SPiG

iTrader: (7)

I have never tried mess with the swirl valves, but if it is anything like the MEVI valves then you just slide the rods right out once you get the valves and the actuator off. From there you just need to seal the holes that the rod created to seperate the runners. JB Weld would probably work for this or some other type of sealant.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

thanks spig, not sure aye ? someone mentioned dremel tool, do we saw through this stuff or something? lol !

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

how to remove swirl control valve on 01 de-k ?
credit: speed racer

initial link: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....58751&t=459900

I had some trouble trying to grasp speed racers "How To" and finally figured it out. thanks speed !

Speed Racers tool list:


These were the tools used:

1. Philip Screw Driver
2. Dremel with cutting accessory
3. Needle Nose pliers
4. Hair Tweezers
5. 10mm socket

How I got them off:

In this thread you will have seen heaps of photos especially the one with all the white arrows where I kept asking how does this come off ?

In the photo below you will have 3-4 of these forget at the moment while im on the pc. I was able to snap them off/out with a flat head screw driver.



another close up


Once I snapped those out, I was still at a loss as to how to pull the rods out. I read over his write up several times and realized there were two screws I was missing somewhere. On my lower IM I still had the gaskets on, and once I pulled them up, I found the screw, and these are the ones that would be very easy to strip.

taking speeds advice I rigged up the best setup i could find around here. Took a phillips head screw driver and some vice grip pliers, and then using my body weight pushed down as hard as I could and turned and it worked. Any tom foolery here and this screw will strip. In photo below I have the black gasket pulled back, which exposed the screw. Easy to understand if you get these parts from a wrecker gaskets , etc would could be missing.



After removing (1) screw from each side, the rod simply slides out !



Ceasar 1 -- Swirl Valves 0

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Photos of those Pesky California Swirl Valves - NZ swirl valves removed. Next step with these are the JB Weld, JB stick or simply weld all the open holes. Will discuss that tommorow with my friend who is going to install all these goodies.

Finished Photo



In photo below does anyone know if i need to keep this piece ? Im guessing I will just JB weld up the holes to my LIM and not use any of the swirl valve stuff i took off. Any help would be great on that!

do i need this photo below

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

hey I just pm'd you. Great to see you got it off. Now you need to jb weld those holes. Like I said if you can do it I would suggest porting that LIM to remove any other impurities. Since you have two LIM. You can definitely use one as a test. Of course I would look into some equipment that would help with porting.

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

Get rid of that piece. Remove the two bolts. Weight Reduction FTW!!

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

At this point im wondering if I have actually gotten everything prepped and ready to be installed tommorrow. But with what I have found out JB Weld and JB Quick takes time to dry, so might get some things done but not sure ?

Now that I have the swirl valves out. moving on to another set of projects and questions.

1. If I chose to keep the egr in working order. What egr stuff will I need to keep off the 5th gen ? Is it just the egr guide tube that runs up the from underneath the UIM, or do I need more parts off the engine than that ?

2. The VIAS : will search for the threads on checking the VIAS and VIAS fix.

Any additional information you can post my way will be great. LINKS, TIPS, write ups.

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

Did you get the fuel fitting for the rail? If not you may want to get it from here
www.sx7r.com. Some people still use the fuel dampener but its not necessary to have.

If you decide to keep the EGR system the only thing you need to modify is the nipple directly on top of the UIM where the TB is screwed in. Its too small for the hose coming from he EVAP canister purge volume control valve. See EC-11 in FSM. You will need to replace it with a 3/8" elbow. Your going to need at least 5' of 5/16" fuel hose, 5' of 3/16" hose (vacuum lines), 6' of 3/8" hose. There's also a nipple on the side of the manifold right next where the TB bolts. You do not need that nipple. You can put a rubber cap to close it or cut it up and jb weld.

Use the "U" shape coolant hose from the rear of the 4th gen IM to loop (by Pass) the coolant line going into your TB.

Use this thread for 5th gen IACV. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=463248&page=2

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

You only need the 5th gen EGR guide Tube. When you bolt it on the VQ30DE don't tighten the bolts right away. Make sure the guide tube is plumb. That means you might need to bang it side to side to ensure it sits properly with the UIM. Once you know it fits right than go ahead and tighten the bolts.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

yes got all the extras, fittings, iacv adapter plate its all right here. on the VIAS check, can we do any sort of check to see if its still working with it out of the engine bay ? if so what to do ?

again not sure how much i can get done tommorrow packing all this stuff up and going over to his shop. any links to oovi swap installations - procedures ?

