gotcha hex screws it is !! speed those screws in the vias were tight as, and soft as butter. why would they do this ?

 

wow, those screws look like they gave you a hard time. If you used vice grips, you could have clamped the head of the screw and it would have came off easy, thats what I did and it was much easier then messing with a phillips screwdriver. I replaced them with the hex bolts, dont know the size but it should be easy to figure out if you take an old one with you to a hardware store.

When I pulled my VIAS off, I didnt not do anything with that rod or bolt. I removed the four screws and just pulled it off.

 

The VIAS is the black, plastic device that was being held on by the 4 phillips-head machine screws you removed (and sort of mangled 2 of them.....which is pretty common). The white plastic piece you're seeing in the first photo in post #119 is the end of the power valve that goes into the VIAS cup that you'll be doing the JB Weld on. That end of the power valve has an "O"-ring on it which makes a snug fit inside the cup, so you'll only have to pull the VIAS straight off. It's a little tight, but you should be able to do it without tools and only nominal effort. Be careful as there's a small coil spring in there also that you want to make sure you don't lose. It goes into a counterbore in the end of the power valve.
After you have the VIAS separated, the power valve comes out at the other end, held in by a small aluminum end-plate held on by 2 similar-but-smaller phillips head machine screws.

 

They're soft so that if there's a catastrophic misfire, they'll blow off and let the manifold detach to vent the pressure.

 

speed having the blockoff plate made for the UIM and 5th gen TB. in what you said above, is that a basic/general list of hose that I will need to have in order to do the swap ?

 

That's generic. It all depends on what your setup is. But those are the common sizes when you replace or reroute the hoses. Make sure you use a fuel line style hose when replacing the fuel hose. There's different types of hoses which are speced for different purposes.

 

if im not using egr will that cut down on the amount of hose I will need to buy going into this ? dang thats a lot of hose ! 16 feet of it !

Just how much of the hoses in the car can be re-used for the swap without having to buy so much ? Or is there no way around this ?

Im going to hit a few places and check on prices. This should be fun as I dont really know the correct terms for the hoses. ROFL !

Will ask for fuel hose, some hose for vacuum lines, and on the 6ft of hose, guess that is like heater hose or something we use for aftermarket intakes or something? i do know its not garden hose at least.

Also hoping stuff like 5/16", 3/16" are universal hose sizes, already had to convert feet to meters for NZ.

 

Well I don't know if you need 16 ft. Best to have more than less. But anyone will tell you that its not fun removing the hoses and people just end up cutting them b/c there so old. This means buying new hoses. In your case your going to need the 5/16" hose for fuel at a minimum. There's no way around that.

You could possible reuse alot of the hoses from the DEK. And since your not using the EGR or the 5th gen IACV, I say your in good shape.

 

I know you will be able to reuse the Brake Booster hose as it still reaches with some reshaping of the hose to fit. You can reuse the VC vent hose to UIM if you like/if its still in good condition. You may also use the fuel rail vacuum lines with already attached tee's(i went that route).

I cant think of any others you can reuse.

 

didnt have much time to mess around with the stuff today. my buddy over here went to drop off my LIM to have the holes left from removing the swirl valves welded. said the guy wanted 80 dollars, so thought he would try another place. Still no sign of JB Weld around here either ?

Since I live in a small rural town, I had a tough time finding hex screws of all things. On the broken UIM I replaced those soft screws with (6 x 16) hex screws, tighten up with a 10mm socket and the fit is nice.



Hex Screws in Place


Thought I would spend afternoon removing the (4) soft screws on my good UIM. And replacing them with (4) more hex screws. Turned out these are stuck on harder and the screws softer than the other ones I was able to remove.

So dont know what to do about that other than wait and let someone with some better tools and skills tackle that battle, but during the project I removed the TB and low and behold this intake manifold has an egr block off plate ! Where as the first Upper Intake Manifold had an EGR setup.




Questions:

As for as the block off plate, would it be better to cut the rod part off for some weight reduction or keep it and use the bracket end to bolt into the engine somewhere ?


As for as the Vias, im still at a loss, when replacing with the hex screws i got today , i continued to try and pull the VIAS box off (on broken UIM) and the rod seems to be hooked on something. Just how much resistance is felt when pulling the VIAS box off ?

a. none
b. a little
c. a lot, give it a good tug!


