ok guys.. i am still in the process of trying to fix my 00VI swap.. well i tore it down last night to fix one of my nipples for vacuum on the manifold.. and i figured i would adjust the TPS also.. well that was a mistake.. i put it all back together and it was idling really high.. so i knew i had it set wrong.. well i took it back off set it to were i had it before and it sits there and revs to 2100 down to 1700 and back up again consistently at a set rythm.. if i remember right that just means the tps needs to be set correctly.. well i have slowly adjusted it back and forth to get it to the correct position.. and cant get it to act right now.. i dont know what to do.. oh yeah i could not get it to read the right resistance on the voltmeter as it should.. i dont know if this is because im using a 5th gen TB with a 4th gen TPS.. what should i do next??

 

did you test for resistance or voltage.

Setting the TPS sensor is very tedious. If you have any aligator clips, and test the prongs for voltage with a multimeter, that should make setting the TPS easier. have some one push the accelerator all the way down (100% open) and set TPS for 4V.

I did mine the harder way of adjusting the tps, jump in the car floor it, see my voltage is 3.88, go back to the TPS sensor turn it just a little bit more. . . and so forth. have the VAFC2 display the voltage made it a lot easier.

 

is it better if the TPS is off a lil at idle or at WOT? cuz my 100% throttle is at 3.8ish, and 0% throttle its at .4 (readout via VAFC2)

 

its best to get it right on 4V. 3.8 sounds a little low to me, I know that sensor is very sensitive to the slightest movement, but I'd definately spend the time to get 4v +/- .05

 

you say test the voltage?? i thought you tested the resistance? which one.. and yeah like goldtooth said.. is it better to test at WOT or idle? and it has to be warmed up though right?

 

I believe the haynes states test for resistance but you can test voltage as well. Plus doing it by voltage is easier.

set TPS at WOT to 4v.

dont forget Goldtooth the VAFCII (when initially installing the unit) you have to let the VAFCII learn full and closed throttle, then you'll get a proper reading.

and there is a pretty signifigant difference if your set the TPS on a cold car than a warm, the car need to be warmed up then turn off the car and set it to 4V at WOT.

 

It's been installed(wired up) for about 3 months now. Is there a difference/ Would I feel a difference when comparing 100% throttle at 3.8v at WOT to 100% at 4v at WOT?

 

the car is designed to operate with the TPS at 4V for WOT, but you've have it running at 3.8 for a couple months now no problem, so you might not want to worry about it.

 

hey guys.. i have the tps moved all the way to one side.. and finally acheived a reading of 563 ohms at idle.. and ~3800 at WOT.. well i hooked everything back up and it still does the same thing.. after it warms up.. it will rev to 2K drop to 1.7K and fluxuate consistently between the two rpms repeatedly at a steady pace.. i dont know what else to do.. i think my tps is bad.. also mdeezy.. im guessing to test it in volts you would have to have the key on?? anyways let me know what you guys think..

 

I suggest you get another one. I had to replace mine when i did my 00vi. it just wouldnt read properly. I also had the problem that if you set it properly at idle it would be off at WOT, and if i set it properly at WOT it would be off at idle. so i just set it to idle. Because I try setting it properly at WOT, but since the idle was off, when i drove and the car would shift, it would hold the gears for long time, then bang into the next gear (mostly in 1st and 2nd gear). At first it was pretty cool cuz it actually downshifts instantly when you accelerate (something all us autos wish to have), but only bad thing was the extra hard shift. so i just said F'it and tuned it to the Idle. It dosnt really bother me how i have it, and my Vafc2 reads 0 to 100% throttle perfectly, so i guess its properly done. i might try and mess with it a lil bit so that the tranny dosnt shift soo soon and hold the ****s slightly longer.

 

what was yours doing (symptoms) before you replaced it? out of curiosity

 

well, we just couldnt get it to stay at the proper measurement at idle. and when i would move TB to WOT it would just go crazy to some random numbers.

 

i dont mean to hack your thread but can i just swap the TPS for another one? I can get my hands on a used one. Is it as simple as out with the old, in with the new? No adjusting or whatever?

 

No you have to adjust it. You can replace it with another TPS but it needs to be adjusted just as any would be.

 

Can't you just pull the throttle cable in the engine bay? Why would you need to run around to the press the gas pedal, unless there is a sensor at the gas pedal too?

 

cuz most ppl have their VAFC2 in the cabin... and to adjust the TPS you need to go back by the throttle body.....

 

alright guys.. i seriously am depressed right now.. i got a new tps and put it on and attempted to adjust it.. well i set it were i thought it should be and then started it up to warm up the tps.. so i could set it correctly.. and it does the same exact thing as my old one.. i cant get the correct setting unless i turn it all the way to one side.. that and at idle it just sits there and jumps from 1700-2100 at a consistent rate.. no matter where i have it set at.. i dont know what else to do.. and i dont know how to fix or what to check.. this shouldnt matter since before i messed with it the car was running correctly.. but i am using a 5th gen TB with a 4th gen TPS

 

I am right there with you buddy. my car is still doing the exact same thing your car was doing. I put a different TPS sensor on and it still bouces between 2.5k - 3k.

