4: Yes it will.
#5: Remove the auto busing and install a manual one using a puller from Autozone.
10-03-2006, 08:50 AM
#9
Originally Posted by KRRZ350
#3 They still have the car in the yard, and they are going to let me snip the coil-pack connectors off, but I'm just going to grab the whole wiring harness anyways, but is there anything else I should try to get from the donor car that I might need?
Originally Posted by KRRZ350
#4 My main question, I just want to double check that my 4th Gen Fidanza flywheel will bolt up to the 3.5?
Originally Posted by KRRZ350
#5 I'm fairly certain that this 3.5 is from an a/t, so what is the deal with installing a 5-speed pilot-bushing, and YES I know it doesn't contact the tranny and is only used for clutch alignment.
10-03-2006, 09:13 AM
#11
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sweet guys, yeah I had the injector/coil connecters confused, close call. Yeah all 4 of the mounts currently in my car are absolutely wasted and jammed with kitchen cutting board, so I'm going to try to get some newer junkyard mounts and stuff those also, the es inserts are a waste of money if you ask me, cutting boards and a sledghammer works great 
I'm up in the air about my clutch, my budget is low, so I think I will stick with my 6-puck flea-bay just to see if it is really good for 400hp, lol, flame me all you want for that because I actually like pulling my trannsmission out, I can do it by myself in like 45 minutes tops. I've already spent ALOT on the nitrous, and I am hoping to have enough money left over to run a 2-stage 50+75 shot instead of a straight 100 shot which is what I could do now. I also have to weld in a new core support. I have to pull my tranny apart again once I start the swap because infiniti couldn't get me a stupid o-ring for one of the striker pin thingies So I'm also thinking I should pop in a new 3rd gear, what's the one that blows up alot-3rd on the countershaft? What else is prone to failure besides clutch & 3rd gear?
I'm up in the air about my clutch, my budget is low, so I think I will stick with my 6-puck flea-bay just to see if it is really good for 400hp, lol, flame me all you want for that because I actually like pulling my trannsmission out, I can do it by myself in like 45 minutes tops. I've already spent ALOT on the nitrous, and I am hoping to have enough money left over to run a 2-stage 50+75 shot instead of a straight 100 shot which is what I could do now. I also have to weld in a new core support. I have to pull my tranny apart again once I start the swap because infiniti couldn't get me a stupid o-ring for one of the striker pin thingies So I'm also thinking I should pop in a new 3rd gear, what's the one that blows up alot-3rd on the countershaft? What else is prone to failure besides clutch & 3rd gear?
10-04-2006, 10:09 PM
#16
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I beleive this guy down the street from me does it, he builds some seriously friggin ridiculous motors for people, I'll be dropping off a 3.0 timing cover to him tomorrow so I'll ask
10-04-2006, 11:02 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by diymaximakid
its the easier alternative to drilling and relocating the pins.I have a set if you wanna buy it from me.
10-05-2006, 06:05 AM
#19
Originally Posted by MaxBlack97
where can I get a findanza flywheel and clutch balanced?
They balanced my pressure plate and flywheel assembly and also had my 5-speed manual cyro treated in an attempt to mitigate the infamous 3rd gear decimation. These guys are real top dog engine builders. Take a glance at their site.
10-08-2006, 09:46 PM
#27
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Question #8: My 3.5 didn't come from the salvage yard with an oil-cooler attached......Does anyone have a picture of this oil-cooler and the lines? Does it run off of that block before the oil filter, I don't remember having to disconnect any oil cooler lines when i removed my upper for the rear-main job, so I'm assuming the 3.0 doesn't have an oil cooler. wait, now I'm even more confused, does that mean I would have to switch over that block thingy before the filter from the 3.5 and attach it to the 3.0 oil pan? (crap, that thing was mangled in the 3.5's wreck...)
10-08-2006, 09:52 PM
#28
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Question #9: The sticky is vague about (what a suprise) the rear bank injector plugs.... So do those need to be spliced into the 3.0 harness or should I have removed the large connector off of the 3.5 car and spliced just that 1 connector onto the 3.0 harness? I know it's 6 of one half/dozen of the other, but is it easier/cleaner to splice those wires at the big plug for the rear injectors? better yet, does the large plug for the rear-bank interchange and only the front injectors need splicing? it just looks like so much of a pita, almost begging for upper IM removal, to splice the rear-bank injectors........
10-09-2006, 08:26 AM
#31
yeah i used the 3.5 oil pan along with the 3.5 cps. I kept the oil cooler. you gotta get a hose and connect it from the thermostats to the oil filter area if you want to keep the oil cooler. If not just plug that hole in the back of the motor.
10-09-2006, 12:01 PM
#35
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oh it's straight up dented, and there's a nasty kink in the line (both actually) I'm def. not going to re-use the part behind the filter, although this is the ultimate "budget build", i'd still like to retain the oil cooler, and with zero possibility of oil or coolant leaks, however I will probably use the slightly kinked and bent back line......
btw, I only payed $450 for the motor, and I already scored a free valve cover.
btw, I only payed $450 for the motor, and I already scored a free valve cover.
10-09-2006, 02:11 PM
#36
it looks like it would restrict flow of coolant some.
1 -you might be able to stick a solid piece of metal in there and maybe push out the bent.
2 -If not, I couldnt imagine a machine shop, or any shop with a decent welder charing you a lot to replace that end piece.
3 - Or you could cut that end piece off with a dremel, and get a longer tube and clamp it well.
the 3rd option might be the easiest and quickest solution.
1 -you might be able to stick a solid piece of metal in there and maybe push out the bent.
2 -If not, I couldnt imagine a machine shop, or any shop with a decent welder charing you a lot to replace that end piece.
3 - Or you could cut that end piece off with a dremel, and get a longer tube and clamp it well.
the 3rd option might be the easiest and quickest solution.
10-10-2006, 09:00 AM
#38
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it's just that I'm **** with oil leaks, I took the filter off last night and it is def. a little bent where the filter gasket sits. Thanks for the advice/opinions though guys, I might just decide to use is, I'll think about it some more once I take the upper pan off tonight.
Question # 10: MDeezy & others who have 4.5 gens- Any pics of your iacv adaptor?
Question # 10: MDeezy & others who have 4.5 gens- Any pics of your iacv adaptor?