Thats about it today.

 

dont cut off the bracket.. from what everyone says is it helps support the back of the upper and take off some of the strain of the bolts that hold the lower to the upper..
if i remember right.. i believe it has a little resistance.. but im not totally sure..

 

note taken on egr block off. what about this VIAS ordeal im having. The rod must be going into the cup (see photo)


again im pulling on this pretty hard and the VIAS box will not pull off ? any explanations? When i turn the the little 90 degree metal piece the rod turns. I might just leave it alone. if i pull any harder something has to break ?

 

I see what your saying. I never got that rod off too where the cup is. Mine was functional. So to prevent that cup from breaking off I just put a dab of jb weld at the bottom of the cup. I don't think it did much but I didn't want to break it to refix it. It makes no sense.

 

bought some 5/16" fuel hose today. Will I be okay using hose that is not for fuel injected vehicles ? Curious as to why its the only hose they stock at the automotive stores ? Anyone else buy the same sorta not for fuel injected fuel hose before ? Maybe it just doesnt last as long or something, no idea, other than I have the receipt and will get a refund if I cant use this for the 00VI swap project.

 

FI runs at a much higher PSI than carbed is why they have the different hoses. Is it stranded or very thick? Not sure what to tell you on that.
You get those FSMs btw?

 

A fuel hose has to deal with the pressure and also the type of material going through it. For instance and I may be wrong. I'm using a heater hose for a portion of my pcv setup. It seems like there's oil on the hose. I have wiped it off sereral times and even checked all my clamps.

I believe a heater hose will allow volitile gasses and even fuel to perhaps seep through the hose. I don't have this problem with all my other hoses b/c there rated for fuel use.

 

for most of my hoses.. i am using fuel line and transmission oil line hoses.. as long as its stranded it should be good

 

photos of non-fuel injected 5/16" fuel hose

photo 1:


photo 2:

 

YOUR GOOD. I believe that hose is this product.

http://www.gates.com/europe/brochure...cation_id=2958

Go ahead and use it.

 

I bought that and got all the way home and just used it. I have it from my FPR to my fuel rail

-matt

 

DONT USE THAT HOSE!
its only made to withstand about 12-15 psi, for carborated cars. Get fuel injection hose, our fuel pressure ranges from 34ish to 44ish stock.... DONT chance it.

 

sutter took the hose back, much more knowledgable guy working today, said exactly what you said, dont use this hose. Got my $16.50 back for freaking "3 feet", found 2 feet of the right hose but its $40.00. Need a night to sleep on it, prices are nuts here.

 

$40 USD? LOL, I paid $8

 

well actually its $40.00 dollars NZD or $26.60 USD for the proper Gates 5/16" fuel injected hose. Holding 2 feet of rubber hose and thinking about $40 dollars for it made me want to puke ! lol! Man, for 40 dollars I should get a 100 ft roll !

 

It better not cost me that much for hoses haha.

 

Ditto on JSutter's post, and Ceasar, you'll get lots of nights of peaceful sleep not having to worry if your hi-pressure fuel injection system will burst that other fuel line at WOT and 80 MPH, spray fuel all over your engine compartment, and your car erupt into a fireball of flames with you trying to scramble out with your hair ablaze!!.
Although the auto companies have teams of lawyers advising their engineers to be super cautious when it comes to items that might land them in court (or worse yet, with a civil class action), there are well-thought-out reasons for most of the things they do.

 

curt: while true that post (#146) is funny ! could picture one of my videos, im racing down the track and roast my maxima, appearing as some sort of fireball blasting down the 1/4 mile track. scary !

--

since im going into the oovi swap real soon. what would make the most sense for photos?

when using all the 5th gen parts, replacing coils, rear valve cover, lower intake manifold and then upper. it would seem everyone could get through that fine.

Maybe photos and write up should consist mainly of hosing diagrams (example: what each one is and where it goes once you start connecting them to the UIM). Is there any know list of each hose and what parts they attach too when going through the whole process available ?

Since I dont know whats involved at this time, maybe it could be broken down in sides (front, rear, left and right) in a facing the engine bay position or facing the firewall after you open the hood.