I checked my MAF and that is working fine, I have my TPS sensor set to the proper spec and it still it bounces like this. Its damn frustrating.

I drove my car anyway and car drives fine, but no one wants to be stuck in traffic with their car idling high and revving up and down.

an idea that hit me that I need to look into, is see if the part number for the TPS sensor is different between years/cars. I am using the pathfinder TB with my 4th gen TPS. If there is a different part number, there might be a difference between the two TPS sensors. It might turn out we need TPS sensors for the year TB we are using. I think this is pretty far fetched but options are wearing thin.

my car idled steady at 1.3k once and didnt bouce but that was for a few minutes only.

I am also going to try swapping another MAF in and see if that changes anything, and swap another IACV and see if that changes anything.

I know how you feel 97Maximus, I miss driving my car too. I drove it around yesterday, and it felt like a beast . . . if only it would idle correctly

 

Well I'm going to use the 2001 PF TB. Your saying that I would need a 2001 TPS?

 

I dont think others have needed to, but with my current situation I am wondering if I need it. I wish I had FAST loaded on my computer at work. Could check the part numbers and see if they are different.

 

Well this happened to me when I did the DEK swap, the rpms were bouncing up and down just like you guys are experiencing. However, I did TPS adjustments also but no help and so I re-installed the 00VI and found that there was a vaccum leak between the IMs and also a leak in the 5th gen TB/IACV area. Sealed it back up and started her up and no more bouncing rpm. So maybe double and tripple check for leaks and good luck.

 

yeah i dont think that the problem is the tps.. because i have the original tps that came with the VI swap.. i put that on there and it does the same thing.. of course i am using a 5th gen TB with a 4th gen TPS.. a little different than what you guys are doing...

 

I'll check again for leaks, I know my TB doesnt have leaks, I tightned it well, used extra thick gaskets, plus RTV to seal it up well.

My pathy TB is unmodified. I did not make a block off plate for the bottom.

I'll take off my IM again and make sure the gasket is sitting properly.

 

I agree that leaks is probably the problem. Tatanko has had no problems with his setup thus far. I think he was using 5th gen and 4th TPS. I gotta make sure everything seals up good when I install mine.

 

when I did my most recent swap I made sure everything went on good and I torqued down to spec a sequential order. Once I got the car started It fired up real nice and held steady at 1k rpm. I am using 5th gen tb with 4th gen tps set to spec. I did/have not tried to mess with it to get idle down to 700ish or anything because I just finished the swap(de-k) but as soon as I get the iacv adapter from stephen and the 4th gen tb adapter I am going to mess with getting the idle down. but for the bouncy idle I have had in the past fixing leaks and tps sensors set to spec fixed my problems

 

Hey Streetz. If the TPS is not set correctly to 4v than the auto will want to shift early? I have it adjusted to 3.8 volts. My shift will be at red line but my VAFC is showing only 6100 rpm max from 1st to 2nd. 2nd to 3rd gear shift in auto is like 5900 or 6000.

 

wait a min, is that a fact? depending on the voltage of the TPS where the redline is set? i want every last rpm before it shifts cuz i have 00VI :P but unfortunately no ECU upgrade yet

 

I'm not even sure if TPS comes into play. I know the auto has a tendency to shift early especially in the D position. From what I been reading, the only way to get full potential is to manually shift at a track, get the shift fast mod, or change your TCM with an aftermarket one.

I'll go the cheap route though b/c these electrical guru's on this forum know there stuff.

I guess I'm going to have to fix my tps though and see if this is fact or fiction in regards to shifting early. I know from swifting through some old threads that the auto TCM uses 3 inputs which are TPS, Speed Sensor, and RPM. So I would think an inaccurate TPS would send a false signal to the TCM.

 

i dont know if it will effect when it shifts. Mine won't stay set to correct ohm and makes the shifts very hard. Can't get anything to make it shift normally. Major PITA. Really want to fix it before the nice weather hits. Trying to find another PF TB is the next step.

 

No, having an off tps will not make the auto change shifts at different rpms. the TCM still takes RPM signal into account. How ever, when i had an uncalibrated TPS my auto would hold each gear for very long, which i LOVED!!! because it also made the down shift alot quicker and instant. like when you come to a slow roll and then accelerate that it stays in higher gear so the car just lags till u press gas harder and then down shifts and moves. well wen the tps was off, this didnt happen, as soon as u accelerated, it down shifted immediately. BUT the 1-2 shift was WAY to harsh, so i just put the tps how it was supposed too.