got vq30de-k 2day, where do i start on removing 00vi parts?
11-01-2006, 06:46 PM
#41
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
ok I removed the right side rear oovi mounting bracket but on the left side bracket there is a light blue connector attached to it. Will I need to keep the connector and wires or do I pull all that off the bracket ?
included some photos, and all the rusty egr stuff is crap. looked in the egr tube and its full of freaking black goo and complete a total mess. i have a good mind to block off egr and bypass thie whole egr system, what a pile of junk.. pros and cons of not using egr ?
included some photos, and all the rusty egr stuff is crap. looked in the egr tube and its full of freaking black goo and complete a total mess. i have a good mind to block off egr and bypass thie whole egr system, what a pile of junk.. pros and cons of not using egr ?
11-01-2006, 06:47 PM
#42
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
top 3 dont seem to be that long though ? will have another look
11-01-2006, 07:19 PM
#45
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gtr so you are saying to keep that blue harness and all its wiring in one piece ? dont go cutting it all up or breaking it, if i plan to use egr equipment on 4th gen ?
will try.
will try.
11-01-2006, 07:39 PM
#46
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
gtr so you are saying to keep that blue harness and all its wiring in one piece ? dont go cutting it all up or breaking it, if i plan to use egr equipment on 4th gen ?
will try.
will try.
11-02-2006, 12:19 AM
#49
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in photo below, parts i have managed to pull. am i missing anything ? or is this the lot ? im using the 5th gen TB, do i need to cut those connectors of the harness and use though, or do we use the 4th gen connectors ? also need to start searching for california swirl valve removal instructions and egr block off plate idea. what was done to use this setup with sorry egr ?
11-02-2006, 12:24 AM
#50
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
jmeister what do i need to do to remove the egr, i do not want it on the new setup, looks like a big mess to me. fixing to post up more progress photos
11-02-2006, 01:22 AM
#51
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i noticed my tb on the lower section doesnt have that black sensor, or tps sensor or whatever, dont know what its called ?
now on the lower part do we remove this and use a block off plate or do you only use the block off plate if you dont have the iacv adapter plate. man im lost i know, but needed to find out so i can have the egr block off plate and tb block off plate made tommorrow.
what to do ?
11-02-2006, 05:38 AM
#52
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
best place to cut off the tops, looks like some vias wires, then 3 front injector wires
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
gtr so you are saying to keep that blue harness and all its wiring in one piece ? dont go cutting it all up or breaking it, if i plan to use egr equipment on 4th gen ?
will try.
will try.
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
i noticed my tb on the lower section doesnt have that black sensor, or tps sensor or whatever, dont know what its called ?
now on the lower part do we remove this and use a block off plate or do you only use the block off plate if you dont have the iacv adapter plate. man im lost i know, but needed to find out so i can have the egr block off plate and tb block off plate made tommorrow.
what to do ?
11-02-2006, 05:45 AM
#53
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
ok somebody tell me i did this right. i got the fuel rail out and hope to hail i cut the upper and lower injectors (wires or whatever) right. does everything look ok ?
11-02-2006, 01:00 PM
#55
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ok got the lower half of the 5th gen throttle body seperated. those screws on mine were tight as ! broke a cheap chinese screw driver, through it in the trash, then found a better phillips head, and the first screw started to strip, so i stopped.
drove TB up to nissan shop in town, put throttle body in bench vice, using a real screw driver and presto, bottom section is history. (note: 5 screws could be a pain to remove)
interesting set of canals running in lower section of 5th gen tb, so to make block off plate cut out pattern and use jb weld and existing screws and shes good ?
drove TB up to nissan shop in town, put throttle body in bench vice, using a real screw driver and presto, bottom section is history. (note: 5 screws could be a pain to remove)
interesting set of canals running in lower section of 5th gen tb, so to make block off plate cut out pattern and use jb weld and existing screws and shes good ?