1. Hoses Location in engine bay and what they are
Front - how many hoses, what are they and where they go
Rear - how many hoses, what are they and where they go
Left - how many hoses, what are they and where they go
Side - how many hoses, what are they and where they go

2. Vias Setup what connections do we use and how to setup rpm switch
Then VIAS setup and possible wiring for rpm switch or engine management systems.

3. Wiring Up 5th gen fuel rail injector wires to 4th gen harness (wires)



Maybe some of you that have done the swap would have a better idea. But again, since im fixing to do the swap soon. If I had some insight and a sort of photo storyboard to go by, I would probably know where to snap the photos.

Just an idea. and hey anything to help out the maxima community, then pat could add this stuff to his website.

 

fuel hose update:

Was able to pull some strings and get the Gates 5/16" x 24" fuel injected fuel hose for $15 versus the retail of $40. Not much hose here but maybe will be enough to get by on.

Brand: Gates
Product# 27091
Length: 24 inches or 2 ft.

 

VIAS check video added to post #1 in thread:

* Fake VIAS Check Video Click Link Below
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7T5yk3TDfcg

 

Ceasar, good simple video. Also thanks for posting that pic of the fuel hose. I've been trying to figure out what size hose I needed for the FPR.

Pat has the information for wiring the rpm switch on his site. Pretty simple I think. 4 wires, ground, power, singal out, and tach. Would like to make sure which wire is which on the MSD switch tho....

 

That test still doesn't prove whether or not the actuator is turning the power "rod".

 

Going to burst the bubble by saying that regardless of if the rod has movement the cup can still be broken. You are going to have to remove the VIAS from the UIM and check the cup physically. My rod moved freely but when I removed the VIAS my cup was very wobble and on the verge of coming clear of the mechanism. Open up...

 

ROFL ! wait a second ! this was the VIAS check instructions, i must have missed something aye ? lol !

I have turned the arm on the solenoid and watched the white thing inside the UIM move as I turn it. I have also did the ( fake VIAS check ?) and solenoid moves with the sucking. And on my UIM i have tried removing VIAS box by removing all 4 screws and pulling the crap out of it, and couldnt get it off ? Pulling any harder would make one think something is going to break ?

This whole VIAS thing has me puzzled but then again I removed my first throttle body last week, lol !

?????????

VIAS 3 - Ceasar 0

edit: ok, if im having trouble pulling the VIAS box off with all 4 screws removed, and from the looks of it, the rod that goes into the VIAS box is attached or hung on something inside. What on earth should I do ? LOL ! I read in other post that once the screws were removed the darn thing comes off or falls off? On mine it does not wont to pull off ?

 

IMO i would think that by doing the combination of the two tests of sucking on the VIAS nipple and the control arm moving, and then pushing the rod and watching the power valve shaft rotate.. would prove that the VIAS is working properly.. correct me i am wrong but by sucking on the VIAS nipple proves the cup in tact??

 

i have no idea ? vias has be beat on this one, when i have more time, i will experiment with the one with the broken vaccum boost thingy?

got lower intake manifold back today will take photos later and post them up

 

You couldn't get the VIAS off either of the 00VIs you got?

 

Ok started moving forward with the swap, wanted to post up some photos and questions.

First with the fuel rail, in photos below, is there any reason why I couldnt use the 4th gen fuel pressure regulator on the 5th gen fuel rail ? It bolts up fine ? Is this a no-no and if so why ? I think the only reason we tried to see if it fits is for hose fitting, not sure ?




(above) 4th gen fuel pressure regulator connected to 5th gen fuel rail.

 

Second, have some questions on IACV, i believe we understand how to mount it, but what hose goes into the nipple of the iacv adapter plate ?

Also my IACV adapter plate does not mount up to the IACV because of the round part that has the black arrow pointing to it? is that piece supposed to be removed ? what do you do here ?


also in photo above what is that black round thing that has a place for a phillips head screw driver to turn it ?

 

Splicing and wiring



unsure where to splice or wire these four wires into ? is this the correct procedure ?

 

I have the block off plate on the UIM, in the photo below, as best i know that is where most of the EGR equipment is.

Does someone have an egr diagram on how to remove it completely? Need help here, since im blocking it off, wanted to completely remove all the egr system. So looking for instructions on how to do this ?

Also what needs to be done to the headers were the egr runs into it ?