97Maximus

iTrader: (18)

caesar.. i told you how to check it before.. but anyways.. here a link with all the preventative maintenance for it.. anything and everything you need to know about this swap should be on there...
Tatanko's Website

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

I would get another 4' hose to run straight instead of using a tee, dont want any coolant leaking later on.


Im going to elaborate by saying, make sure the EGR guide tube is completely bolted in and ready to have the manifold installed. Once you are ready to install the manifold do a quick eye measurement and take a long screw driver and sorta bend the tube in the angle you need it to be. I still dont see why this needs to be done, but the manifold will not sit perfectly on the tube without some adjustment.

Here you can check on how to fix the VIAS, http://www.cardomain.com/ride/763858/5

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

sorry dude, getting lost in all these post

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Tantanko's site gives a run down of what should be looked at before the install. For the VIAS you can put a hose on one of the nipples on the VIAS (the one that moves air when you move the arm) and suck on the hose. If the arm moves then your VIAS works fine.

Speed racer, I havnt seen those size hoses mentioned anywhere....I've seen 3/8, 1/2, and one other I can't actually remember at this point.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

do the 4th gen plugs connect into the 5th gen throttle body or do i need to cut those off the 5th gen.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

I believe they fit

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

run your 4th gen TPS just to be on the safe side..

Here is how to readjust it:
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/tps.html

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Im using the 4th TPS with my Pathy Tb too

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

The 5/16" hose is for rerouting your fuel lines.
3/16" will be used for the fpr to the manifold and for any related EGR that needs a vacuum.
3/8" is used for the PCV, brake booster hose, and also for some of the EGR components.

1/2" is not used. You can use a 5/8" from the mid pipe to the right valve cover.
I wrote all my information down when I did the install and it worked like a charm.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Ok. Did you use all 5th gen parts or what?

Curt

iTrader: (27)

ABSOLUTELY WRONG! A good example of "a little bit of knowledge is a damgerous thing." And even more so if it's a very little bit of knowledge (with no actual experience).
If the sucking produces motion, it only confirms that the vacuum actuator device actually works. The VIAS cup itself may actually be hanging on by a thread and on its last legs, and the only way you can determine that is by opening it up. And as a good preventative measure, even if there's no sign of looseness between the cup and the shaft, is to do the JB Weld fix (or a better one if anybody's actually come up with one yet). If that cup actually comes completely loose from the shaft, I don't know that there's any effective fix for it, and you may end up having to get yourself another complete UIM (as finding a VIAS alone is sort of like the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow: much talked about, but nobidy I know has yet found a single cent they can spend.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

So how was I wrong? He already said he was doing the JB Weld....he asked if he could see if the VIAS actually worked....I was told by you all to use the hose and see if the arm moved...

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

The only non 5th gen part of my setup was the rear valve cover.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Ok I'm using almost all 4th gen parts so I'm using different hoses.

jmeister

iTrader: (12)

Those plugs will fit the DEK TB. Why worry about having to adjust it. That was what my problem was when I swapped. Took me a while to figure out the problem was the TPS.

matty

iTrader: (54)

What was your car doing when your TPS was outa wack ??

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

More than likely searching for RPM, or having a hard time even staying alive.

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

Are you talking about the 5th gen TPS or 4th gen?

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

Took the lower intake manifold to have the small holes welded closed, also having a block off plate made for the 5th Gen TB, and the Upper IM. Decided to try the setup without the egr. Will see how it goes.

I never got around to checking the VIAS by opening it up. But let me ask another question. Can you tell anything about the condition of the Vias by turning the small rotating piece towards the firewall so to speak.

Photo 1: In normal position, see white runners inside


Photo 2: As I slowly turn it towards the firewall ( if it was installed in the car) notice position change.



Photo 3: Fully turned



What im wondering is if this example tells me anything about if the VIAS is not broken in the UIM. Or is there more to it than simply turning that part to see if anything changes ?

When turning its not loose, and not super tight, feels just right ? lol!
Also you hear some sort of air like noise ?

thoughts , opinions ?

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

will just have to delete this post here if I have already asked, but in having the block off plate made for the 5th gen TB, when looking at the tb, i see how the block off plate would work, but there are canals inside the tb.