11-02-2006, 01:10 PM
#56
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about how thick will the tb block off plate need to be to use original screws ? my best guess is that we dont reuse the (1) long screw but we just need the (4) small ones.
i just tried screwing in the 4 larger TB bolts and noticed some resistence, and looked in there and my 4 small screws were in the way. which made my small brain start working a wee bit, thinking the tb plate would need to be a certain thickness.
11-02-2006, 01:36 PM
#57
when i made mine.. i used a piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet metal.. also instead of using those screws again.. i went to a hardware store and bought some bolts that were the same thread type and size.. acutally mine i bought were a hair shorter so i wasnt really worried about the thickness of the block off plate.. imo hex head bolts would be a lot easier to remove than those screws.. also since you have this thing off.. i would do the same thing for the actuator part of the VIAS that bolts to the upper IM.. you also might want to check and see if your VIAS is working properly by attaching a piece of hose to the VIAS nipple and sucking on to see if the rod moves..
11-02-2006, 02:11 PM
#58
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great info, agreed on bolt versus a lame screw. will have to check on finding more info on the (actuator part of the VIAS) your talking about why not fix it up. the check will have to be done as well.
11-02-2006, 02:27 PM
#59
in the pic you posted from one of your previous posts, (neglect your arrow and circle) i have shown you which nipple you need to check for the VIAS:
underneath that nipple is a rod that should move when you apply vacuum.. if it moves then your VIAS is good.. if not then you have problems..
underneath that nipple is a rod that should move when you apply vacuum.. if it moves then your VIAS is good.. if not then you have problems..
11-02-2006, 07:57 PM
#61
The piece of aluminum I used to block off the bottom of the TB was from a computer case. Its not too thick and I believe I used the same screws but im not positive. I would just cut the block off plate out, and then go to the hardware store and buy the screws of the correct length that works.
Im not using stephenmax's IACV adapter. At the moment, Im not using a IACV at all, I just have the throttle cable adjusted enough so it idles around 800-900rpms. I did make my own adapter, not as nice looking as stephenmax's and it did take a while cutting it but it didnt cost me anything.
Im not using stephenmax's IACV adapter. At the moment, Im not using a IACV at all, I just have the throttle cable adjusted enough so it idles around 800-900rpms. I did make my own adapter, not as nice looking as stephenmax's and it did take a while cutting it but it didnt cost me anything.
11-02-2006, 08:25 PM
#62
yeah luckily enough i have a full machine shop readily available whenever i need it.. i cnc'd mine there and didnt cost me a dime.. its great.. everybody should have their own cnc machine in my books.. those things are awesome..
11-02-2006, 09:33 PM
#63
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Originally Posted by 97Maximus
when i made mine.. i used a piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet metal.. also instead of using those screws again.. i went to a hardware store and bought some bolts that were the same thread type and size.. acutally mine i bought were a hair shorter so i wasnt really worried about the thickness of the block off plate.. imo hex head bolts would be a lot easier to remove than those screws.. also since you have this thing off.. i would do the same thing for the actuator part of the VIAS that bolts to the upper IM.. you also might want to check and see if your VIAS is working properly by attaching a piece of hose to the VIAS nipple and sucking on to see if the rod moves..
11-02-2006, 09:39 PM
#64
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Well I have had to go backwards a bit to keep going forwards on the 00vi swap, as talked about earlier in this thread, the hose nipple for the brake vacuum boost on my upper intake manifold was broken off.
Today I ended up buying another upper intake manifold. I can see first hand what was supposed to be there now. I think I got a real good bargin as well. I got the upper intake manifold, throttle body, and egr tube that runs up the lower part of the UIM neck so to speak for $67 dollars USD/ $100 NZD.
the twins:
Today I ended up buying another upper intake manifold. I can see first hand what was supposed to be there now. I think I got a real good bargin as well. I got the upper intake manifold, throttle body, and egr tube that runs up the lower part of the UIM neck so to speak for $67 dollars USD/ $100 NZD.
the twins:
11-02-2006, 09:52 PM
#65
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-- i acutally feeling a bit frustrated at this point, what the heck do i need to be doing, some issues im having.
1. EGR or NO EGR
2. Throttle Body block off plate: should i have block off plate made and use JB Weld and the 4 screws left over to make it air tight or just block off plate and screws.
3. Prep work - what the heck should I be doing ? in photo above of the twins. Do i need to take a hanger or something and clean out all those hoses, and bracket looking things. I guess just to make sure they are clean.
prep work continued - with upper and lower intake manifold what is used to clean inside of these things ? and what will help scrub them clean getting any build up out ?
it really is a darn shame things cost so much here a small bottle of simple green is 19.99 and i mean something like a 2 ounce bottle.
Anyways i need to get on track and figure some of this out. Someone kick my a$$ in gear! LOL! The good old days when nealoc, dave b, and mike used to laugh and jump on my tail for being lazy and not knowing what to do are gone I guess. dave moved on and neal and mike are 12 second turbo masters !
lol
guess im going to work on those New Zealand swirl valves and remove them ! some progress is better than nothing ! LOL !
1. EGR or NO EGR
2. Throttle Body block off plate: should i have block off plate made and use JB Weld and the 4 screws left over to make it air tight or just block off plate and screws.
3. Prep work - what the heck should I be doing ? in photo above of the twins. Do i need to take a hanger or something and clean out all those hoses, and bracket looking things. I guess just to make sure they are clean.
prep work continued - with upper and lower intake manifold what is used to clean inside of these things ? and what will help scrub them clean getting any build up out ?
it really is a darn shame things cost so much here a small bottle of simple green is 19.99 and i mean something like a 2 ounce bottle.
Anyways i need to get on track and figure some of this out. Someone kick my a$$ in gear! LOL! The good old days when nealoc, dave b, and mike used to laugh and jump on my tail for being lazy and not knowing what to do are gone I guess. dave moved on and neal and mike are 12 second turbo masters !
lol
guess im going to work on those New Zealand swirl valves and remove them ! some progress is better than nothing ! LOL !
11-02-2006, 10:05 PM
#66
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
hey 97Maximus so when we make a throttle body block off plate, do we use the screws along with JB Weld to make sure its air tight ? Would this be the best way ? Or using a simple block off plate with screws tighten enough will do the job ?
11-02-2006, 10:11 PM
#67
im using egr.. but no egr would not hurt it i think.. actually it would probably keep your IM clean longer (after use).. as for cleaning all i did was grab a double sided sponge (one with an abrasive side) and took the TB off then took some brake cleaner and threw in a lil elbow grease.. youre not going to be able to get it completely clean.. but after i get everything situated i plan on using some sea foam to finish it up.. after that it should be good as new..
11-02-2006, 10:38 PM
#69
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Swirl Valves Discussion
Ok thought I would look at the swirl vavles and see if I can figure out how to remove them. Im also wondering why we remove these ? Do 4th Gen owners remove them because we have no way to open and shut them via ecu ?
I was just going to go along with the general theme of removing them like everyone else. Still wonder what they are for and if they help torque or low end torque ?
After looking at them see photo below, I have no idea how to remove them at first glance will need to take a look at some post on how to remove.
In photo is everything marked with arrows taken off ?
In next photo below the butterfly parts have two phillips head screws, seems like each one of those will need to be taken out, but not sure if this whole part will pull out or not after doing that ?
anyone have a link to swirl valve removal with instructions ? will start searching.
edit: found link on the swirl valves and removal
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....58751&t=459900
if you kept the swirl valves could the greddy emanage ultimate control them ?
I was just going to go along with the general theme of removing them like everyone else. Still wonder what they are for and if they help torque or low end torque ?
After looking at them see photo below, I have no idea how to remove them at first glance will need to take a look at some post on how to remove.
In photo is everything marked with arrows taken off ?
In next photo below the butterfly parts have two phillips head screws, seems like each one of those will need to be taken out, but not sure if this whole part will pull out or not after doing that ?
anyone have a link to swirl valve removal with instructions ? will start searching.
edit: found link on the swirl valves and removal
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....58751&t=459900
if you kept the swirl valves could the greddy emanage ultimate control them ?