Anyone know what im talking about ? Are those parts supposed to be filled up as well, or do we not worry about that, just make block off plate and leave those canal areas alone ?

Cdg2125

iTrader: (7)

To test the VIAS you should take it apart and do the JB Weld fix. I was also told about the hose thing but apparently not? Idk. I think you mean the coolant passages for the tb?

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

00VI Swap for Dummies image added to Post #1 in this thread ! check it out !


- well i have asked around about JB Weld, no one knows what it is. But finally asked another friend and he believes we have it in town, so going to check out the shop tommorrow and see if I can pick up some.

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

don't do anything to those cavities. Just make the Tb Block off plate and some new screws, preferable hex type. You preferable need JB qwick for the VIAS. That's the liquid form of JB Weld stick. There's a difference.

Curt

iTrader: (27)

DO NOT...repeat....DO NOT use the JB Weld quick stuff. In doing my original research on this procedure several of the guys who did use the quick stuff complained that it didn't hold up. That could have been because they were in too much of a hurry and didn't give it enought time to cure, or they didn't do a very good job, or because the chemical formulation is different than the original stuff and not as strong. Better safe than sorry.

Although I don't recommend it as a way of being sure that the VIAS cup situation is going to be as bullet-proof as possible, you can always reach a couple of fingers from one hand up into one of the intake runners and grasp one of the butterflies; with the other hand wiggle the little control arm on the outside end of the shaft that holds the VIAS cup. If there's any free play at all, you've got a problem getting ready to happen. Once there's some play, the damage only accelerates. The goal is to never even have it start to get loose in the first place, and the best way to achieve that is to do the JB Weld fix (or something better if it's been devised yet). With all of the work you're putting into this project, it would be a shame to not spent the hour or so it would take to do this, and then have it fail a year after you get it all installed.

Something else I always did with the 6-or-so 00VI setups I sold last year was to completely disassemble/remove the power valve and use carb cleaner to get it and those passageways as clean as possible. One of the UIM's I worked on had such gunk build-up inside there that the power valve could barely rotate. And IIRC, StephenMax also has a similar problem with his own 00VI.
Take the time to do it right and better to be safe than later on sorry.

jmeister

iTrader: (12)

I had removed the TPS on 5th gen TB (for whatever reason I don't know) but at the time didn't realize the spring inside had to be set a certain way when I put it back on. It started & idled like a dream but when I rev'd it would hit 3k & would kick right back down & almost die then peg at 3k again and repeat. This was spring '05 before more than a handful had done the swap & info was VERY limited and I had no idea wtf I was doing.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

got a photo ?

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

started taking off the VIAS (not sure if that is the right term) to do the jb weld fix. Two of the screws came off with a lots of force, but on the third and fourth they started striping. I kept at it until I finally got all 4 of them off. Will replace those.

As I started pulled the section off, it still looks connected to the runner or whatever the white thing is inside the IM. In photo below do I have to unscrew this part as well to disconnect it from the rod( white thing inside the IM) ?

edit photo: better photo description in post #119

JeEvE

iTrader: (10)

Once you took the screws out, which you already have, it should come right off. You shouldnt have to do anything with that rod.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

is there some resistance in pulling it off ? its pulling on that rod as well ?

better photos:


in image one above you can see the rod in between, marked with an arrow. I checked it again, and when i pull that vias part the rod moves as well , and then stops like around half an inch of pulling it out, maybe less and its stuck.

In New Zealand the 00VI comes on 2000-2003 model 5th gens, not sure if anything is different or what ?

So you dont have to look into the square box vias part and unhook the rod from that piece ? Your saying once the 4 screws are off the vias just comes right off?


In photo above you can see where I have removed all 4 screws, but no luck on removing the VIAS. Not willing to rip it off right now , dont wont to break anything ? suggestings. IN photo above you dont have to unscrew that part with the red arrow pointing to it ?

Screws after taking them off the VIAS


did someone mention replacing these with hex bolts ? is there a size to ask for or do you just try to match them up the best you can ? im sure someome answered this in this thread but cannot freaking find it ? lol

Thought I would get some experience working on the #2 UIM, but after dealing with those soft screws, man im scared.

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

I said the hex screws. I took the old one's to home depot and then used a metric screw measuring thing they have to check the size. Once size is verified I got the hex screws.