11-02-2006, 10:45 PM
#70
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Originally Posted by 97Maximus
actually i would like to buy one of those pieces :
11-03-2006, 10:17 AM
#74
Hey Ceaser that's the right link to remove those swirl valves. You might be able to get them off with a philip screw driver but you may end up trying to cut the screw head with a dremel. The rod will slide out after you remove the eclip. You need something small to grab it. I used tweezers. After its removed, simply use jb weld to block the holes where the rod pass through. Also, now is a good time to prep the LIM by possible porting.
Next you really need to decide if your going the EGR or Non EGR route.
Start test fitting the hoses with the nipples on the manifold.
Next you really need to decide if your going the EGR or Non EGR route.
Start test fitting the hoses with the nipples on the manifold.
11-03-2006, 11:26 AM
#75
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
Well I have had to go backwards a bit to keep going forwards on the 00vi swap, as talked about earlier in this thread, the hose nipple for the brake vacuum boost on my upper intake manifold was broken off.
Today I ended up buying another upper intake manifold. I can see first hand what was supposed to be there now. I think I got a real good bargin as well. I got the upper intake manifold, throttle body, and egr tube that runs up the lower part of the UIM neck so to speak for $67 dollars USD/ $100 NZD.
the twins:
Today I ended up buying another upper intake manifold. I can see first hand what was supposed to be there now. I think I got a real good bargin as well. I got the upper intake manifold, throttle body, and egr tube that runs up the lower part of the UIM neck so to speak for $67 dollars USD/ $100 NZD.
the twins:
11-03-2006, 11:28 AM
#76
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
Ok thought I would look at the swirl vavles and see if I can figure out how to remove them. Im also wondering why we remove these ? Do 4th Gen owners remove them because we have no way to open and shut them via ecu ?
I was just going to go along with the general theme of removing them like everyone else. Still wonder what they are for and if they help torque or low end torque ?
After looking at them see photo below, I have no idea how to remove them at first glance will need to take a look at some post on how to remove.
In photo is everything marked with arrows taken off ?
In next photo below the butterfly parts have two phillips head screws, seems like each one of those will need to be taken out, but not sure if this whole part will pull out or not after doing that ?
anyone have a link to swirl valve removal with instructions ? will start searching.
edit: found link on the swirl valves and removal
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....58751&t=459900
if you kept the swirl valves could the greddy emanage ultimate control them ?
I was just going to go along with the general theme of removing them like everyone else. Still wonder what they are for and if they help torque or low end torque ?
After looking at them see photo below, I have no idea how to remove them at first glance will need to take a look at some post on how to remove.
In photo is everything marked with arrows taken off ?
In next photo below the butterfly parts have two phillips head screws, seems like each one of those will need to be taken out, but not sure if this whole part will pull out or not after doing that ?
anyone have a link to swirl valve removal with instructions ? will start searching.
edit: found link on the swirl valves and removal
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....58751&t=459900
if you kept the swirl valves could the greddy emanage ultimate control them ?
http://vqpower.com/gtrmax/00VI/
11-03-2006, 07:43 PM
#77
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Attacking California Swirl Valves
Started on the California / New Zealand Swirl Valves, im still clueless as to how to remove all the crap on the end, so I went after the butterfly screws. Now time to read and see if there is anyway I cant get all the other crap off the side.
Amazingly I had great success check out photos:
cable tie technique
screws exposed
00VI Swap for Dummies ( tool shots ) phillips
Needle Nose
Amazingly I had great success check out photos:
cable tie technique
screws exposed
00VI Swap for Dummies ( tool shots ) phillips
Needle Nose
11-03-2006, 07:47 PM
#79
I think this thread proves that people charge too damn much for 00vi kits. $550 for a full engine? People on the org charge $450 for just the 00vi. Should be more like $250-300. Anyways good luck with your swap and post any advice you have after you are sucessful!
11-03-2006, 07:57 PM
#80
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how the hail does this part come off ? is any of it re-used, i read the other thread but am cluesless ? what am i looking for ? the 10mm nuts are simple i have no idea what to do on the end to remove/ pull out the rods. chainsaw ?